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OEM/Factory Adding or repairing items that came from, or would have come from the factory. (ex: replacing alternator, won't start, water pump, etc...)

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  #1  
Old 02-08-2010
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windows_vistaie
Default Dana 30 fill plug removal

All that is left for checking my fluid levels is getting that darn plug out of the front diff. It seems to be frozen in place. I've cleaned all the gunk out and sprayed with liquid wrench and still no movement. I went as far as putting my impact wrench on it and no go. I just bought a longer breaker bar and a gator socket and still no go. Any good ideas out there?
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Old 02-08-2010
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windows_xp_2003ie
Default Re: Dana 30 fill plug removal

i just put a breaker bar in mine and turned it out so ???? remember rightie tightie leftie loosie
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Old 02-09-2010
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windows_vistaie
Default Re: Dana 30 fill plug removal

Well I had to take off the diff cover. Cleaned it up and then took my trusty wacker 2000 plus hammer and hit the fill plug twice, then put it in my vice and took my socket and breaker bar and turned it out. It looked like someone in the past had use either loctite or black sealant. I cleaned the threads up and got a new gasket installed. Put it back together, filled her up to correct level and replaced the plug. No leaks. I took it for a test So, everything is
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Old 02-09-2010
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macossafari
Default Re: Dana 30 fill plug removal

Glad to hear it. Those pipe threads can get tight. Of course locktite doesn't help.
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Old 02-11-2010
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windows_98_nt_2000ie
Default Re: Dana 30 fill plug removal

Is there any really good way to break loctite? I have been turned on to Kroil (which by the way might be made by the Gods) and that's taken care of most rusted bolts. Does it work the same for sealants an threads lockers?
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Old 02-12-2010
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windows_xp_2003ie
Default Re: Dana 30 fill plug removal

The best way I know of to undo locktight or retaining compound is to heat it with a torch. Unless it is red or green locktight, however, you should not have to do this to release it.
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