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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Hayesville NC
    Posts
    353
    Chats
    619

    Default Re: Control arm question

    the answer to that question is application specific.
    Daily driver low lift: poly on both ends
    Daily driver tall lift: poly is ok but recommend johnny joint at frame or new rubber joint arms

    Off road use often: Definitely use JJ or rubber joints to absorb bind and flex for longest lasting product. Our poly bushings do tend to last a few years though. The relief of the johnny joint or the rubber creates less stress on the weak dana 30 parts when in severe articulation.

    Limit straps are always a good idea for really flexy rigs. You dont want your shocks topping out or your control arms smashing up your brackets.

    Hope this helps
    Andy
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  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Moore, SC
    Posts
    2,050
    Chats
    414

    Default Re: Control arm question

    It does help, a great deal.

    If I have to pull this axle to cut and repair the rust damage on the shock bracket, I am going to replace the arms, re-gear, and add a selectable locker while it's out.

    Then wheel, break, repeat......but not so much if I do this right once.
    2003 WJ Daily Adventuremobile
    1985 MF 250 Tractor (Fixed!!!)
    1999 XJ (in pieces in the driveway)
    1991 Explorer (Cracked Heads)(Stock, for now )
    1989 F150 (In progress-Blown freeze plugs)
    2003 Explorer 1.5" body lift, F150 towhooks, rare OEM skidplates, 265/70-16 Cooper Discoverer AT3's
    1979 K20, (in pieces in the yard) 350, NP465, NP205, Custom Rust Patches
    1970 C30 (tires tore open by bushhog)

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