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  1. #31
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    UPDATE: Just loaded it up and left Friday for Mt. Shasta. Upon leaving the temp slowly crawled upward to the white line just before red. It took about 2 hours, and I was fully loaded for camping & heading into a 30-35mph head wind.

    As soon as it hit the line I decided to turn around. Managed to get back home going with the wind, but temp did not go down until I lowered speed significantly- down to 50-55 or so. This doesn't do well for traveling on I-5 where speeds range from 65-70 in many areas.

    I understand the fact the engine was working harder on the way up, but IMHO shouldn't the temp on any rig with a non-modded engine pretty much stay stable? I've never had a vehicle- car or truck follow this pattern... Any ideas? I'd love to get this fixed and salvage a vacation!
    ACOS,5.5 in Rubi lift,Steering Stabilizer,Bushwacker Flares,Rhino Lining - Lower panels/Sliders/F&R Bumpers/Flares/Roof,AIRAID air intake, throttle body spacer, RunCool Hood Louvers, 'Glass Packs, 4:56 gears, 35" BFG MTZ II, Mickey Thompson Rims,Dana 44 rear / Dana 30 frnt, SYE, removable Steering wheel, Upgr. Rad, Hi flo water pump, Hi output alt, Warn Front & Rear Bumpers, Hi-Top Roof Rack, Custom Sliders, XRC-8 Winch, Hellas, more.

  2. #32
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Quote Originally Posted by d0nt_h8 View Post
    UPDATE: Just loaded it up and left Friday for Mt. Shasta. Upon leaving the temp slowly crawled upward to the white line just before red. It took about 2 hours, and I was fully loaded for camping & heading into a 30-35mph head wind.

    As soon as it hit the line I decided to turn around. Managed to get back home going with the wind, but temp did not go down until I lowered speed significantly- down to 50-55 or so. This doesn't do well for traveling on I-5 where speeds range from 65-70 in many areas.

    I understand the fact the engine was working harder on the way up, but IMHO shouldn't the temp on any rig with a non-modded engine pretty much stay stable? I've never had a vehicle- car or truck follow this pattern... Any ideas? I'd love to get this fixed and salvage a vacation!
    Man I wish I knew. I have the same problem with mine. I was hoping that putting some 35's on it would help lower the rpms and stop the engine from generating so much extra heat. Mine runs about midway between 210 and the next line at 70 mph, or 2800 rpm. It was suggested to me that I remove the autotranmission from the radiator. Just run it through the aux coolers (I have two) but before I would try that I would have to have a transmission fluid temp gauge so I could monitor the temp).

  3. #33
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Well I had some over heating excitement this morning.

    This was my first morning drive in since adding the cowl induction scoop and regapping the spark plugs to .050. Jeep was running great and the temp was below the magical (just below) 210. I was patting myself on the back as i twas already 80 degrees out. Then about 1/2 through my 45 to 50 minute commute to work I noticed the temp was above 210. Then midway to the next hash mark, then ON the next hash mark. No steam, no smell of coolant, WTF!

    As I would speed up from a red light the temp would drop a little. Sitting at the light it would increase to the hash mark. It wasn't going past the hash mark, so I continued to work. About 3 miles from the office I decided to pull into the NAPA parking lot and see what the deal was. I thought it was strange that I didn't feel any loss of power that I would normally when the coolant gets that hot.

    Well the aftermarket electric fan wasn't making a good connection so it wasn't running. Basically the mechanical fan was doing all the cooling work. I pressed the connector halves together and the fan came back on. I have tie wraps on it, because it never made very good connection. You'd think for 100 it would be a better connector. There isn't anything wrong with the old one, so I think I'll put it back on. I just replaced it trying to fix the overheating problem. I'll get the non-OEM as a spare.

    So I'm thinking either the outside temp of 80, or the big hole I have in the hood was why I didn't notice a loss of power. I guess the engine bay could be much cooler but the coolant temp still hot. At least the heat isn't staying trapped under the hood now.

  4. #34
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    ...out of ideas I just took the rig to a shop. They're telling me a weak hose was about to burst, and that I have an issue in the main seal.

    ..call me crazy, but I'm thinking neither of those directly affect the overheating issue... which tells me the mech. couldn't locate the issue either..

    Damn. Would a dealer know any more about this issue? I'm having no luck here.
    ACOS,5.5 in Rubi lift,Steering Stabilizer,Bushwacker Flares,Rhino Lining - Lower panels/Sliders/F&R Bumpers/Flares/Roof,AIRAID air intake, throttle body spacer, RunCool Hood Louvers, 'Glass Packs, 4:56 gears, 35" BFG MTZ II, Mickey Thompson Rims,Dana 44 rear / Dana 30 frnt, SYE, removable Steering wheel, Upgr. Rad, Hi flo water pump, Hi output alt, Warn Front & Rear Bumpers, Hi-Top Roof Rack, Custom Sliders, XRC-8 Winch, Hellas, more.

  5. #35
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Quote Originally Posted by d0nt_h8 View Post
    ...out of ideas I just took the rig to a shop. They're telling me a weak hose was about to burst, and that I have an issue in the main seal.

    ..call me crazy, but I'm thinking neither of those directly affect the overheating issue... which tells me the mech. couldn't locate the issue either..

    Damn. Would a dealer know any more about this issue? I'm having no luck here.
    This is what drives me insane about the "experts". It seems all the simple stuff I can do and when it gets to the point I'm willing to pay someone, I can't find anyone that knows more about my vehicle than I do.

    You might suggest they do a test for exhaust gases in the coolant.

  6. #36
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Mudderoy View Post
    This is what drives me insane about the "experts". It seems all the simple stuff I can do and when it gets to the point I'm willing to pay someone, I can't find anyone that knows more about my vehicle than I do.

    You might suggest they do a test for exhaust gases in the coolant.

    ...you've got that EXACTLY correct Mudd.. and I certainly don't call myself an 'expert' by any stretch...

    I feel like with over 2 million XJs on the road there should have been a clear fix to this issue since clearly I'm not the only one who has had their rig be more than a little schizophrenic in the Temp regulation..

    Oh well, back to the drawing board.. I'll put up more info as it develops...
    ACOS,5.5 in Rubi lift,Steering Stabilizer,Bushwacker Flares,Rhino Lining - Lower panels/Sliders/F&R Bumpers/Flares/Roof,AIRAID air intake, throttle body spacer, RunCool Hood Louvers, 'Glass Packs, 4:56 gears, 35" BFG MTZ II, Mickey Thompson Rims,Dana 44 rear / Dana 30 frnt, SYE, removable Steering wheel, Upgr. Rad, Hi flo water pump, Hi output alt, Warn Front & Rear Bumpers, Hi-Top Roof Rack, Custom Sliders, XRC-8 Winch, Hellas, more.

  7. #37
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    My XJ is the hardest rig I have ever had to cool. That is, after I put in the 4.3 and changed over to the long skinny radiator. Prior to that, you could run it all day in hot weather with the air on towing a heavy load up hill. I am still convinced it is the design of that radiator that is the problem. I am tempted to redo the front cross member and put in a more square radiator and see what happens. I really can't believe what it took before I could run cool.
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  8. #38
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Quote Originally Posted by 4.3LXJ View Post
    My XJ is the hardest rig I have ever had to cool. That is, after I put in the 4.3 and changed over to the long skinny radiator. Prior to that, you could run it all day in hot weather with the air on towing a heavy load up hill. I am still convinced it is the design of that radiator that is the problem. I am tempted to redo the front cross member and put in a more square radiator and see what happens. I really can't believe what it took before I could run cool.
    No that is it, I'm convinced. The long skinny radiator is not conductive to being cooled by little fans. Frankly I think that one mechanical and one electric that only comes on sometime is a really bad design. I want to replace both with two 2950 rpm fans, that both come on at the same time.

    Since I've been working on this problem for awhile I've noticed something. Once the coolant temp heats up above 210, it never comes back down to 210 unless you turn the engine off. This tells me that my heat creep problem at highway speeds is one problem, but failure to return to the normal operating temp is another.

    I have a less than 2 year old all metal 3 core radiator so I have one of two problems. I don't have enough air flow over the fins of the radiator, or I have too many heat generating things in the air flow path.

    I don't think my transmission is generating more heat, as in more slipping. If it is then other people have the same problem. I need to be able to remove more heat!

    I'd like to try an aluminum 3 core radiator, but I'd be pissed if I spent the money and had the same problem.

    I'm torn.

    Dual electric fans.
    Remove transmission cooling from the radiator
    3 core aluminum radiator

    The hole in the hood and the cowl induction scoop have helped the low speed temps. Even with the coolant past 210 the engine is still very responsive. I would see a noticeable loss of performance prior. I'm going to put a few more holes in the hood to allow more air flow.

    I guess I could remove the transmission from the radiator, see if it makes a difference then get a transmission fluid temp gauge if it does. I noticed this past winter that on the very cold mornings the transmission felt different until it warmed up. So I'm thinking that with the 3 tranmission coolers I have it might be a bit much. Of course I could set it up so I could switch between the radiator and aux coolers or just aux coolers. Hmmmmm.....

  9. #39
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    ...ok, diagnostic done... nothing in the coolant, but there is a flow issue. I'm next going to a radiator shop to have the next test done. Anyone know how often water pumps go bad? It's a hi-flow, and a few years old.

    I'm wondering if it's in the channels in the block. Whats the best way to clear those?
    ACOS,5.5 in Rubi lift,Steering Stabilizer,Bushwacker Flares,Rhino Lining - Lower panels/Sliders/F&R Bumpers/Flares/Roof,AIRAID air intake, throttle body spacer, RunCool Hood Louvers, 'Glass Packs, 4:56 gears, 35" BFG MTZ II, Mickey Thompson Rims,Dana 44 rear / Dana 30 frnt, SYE, removable Steering wheel, Upgr. Rad, Hi flo water pump, Hi output alt, Warn Front & Rear Bumpers, Hi-Top Roof Rack, Custom Sliders, XRC-8 Winch, Hellas, more.

  10. #40
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Quote Originally Posted by d0nt_h8 View Post
    ...ok, diagnostic done... nothing in the coolant, but there is a flow issue. I'm next going to a radiator shop to have the next test done. Anyone know how often water pumps go bad? It's a hi-flow, and a few years old.

    I'm wondering if it's in the channels in the block. Whats the best way to clear those?
    Seems like I was replacing mine once every two years, sometimes annually.

    Those were for the autopart cheapies, 40 water pumps. I have a Flow Kooler in mine now.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Mudderoy View Post
    Seems like I was replacing mine once every two years, sometimes annually.

    Those were for the autopart cheapies, 40 water pumps. I have a Flow Kooler in mine now.
    What's up with that. I have run water pumps forever without any problems until the bearings went out with some astronomical number of miles on them.
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  12. #42
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Quote Originally Posted by 4.3LXJ View Post
    What's up with that. I have run water pumps forever without any problems until the bearings went out with some astronomical number of miles on them.
    I don't know. I was surprised as well. The first one that failed was the factory water pump. The plastic fins disappeared, the engine over heated. The shop said the head was warped so 985 later it was back together and on the road.

    Then two months later the radiator failed. That was when it was 3 years old!

  13. #43
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Plastic, that says it all
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  14. #44
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Ok, here's a which would you choose scenario-

    I've got two choices here. In regard to overheating I'm golden as long as I stay in the city and don't hit the fwy for long, lol.. but I got this rig to trail & tow.. not to drive the city streets.. (and btw, those clear tails are history, lol)

    Anyway, I'm debating on replacing the entire cooling system, as well as new water pump, etc.. I'm looking at at least a couple of grand... and that's just to stop the heating.... it doesn't answer the real question of whether the rig will actually successfully tow at fwy speeds over passes, etc.. that plus the seals etc. are going to cost me in the area of 4k

    OR,

    Since I'm running into a heavy cost with those repairs anyway, on top of the fact that I'm looking to add towing power... I'm considering adding a GOLEN stroker engine, new cooling unit, injectors, and all of the other stuff that goes with it. I'm looking at a 10k investment for this option after all is said and done. The Golen unit alone after the extras needed for it to run the way it needs to will be like 8k... chunky to say the least...

    However this is really the last piece of my rig which needs to be done.. after this there's almost nothing left to replace, lol.. so I'd be good basically forever except for the normal wear & tear. Essentially a new vehicle.

    Thoughts?







    Quote Originally Posted by Mudderoy View Post
    Seems like I was replacing mine once every two years, sometimes annually.

    Those were for the autopart cheapies, 40 water pumps. I have a Flow Kooler in mine now.
    ACOS,5.5 in Rubi lift,Steering Stabilizer,Bushwacker Flares,Rhino Lining - Lower panels/Sliders/F&R Bumpers/Flares/Roof,AIRAID air intake, throttle body spacer, RunCool Hood Louvers, 'Glass Packs, 4:56 gears, 35" BFG MTZ II, Mickey Thompson Rims,Dana 44 rear / Dana 30 frnt, SYE, removable Steering wheel, Upgr. Rad, Hi flo water pump, Hi output alt, Warn Front & Rear Bumpers, Hi-Top Roof Rack, Custom Sliders, XRC-8 Winch, Hellas, more.

  15. #45
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    Default Re: The overheating thread

    Quote Originally Posted by d0nt_h8 View Post
    Ok, here's a which would you choose scenario-

    I've got two choices here. In regard to overheating I'm golden as long as I stay in the city and don't hit the fwy for long, lol.. but I got this rig to trail & tow.. not to drive the city streets.. (and btw, those clear tails are history, lol)

    Anyway, I'm debating on replacing the entire cooling system, as well as new water pump, etc.. I'm looking at at least a couple of grand... and that's just to stop the heating.... it doesn't answer the real question of whether the rig will actually successfully tow at fwy speeds over passes, etc.. that plus the seals etc. are going to cost me in the area of 4k

    OR,

    Since I'm running into a heavy cost with those repairs anyway, on top of the fact that I'm looking to add towing power... I'm considering adding a GOLEN stroker engine, new cooling unit, injectors, and all of the other stuff that goes with it. I'm looking at a 10k investment for this option after all is said and done. The Golen unit alone after the extras needed for it to run the way it needs to will be like 8k... chunky to say the least...

    However this is really the last piece of my rig which needs to be done.. after this there's almost nothing left to replace, lol.. so I'd be good basically forever except for the normal wear & tear. Essentially a new vehicle.

    Thoughts?
    I think you have the same problem I do. Runs cool on the streets, hot on the highway. I ran an experiment on the freeway today. A/C on 70 mph 2800 rpm coolant temp well past 210. A/C off 70 mph 2800 rpm efan bypass switch on. Almost got back down to just a hair below the 210, not quite but close.

    The electric OEM fan is 530 CFM. I've ordered a 12" 1050 CFM electric fan.
    I have read that you need a 2950 CFM electric fan to replace the mechanical fan, if you do towing. I ordered a Taurus 2500/4500 CFM fan from eBay today.

    I suspect that my running hot problem will be cured by the 1050 CFM, but certainly should be taken care of with the addition of the Ford Taurus fan.

    Now this is after I have replaced everything with bigger (3 core), or more high flow. Everything but the heater core, and I've bypassed that before just to see if it made any difference.

    Oh and I have a big a hole in my hood with a cowl induction scoop. (I'm considering mounting an electric fan in the hole to suck out the hot air.)

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