Lifted steering problems

[demonworks]

I have been messing with this for two weeks now and have gotten to the point that I'm about ready to shoot the jeep. I have a home done 5.5" lift consisting of the following : lift springs, control arm drop brackets and rustys quick disconnect sway bar links and a skyjacker track bar drop bracket. The steering has all been replaced in the last week ( tie rod ends, drag link, tie rod tube etc.) Ball joints are tight with no play. The wheel bearings (hub units) are tight with no play. The steering box seems to be tight and I can adjust it from my normal crappy handling to feeling like its going to flip over. So I think it is still good. The only thing I have not changed is the track bar , which is tight and has no exess play. I do not have a drop pitman arm. Are the angles of my track bar and drag link wrong? They seem to be parrell like there supposed to be or am I looking at it wrond. The toe in/out is set to zero like it said to do on gojeep's site and the castor is set to specs ( using gojeep). Its not death wobble and Its not really bump steer, the thing just floats all over the place. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[demonworks]

I tried to upload a photo but either the site or my computer is not letting me. There is a photo of the steering in my album on here, if anyone can link it to this post I would be very thankfull.

[4.3LXJ]

Bias ply tires? Anyway the biggest culprit for this is too little negative castor which is caused by lifting. The drop brackets help quite a bit, but I bet if you check your castor you need more of it. Also, did you get an alignment yet after lifting. It is mandatory since the toe in changes.

[demonworks]

I'm running radial tires. I did the alignment myself because no shop around my area will do an alignment on lifted vehicles. The alignment is set at zero toe in as recomended by the gojeep site. The problem is I drove the jeep 40 or so miles one way and it handled alright then the steering just seemed to get floaty, you always have to correct the wheel to stay in the road. Should I have a drop pitman arm? the axle is centered to within 1/8" by my measurements so I wouldnt think the track bar is wrong. as for camber ... is there any diffrence in the measuremnets for the correct angle now that I have drop brackets? The arms are in nearly the stock position after the lift.

[4.3LXJ]

Camber is something you just have to check. Alignment should be 1/8" toe in. Drop pitman arm would be for any bump steer problems you might have.

[drew91xj]

im sure its not this simple but is your stabilizer shot, alowing acces floating in the steering being it isn't dampend? maybe you able to feel the cruves in the road causing it to float everywhere.

[demonworks]

stabilizer is a year old but is still solid and tight. I have been checking all the measurements and have come to the conclusion that my camber is way outta wack. I need to get longer/adjustable lower control arms because my axle is rotated forward to much causing it to make the tires go floaty chasing all over the place. I read a few hundred articles from every jeep forum I could find and found that if the axle is rotated to far forward that it will cause wandering. Found it on naxja if I remember right. I'm supposed to be somewhere in the 4.5-7.5 degree range (varies on who you ask) and mine is setting at 9 degrees was at 10.5 degrees but I shimmed it to the max today and it did help but I cant adjust anymore. More research led to the correct measurments of the lower control arms and mine are about an inch to short for the lift setup I have.

[4.3LXJ]

If your lower control arms are short your castor is too positive and give you the symptoms you discribe.