What did you do to your Jeep today?

**bluedragon436** · 3 Weeks Ago

Still waiting to get her a place to be able to get back to working on her again... I'd be so much happier right now if I could at least do small stuff to her... like being able to pull the diff cover off and take a look at the front differential and see if I can see anything easily/clearly visible causing this random ass popping... I'm hoping to get the MR-S sold soon so I can get her in and get this stuff taken care of and be able to enjoy driving her again, and hopefully even get her out and play some this year finally!!

**denverd1** · 3 Weeks Ago

Originally Posted by bluedragon436

Still waiting to get her a place to be able to get back to working on her again... I'd be so much happier right now if I could at least do small stuff to her... like being able to pull the diff cover off and take a look at the front differential and see if I can see anything easily/clearly visible causing this random ass popping... I'm hoping to get the MR-S sold soon so I can get her in and get this stuff taken care of and be able to enjoy driving her again, and hopefully even get her out and play some this year finally!!

pop that diff cover off!

**denverd1** · 3 Weeks Ago

Originally Posted by bluedragon436

Still waiting to get her a place to be able to get back to working on her again... I'd be so much happier right now if I could at least do small stuff to her... like being able to pull the diff cover off and take a look at the front differential and see if I can see anything easily/clearly visible causing this random ass popping... I'm hoping to get the MR-S sold soon so I can get her in and get this stuff taken care of and be able to enjoy driving her again, and hopefully even get her out and play some this year finally!!

Steve had some luck flipping the cam gears around. still, sounds like somethings dragging on one side. ever messed with the unit bearings? perhaps one isn't spinning like it should....

**downsy** · 2 Weeks Ago

Pulled the interior hunting for rust, I also power washed the carpet while I had it out and replaced the weather strip on both front doors and the lift gate.

Found a few spots and a few small holes. Busted the rust out with a wire wheel and a flapper wheel. I tried to spot weld the holes but even on the lowest amperage i could run i kept blowing the holes out bigger

So i hosed everything down with rustoleum top and bottom and used a tube of silicone and the change i found under the carpets to make my 1 dollar and 1 cent patch.

Certainly not professional haha.

So ill reassemble tomorrow after the carpets dry out and i give the sealant and paint time to cure.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

**denverd1** · 2 Weeks Ago

Originally Posted by downsy

Pulled the interior hunting for rust, I also power washed the carpet while I had it out and replaced the weather strip on both front doors and the lift gate.

Found a few spots and a few small holes. Busted the rust out with a wire wheel and a flapper wheel. I tried to spot weld the holes but even on the lowest amperage i could run i kept blowing the holes out bigger

So i hosed everything down with rustoleum top and bottom and used a tube of silicone and the change i found under the carpets to make my 1 dollar and 1 cent patch.

Certainly not professional haha.

So ill reassemble tomorrow after the carpets dry out and i give the sealant and paint time to cure.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Looks good!

On those small rust spots, you can weld a spot then let it cool for a couple seconds then hit it again with another spot. Letting it cool like that may let it hold better instead of blowing through. Had to do that when I welded to unibody up front for bumper tie ins.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

**downsy** · 2 Weeks Ago

Yeah i tried that. As soon as the arc started it would open the holes up. Im guessing theres simply not enough metal left in those spots. Guess I could have attempted to braze it.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

**Retired Firefighter** · 2 Weeks Ago

I went to start my XJ today. 2 days of sitting outside in -28 deg weather. It groaned, but wouldn't spin over fast enough to start. I saw there is a block heater on it, so I plugged it in. As I went around the front, I noticed yellow/green coolant drips in the snow across the front of the jeep (before I plugged it in). Oh Oh! I bet the radiator froze and cracked. It made it through last winter fine, but it wasn't quite this cold.

So, now the question is: What is a good replacement radiator and where to get it?

**4.3LXJ** · 2 Weeks Ago

Uh Oh. I used to use a 100W light bulb and a good blanket over the hood and fenders

**denverd1** · 2 Weeks Ago

Originally Posted by Retired Firefighter

I went to start my XJ today. 2 days of sitting outside in -28 deg weather. It groaned, but wouldn't spin over fast enough to start. I saw there is a block heater on it, so I plugged it in. As I went around the front, I noticed yellow/green coolant drips in the snow across the front of the jeep (before I plugged it in). Oh Oh! I bet the radiator froze and cracked. It made it through last winter fine, but it wasn't quite this cold.

So, now the question is: What is a good replacement radiator and where to get it?

hope it's just the rad!

**Retired Firefighter** · 2 Weeks Ago

After a couple hours of being plugged in, I found that the block heater does work. I turned the key and it fired right up. I let it warm up and took it for a short drive. There was minimal coolant leaking, but some. Tomorrow is supposed to up to about 30 deg, so I plan on investigating some. Hopefully it isn't as bad as I suspect.

**downsy** · 2 Weeks Ago

Eeek. Theres no reason a regular OEM type replacment cant work if everything else is working right.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

**Retired Firefighter** · 1 Week Ago

I was able to look a little closer at the coolant leak on my XJ. It looks like it's the radiator, not a hose or connection.

I read all 12 pages of the "Lets talk about radiators" thread and came away with the fact for the most part, the OEM style radiator will work just fine for most applications.

Now the question is: which one to get? Do I get the cheapo for

54 or

63 for a SPECTRA PREMIUM CU1193 or CSF 3251 for

64? All from rock auto. All are aluminum with plastic tanks. All are 1 row. The cheapo doesn't give specs, the spectra CU1193 is 1" thick and the CSF 3251 is 1 1/4 thick. All the ones I've looked at come with the tranny oil cooler. I have a manual. Maybe it doesn't matter, but I would think that without the oil cooler, it would cool better?

I could get the cheapo, treat it like a throw away part and plan on replacing it or spend a little more and maybe have the same luck. Who knows with quality these days?