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  1. #1
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    Default Rear ended help!

    Actually occured years ago..but now its preventing me from installing a trailer hitch so I need to fix it. Plus I'm sick of having to slam the liftgate shut in order for it to stay shut.

    I dont think the damage is too horrible, I think the frame rails are okay, its just the rear crossmember thats pushed in.

    The bumper has two mounts, each with four bolts. Only the outside 2 on each mount are flush with the rail flange. There is a gap for the other two so the bolts cant be installed. The bumper and mounts are new (well, junkyard new..undamaged anyway)

    I have a porta power, come-along, and some trees. I suppose pulling it out with a chain on a tree, using a come along, might work? Has anyone done that? I'm planning on trying it tomorrow.

    Although the sheet metal where the liftgate post is seems pretty "crimped"..its hard for me to imagine that can be pulled out with a come along..and if I cant pull that out then Im not sure how the cross member can be pulled out. Maybe Im thinking too fast and this is a very slow process?





    Last edited by beatupjeep; 02-17-2015 at 08:46 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    I'd say you should be good using a come along and a tree.. Repaired similar damage to a friends old car back in the day the same way.. wasn't perfect, but it def looked far better then it did to start with, which was similar to the damage you have right now...
    FORMER GREEN XJ CLUB MEMBER
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    Quote Originally Posted by bluedragon436 View Post
    I'd say you should be good using a come along and a tree.. Repaired similar damage to a friends old car back in the day the same way.. wasn't perfect, but it def looked far better then it did to start with, which was similar to the damage you have right now...
    Thanks good to hear!! BTW do you remember how thick the sheet metal you were fixing was? On the jeep its basically all 1/8" in the area of damage. Or maybe more like 3/32. But definitely thicker than the body panels. Is that what you were able to straighten? How did you keep the car from moving? I think even on wheel chocks it would slide across the pavement wouldnt it?

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    since you have a porta power, I suggest you drop the tank and start pushing. A little judicious hammer work will probably be needed too. Take it slow and easy and you can push it back
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    Quote Originally Posted by 4.3LXJ View Post
    since you have a porta power, I suggest you drop the tank and start pushing. A little judicious hammer work will probably be needed too. Take it slow and easy and you can push it back
    I'd really like to do that..but I didnt see anywhere to put the porta power..is there a cross member between the rails under the fuel tank or somtin?

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    There is a substantial one that the shocks mount to
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    Quote Originally Posted by 4.3LXJ View Post
    There is a substantial one that the shocks mount to
    excellent!! that may be the ticket then. is dropping the fuel tank a pain? can I do it without disconnecting ancient fuel lines? I have all the usual tools and what not, but Ive never done an XJ fuel tank

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    I suppose this is the cross member you are referring too? Looks promising


  9. #9
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    yes, should work fine
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    progress so far

    8000 lb come a long
    some chain, bolts, angle iron and hooks
    worst wheel chocks of all time (hollow thin plastic)

    it seems to be doing some good...but its also pulling the jeep across the driveway..

    I think the trick here may be putting enough power into each tug that most of it goes into pulling the metal and there isnt enough to slide the tires fast

    so Im going to try:

    -instead of just parking brake, I'll do something to engage the normal brakes..perhaps even with the engine running so they are power engaged (that or maybe I can get away with engine off and using residual vacuum for one pump)
    -better wheel chocks
    -lower tire pressure
    -if I cant get the normal brakes engaged, then Ill put it in 4wd ultra low in the lowest gear and at least that will provide some braking on the front wheels




    Last edited by beatupjeep; 02-18-2015 at 03:49 PM.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    okay I tried using the porta power to depress the main brake pedal and that worked much better..wheels dont roll anymore during the pull, suspension just seems to squat I think.

    now I can try to get down to business..

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    welp I worked on it for a couple hours..

    I definitely moved it out..probably around 1/4 inch? Maybe 3/8"? Which is significant considering its probably only pushed in 1".

    But I think I broke my 9.99 horrible fate come along..I'll have to take it apart to see whats the matter.

    Im considering trying the fuel tank drop/porta power method now.

    Im also a bit concerned about using the porta power on the brake pedal. It works for sure, but its hard to tell how much force you are putting out. I doubt the brake system is designed for a 1000 lb pedal press and the porta power can pump that out pretty easily. So its definitely something you want to do with caution.

    What would really hit the spot is one of those little mini-vice things the pros use to grab sheet metal wherever they want to pull, and it has a ring or whatever on it. That would make this much more precise and put the force right where its needed too..I may try to make one or buy one.

    I took before and after pics but the weatherstripping was in place in both and it makes it hard to see where the metal changed. I'll take some more pics once I really make some major progress though.

    EDIT: I wonder if I could use a pair of big vice grips as the sheet metal grabber? And hook/weld a chain or ring onto it?
    Last edited by beatupjeep; 02-18-2015 at 05:57 PM.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    You can weld a stud on and use a slide hammer on it. Grind it off later
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    Quote Originally Posted by 4.3LXJ View Post
    You can weld a stud on and use a slide hammer on it. Grind it off later
    good idea

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Rear ended help!

    Quote Originally Posted by 4.3LXJ View Post
    You can weld a stud on and use a slide hammer on it. Grind it off later
    HF has a 99 stud welder + slide hammer combo that has good reviews.

    But since I'm trying to cheap out on this I will probably just weld some short bar stock to it using TIG/MIG.

    Also, I wonder if the standard studs used for body panels are strong enough for the thicker cross member stuff and a come along?

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