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Thread: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    So My 2001 Jeep Xj has had the back left or drivers back wheel...the bearing has been replace 3 times over the last 100K. The last time the mechanic replaced it for free for me. The last time I talked with the guy he said if it goes bad again then it's probably a rear replacement issue.

    So I talked to my mechanic recently since I don't work in the summer and I have time to fix it....about it and he said that maybe the rearr end housing got bent at some point and the bearing is being pushed in a goofy position and that is what causes the grinding I'm hearing. Even after I get a new bearing it will start grinding within a week. It grinds, at a low level, I hear it but I can live with it. And I can make it last but it would be nice not to hear the noise. He said to fix it, that maybe I would need to get a used rear axle housing and guts. IT could be 200 to 600 for a used one not including labor.

    Any thoughts on this.

    Should I just live with it and just replace the bearing once in a while?
    Or go fix it?

    My son will be driving it in a few years.

    Could it just be the shaft and not the housing casing?

    Just wondering.

    Thanks.

    Also I think my manifold has a leak or crack, sounds rumbly, is this hard to fix. Can I just wrap some tape around it?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    Hard to say on the bearing issue... I wish there was a way to know for sure before you drop that much money on it. I suppose that we can hope that that fixes it and that the cost of the housing will pay for itself soon enough as opposed to buying bearings all the time. Have you tried a different bearing? I bought Timken rear bearings from RockAuto.com for cheap and they're supposed to be pretty darn good.

    As for the manifold, are you talking intake or exhaust? A crack on either usually requires replacement. You can probably pick up a good cheap one from the junk yard if need be.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    Well is it possible the actual rear shaft on that one side was bent in some way and not the housing, to damage the housing I would have needed to hit it pretty hard and I have not done so, ever!. Maybe the shaft is just bad? Maybe.

    Exhaust manifold, IT has 207K on it, Actually it has that pretty cool rumbling truck sound at the moment but I can tell it sounds a bit rough for normal, if that make sense.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    Yeah, I suppose it could be possible. Not to hard to snag a new axle shaft from the junk yard either. Might be a good place to start.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    So maybe try and replace the shaft and not the housing?

    Thanks

    Rob

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    Which rear end do you have?
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    No idea? Sorry

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    The thing about bent axles is that it will make the wheel wobble when driving. Been there on that one with a D44 back in my youth. Bent housing should be evident by looking at it
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Location
    Clinton IL
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    I totally understand that, the wheel isn't wearing goofy or anything? That's why I'm confused. IT's just the bearings that aren't working correctly. Could the metal on the shaft the bearing rubs up against be dented or damaged?

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    Robert, we need to know which rear end you have. The D35 for instance could have bearings that ride on the axle without an inner race and that surface can be pitted causing premature failure etc. So the next step is to know what you have
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Location
    Clinton IL
    Posts
    697

    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    I will look on some of the paperwork when I get home, thanks
    Rob

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    Ok I can't figure out what type my rear end is?
    How do I figure this out?

  13. #13
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    Location
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    Take a look at the rear differential cover and compare with this

    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Clinton IL
    Posts
    697

    Smile Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    So funny that you put up pictures like that.

    Ok I have a D35

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Wheel bearing/rear end replacement question?

    OK, many of those axles have a bearing without an inner race. The axle shaft itself becomes the inner race. Being softer than a bearing race, it can get pitted and worn. So, if that is the case you have two options. If it is not worn too bad, you can use the one piece bearing that has an inner race and fix it that way or you will have to replace the axle shaft.
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

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