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Thread: *Smog help!*

  1. #31
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    No problem. If you fix the leak and the Sensor and the plugs, you should test for the misfire. If it's misfiring a simple trick is to take a money bill (any denom) and hold one end up to the tailpipe. If it flaps around wildly, no misfire. If it SUCKS IN the bill like a lot and towards the pipe, then you have a misfire. Test it after the repairs and find out. If it's completely done misfiring, it probably solved your problem and you should have it retested. Even if you fail it gives you valuable insight. If the numbers changed at all and I mean by like more than 5 ppm, you know you're getting on the right track and something you did affected it.
    If you're gonna wanna talk tough, I'll watch your eyes widen as I drop my Jeep on your hood like a Tonka Truck.

  2. #32
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    First of all my Renix had an egr on it . Secondly high NOX is caused by 3 things in this case 1. carbon build up on pistons due to bad o2 2.high temp, high pressure PVC orifice is clogged 3. bad cat. Your popping noise is more than likely caused by a lean misfire, bad o2 , tune up , ect ect . This will cause NOX and damage the cat. If you replaced the o2 did you use Jeep Parts? If not it is probably already bad as the Bosch and Denso do not work well in the Jeep at all. The quick fix and probably the best is to replace the o2 with factory part and replace the Cat. you can get them from NAPA cheap. Walker part number is a 80905 if you have a 1995. You should also replace the PCV orifice or at least be sure its not clogged.
    Aint got no whistle, don't belch out smoke, but my V10 aint no joke !!!

  3. #33
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    ok.. did a retest and failed. it was even higher.. so before this 2nd attempt this is what i did to my jeep.. replaced map sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, oil change, new air filter, replaced badly cracked PCV hoses (both in and out), also charcoal cannister hose was replaced due to cracking, ran "guaranteed to pass" stuff, cleaned iat sensor. now with all this done i ran the jeep for 20-25 mins hit the test center and got the failure..
    what really ticked me off was after i left the place using my free retest i went home opened hood took a look to see what i might be missing out on... jeez after all that i forgot to re-attach the air box to the throttle body during my maintenence. it was sitting on top of throttle body just not fully seated and clamped with plastic clamp. this only happened after my 1st failed attempt but now i dont know if EVERYTHING i did worked or not.. i guess i will have to pay again with the air box now attached and see what happens.. if NOx is still high than my last solution is O2 sensor and maybe CAT.. current o2 sensor is bosch installed about 6-8 months ago. (heard they are bad sensors?) also installed at that time was autolite platinum spark plugs. (does platinum burn hotter?) and CAT will be tested for efficiency. engine has 70k on it. now i wonder if my last failed smog shoud of been a PASS.

  4. #34
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    Platinum has better spark potential but it wears out quicker. Silver is the best because it is somewhere in the middle and has the highest conductivity of any metal, even more than copper. The only reason they don't use silver is because it is way more expensive than copper in auto applications. It's also not readily available for recycling to be used again. I know that because I worked at a scrapyard/recycling center for over 2 years. Check your MAP or MAF sensors. Typically, older model Jeeps use one or the other, and rarely both. I have a MAP. That's it. If your MAP is malfunctioning, it would cause ignition timing to go crazy. I know you said you replaced it but get it with the voltmeter and see what it reads at different times. It may not be the sensor but the computer, misinterpreting the voltage. Our MAP's are usually 2 wire configurations. 2 wire has a shared ground with a set 5v control voltage from the computer going through a resistor to the sensor which has another resistor then going through to ground. The way this changes is as the resistors change Ohm readings, the computer translates the voltage changes into set manufacturers values. The computer ALWAYS sends out a 5v reference voltage. If it doesn't, you got major problems lol check to see first that it even sends out voltages to your sensors. They should always be 5v controls with a variable rate between 0.5v-4.5v. If something isn't getting that reference voltage, it won't work. Check for those then see if they are wrong. If they are, clean all your grounds for the computer and the affected sensor.
    If you're gonna wanna talk tough, I'll watch your eyes widen as I drop my Jeep on your hood like a Tonka Truck.

  5. #35
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    I can not give a reason , technical at least but fancy plugs suck in the 4.o change to regular Champion plugs they run the best and are the factory replacement for the vehicle. Again replace the o2 with a factory one. DO NOT run that Pass or Don't pay crap in it , that stuff actually drives up the HC and NOX , If you want to clean it out internally , one pint or ATF to a tank of gas is the best cleaner you can get. Be sure to run the entire tank empty before testing again . As for the hose not being attached that would not cause a failure other than it should have also been tagged as missing or modified ( a separate failure) as always good luck !!
    Aint got no whistle, don't belch out smoke, but my V10 aint no joke !!!

  6. #36
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    But if the air filter in hose is disconnected that means the ccv is also not doing its job helping remove NOx due to it being attached to the same hose correct? Ok so im gonna replace plugs with champion plugs and o2 sensor with oem sensor. Replacing CAT is still my last option. If cat WAS bad wouldnt my other numbers be high? Also any other thoughts? Thanks all for helping out!

  7. #37
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    Not enough to cause a big jump. And always replace your parts with OEM replacements. Never go aftermarket as most of them are deeply non-universal and simply aesthetic. Most aftermarket parts do nothing for your car. Mufflers make lawnmower sounds, 'racing' air filters are cheaply made and choke the engine because they let less but cleaner air through while being overpriced, and most headlights that aren't stock supported or are add on lights are illegal in certain conditions. I can't even have my aftermarket running lights on anywhere in California if my high beams are on. Not to mention, aftermarket parts void manufacturer and mechanic warranties on your car. Anyone who says they will warranty an aftermarket part they didn't put on is full of it. It helps to have family and friends who are part of the automotive industry and auto insurance industries. Most insurance companies won't even cover you if they feel your aftermarket part caused your car to crash, break down, etc. Always put on OEM parts since they are universal 99% of the time and are almost the exact configuration as the original part with basically the same rate of wear. You'll be better off using OEM parts in the long run. Certain things are understandable as most 'lifts' are generally not stock, same with gauges but they make aesthetic OEM's of those too.
    If you're gonna wanna talk tough, I'll watch your eyes widen as I drop my Jeep on your hood like a Tonka Truck.

  8. #38
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    ok. so to report back a bit.. i pulled the double platinum plugs to check them also get a view inside combustion chambers to see for any buid up.. (part of high NOx, combustion chamber exceeding temps of 2500 deg. with a cause of heavy carbon build up)...
    anyone have problems using CHAMPION 7034 DOUBLE PLAT plugs? im gonna be puttin in champion oem's any how.
    couldnt get a picture of combustion chamber but it was pretty carboned up good.. on a scale of 1-10 of carbon build up i would say it is a 6 1/2.... with out removing anything whats the best thing i can use to clean out my chambers as well as entire fuel system?
    http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...517_071805.jpg
    Last edited by rm2406; 05-17-2014 at 11:52 AM.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    Honestly, the best fuel system cleaner you can get is Lucas FSC. Lucas uses a base formula that mimics gasoline so it burns better and isn't bad for your car. It is made thicker so it coats everything with its detergents to clean it out. Never had any problems and nobody has come into our shop with problems from it either. I, personally, use Lucas every time I fill up but the recommended is every 2-3 fill ups. You should try Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer as well. The added friction from an underperforming oil can lead to excess heat thereby increasing NOx. Next time you do an oil change, put about 3/4 of the bottle in it. As you lose oil or it gets low due to breakdown, add the rest of it.

    Now about those plugs, as I have said before, platinum plugs burn the hottest and generate the most spark due to the low ignition point for the metal. The issue with platinum plugs (ANY plat plugs) is that the tips wear out much easier from being so readily sparked and will not burn off the gas as well as it should leading to excess carbon buildup. Go with iridium plugs OEM. That's what I have and I have practically zero carbon buildup (I check it every 3,000 miles at the oil change). Iridium is a stronger metal, less prone to wearing out than platinum. Yes it has a smaller spark potential but it also doesn't wear out as quickly as plats. You have a sustained spark for the majority of the plug. Platinum plugs also have a problem with the tip literally being blown off by the spark and that is never good. Platinum is not a very strong metal when used in plugs. Reason being, the metal is stretched thin to make the tip which weakens the metal and once it gets really worn, the tip blows off and can do massive damage to the engine i.e scratching the cylinder walls/piston heads, imprinting in the walls/heads, damage to the valves, etc. Besides the obvious damage your vehicle will now run terribly and if one is at that point the others are soon to follow.
    If you're gonna wanna talk tough, I'll watch your eyes widen as I drop my Jeep on your hood like a Tonka Truck.

  10. #40
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    ok so a little update on my situation... things ive changed: o2 sensor,map sensor,engine coolant temp sensor,fuel pressure regulator,put oem spark plugs,ran berrymans b12 in tank,coolant flush. so after all this being done my NOx went from 855ppm to 454ppm.
    i had a few vacuum hoses cracking and very brittle but i couldnt find them at any stores so i bought silicone universal hoses and replaced them.. good news! i passed the smog test.. kinda.. bad news they failed me because the universal silicone hoses are considered aftermaket and they put modified hoses=FAIL. also my IAT sensor was installed on the intake boot rather than intake manifold=tampered=FAIL... after 3 attempts i pass smog and fail because of hoses and IAT sensor.. thats B.S!!
    so i have to replace hoses with factory hoses but cant find them.. anyone know where to get oem hoses? i will also have to put back IAT sensor in original location... last smog tech said nothing about all the hoses or sensor....

  11. #41
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    Are you going to a regular smog station or a gold station? The gold are more strict. You should be able to find original hoses at a pick and pull for a 95
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  12. #42
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    it was a test only smog station... i will check out the pick and pull yard but incase i dont find any or the ones i do find are cracked or old also, will the dealer carry these hoses?

  13. #43
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    Dealers should. Also if you see any YJs with the 4.0, they will have the same engine parts. Check around for smog shops. I have gotten to know the guys in one that let a few things like hoses slide as long as it passes and they can show it on paper work
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  14. #44
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    so far the dealerships around here said that those particular hoses are discontinued.. im gonna just check out the pick in pull for now. yea he could of definetely overlooked that especially that he is a friend of a friend..

  15. #45
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    Default Re: *smog help!*

    I would start checking around at various smog stations. For instance, I have friends at the local 4X4 shop. But they are a gold station and they will not let me get away with my non stock air cleaner box. Hey it is a conversion anyway. But I got to chatting with some gear heads across town from them and they don't care, as long as the rest passes. I even have a 3" inlet on my cat, which is not legal in CA and they let that go. But it always passes with flying colors
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

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