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  1. #1
    Voldemort Guest

    Default Fuel pump replacement.

    Thank god that jeep made the Cherokee with theFuel sender on the side of the fuel tank makes this job alot less time consuming.
    Start with the good old Jack and If you're lifted high enough, you can do this with the tires on the ground... just be sure to set your parking brake before crawling underneath. Drain your gas tank as dry as possible. Siphoning with a hose is a good way to get sicker than a dog so get a siphon pump and a gas can! Several gas cans are handy if you don't have another vehicle to pour the gas into and you have a full tank. Gas level needs to be well below the fuel pump portal in the tank.
    Hers is what she looks like

    Here's a view with all fuel pump hoses removed and the ring cleaned up. You can see the twist lock ring that retains the pump underneath the tank mounted ring and around the center disc with the wiring and fuel line. You remove this ring using a flat brass punch and firmly striking it with a plastic covered hammer, knocking it counter clockwise.

    After you get the ring loose, CAREFULLY remove the pump from the tank.
    Try not to hit the tank float against anythingor you will damage the sending unit and have a fuel gauge that misreads! Also, there is a rubber 'foot' that holds the pump in place in the tank. This 'foot' goes onto the bottom of the pump assembly and can fall into the tank if you're not careful! If you're lucky and extremely careful, you won't have to drop the tank down and go fishin'. Which is what makes it easy in the fist place
    here it is out and ready for the switch.

    The large o-ring (hanging loose) is the tank sealing ring that goes under the lock ring. Check this for damage and if it's ok you should be able to reuse it. Shown at the bottom with the float is the inlet sock filter which keeps the 'big chunks' out of the gas before it flows to your fuel filter. Replace this filter when you replace your pump! Note that there are two wires going to your pump and that they should have different sized terminals to prevent miswiring. Sketch these on a piece of paper and note which one is + positive and which one is - negative and tag the + positive lead with a wire tie to help your memory if necessary. Disassembly is an easy process at this point... , remove the fuel inlet 'sock' filter, unhook the wires, remove the nut & lock washer then lift the pump from the pump mount. Note that there are two rubber vibration isolators; one at each end of the pump. Your replacement should have these in addition to any needed adapter sleeve.
    Make sure your new pump looks like the old pump or comes with the adapter sleeve are else you will be making another trip to theparts place here is how it should be

    The Auto Zone pump also had adapters for hooking up the wires... BE SURE TO USE THEM IF INCLUDED! They keep you from having to splice wires making hook up a 'plug & play' operation. Just be sure that the wires are securely isolated and that they will NOT contact any other surface! Do NOT overtighten these brass nuts! (The terminals are VERY fragile!) The Auto Zone kit's adapter surrounded the terminals pretty well, but care was still needed to make sure everything was seated right. Reassembly is pretty straight forward once you get the pump remounted on the tank mount. The hardest part was figuring out how the adapter fits onto the pump along with the isolators but that was actually pretty simple. Snug down the nut with lock washer to hold everything in place and make sure your hoses and wires are reconnected from the pump to the top of the pump mount.Put the inlet 'sock' filter and rubber 'foot' back on and prepare for re installation.Hold that o-ring up near the tank port area of the pump mount during installation and BE CAREFUL WITH THE PUMP ASSEMBLY! Gently install the pump back into the tank being sure to keep that stupid foot in place. Don't worry, it'll pretty much go right into place on the bottom of the tank if you're careful. Holding the mount in place, reinstall the locking ring. Be careful with the o ring! I used a bit of grease on mine to keep from twisting it under the lock ring, but that's not really necessary if you're careful. Make sure it's seated properly and that the locking ring is fully clockwise against the stops. Reconnect fuel pump wire harness and hoses, checking for dry rotted hoses and bad clamps. Replace as needed. Zip tie wire harness and hoses in place as needed.Reconnect the battery and turn ignition switch to 'run' position. You should hear your fuel pump crank up long enough to build pressure then pump should shut off. Check for leaks. Start it up & check for leaks again.Clean up yer mess!
    Reference: www.lunghd.com

  2. #2
    cher96 Guest

    Default

    WoW !!! This is Great !!!

    I have just been searching out a New Fuel Pump on the Net!

    I need to replace mine ASAP.

    Thanks for the Post!

  3. #3
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    The instructions are different for a 97+ model, correct? I don't see a fuel filter so I am assuming that this isn't right for my 98. I need to replace my fuel filter.

    Great write up though, thank you!

  4. #4
    cher96 Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mudderoy View Post
    The instructions are different for a 97+ model, correct? I don't see a fuel filter so I am assuming that this isn't right for my 98. I need to replace my fuel filter.

    Great write up though, thank you!
    The '97+ XJs use a much larger fuel pump and it costs a lot more than the '87 to '96 fuel pumps do.

    They go for around 230+ where as you can find earlier ('87 to '96) fuel pumps for as little as 51. I would never recommend one that cheap. For a good '96 and older model fuel pump they run about 150+.

    Fuel filters on most XJs are external and on the fuel line. '97 to '01 I believe it is external however housed within the center of the fuel pump assembly.
    http://www.teamcherokee.com/Fuel_System/index.html

    about half way down the page.

    I'll do more research.

  5. #5
    cher96 Guest

    Default

    The fuel filter for 97+ is within the Fuel Pump Assembly, however, unfortunately, the fuel pump assembly is supposed to be taken out to service it.

    Here is what I found:

    http://www.scribd.com/doc/3503723/Je...14-Fuel-System

    Page 15/52

    It is for a 2000 XJ, however, the '97 to '01 I believe have the same Fuel Pump Assembly.

    Hope this helps.

  6. #6
    Voldemort Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mudderoy View Post
    The instructions are different for a 97+ model, correct? I don't see a fuel filter so I am assuming that this isn't right for my 98. I need to replace my fuel filter.

    Great write up though, thank you!
    I have no idea if they are different because I have not been lucky enough to own a newer one. How are they different?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbadxj View Post
    I have no idea if they are different because I have not been lucky enough to own a newer one. How are they different?
    Fuel filter is located inside the gas tank. <= Not lucky

  8. #8
    Voldemort Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudderoy View Post
    Fuel filter is located inside the gas tank. <= Not lucky
    Yea that would suck i I find a write up for them I will pass it along.

  9. #9
    cher96 Guest

    Default

    The fuel filter is located within the center of the fuel pump on '97 to '01 XJs

    The fuel pump assembly is located on top of the gas tank unlike earlier XJs ('87 to '96) in which the fuel filter is found on the fuel line and the fuel pump is on the front side of the gas tank.

    1997-02 Wranglers, 1997-00 Cherokees, and 1997-98 Grand Cherokees have all the same fuel pump assemblies and are very expensive. Sorry.

    Here is an official parts catalog for the '98 XJ:

    http://www.scribd.com/doc/2662806/Je...-Parts-Catalog

    The Fuel Pump is found on page 238 of the 624 pages. Illustration 14-520

    The Gas Tank is found on page 226. Illustration 14-120

    Along with this and the following Repair Guide... You should be able to change out your fuel filter without taking out the Fuel Pump Assembly. You will have to drop the Fuel Tank to get to it.

    http://www.scribd.com/doc/3503723/Je...14-Fuel-System

    Fuel Filter Change: Page 13 to 14

    Fuel Tank Removal: Page 19

    Again, this is for a 2000 XJ, however, the '97 to '01 have the same Fuel Pump Assembly and gas tank.

    Hope this helps.

  10. #10
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    On the later models the tank has to be dropped to change the pump/filter. That is way more trouble. I will keep my old Renix junk. I can afford to work on it.

  11. #11
    cher96 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueXJ View Post
    On the later models the tank has to be dropped to change the pump/filter. That is way more trouble. I will keep my old Renix junk. I can afford to work on it.
    There are so many reasons I went with a '96 XJ.

    OBD II and High Pinion D30 both came on the '96

    Stronger Head on a 4.0L H.O. up to the '98 model year. '99+ have a weaker head but a fantastic intake manifold. That why I swapped an '04 intake on mine.

    And the fuel pump and filter up to '96 is cheaper and easier to change out than that of '97+ XJs.

    What can I say.... '96 XJs Rock !!!! It's just my opinion.

  12. #12
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    yup, thank god my 90 XJ has the pump mounted on the side. Had to do a emergency change while I was out and about one day. Made it so much easier. But I did learn there are two different models of pumps for my year of XJ..thank goodness the parts store wasnt too far of a walk...especially the second trip to get the right one. lol. fun fun.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Fuel pump replacement.

    Thanks for the follow-up write up! Guess I'll start saving pennies for this too!
    When the weather calls for 4x4...GO JEEP!

    '98 XJ - Wet Okole seatcovers & Thule gear
    '06 XK - Brush guards, nerf bars & rear light guards

    '94 Honda VFR
    '03 HD FLHTCUI

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Fuel pump replacement.

    Well dont' need the writeup for changing my fuel pump... well not exactly anyways... I have to change the fuel level sending unit as it decides to work randomly... so going to have to fix that... but putting it off until it completely stops working... since I have to spend so much for the "fuel package"....

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Fuel pump replacement.

    Looked at 97s pump from Auto zone they charge 120 for pump and seals but doesn't come with a strainer. For 200 they have a complete set up with a strainer and sending unit and it's an upgraded system. When mine starts going I think AutoZone will be where I start looking.

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