Acceptable fix for a power window lock issue?

[firehawk]

Wanting to know if this is an "acceptable" fix for my power window lock issue. I found in the connector the yellow with a green tracer is the power to the connector. A larger gauge yellow wire is apparently feeds power to the passengerside, and both rear windows. There seems to be a problem in the connector as I can wiggle the yellow wire and get power to it, but not constantly. The window lock switch will cut power to the yellow wire.

I made a RED jumper wire to go from the yellow/green wire to the yellow wire and have constant power. All the window switches will work with this jumper in. All it appears to have done is bypass the lock switch, or connection problem in the connector itself. Can anyone see a problem with doing this? I don't want to have a fire/short issue.:smiley-scared002:

Here's a pic of what I did. I didn't leave the jumper in until I got some feedback for someone that knows more about this than I do.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a155/kbharbison/100_1767.jpg

[Mudderoy]

There isn't enough information to be certain, however if you are pulling 12 volts from another source, then you are increasing the current demands on that source. The fuse that protects that circuit might be more prone to burn out.

Your best best would be to replace the failing part. The connector or what it is connecting to.

Thank you Captain Obvious? :)

[firehawk]

There isn't enough information to be certain, however if you are pulling 12 volts from another source, then you are increasing the current demands on that source. The fuse that protects that circuit might be more prone to burn out.

Your best best would be to replace the failing part. The connector or what it is connecting to.

Thank you Captain Obvious? :)

I see your point but... the yellow/green wire I'm jumping power from is the wire that feeds that connector. It is the small connector on the top of the switch control on the driver's door. It appears it is only powering the passenger side door, and both rear door window motors. When I could get the other windows to work without the jumper, pushing the lock switch would cut power from the yellow/green wire to the yellow wire. So to me it seems like maybe the switch is what is bad, and me wiggling the wire would make contact IN the switch. It looks like I am just bypassing the switch with the jumper. BTW, I used to be able to get the other door switches to work by pushing the window lock button up and down several times. It would work for awhile then quit again.

[Mudderoy]

I see your point but... the yellow/gree wire I'm jumping power from is the wire that feeds that connector. It is the small connector on the top of the switch control on the driver's door. It appears it is only powering the passenger side door, and both rear door window motors. When I could get the other windows to work without the jumper, pushing the lock switch would cut power fron the yellow/green wire to the yellow wire. So to me it seems like maybe the switch is what is bad, and me wiggling the wire would make contact IN the switch. It looks like I am just bypassing the switch with the jumper.

If you are comfortable with it, well only time will tell. If it makes you feel any better I just fixed our fancy $600 microwave by taking one of the 3 switches out, seeing it had melted the plastic switch case slightly. I cut and put in a small amount of soda straw in there to raise the little contact back in position to the switch would work again. Put it all back together and it works like a champ. For how long though?!?!? That switch is $35 from GE online. It looks like it's work about $5.

So like I said what ever you feel comfortable with. ;)

[firehawk]

If you are comfortable with it, well only time will tell. If it makes you feel any better I just fixed our fancy $600 microwave by taking one of the 3 switches out, seeing it had melted the plastic switch case slightly. I cut and put in a small amount of soda straw in there to raise the little contact back in position to the switch would work again. Put it all back together and it works like a champ. For how long though?!?!? That switch is $35 from GE online. It looks like it's work about $5.

So like I said what ever you feel comfortable with. ;)


That sounds somewhat how I fixed the switch that turns my power washer on when you push the trigger on the wand.:D

I "feel" comfortable with the jumper but....I'm no :Delectricianist!:D So I was wanting other input.

[Mudderoy]

That sounds somewhat how I fixed the switch that turns my power washer on when you push the trigger on the wand.:D

I "feel" comfortable with the jumper but....I'm no :Delectricianist!:D So I was wanting other input.

Well let's see what the others have to say.

[firehawk]

I fixed the problem today. I found a replacement switch control panel on eBay. I ended up getting it for $45. It is a brand new aftermarket part, but it matches the factory part perfectly, and everything fuctions like new.

I'm so happy!:smiley-bounce015:

[BlueXJ]

Glad you got it fixed before you burned the Jeep to the ground.

[firehawk]

Glad you got it fixed before you burned the Jeep to the ground.

You're right. I felt "comfortable" with the jumper wire, but not REAL comfortable. Especially when it blew the fuse last week.:eek: It appeared to work fine with the lock switch depressed, but I began to think about me fumbling in the dark one morning and accidentaly pushing it instead of the door lock, or window switch.

[Melissa]

If you are comfortable with it, well only time will tell. If it makes you feel any better I just fixed our fancy $600 microwave by taking one of the 3 switches out, seeing it had melted the plastic switch case slightly. I cut and put in a small amount of soda straw in there to raise the little contact back in position to the switch would work again. Put it all back together and it works like a champ. For how long though?!?!? That switch is $35 from GE online. It looks like it's work about $5.

So like I said what ever you feel comfortable with. ;)



There are actually microwaves out there that cost $600 :eek:

Mine cost me $30 at wally world, works wonderful :headbag:

[Mudderoy]

There are actually microwaves out there that cost $600 :eek:

Mine cost me $30 at wally world, works wonderful :headbag:

Actually I think the house builder was selling it (as a add in) for $750 (in 1997). We got the brand and model from a model home and bought the same one at Circuit City for I think it was $475 and I installed it myself.

It is one of those HUGE microwaves that mounts above the oven.

The only problem we have had with it is a broken door handle and that stupid POS switch.

[cpttuna]

could you post the picture of your fix again?

[Dredwolf]

You talking about the jumper wire? I may have that pic in my thread...

You could also check and see if the solder joints going through the board are cracked.

[Dredwolf]

Got pics of the location for the jumper in this thread:

http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=12325