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View Full Version : Your Jeep Coolant Gauge



Mudderoy
06-29-2009, 10:32 PM
Ok anyone with a calculator can figure this out but....

100.00
127.50
155.00
182.50
210.00
222.50
235.00
247.50
260.00

Here are the values for all the hash marks on your XJ's temp gauge.

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/JeepTempGauge1.jpg

Mudderoy
06-29-2009, 10:34 PM
So when it is hot out, say 98 to 100 degrees what temp does your Jeep run?

I'm thinking 210, but it may be I am not remembering correctly. My ran about 215/216 today.

kmanxj
06-29-2009, 10:51 PM
wow i would hate mine to be at 215 lol

mine hits 210 tops on the dunes maybe 215 if i am driving hard for an extended period

Melissa
06-29-2009, 11:28 PM
My weather has not hit past 94 degrees, but so far my temps have topped out at 210

kryptonitexj
06-30-2009, 07:51 AM
Idling in traffic its 210 once i get moving Its about 180 on the freeway its about 170-175.:P

Mudderoy
06-30-2009, 08:38 AM
Yeah the "Answer" guy from the "Just Ask" website is trying to tell me that it is normal for my Jeep to run higher than 210 in 100 degree heat. I didn't think so but I wanted to be fair and check. Don't lie to me about it! This running hot is driving me crazy already! :D

kryptonitexj
06-30-2009, 08:59 AM
You should really have your Cooling system pressure checked to insure theres no leak in your system. If the system cant hold pressure it wont be able to hold the heat. For every 1 psi the coolant is under pressure you can increase the boiling point by 3 degrees. So If you have a 15 psi rad cap you can add 45 more degrees to the coolant before it boils.
water boils at 212 degrees f
15psi * 3degrees= 45 deg.

212+45=257 deg before the coolant boils. If you have a small leak in the engine it wont be unable to maintain pressure so the coolant will get hotter. let me know it this helps.

Mudderoy
06-30-2009, 09:06 AM
You should really have your Cooling system pressure checked to insure theres no leak in your system. If the system cant hold pressure it wont be able to hold the heat. For every 1 psi the coolant is under pressure you can increase the boiling point by 3 degrees. So If you have a 15 psi rad cap you can add 45 more degrees to the coolant before it boils.
water boils at 212 degrees f
15psi * 3degrees= 45 deg.

212+45=257 deg before the coolant boils. If you have a small leak in the engine it wont be unable to maintain pressure so the coolant will get hotter. let me know it this helps.

Good information thanks. I would have the pressure checked, but every time I check the levels in the overflow bottle, or take the cap off the radiator the levels are fine. I have a 16 psi cap, less than a year old.

When I checked the level a few days ago the pretty green liquid was NOT at the top like normal. Come to find out the hose to the overflow had split. I removed that part and resolved that leak. Later I replaced the entire hose. I had to put in about 16 oz of water to fill it back up.

I really don't think I have a leak, and if the over flow bottle is a good measurement the pressure is building and releasing as it should. The bottle level changes with the heat of the coolant.

It's easy to see under the Jeep, so I check for leaks when I get in or out. Nothing.

kmanxj
06-30-2009, 10:08 AM
i have a leak somwhere. I am almost thinking a freeze plug. I have to add coolant about once a month. But it doesnt drip anywhere that i can see

Mudderoy
06-30-2009, 10:14 AM
i have a leak somwhere. I am almost thinking a freeze plug. I have to add coolant about once a month. But it doesnt drip anywhere that i can see

Yep, I had my freeze plugs replace about 3 years ago. They are all crap, except for the front freeze plug that has the block heater in it. That freeze plug was great.

Replacing them isn't that bad, getting to them is.

Melissa
06-30-2009, 02:37 PM
Not that it matters but I did not mention that I do run at 155 when at cruising speeds, and then tops out at 210 while idling and driving speeds below 35mph.

Mudderoy
06-30-2009, 03:58 PM
Not that it matters but I did not mention that I do run at 155 when at cruising speeds, and then tops out at 210 while idling and driving speeds below 35mph.

Brand new mine would warm up to 210 and then stay there, period.

firehawk
06-30-2009, 04:49 PM
Mine will run a needle's width below 210* almost all the time. If it is HOT, say 85*+ and I run the A/C it will get a needle's width above 210* if I am sitting in traffic.

I'm curious as to what removing the hood and driving around, how it would effect the temps? I know on a HOT day and after driving home from work, I bet I could fry an egg on the front 6" of my hood. You cannot hardly even touch it to open it. There is nowhere for the heat to escape.:thumbdown:

Here's an example of how anal I can be...on a hot day when I get home I will open the hood to allow the everything to cool down. I see no reason to just let it sit there and bake in it's own heat. Hey....it's my baby!!:D

Mudderoy
06-30-2009, 06:31 PM
Mine will run a needle's width below 210* almost all the time. If it is HOT, say 85*+ and I run the A/C it will get a needle's width above 210* if I am sitting in traffic.

I'm curious as to what removing the hood and driving around, how it would effect the temps? I know on a HOT day and after driving home from work, I bet I could fry an egg on the front 6" of my hood. You cannot hardly even touch it to open it. There is nowhere for the heat to escape.:thumbdown:

Here's an example of how anal I can be...on a hot day when I get home I will open the hood to allow the everything to cool down. I see no reason to just let it sit there and bake in it's own heat. Hey....it's my baby!!:D

I've wondered about the hood removal myself.

Melissa
06-30-2009, 07:50 PM
Brand new mine would warm up to 210 and then stay there, period.

Mine used to go to 210 then stay there, but I did put a 160 thermostat in to try and keep it cooler right before I had the new radiator installed






Mine will run a needle's width below 210* almost all the time. If it is HOT, say 85*+ and I run the A/C it will get a needle's width above 210* if I am sitting in traffic.

I'm curious as to what removing the hood and driving around, how it would effect the temps? I know on a HOT day and after driving home from work, I bet I could fry an egg on the front 6" of my hood. You cannot hardly even touch it to open it. There is nowhere for the heat to escape.:thumbdown:

Here's an example of how anal I can be...on a hot day when I get home I will open the hood to allow the everything to cool down. I see no reason to just let it sit there and bake in it's own heat. Hey....it's my baby!!:D


If it were legal here I would take my hood off in the summer, but it's not, so I am trying to get hood vents.

Oh and I also open my hood after a long drive to help it cool down, it's my baby too :thumbsup::thumbsup:

BlueXJ
07-01-2009, 12:58 AM
Got to protect it from heat by any means that are legal to obtain or perform.

greenchevy
07-01-2009, 06:38 PM
mine stays close to 210 almost always lately but is has been 100 or more degrees out side for the past few weeks. Same here no leaks

whowey
07-04-2009, 08:13 AM
I run one of the water wetters and have the hilly-billy cowl induction hood. But I run just under 210 on the road. During winter(real winter not what you Texans get) It barely runs over 190, even on -25 wind chill days.

When you are going down the road you can see the heat roll out of the lifted cowl area. When I first installed it, I took a 4 hour interstate trip with-out it to check the heat level. The return trip the next day in the same weather I saw a 5 degree difference in temps on the road.

I later installed the fan by pass switch to allow me off-road control of the fan.

prcjeep
04-03-2010, 03:57 PM
Yep, I had my freeze plugs replace about 3 years ago. They are all crap, except for the front freeze plug that has the block heater in it. That freeze plug was great.

Replacing them isn't that bad, getting to them is.

I'm having a coolant leak from the area by the engine block and waterpump, where the lower radiator hose connects. In December I replaced the waterpump, lower hose and t-stat and the leak problem seemed to stop. Now every now and again with it getting hotter it will leak there and i checked the system pressure today and its good... The guy i talked to said it would most likely be the freeze plug located right behind the water pump... Any input? How hard would it be for me to change that freeze plug and maybe the others as well? :confused:
Thanks.

Mudderoy
04-03-2010, 04:26 PM
I'm having a coolant leak from the area by the engine block and waterpump, where the lower radiator hose connects. In December I replaced the waterpump, lower hose and t-stat and the leak problem seemed to stop. Now every now and again with it getting hotter it will leak there and i checked the system pressure today and its good... The guy i talked to said it would most likely be the freeze plug located right behind the water pump... Any input? How hard would it be for me to change that freeze plug and maybe the others as well? :confused:
Thanks.

I'll have to check that. I've only ever changed the 6 freeze plugs that are just under the intake and exhaust manifold.

prcjeep
04-03-2010, 04:36 PM
I'll have to check that. I've only ever changed the 6 freeze plugs that are just under the intake and exhaust manifold.
Okay, Yeah when he told me about the one he said it likely was I had no idea what he was talking about... I really don't want to have to pull the wter pump out again if the prob isn't in there.

pvt.Tadpol xj
04-03-2010, 06:57 PM
My 91 xj is still all factory and I replaced all of the cooling system last summer including a thermo. from chrysler. 195 degree. It alway's run's at 110 in the warmer to hot weather. In the winter it peak's at about 200. And i find that my MPG are less in the winter time.

Mudderoy
04-03-2010, 07:18 PM
Okay, Yeah when he told me about the one he said it likely was I had no idea what he was talking about... I really don't want to have to pull the wter pump out again if the prob isn't in there.

http://i11.tinypic.com/2vn1b21.jpg

Where's the freeze plug?

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e172/XJoshua/11-8007.jpg

I wonder if he is talking about the freeze plug on this side (behind the water pump) could be the first hole shown here on the left.

prcjeep
04-03-2010, 10:29 PM
Well I went and had a look and saw three "freeze" plugs down the drivers side... I don't see any stains on the block designating leaking from them. However, when I moved it in the garage to have a look and to have a clean floor to lay on. Well its leaking from the lower rad hose/water pump connection... or at least that's where the coolant was dripping from.
Anyone have a clue where this could be leaking from? I did the pressure test and it was good! The pressure held at 20PSI for a good 5 minutes...

Mudderoy
04-03-2010, 10:53 PM
Well I went and had a look and saw three "freeze" plugs down the drivers side... I don't see any stains on the block designating leaking from them. However, when I moved it in the garage to have a look and to have a clean floor to lay on. Well its leaking from the lower rad hose/water pump connection... or at least that's where the coolant was dripping from.
Anyone have a clue where this could be leaking from? I did the pressure test and it was good! The pressure held at 20PSI for a good 5 minutes...

Well based on the 5 water pumps I have replaced...

I guess it could be a leak around the thermostat housing.

prcjeep
04-03-2010, 10:57 PM
Wouldn't that present itself during the pressure test?

Mudderoy
04-03-2010, 11:00 PM
Wouldn't that present itself during the pressure test?

I don't know. I've never did one. My experience has been that EVERY time water is trickling under the water pump the water pump is bad. V8 Chevys, and my 4.0L.

Have you tried the black light to trace the exact spot the leak is coming from?

prcjeep
04-03-2010, 11:40 PM
I don't know. I've never did one. My experience has been that EVERY time water is trickling under the water pump the water pump is bad. V8 Chevys, and my 4.0L.

Have you tried the black light to trace the exact spot the leak is coming from?

That i have not... I will try and do that tomorrow!

4.3LXJ
04-04-2010, 12:38 AM
So when it is hot out, say 98 to 100 degrees what temp does your Jeep run?

I'm thinking 210, but it may be I am not remembering correctly. My ran about 215/216 today.

Everyone.

XJs have been notorious for running hot. I think, and this is just an opinion, that part of that perception is due to the placement of the sensor at the back of the engine. The back will run hotter than the front. Enough I think that it is measurable. I think that one thing that should be done that never is is to measure the temp of the coolant leaving the engine which would represent an average of those two temps, which I am thinking would be closer to the 195* mark on the open tstat.

I noticed this phenomenon on my own, which admittedly is not a 4.0 but a V6 which is worse for air flow in the rear of the engine bay. I lost two sets of head gaskets that failed at the very back of the engine, while the average temp was not that hot. There are many other engines, most notably the Toyota 3.0 V6 that have the same problem.

When I remove my hood, I have no overheating problems. That is why I have vented my hood so much. My opinion is that venting will go a long ways toward solving some of this.

HarleyRider
04-10-2010, 06:59 PM
Mine runs at 210 in town. If I push it going up the pass or drive it at 70 mph it hits 222. I'm thinking of doing the mod's for the radiator to get rid of the coolant bottle. If i'm out driving slow in 4x4 it hangs at 210. The electric fan cycles just like it suppose to. :driving:

HarleyRider
04-11-2010, 09:08 AM
Here's a stupid question. How do you get the standard pressure tester to fit the coolant bottle. All the ones I've looked at have the standard radiator cap fitting. Is there setup to test the system I have on my jeep or is it a make it yourself type of deal. LOL :confused: