How to change rear wheel bearings

[4.3LXJ]

Had to change the left rear wheel bearing on the XJ today. It has about 300K on it and has been driving me nuts :bang: with noise.

My 86 XJ came with the infamous Dana 35, however one plus is that I have non C clip axles. The plate on the outside of the axle bearing holds the bearing in and thus the axle.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1109.jpg

To start, jack up the rear, remove the wheel and brake drum. It should just slide off.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1110.jpg

Next, there is a small plate with four bolts on it that holds the axle in. These must be removed next. It is not necessary to remove any part of the brake assembly.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1111.jpg

If you have ever wanted an excuse to get one of those flexible ratchet wrenches, this is the time

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1112.jpg

The plate should slide freely off the studs like this.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1113.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1114.jpg

Next, the axle should be able to be removed. However if you have C clip axles, you will have to remove the differential cover and rotate the carrier to the appropriate position and remove the C clip first. To remove the axle, you will need a slide hammer. These can be rented or borrowed from many parts stores.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1119.jpg

Since the wheel bearing was shot, the outer race stayed in the axle housing. But not to worry, slide hammer kits have a small gear puller that attaches to the end. Use the reverse jaws. It will remove easily.


http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1115.jpg


Next you will have to remove the bearing from the axle. It has two pieces, the inner bearing race and a safety ring. To remove the safety ring, get the big effin hammer out and a good sharp cold chisel. Drive the point of the chisel into the safety ring. It is soft and doing so will make it slightly larger.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1116.jpg

This is about how far you have to drive the chisel in. This ring almost came off in my hand. If still secure, use the chisel to drive it off.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1117.jpg

Next, you have to remove the inner race. It is much harder than the chisel, so you will have to drive it off using the chisel like this. If you look closely, you will see that the race has already moved about 1/16". BE CREFUL NOT TO TRY TO MOVE THE INNER RACE BY DRIVING THE CHISEL BETWEEN THE AXLE AND RACE. This will damage the seal surface and then you will get to buy a new axle. Make sure the chisel only touches the bearing race.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1118.jpg

Here the race is moved a little more. You must make sure the chisel does not touch the shaft here also. Scoring the axle will make it difficult to press the new bearing on.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1121.jpg

The first thing to go back on is the new seal. Make sure the little retainer plate is still on the axle. The seal has an inner and outer lip. It is made to seal both ways. Fill the inner area with grease so it will always remain lubricated. This is the only grease that will be in this area

Packing tapered roller bearings - YouTube

Next, you must pack the new bearing with grease. It only comes with enough lubricant to assemble and keep it from corroding. Click on the video to see how to do it.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1122.jpg

Next the bearing needs to be pressed on. I could do it in my press, but setting it up was not worth the trouble. Grind the end of the cold chisel flat and place it on the inner race and hit it with the hammer. Alternate sides and it will go on easily.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1123.jpg

Repeat the procedure with the safety ring.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1113.jpg

Now you are ready to put it back in the axel tube. When it gets to the carrier it will stop. Just push down a little on the axle shaft and rotate slightly and it will find its way into the spider gears. Reattach the slide hammer and use the slider to knock the new bearing in. It needs to be snug. At this point, you need to insert the C clip if you have one and bolt the cover on and fill with new oil.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1111.jpg

The bearing will be in place, but the seal will not. This might look daunting, but it is not. Put the retainer plate in place, put all four nuts back on and slowly and evenly tighten them. This will press the seal in place. Make sure the nuts are all the way tightened down. It is the retainer plate pushing on the outer ring of the seal which pushes on the outer bearing race which keeps the axle in place.

Put the wheel back on, torquing the lug nuts down to 75# and you are done.

[gary63]

nice wright up :thumbsup:

[KH96XJ]

I wish I had the space to do work in my garage. Thanks for the write up.

[saar]

Very nice write up, I think placing the new bearing with a press is better for the bearing (the hammer can damage the new bearing)
Thank you,
Saar.

[Hawkeye-Harris]

Not to revive this thread, but I'm doing my XJ's wheel bearing now and using this post as a guide (since the FSM I bought off ebay is a fake!:( refunded, btw). This post is very good and I'm grateful to you for doing it, very helpful.


Next, there is a small plate with four bolts on it that holds the axle in.
When you removed this plate, why did you choose to use a box-end ratchet wrench instead of a ratchet w/socket through the provided hole in the axle-flange?


… you will have to drive it off using the chisel like this.
I don't quite understand how you could drive the bearing off with the chisel at that angle, and I'm wondering how I'm going to do this part.
I've seen people use a cutoff wheel to cut most of the way through the inner race then split the last tiny bit with a chisel and I've seen where someone used a cutting torch, carefully avoiding the axle-shaft (no, i'm not going to use the torch).

[4.3LXJ]

Not to revive this thread, but I'm doing my XJ's wheel bearing now and using this post as a guide (since the FSM I bought off ebay is a fake!:( refunded, btw). This post is very good and I'm grateful to you for doing it, very helpful.


When you removed this plate, why did you choose to use a box-end ratchet wrench instead of a ratchet w/socket through the provided hole in the axle-flange?

No particular reason, besides it was a tool everyone probably has and could be used on the trail or in a shop. The last time I removed the axle to do a disc brake conversion I used my impact and a deep socket with a short extension

I don't quite understand how you could drive the bearing off with the chisel at that angle, and I'm wondering how I'm going to do this part.
I've seen people use a cutoff wheel to cut most of the way through the inner race then split the last tiny bit with a chisel and I've seen where someone used a cutting torch, carefully avoiding the axle-shaft (no, i'm not going to use the torch).

You can. Pics is proof. I used this method because everyone can do it with a simple tool. I can cut off a bearing with a torch and have done it many times. But this was a how to thread that could be used anywhere.

[Hawkeye-Harris]

4.3LXJ, Thank you.