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05-26-2009, 12:17 PM
OK...there seem to be too many threads with "my xj is overheating" or "yet another overheating thread" or "it only overheats when..." and I am going to try to answer them all and maybe we can get this to become a sticky or maybe posted somewhere.

All Cherokees from the factory have a cooling system which is designed to remove heat from the engine and transfer it away. Coolant being pumped by a water pump flows through cooling jackets/passages in the head and block of the engine. It flows around exhaust and intake ports and around the cylinders. From there it goes to the radiator which had hundreds of small fins to increase surface area and that allows as much air as possible to take heat away from the coolant and the cycle repeats istelf over and over.

Chrysler opted for a mechanical clutch style cooling fan to draw air over the radiator to cool at idle and slow speeds. Some models depending on options also have an electric fan for optional A/C or towing package which turns on with a/c (on 2000 and 2001 xjs it turns on with a/c only when pressure in the lines goes past 300 psi) or when coolant temperature exceeds between 218-224 degrees F.

When working correctly and all parts are maintained, this setup works great.

Here are some reasons your Cherokee would overheat (240+f) at idle but not at 30+mph:
Fan clutch worn out
Old coolant
Aux. electric fan not turning on
blocked radiator or coolant passages
Low fluid level
Low engine oil level
Water pump impeller wearing causing low flow at slow speeds
clogged radiator fins or air blockage to radiator
Damaged fan shroud
Retards who upgrade engines and leave stock cooling system


If your Cherokee overheats on the highway 240+F:

Clogged passages
Stuck closed thermostat
Towing a heavy load up a grade on a hot day w or w/o ac on (temp. overheat)
contaminated coolant
bad water pump
clogged radiator fins
blocked airflow
brakes sticking/e brake on

If you overheat on the highway and NOT at slower speeds / idle:

partial blocked passages not flowing enough for highway engine demand but flows enough at idle.
Radiator blocked or fins clogged for same reason above
Brakes sticking
Overloading


Also, xj's have tight engine compartments and they will run 220ish in the summer with a/c on or off and that is NORMAL for xj's. Other vehicles have different coolant temps that they are designed to run well at so dont do too much comparing such as " my Taco runs 210 even though I beat it half way to hell) That's great...I only like taco from taco bell and the one she gives me...but anyway

Another thing to note...fan clutches run about $40 new depending where you go. With personal issues there is no TRUE way to test a clutch because they fail so many ways (trust me). Next time your engine is getting very hot, open the hood and feel the air the fan is pulling...rev er up some and if its not hurricane force, then replace that clutch. With the new body style xj's they upgraded the E-fan to a higher flow rate...so that might be an option for upgrades.
Please add on if you have anything extra.

quadracer0387
05-27-2009, 12:18 PM
you should include good things to help fix the problems...
list of brands, where to find them... so on...

1. CFS 3-row radiator
2. High flow thermostat
3. High flow water pump
4. High fow thermostat housing
5. Hood vents or raise rear of the hood 1"
6. Fan upgrade

weaselguys
09-27-2009, 09:26 PM
The Radiator Barn sells great all metal radiators (radiatorbarn.com) .I installed a 2 row in mine to avoid clearance problems and with a aux fan I towed my mini pu in 80 deg weather with straight water no antifreeze and never went over 210 drg.

Melissa
09-27-2009, 11:43 PM
you should include good things to help fix the problems...
list of brands, where to find them... so on...

1. CFS 3-row radiator
2. High flow thermostat
3. High flow water pump
4. High fow thermostat housing
5. Hood vents or raise rear of the hood 1"
6. Fan upgrade

I went for a new 2 core OEM radiator from my local auto parts store, and 190 fail safe thermostat also from my local auto parts, a Bosche OEM water pump on line, and a HD fan clutch from Napa that is for a 98 Grand Cherokee, problem solved, no more overheating, in fact runs cooler than when I bought it. :cheerleader::cheerleader: :driving:

I also have a new 3 core radiator I bought from radiator barn, for an up grade at a later date.

COSXJFAN
09-28-2009, 01:01 PM
I have an all metal, open style, 3 row rad, and can't get mine over 200*, even when wheeling hard!!

Mudderoy
09-28-2009, 01:29 PM
I'd be interested in hearing from someone that has a 4.0L 4.56 gears on 32" tires. What temp does your cooling system run at after driving at 70 mph for 10 minutes? (2800 rpm)

xj4life2
09-28-2009, 03:17 PM
I'd like to see someone with a 4.0 hit 70 for 10min lol lol just kidding. Actually my friend has the 4.56 and he runs at about 200 to 210 . keep in mind thats also pulling a hill going from 195' to about 2400'.

96xj
09-28-2009, 03:21 PM
I'd like to see someone with a 4.0 hit 70 for 10min lol lol just kidding. Actually my friend has the 4.56 and he runs at about 200 to 210 . keep in mind thats also pulling a hill going from 195' to about 2400'.

i do 70mph every day for more then 10 min what are you trying to say :shocker::confused:
and the rpm are at 25-2700

Mudderoy
09-28-2009, 04:21 PM
i do 70mph every day for more then 10 min what are you trying to say :shocker::confused:
and the rpm are at 25-2700

Yeah mine will still peg the speedo. My coolant gets hot if I drive 65+ for 5 minutes, up around 230. Some have said they think it's too high of a RPM but I don't think so. I run 2800 rpm at 70 mph, and 3000 at 80 mph.

COSXJFAN
09-28-2009, 04:37 PM
That's just about where I'm at, and I like it.

Mudderoy
09-28-2009, 04:41 PM
That's just about where I'm at, and I like it.

Same temp?

COSXJFAN
09-28-2009, 05:04 PM
No, like I said in my earlier post, I can't get my Jeep to get over 200*. I don't want to, and I know that it is running on the rich mix cycle, but I'm trying to come up with a way to fool my ECM into thinking that it is at the 200+* operating temp. Since mine is a Renny, I was thinking that a resistor in line somewhere that I could switch on and off, AKA rich or lean, or hot or cold, YADA YADA!!

Mudderoy
09-28-2009, 07:22 PM
No, like I said in my earlier post, I can't get my Jeep to get over 200*. I don't want to, and I know that it is running on the rich mix cycle, but I'm trying to come up with a way to fool my ECM into thinking that it is at the 200+* operating temp. Since mine is a Renny, I was thinking that a resistor in line somewhere that I could switch on and off, AKA rich or lean, or hot or cold, YADA YADA!!

Sorry I scrolled up, but I saw that I would have to click the previous page, so I just waited for you to answer. :D

I've been having a fuel mileage issue for about as long as the temp issue, maybe they are linked.

Xtreme XJ
10-20-2009, 10:28 PM
I wish I could keep mine at 200 deg. I on 32's with 4.56s mine is wound tight also... never had any issues though. Here at midnight it's over 100 deg. so the day time temps. make for some nervous communtes.
I have an older GDI 3 core brass rad. with large coolers on both the oil & trans. fluid and 3 light out front.
I think I might have a airflow issue AND the rad. might need rodding & cleaning


Curt

Mudderoy
10-21-2009, 12:56 AM
I wish I could keep mine at 200 deg. I on 32's with 4.56s mine is wound tight also... never had any issues though. Here at midnight it's over 100 deg. so the day time temps. make for some nervous communtes.
I have an older GDI 3 core brass rad. with large coolers on both the oil & trans. fluid and 3 light out front.
I think I might have a airflow issue AND the rad. might need rodding & cleaning


Curt

Maybe I've asked before, but what temps are you seeing? I have a 98, AW4, 4.56 gears and 32" tires. 230 isn't unusal at 2800 rpm, 70 mph. I've been fighting it for a couple of years now trying to get it back down to 210.

Xtreme XJ
10-22-2009, 12:19 AM
Maybe I've asked before, but what temps are you seeing? I have a 98, AW4, 4.56 gears and 32" tires. 230 isn't unusal at 2800 rpm, 70 mph. I've been fighting it for a couple of years now trying to get it back down to 210.

Well on a long grade in the summer I'll have to shut the A/C off... and on occasion hit the heater... so it's getting close to the red... these are with outside temps. over 100 deg.
Now just out running a trail on a 80 deg. day I will occasionally have it in the 220 to 235 deg. range... I know the 4.0L is designed to run at 210 deg... I just don't like it higher, I'm ooooold school... the cooler the better... I know it should be up to the 210 range... but I live in a very warm climate... also if I leave town I HAVE to climb some grade... my house is about 20' below sea level... and I routinely get down to -200' then climb back up + a few hundred feet (or more).

I really need to clean the fins on the coolers. A/C condenser & rad... I'm sure there's a pound or two of brush, bugs & dirt... maybe even some critters.
All these cooling systems make for one BIG heat mass...

Now that it's cooling off I need to get off my ARSE !

Curt

Mudderoy
10-22-2009, 01:46 AM
Well on a long grade in the summer I'll have to shut the A/C off... and on occasion hit the heater... so it's getting close to the red... these are with outside temps. over 100 deg.
Now just out running a trail on a 80 deg. day I will occasionally have it in the 220 to 235 deg. range... I know the 4.0L is designed to run at 210 deg... I just don't like it higher, I'm ooooold school... the cooler the better... I know it should be up to the 210 range... but I live in a very warm climate... also if I leave town I HAVE to climb some grade... my house is about 20' below sea level... and I routinely get down to -200' then climb back up + a few hundred feet (or more).

I really need to clean the fins on the coolers. A/C condenser & rad... I'm sure there's a pound or two of brush, bugs & dirt... maybe even some critters.
All these cooling systems make for one BIG heat mass...

Now that it's cooling off I need to get off my ARSE !

Curt

Yep A/C off and the temp will drop on mine to around 220. A/C off makes a big difference! I took my Jeep to the car wash and cleaned the HELL out of the condenser. I didn't see a change. I was advised to take the AW4 off the radiator and just run it off the aftermarket tranny cooler. I actually have 3, radiator, OEM tranny cooler and an aftermarket tranny cooler. I want to install a tranny temp guage first so I can be sure that moving the AW4 off the radiator isn't causing a problem for the transmission.

I'm also wondering if the transmission doesn't help cool the engine coolant simply as a heat sink!

I don't think the engine running at 2800 rpm is causing it to over heat, it must be the additional heat being generated by the transmission, but I really thought the aftermarket tranny cooler would have caused a drop, but then again it's in front of the A/C condenser and radiator. :sad0147:

d0nt_h8
01-30-2010, 05:12 PM
Yeah mine will still peg the speedo. My coolant gets hot if I drive 65+ for 5 minutes, up around 230. Some have said they think it's too high of a RPM but I don't think so. I run 2800 rpm at 70 mph, and 3000 at 80 mph.


.... I was just talking to a guy at a 4wd store out here last week, and we were discussing this very thing and my rig. He was telling me that with 35s, I should be running 4:88s instead of 4:56s.. and my RPMs @ 70 s/b around 3-3500. I'm not sure I believe that, but.... anyone have a take?:coffee:

4.3LXJ
01-30-2010, 07:53 PM
You can run either. 4.56 is a good ratio if you are using it as a DD, and if you plan on covering the distance you are talking about on your trip next summer. 4.88 is also a viable ratio, but a bit low for a DD. 3000 at 80mph is typical for cars nowadays. In the 60s and 70s it was 3000 at 70 mph. If you are having cooling issues at that speed I would suggest venting your hood, you know messing up that nice fresh paint. :sad0147: At that speed you don't need a fan or anything, so that narrows it down to cooling capacity. If you haven't looked into the radiator, that is where I would start with a flush. After that, you will probably need a new radiator if that doesn't do it.

Mudderoy
01-30-2010, 08:32 PM
Yeah my goal is to get the cowl induction hood on the righ before the summer.

d0nt_h8
01-30-2010, 09:06 PM
You can run either. 4.56 is a good ratio if you are using it as a DD, and if you plan on covering the distance you are talking about on your trip next summer. 4.88 is also a viable ratio, but a bit low for a DD. 3000 at 80mph is typical for cars nowadays. In the 60s and 70s it was 3000 at 70 mph. If you are having cooling issues at that speed I would suggest venting your hood, you know messing up that nice fresh paint. :sad0147: At that speed you don't need a fan or anything, so that narrows it down to cooling capacity. If you haven't looked into the radiator, that is where I would start with a flush. After that, you will probably need a new radiator if that doesn't do it.

Yeah, it's already got vents... The rig has heated up twice, once at approx 30 mph going up miles of steep road, I actually had to stop. The other time I was on the fwy doing around 70.. when i'm on the fwy it stays a bit too warm for my comfort.. and regarding not needing fan speed at fwy speeds, I agree- but that was the exact reason this guy said I should switch to the 4:88s.. It's got an upgraded radiator altho I suppose I could try a flush..

I refuse to tow anything with this rig again until I'm confident on this heating issue.. so, I gotta work this kind out before spring, lol! :D

Mudderoy
01-30-2010, 09:11 PM
Yeah, it's already got vents... The rig has heated up twice, once at approx 30 mph going up miles of steep road, I actually had to stop. The other time I was on the fwy doing around 70.. when i'm on the fwy it stays a bit too warm for my comfort.. and regarding not needing fan speed at fwy speeds, I agree- but that was the exact reason this guy said I should switch to the 4:88s.. It's got an upgraded radiator altho I suppose I could try a flush..

I refuse to tow anything with this rig again until I'm confident on this heating issue.. so, I gotta work this kind out before spring, lol! :D

mine seems to be doing good now. It hasn't been really hot, but if the outside air is in the 70's I stay below the magic 210 mark. 3 core radiator, HD grand cherokee fan clutch, flow kooler water pump, high flow 190 degree thermo and high flow thermostat housing.

d0nt_h8
01-30-2010, 09:16 PM
mine seems to be doing good now. It hasn't been really hot, but if the outside air is in the 70's I stay below the magic 210 mark. 3 core radiator, HD grand cherokee fan clutch, flow kooler water pump, high flow 190 degree thermo and high flow thermostat housing.

...staying below 210 is all I'm really looking for.. Hmmm.. sounds like I may be in for an install or two before spring...

Mudderoy
01-30-2010, 09:20 PM
...staying below 210 is all I'm really looking for.. Hmmm.. sounds like I may be in for an install or two before spring...

I was still going a little past 210 with all those mods. Of course it was 98 to 101 outside air temp at the time.

4.3LXJ
01-30-2010, 09:50 PM
Yeah, it's already got vents... The rig has heated up twice, once at approx 30 mph going up miles of steep road, I actually had to stop. The other time I was on the fwy doing around 70.. when i'm on the fwy it stays a bit too warm for my comfort.. and regarding not needing fan speed at fwy speeds, I agree- but that was the exact reason this guy said I should switch to the 4:88s.. It's got an upgraded radiator altho I suppose I could try a flush..

I refuse to tow anything with this rig again until I'm confident on this heating issue.. so, I gotta work this kind out before spring, lol! :D

I don't think lower gears will help here. With an increase in rpms is also an increase use of energy for the same amount of work due to the energy required to maintain the extra rpms. That translates to increased heat load. Unless you have a water pump impeller wearing out, this would not help. If you did, a high flow water pump might be the ticket. Another thing people don't check too often is debris in the radiator, especially if there is a condenser coil in front of it. It is not only water flow, but air flow too. Something else you can do is put an auxiliary engine oil cooler on which will give you added cooling capacity. Chevy learned this trick in the same vintage engines.

Mudderoy
01-30-2010, 09:57 PM
I don't think lower gears will help here. With an increase in rpms is also an increase use of energy for the same amount of work due to the energy required to maintain the extra rpms. That translates to increased heat load. Unless you have a water pump impeller wearing out, this would not help. If you did, a high flow water pump might be the ticket. Another thing people don't check too often is debris in the radiator, especially if there is a condenser coil in front of it. It is not only water flow, but air flow too. Something else you can do is put an auxiliary engine oil cooler on which will give you added cooling capacity. Chevy learned this trick in the same vintage engines.

ooo aux oil cooler, I might do that. Any recommendations?

Guy at work told me to get the auto transmission out of the engine cooling loop. He thought the heat from the transmission might be causing the running hot situation. I refused to do this until I got a tranny temp gauge first though.

4.3LXJ
01-30-2010, 09:59 PM
ooo aux oil cooler, I might do that. Any recommendations?

I would go to Summit Racing and see what they have. They have a boat load of them. Some have fans in them. I used one from B&M that has a thermostat in it for the fan switch. If you can tap into the front air supply some way, that is a good deal. You can do it with tranny oil too and get that out of the radiator too.

Mudderoy
01-30-2010, 10:10 PM
Oh the gears thing. Keep in mind that I'm running 4.56 gears on 32" tires. I've had people tell me that I'm geared too high and that's why I am running hot. So before you start changing gears I'd look at the other things first.

I mean I'm not changing my gears. Now I do intend on going to larger tires. I'm leaning towards the 35" tires again. That would put me in a perfect range for on or off road with my gears. At least that's what I think. :popcorn:

d0nt_h8
01-31-2010, 06:57 PM
Oh the gears thing. Keep in mind that I'm running 4.56 gears on 32" tires. I've had people tell me that I'm geared too high and that's why I am running hot. So before you start changing gears I'd look at the other things first.

I mean I'm not changing my gears. Now I do intend on going to larger tires. I'm leaning towards the 35" tires again. That would put me in a perfect range for on or off road with my gears. At least that's what I think. :popcorn:

..yeah you're probably right. That's at least the cheaper way to go in starting.. no reason to just throw money at it! LoL...

JENSSEN
06-09-2010, 08:38 PM
Quick one to add, if your engine temp rises and your engine stutters or runs rough, bi-pass your basalst resistor on the drivers side inner fender as its damaged and your running LEAN!

PM me if you have questions on this

d0nt_h8
06-13-2010, 09:59 PM
UPDATE: Just loaded it up and left Friday for Mt. Shasta. Upon leaving the temp slowly crawled upward to the white line just before red. It took about 2 hours, and I was fully loaded for camping & heading into a 30-35mph head wind.

As soon as it hit the line I decided to turn around. Managed to get back home going with the wind, but temp did not go down until I lowered speed significantly- down to 50-55 or so. This doesn't do well for traveling on I-5 where speeds range from 65-70 in many areas.

I understand the fact the engine was working harder on the way up, but IMHO shouldn't the temp on any rig with a non-modded engine pretty much stay stable? I've never had a vehicle- car or truck follow this pattern... Any ideas? I'd love to get this fixed and salvage a vacation!

Mudderoy
06-13-2010, 11:00 PM
UPDATE: Just loaded it up and left Friday for Mt. Shasta. Upon leaving the temp slowly crawled upward to the white line just before red. It took about 2 hours, and I was fully loaded for camping & heading into a 30-35mph head wind.

As soon as it hit the line I decided to turn around. Managed to get back home going with the wind, but temp did not go down until I lowered speed significantly- down to 50-55 or so. This doesn't do well for traveling on I-5 where speeds range from 65-70 in many areas.

I understand the fact the engine was working harder on the way up, but IMHO shouldn't the temp on any rig with a non-modded engine pretty much stay stable? I've never had a vehicle- car or truck follow this pattern... Any ideas? I'd love to get this fixed and salvage a vacation!

Man I wish I knew. I have the same problem with mine. I was hoping that putting some 35's on it would help lower the rpms and stop the engine from generating so much extra heat. Mine runs about midway between 210 and the next line at 70 mph, or 2800 rpm. It was suggested to me that I remove the autotranmission from the radiator. Just run it through the aux coolers (I have two) but before I would try that I would have to have a transmission fluid temp gauge so I could monitor the temp).

Mudderoy
06-14-2010, 09:38 AM
Well I had some over heating excitement this morning.

This was my first morning drive in since adding the cowl induction scoop and regapping the spark plugs to .050. Jeep was running great and the temp was below the magical (just below) 210. I was patting myself on the back as i twas already 80 degrees out. Then about 1/2 through my 45 to 50 minute commute to work I noticed the temp was above 210. Then midway to the next hash mark, then ON the next hash mark. No steam, no smell of coolant, WTF!

As I would speed up from a red light the temp would drop a little. Sitting at the light it would increase to the hash mark. It wasn't going past the hash mark, so I continued to work. About 3 miles from the office I decided to pull into the NAPA parking lot and see what the deal was. I thought it was strange that I didn't feel any loss of power that I would normally when the coolant gets that hot.

Well the aftermarket electric fan wasn't making a good connection so it wasn't running. Basically the mechanical fan was doing all the cooling work. I pressed the connector halves together and the fan came back on. I have tie wraps on it, because it never made very good connection. You'd think for $100 it would be a better connector. There isn't anything wrong with the old one, so I think I'll put it back on. I just replaced it trying to fix the overheating problem. I'll get the non-OEM as a spare.

So I'm thinking either the outside temp of 80, or the big hole I have in the hood was why I didn't notice a loss of power. I guess the engine bay could be much cooler but the coolant temp still hot. At least the heat isn't staying trapped under the hood now.

d0nt_h8
06-14-2010, 12:24 PM
...out of ideas I just took the rig to a shop. They're telling me a weak hose was about to burst, and that I have an issue in the main seal.

..call me crazy, but I'm thinking neither of those directly affect the overheating issue... which tells me the mech. couldn't locate the issue either..

Damn. Would a dealer know any more about this issue? I'm having no luck here.

Mudderoy
06-14-2010, 12:52 PM
...out of ideas I just took the rig to a shop. They're telling me a weak hose was about to burst, and that I have an issue in the main seal.

..call me crazy, but I'm thinking neither of those directly affect the overheating issue... which tells me the mech. couldn't locate the issue either..

Damn. Would a dealer know any more about this issue? I'm having no luck here.

This is what drives me insane about the "experts". It seems all the simple stuff I can do and when it gets to the point I'm willing to pay someone, I can't find anyone that knows more about my vehicle than I do.

You might suggest they do a test for exhaust gases in the coolant.

d0nt_h8
06-14-2010, 02:45 PM
This is what drives me insane about the "experts". It seems all the simple stuff I can do and when it gets to the point I'm willing to pay someone, I can't find anyone that knows more about my vehicle than I do.

You might suggest they do a test for exhaust gases in the coolant.


...you've got that EXACTLY correct Mudd.. and I certainly don't call myself an 'expert' by any stretch...

I feel like with over 2 million XJs on the road there should have been a clear fix to this issue since clearly I'm not the only one who has had their rig be more than a little schizophrenic in the Temp regulation.. :mad:

Oh well, back to the drawing board.. I'll put up more info as it develops...
:hmmmm2:

4.3LXJ
06-14-2010, 05:26 PM
My XJ is the hardest rig I have ever had to cool. That is, after I put in the 4.3 and changed over to the long skinny radiator. Prior to that, you could run it all day in hot weather with the air on towing a heavy load up hill. I am still convinced it is the design of that radiator that is the problem. I am tempted to redo the front cross member and put in a more square radiator and see what happens. I really can't believe what it took before I could run cool.

Mudderoy
06-15-2010, 09:20 AM
My XJ is the hardest rig I have ever had to cool. That is, after I put in the 4.3 and changed over to the long skinny radiator. Prior to that, you could run it all day in hot weather with the air on towing a heavy load up hill. I am still convinced it is the design of that radiator that is the problem. I am tempted to redo the front cross member and put in a more square radiator and see what happens. I really can't believe what it took before I could run cool.

No that is it, I'm convinced. The long skinny radiator is not conductive to being cooled by little fans. Frankly I think that one mechanical and one electric that only comes on sometime is a really bad design. I want to replace both with two 2950 rpm fans, that both come on at the same time.

Since I've been working on this problem for awhile I've noticed something. Once the coolant temp heats up above 210, it never comes back down to 210 unless you turn the engine off. This tells me that my heat creep problem at highway speeds is one problem, but failure to return to the normal operating temp is another.

I have a less than 2 year old all metal 3 core radiator so I have one of two problems. I don't have enough air flow over the fins of the radiator, or I have too many heat generating things in the air flow path.

I don't think my transmission is generating more heat, as in more slipping. If it is then other people have the same problem. I need to be able to remove more heat!

I'd like to try an aluminum 3 core radiator, but I'd be pissed if I spent the money and had the same problem.

I'm torn.

Dual electric fans.
Remove transmission cooling from the radiator
3 core aluminum radiator

The hole in the hood and the cowl induction scoop have helped the low speed temps. Even with the coolant past 210 the engine is still very responsive. I would see a noticeable loss of performance prior. I'm going to put a few more holes in the hood to allow more air flow.

I guess I could remove the transmission from the radiator, see if it makes a difference then get a transmission fluid temp gauge if it does. I noticed this past winter that on the very cold mornings the transmission felt different until it warmed up. So I'm thinking that with the 3 tranmission coolers I have it might be a bit much. Of course I could set it up so I could switch between the radiator and aux coolers or just aux coolers. Hmmmmm.....

d0nt_h8
06-15-2010, 02:24 PM
...ok, diagnostic done... nothing in the coolant, but there is a flow issue. I'm next going to a radiator shop to have the next test done. Anyone know how often water pumps go bad? It's a hi-flow, and a few years old.

I'm wondering if it's in the channels in the block. Whats the best way to clear those?

Mudderoy
06-15-2010, 04:24 PM
...ok, diagnostic done... nothing in the coolant, but there is a flow issue. I'm next going to a radiator shop to have the next test done. Anyone know how often water pumps go bad? It's a hi-flow, and a few years old.

I'm wondering if it's in the channels in the block. Whats the best way to clear those?

Seems like I was replacing mine once every two years, sometimes annually.

Those were for the autopart cheapies, $40 water pumps. I have a Flow Kooler in mine now.

4.3LXJ
06-16-2010, 12:01 PM
Seems like I was replacing mine once every two years, sometimes annually.

Those were for the autopart cheapies, $40 water pumps. I have a Flow Kooler in mine now.

:wow: What's up with that. I have run water pumps forever without any problems until the bearings went out with some astronomical number of miles on them.

Mudderoy
06-16-2010, 12:09 PM
:wow: What's up with that. I have run water pumps forever without any problems until the bearings went out with some astronomical number of miles on them.

I don't know. I was surprised as well. The first one that failed was the factory water pump. The plastic fins disappeared, the engine over heated. The shop said the head was warped so $985 later it was back together and on the road.

Then two months later the radiator failed. That was when it was 3 years old!

4.3LXJ
06-16-2010, 10:30 PM
Plastic, that says it all

d0nt_h8
08-21-2010, 06:18 PM
Ok, here's a which would you choose scenario-

I've got two choices here. In regard to overheating I'm golden as long as I stay in the city and don't hit the fwy for long, lol.. but I got this rig to trail & tow.. not to drive the city streets.. (and btw, those clear tails are history, lol)

Anyway, I'm debating on replacing the entire cooling system, as well as new water pump, etc.. I'm looking at at least a couple of grand... and that's just to stop the heating.... it doesn't answer the real question of whether the rig will actually successfully tow at fwy speeds over passes, etc.. that plus the seals etc. are going to cost me in the area of $4k

OR,

Since I'm running into a heavy cost with those repairs anyway, on top of the fact that I'm looking to add towing power... I'm considering adding a GOLEN stroker engine, new cooling unit, injectors, and all of the other stuff that goes with it. I'm looking at a $10k investment for this option after all is said and done. The Golen unit alone after the extras needed for it to run the way it needs to will be like $8k... chunky to say the least...

However this is really the last piece of my rig which needs to be done.. after this there's almost nothing left to replace, lol.. so I'd be good basically forever except for the normal wear & tear. Essentially a new vehicle.

Thoughts?








Seems like I was replacing mine once every two years, sometimes annually.

Those were for the autopart cheapies, $40 water pumps. I have a Flow Kooler in mine now.

Mudderoy
08-21-2010, 08:27 PM
Ok, here's a which would you choose scenario-

I've got two choices here. In regard to overheating I'm golden as long as I stay in the city and don't hit the fwy for long, lol.. but I got this rig to trail & tow.. not to drive the city streets.. (and btw, those clear tails are history, lol)

Anyway, I'm debating on replacing the entire cooling system, as well as new water pump, etc.. I'm looking at at least a couple of grand... and that's just to stop the heating.... it doesn't answer the real question of whether the rig will actually successfully tow at fwy speeds over passes, etc.. that plus the seals etc. are going to cost me in the area of $4k

OR,

Since I'm running into a heavy cost with those repairs anyway, on top of the fact that I'm looking to add towing power... I'm considering adding a GOLEN stroker engine, new cooling unit, injectors, and all of the other stuff that goes with it. I'm looking at a $10k investment for this option after all is said and done. The Golen unit alone after the extras needed for it to run the way it needs to will be like $8k... chunky to say the least...

However this is really the last piece of my rig which needs to be done.. after this there's almost nothing left to replace, lol.. so I'd be good basically forever except for the normal wear & tear. Essentially a new vehicle.

Thoughts?

I think you have the same problem I do. Runs cool on the streets, hot on the highway. I ran an experiment on the freeway today. A/C on 70 mph 2800 rpm coolant temp well past 210. A/C off 70 mph 2800 rpm efan bypass switch on. Almost got back down to just a hair below the 210, not quite but close.

The electric OEM fan is 530 CFM. I've ordered a 12" 1050 CFM electric fan.
I have read that you need a 2950 CFM electric fan to replace the mechanical fan, if you do towing. I ordered a Taurus 2500/4500 CFM fan from eBay today.

I suspect that my running hot problem will be cured by the 1050 CFM, but certainly should be taken care of with the addition of the Ford Taurus fan.

Now this is after I have replaced everything with bigger (3 core), or more high flow. Everything but the heater core, and I've bypassed that before just to see if it made any difference.

Oh and I have a big a$$ hole in my hood with a cowl induction scoop. (I'm considering mounting an electric fan in the hole to suck out the hot air.)

4.3LXJ
08-21-2010, 10:48 PM
Since you live in Sacramento, I assume you are talking about towing over I80?

For those of you that live elsewhere that is over the Sierras at close to 8000'. It is one long hill with little chance to cool down on the way up.

If you are planning on a 2K investment in cooling what radiator are you getting, Griffin or Be Cool? If you are going to increase the size and load on the engine I personally would go with Griffin. They will custom make your radiator for you in a three core instead of two core. Each core is 1.5" thick by the way. Air flow is critical. I made my own shroud with dual 2000 cfm fans. You could set one up to run all the time and one to come on with the ECM if you want or however you want. But with a winch in front of the radiator air flow will be reduced at freeway speed and the high flow fans will assist. Plus if you do get it warm it will cool down quickly at idle. At low speeds with my fans on in hot weather I get mine down to about 185 even with the 195° tstat. Whatever you do, you will need to also vent your hood significantly to facilitate air flow. Once you start lifting these XJs, the air doesn't get out of the engine compartment as well as a stock rig.

d0nt_h8
08-22-2010, 11:04 AM
Since you live in Sacramento, I assume you are talking about towing over I80?

For those of you that live elsewhere that is over the Sierras at close to 8000'. It is one long hill with little chance to cool down on the way up.

If you are planning on a 2K investment in cooling what radiator are you getting, Griffin or Be Cool? If you are going to increase the size and load on the engine I personally would go with Griffin. They will custom make your radiator for you in a three core instead of two core. Each core is 1.5" thick by the way. Air flow is critical. I made my own shroud with dual 2000 cfm fans. You could set one up to run all the time and one to come on with the ECM if you want or however you want. But with a winch in front of the radiator air flow will be reduced at freeway speed and the high flow fans will assist. Plus if you do get it warm it will cool down quickly at idle. At low speeds with my fans on in hot weather I get mine down to about 185 even with the 195° tstat. Whatever you do, you will need to also vent your hood significantly to facilitate air flow. Once you start lifting these XJs, the air doesn't get out of the engine compartment as well as a stock rig.

Thanks much- that's some good info.. I'm looking at crossing both the sierras (I-80) as well as driving up the 5 and up & over the Mt. Shasta area of Nor-Cal loaded with a trailer, toys and equipment.

I was planning on Be-Cool, but that was only because I was having a problem locating a 3-core.. So that said I'll be looking into Griffin. I'm pretty much decided on the Golen unit, and I'm already in the process of saving the cash for that investment. My hood is already vented, so I should be good on that end. It sounds like you have the heating issue handled with your setup..

XJ4IV
08-27-2010, 10:46 AM
I used to live in that area as well and sadly EVEN though your heat registers HOTTER than here in houston... ours is still hotter, we have weeks if not a whole month and a half straight where heat index is over 105and near 110. its so humid here that the heat will from your engine removes the moisture really fast in the engine bay thus leaving hotter than average air under your hood and no moisture left to cool it off, I have my hood vented
and I have a 3 core radiator and both fans in good working order and I do stil have an autozone pump and t-stat with factory t-stat housing which is about to all get replaced and STILL when I hit the highway for twenty minutes mine hovers the red on the gauge
Im not sure but I think that the tranny cooler is a big ticket to lowering your coolant temps and doing it is pretty easy and fairly cheap I have heard guys running theres parallel to the ground opposite the steering gear box.

Mudderoy
08-27-2010, 11:19 AM
I used to live in that area as well and sadly EVEN though your heat registers HOTTER than here in houston... ours is still hotter, we have weeks if not a whole month and a half straight where heat index is over 105and near 110. its so humid here that the heat will from your engine removes the moisture really fast in the engine bay thus leaving hotter than average air under your hood and no moisture left to cool it off, I have my hood vented
and I have a 3 core radiator and both fans in good working order and I do stil have an autozone pump and t-stat with factory t-stat housing which is about to all get replaced and STILL when I hit the highway for twenty minutes mine hovers the red on the gauge
Im not sure but I think that the tranny cooler is a big ticket to lowering your coolant temps and doing it is pretty easy and fairly cheap I have heard guys running theres parallel to the ground opposite the steering gear box.

I have seen a slight difference moving my tranny cooler from in front of the A/C condenser to the open slots in my bumper. I don't know what it did to the tranny temps though. :o( I have a factory cooler, the radiator and the after market cooler so I suspect it is fine.

Hopefully I'll get the 1107 (1050) CFM electric fan installed this weekend and I'll be able to do a highway test to see what it does to my running hot problem. Taurus fan will be in next week, so hopefully next weekend I'll install it. I need to see if I can get it in there without having to remove anything but the mechanical fan and clutch. I'm hoping I don't have to cut the mechanical fan mount and change the fan belt. I'd like to be able to switch back if I had to.

j&d Greens
01-21-2011, 04:15 AM
Want to stay informed subscribing.

Mudderoy
01-21-2011, 09:17 AM
Want to stay informed subscribing.

Great! BTW, you can subscribe to any thread by using the "Thread tools" drop down menu above. This goes for unsubscribing as well. :thumbsup:

88AMCOMANCHE
04-12-2011, 07:59 PM
Flushed my coolant today finally.........ah the crud that came out,nasty crap*

Mudderoy
07-25-2011, 03:45 PM
Several people have had, including myself in my 3 year quest, with aluminum/plastic single row core radiators.

The factory radiator is aluminum/plastic radiator.

It's still a bit early to say definitively that it has completely resolved my highway heat creep problem, but I have seen a marked improvement. If I had tried this first 3 years ago I would say the problem is solved, but since I've tried so many things I am waiting.

I purchased a Performance Radiator aluminum/plastic radiator with 1 7/16 wide tubes. This radiator's core is nearly as wide as my 3 row all metal CSF radiator.

Xtreme XJ
07-25-2011, 09:29 PM
Several people have had, including myself in my 3 year quest, with aluminum/plastic single row core radiators.

The factory radiator is aluminum/plastic radiator.

It's still a bit early to say definitively that it has completely resolved my highway heat creep problem, but I have seen a marked improvement. If I had tried this first 3 years ago I would say the problem is solved, but since I've tried so many things I am waiting.

I purchased a Performance Radiator aluminum/plastic radiator with 1 7/16 wide tubes. This radiator's core is nearly as wide as my 3 row all metal CSF radiator.

So what was the deciding factor to go with the plastic/aluminium over say the Champion or another all aluminium set up ??
I too have thought about "going back". I also wondered about coating the tanks with some type of mixed up high temp epoxy... it's been so many years I can't remember where mine split at... might give it a little more surface strength ??

Curt

Mudderoy
07-25-2011, 11:12 PM
So what was the deciding factor to go with the plastic/aluminium over say the Champion or another all aluminium set up ??
I too have thought about "going back". I also wondered about coating the tanks with some type of mixed up high temp epoxy... it's been so many years I can't remember where mine split at... might give it a little more surface strength ??

Curt

Well I heard the neck was short on the Champion and some people had problems getting the cap on and off once installed. Also I wanted to spend as few $$$ as possible. After so many disappointments in finding the resolution I didn't want to spend more money and have another failure.

I found out today that I have a leaking head gasket. So this radiator may only be part of the solution.

BigBear
08-13-2011, 02:50 AM
When I bought this Jeep in july it overheated on me the first day.
I found out that someone switched the coolant system radiator to a 91'-up one and he changed the coolant res and heater valve to match. It still had problems overheating the PO said. I bought these items and I'm installing them now I can't wait to drive it, I haven't even put 6 miles on it.

I got an all aluminum 3 core radiator, mr.gasket 180 stat, hi-flow thermostat housing, hi-flo waterpump, coiled radiator hoses, and I switched everything back to stock specs; coolant pressure bottle and sealed radiator.

I have had alot of fun working on this Jeep and it really has no other problems. I got a sweet deal and it was right around the corner fro my house.

Everything you see on it came with it and he even gave me an intire other set of 15" American Racing rims with a non matching full size spare. LOL

This was a search and rescue vehicle up here where I live and they took care of it or atleast tried really hard and did alot of upgrades. I could not walk away from this Jeep when I saw it I had to have it. I love it!

Carves
08-31-2011, 01:03 AM
My XJ is the hardest rig I have ever had to cool. That is, after I put in the 4.3 and changed over to the long skinny radiator. Prior to that, you could run it all day in hot weather with the air on towing a heavy load up hill. I am still convinced it is the design of that radiator that is the problem. I am tempted to redo the front cross member and put in a more square radiator and see what happens. I really can't believe what it took before I could run cool.

Using an old school guestimation of 1sq inch of core for every cubic inch of motor ... The XJs core size is actually fairly close ....

..... except I dont really think the "designers" took into account - the fact its a crossflow radiator, Its a 4cyl engine bay, The right angle bends in the exhaust manifold, Cat converter restrictions, Lesser heat shedding ability of 50/50 in the rad compared to water alone, Motorcycle sized cooling fans that activate too late, blah blah .........

..... heh heh ... yeah - thats a bit of a rant :D

Whilst the cooling ability/efficiency of the "stock" sized rad can be maximised somewhat with some fiddling with core design / materials, Some effective engine bay venting, HD fans, Lower eth-gly amounts, Lower thermostat, Separate tranny cooler, Fluffy dice and other e-bay marvels etc., .....

..... I'm in agreeance that a crossmember change and bigger rad is probably the key for a real increase in cooling ability.


I used to live in that area as well and sadly EVEN though your heat registers HOTTER than here in houston... ours is still hotter, we have weeks if not a whole month and a half straight where heat index is over 105and near 110. its so humid here that the heat will from your engine removes the moisture really fast in the engine bay thus leaving hotter than average air under your hood and no moisture left to cool it off, ............

:thumbsup: ....... Theres a big difference to an areas "climate" .... and a locations daily temps.


My ... stock 4.0l, AW4 XJ ... current setup .... As a comparison to the "traditional" XJ cooling mods ....

2row copper rad
Factory equiv, Rugged Ridge/USMW water pump
Factory equiv, Rugged Ridge/USMW fanclutch
Factory e-fan
Stock lift & tyres
190* t'stat
10/90 eth-gly/water mix
Separate tranny cooler
1/2" hood spacers with a larger firewall seal between the hinges - to create corner VENTS.

30* - 80* ambients, town/low range 4x4 and highway running temp ... 194*

80* - 100+* ambients, town/low range 4x4 and highway running temp ... 198*

Temps vary 2* plus or minus by the scangauge .... with about a 5* increase for hills & heavy towing.

Does the e-fan activate ... yes when the aircon is on .... or I leave the thing idling in the driveway for a halfhour or more .... and it finally hits 215*.

Works excellent for me ... for my driving scenarios ;)

sinat
05-14-2012, 03:52 PM
well hopefully mine doesn't overheat, becuase i don't have a temp guage in mine, or an RPM guage either. I also need to flush my coolent becuse it is a bright rusty orange :bang:

Mudderoy
05-14-2012, 04:03 PM
I don't think I ever posted in here my eventual solution. My problem was the radiator. Perfectly good 3 row CSF radiator. Just won't cool my 4.0 at highway speeds. I switched to a 1 row aluminum and plastic and no running hot on the highway. Now the summer coming up will be my first summer with this radiator, and I may find it's not enough to keep it cool, but after several months and not running hot issues, I'm feeling pretty confident.

XJ408
06-05-2012, 09:59 AM
I have 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee that is overheating and leaking. It is leaking behind the water pump that is my assumption.

Any other possibilities where could come from around that area?

Mudderoy
06-05-2012, 10:09 AM
I have 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee that is overheating and leaking. It is leaking behind the water pump that is my assumption.

Any other possibilities where could come from around that area?

4.0L? If it's leaking from the center line of the engine and back about as far as the water pump, then it's probably coming out of the weep hole.

178

It could also be the thermostat housing, or upper hose, but most of the time it's the water pump.

XJ408
06-05-2012, 10:18 AM
That's was exactly what I was thinking. Thank you.

4.3LXJ
06-05-2012, 11:23 AM
Check your freeze plugs on the block. They commonly rot out eventually, especially if tap water was used in it.

XJ408
06-06-2012, 11:42 AM
Here was the issue. Took the old water pump and it was corroded and rusted. Some idiot put SILICONE for a gasket and plug the heater hole. Found a spring in the bottom hose.

http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy90/punho408_bucket/IMG139.jpg

Mudderoy
06-08-2012, 09:55 AM
Here was the issue. Took the old water pump and it was corroded and rusted. Some idiot put SILICONE for a gasket and plug the heater hole. Found a spring in the bottom hose.

http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy90/punho408_bucket/IMG139.jpg

The spring is there to keep the lower hose from collapsing under load.

89Laredo
06-08-2012, 01:27 PM
Mine runs 215-220 at ~80*amb.
During acceleration it will drop to 210, then go right back to ~215.
Rad/cap, thermostat, thermostat housing, fan clutch is new.
Elec fan doesnt seem to do much.

Water pump doesnt leak or make noise but im going to change it this weekend. If that doesnt do it ill put a 180* thermostat in.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

Carves
06-08-2012, 04:08 PM
Here was the issue. Took the old water pump and it was corroded and rusted. Some idiot put SILICONE for a gasket and plug the heater hole. Found a spring in the bottom hose.

Nasty :mad: ...
Idiot ... is hardly a satisfactory term to use huh ?? ... :D

A spring is fairly common ... Not a real nescessity, but its a help in maintaining hose life/condition, as Mudderoy mentioned.



Mine runs 215-220 at ~80*amb.
During acceleration it will drop to 210, then go right back to ~215.
Rad/cap, thermostat, thermostat housing, fan clutch is new.
Elec fan doesnt seem to do much.

Water pump doesnt leak or make noise but im going to change it this weekend. If that doesnt do it ill put a 180* thermostat in.

Coupla thoughts ...

- Confirm the actual temps you're seeing ... with an IR gun or something.
- New water pump is a good idea as general maintenance ... USMW seems to be ok for a "stock" type pump ... as well as their fanclutches.
- How long has the radiator been in service ?? ... Aluminium ones can gunk up in months ... or less ... with crappy coolant or electrolysis issues ...
Maybe shoot some temps of the lower half of the rad core and compare to the top half .... as that can give an indication of blocked lower tubes.
- 180* t-stat wont hurt ... but its not a "fix" for high running temps in an XJ.

89Laredo
06-08-2012, 06:10 PM
With the gauge sticking straight up and reading 210 at idle the thermostat housing temp was 200* and rising.
I have a USMW fan clutch. Water pump I just bought is new, not reman. From Napa.
Radiator is maybe 6mo old, Coolant was changed at the same time and has had some more "changed" from a couple thermostat changes. It is still bright green.

We will see what the new water pump does.

Brasscatz
06-08-2012, 07:35 PM
Last resort.... start dropping ice cubes in the rad :D

4.3LXJ
06-08-2012, 07:45 PM
Since my Griffin radiator is sick, I am running a stock XJ brass radiator modified for a Chevy right now. With the temp in the 80s here currently, with the air on it has trouble warming up. But I am running 7000 cfm with both fans running. You guys might think about moving more air on those radiators.

Carves
06-09-2012, 07:14 PM
Since my Griffin radiator is sick, I am running a stock XJ brass radiator modified for a Chevy right now. With the temp in the 80s here currently, with the air on it has trouble warming up. But I am running 7000 cfm with both fans running. You guys might think about moving more air on those radiators.


X 2 ...

Maximising the limited potential of the rad core measurements ... is an important factor.


Trouble warming up in 80* ambients ???? .... You got the fans running constantly from start up ??

4.3LXJ
06-10-2012, 12:17 AM
X 2 ...

Maximising the limited potential of the rad core measurements ... is an important factor.


Trouble warming up in 80* ambients ???? .... You got the fans running constantly from start up ??

I do with the AC running. Both of them full bore.

89Laredo
06-17-2012, 11:12 PM
Water pump didnt change anything. Old one looked kinda new.
180* tstat tomorrow.

bigjim350
06-17-2012, 11:17 PM
My problem is the jeep runs really cool at idle and city traffic, but as the speed climbs so does the temp.

Mudderoy
06-18-2012, 08:49 AM
My problem is the jeep runs really cool at idle and city traffic, but as the speed climbs so does the temp.

Jim this was my problem for years. New single "wide" row aluminum/plastic radiator fixed it. Also I believe I have a head gasket leak.

89Laredo
06-18-2012, 08:07 PM
Pretty sure my cooling system isnt building pressure. Ive tried two radiator caps. I dont lose any coolant, my overflow is always at the same level. I can squeeze the top hose shut with it at op temp and running.
Head gasket? :(

nateyz2000
06-19-2012, 11:49 AM
After reading this thread... I thought I would join...
I am running new oem radiator with a 165* tstat, new oem wp, and clutch fan. Highway driving, I operate around 170*, the faster I go, the cooler I run... Stop and go traffic around 210*-230*
Downfall: at slow speeds, and off road, I run up to 230* and I don't like it. I am definately interested in adding an additional fan in front of radiator, and relocating tranny cooler. I guess since I never run my ac, I could remove condenser for optimal air flow... Damn winch...

Nate

4.3LXJ
06-19-2012, 12:20 PM
Nate

It is apparent that what you have is an air flow problem. The XJ with its long skinny radiator only has a fan operating at reduced efficiency due to the clutch most of the time. You might try to do something simple like putting a switch on your efan and run it all the time in town or on the trail or do away with the clutch and substitute a spacer to run that fan at full efficiency.

nateyz2000
06-19-2012, 12:50 PM
Nate

It is apparent that what you have is an air flow problem. The XJ with its long skinny radiator only has a fan operating at reduced efficiency due to the clutch most of the time. You might try to do something simple like putting a switch on your efan and run it all the time in town or on the trail or do away with the clutch and substitute a spacer to run that fan at full efficiency.

I was about to start dropping all this money on bigger radiator, hiflow wp etc... Glad I didn't... Seems like
That doesn't work well for everyone... I need to get air flow... Easy enough...
Nate
<><

89Laredo
06-19-2012, 02:35 PM
Well, Ive learned two things.
1: You HAVE to pull the temperature sensor at the back of the head to get all the air out of the system. I was pulling the temp sensor in the thermostat housing to get air out, and thought I had it all. Pulled the temp sensor in the back of the head and had to add .5-1 qt of antifreeze... Lots of air.

2: If you need to get a radiator cap, buy OEM.
I have three from Autozone and they are all junk. The system was not holding pressure at all with any of them. I stole the OEM cap off of my moms 91 buick and the system is still holding pressure now, 30min after my little ride.

Needle is running right at the "2" of "210" now, no matter what.

nateyz2000
06-19-2012, 03:14 PM
Well, Ive learned two things.
1: You HAVE to pull the temperature sensor at the back of the head to get all the air out of the system. I was pulling the temp sensor in the thermostat housing to get air out, and thought I had it all. Pulled the temp sensor in the back of the head and had to add .5-1 qt of antifreeze... Lots of air.

2: If you need to get a radiator cap, buy OEM.
I have three from Autozone and they are all junk. The system was not holding pressure at all with any of them. I stole the OEM cap off of my moms 91 buick and the system is still holding pressure now, 30min after my little ride.

Needle is running right at the "2" of "210" now, no matter what.

X2

Air in system is a killer... Just don't forget to put the sensor back in... You might fake yourself out into thinking your head is leaking... Like i did... :brickwall:

Nate
<><

Mudderoy
06-19-2012, 03:47 PM
After reading this thread... I thought I would join...
I am running new oem radiator with a 165* tstat, new oem wp, and clutch fan. Highway driving, I operate around 170*, the faster I go, the cooler I run... Stop and go traffic around 210*-230*
Downfall: at slow speeds, and off road, I run up to 230* and I don't like it. I am definately interested in adding an additional fan in front of radiator, and relocating tranny cooler. I guess since I never run my ac, I could remove condenser for optimal air flow... Damn winch...

Nate

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeep_photoshoot068.jpg

Winch, 4 x 6" KC lights. 96 degree air temp, stop and go never above 50ish 1 hour drive home. A hair above 210. Drops back to a hair below 210 when I drive 40ish for 3 to 4 minutes. Oh and that's with the A/C on.

nateyz2000
06-19-2012, 04:59 PM
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeep_photoshoot068.jpg

Winch, 4 x 6" KC lights. 96 degree air temp, stop and go never above 50ish 1 hour drive home. A hair above 210. Drops back to a hair below 210 when I drive 40ish for 3 to 4 minutes. Oh and that's with the A/C on.

Lol... Rub it in...

Nate
<><

Mudderoy
06-20-2012, 02:27 PM
Lol... Rub it in...

Nate
<><

Oh not trying to show you up, just letting you know that the common statement that off road lights and winch cause your XJ to over heat isn't correct, or at least it hasn't been correct for me.

89Laredo
06-22-2012, 09:31 AM
Still around 205 iin 90° amb. :woot:
I'd like it cooler but its still way better than before.

Krew
06-23-2012, 08:56 AM
Thanks, that helped alot.

89Laredo
06-28-2012, 04:28 PM
100° amb 15 min idle.
http://img.tapatalk.com/aee80105-ccb2-efac.jpg

BigBear
07-06-2012, 08:42 PM
Make sure you have 3.5 gallons of coolant mixture otherwise it will overheat no matter what cooling system you have.

With 3.5 gallons you will not need or have burping issues.

dagod16
07-12-2012, 10:56 PM
Mine runs about 205 as well. New water pump, new thermo, new temp sensor for dash, new fan clutch, new belt, and new coolant, pumping the upper hose will get out a lot of air, green fluid in reserve tank and in the system, runs fine. If I stop at a red light with AC on and sit for five minutes it will run right at 210.
and this is around 95 to 100 outside.

I wonder what it will run temp wise in the winter.


I have never let it over heat, mess up the head gasket.

sinat
07-16-2012, 01:10 PM
found the issue with my radiator, it had been cracked, and the person that had it before me had put A LOT of stopleak in it, inside the radiator was solid gunk, and it wasn't letting it run right, well $200 and 2 days in the shop it runs excellent, new replacement radiator with new coolant of course, my 4.0 is running great, better pick up and all. :crazy:

98FloridaXJ
02-07-2013, 08:08 PM
One thing I learned from my XJ is that even though you may think that a cooling component is good on your rig it can still throw off the balance. I had to flush the coolant six plus times, replace every cooling component and even when upgraded to a Grand Cherokee fan clutch it wasn't until I bought a new electric fan that my rig was super happy and ran at 190 running down the road and 200-210 at stop and go. Keeping my 4.0 cool and happy was a big pain in the :ass: .

sinat
02-09-2013, 12:09 AM
mine will be getting flushed... as soon as i get a job. (i hate being unemployed) but im thinking that a system flush will help it even more

bluedragon436
02-09-2013, 12:17 AM
I've replaced all the components in my cooling system.. Now the only issue I still have is the lack of heat during this crap of winter weather... I think I need to try and flush the heater core out a few more times in both directions after using some CLR to break up whatever crap is in there.. I am really hoping to not have no choice but replacing the whole heater core... think I might be doing without heat, so long as it isn't leaking!! LOL I am so glad that I at least have taken care of my overheating issue.. after plenty of money spent on replacing parts...

sinat
02-09-2013, 12:18 AM
yeah, my heater really sucks, only puts decent heat out if its set to recirculate

bluedragon436
02-09-2013, 12:21 AM
yeah, my heater really sucks, only puts decent heat out if its set to recirculate

Yeah... I never really get decent heat... I get enough to keep the windows defrosted and that is about it..

sinat
02-09-2013, 12:23 AM
somedays im lucky to get that, the one day it was 2 degrees on fairmont state university's campus, and the xj did not like that one bit... neither did i

98FloridaXJ
02-09-2013, 07:01 AM
You can usually run water both ways through the heater core to help flush it out. I actually went and used a little bit of compressed air to help flush out my heater core. The previous owner used too much water in the cooling system which gummed it all up. A flush kit will help but disconnect the two heater core hoses and flush water in both directions as well though the core.

sinat
02-09-2013, 04:06 PM
i was told by a mechanic that bleach helps too

98FloridaXJ
02-09-2013, 04:39 PM
i was told by a mechanic that bleach helps too

I wouldn't do it only because the bleach would react too much with all the metals in the cooling system. Best thing to use is either water or a flush designed for cooling systems. Best thing I learned from all my problems is take your time do it right and don't get frustrated if you have to flush your system more than once.

bluedragon436
02-09-2013, 05:02 PM
You can usually run water both ways through the heater core to help flush it out. I actually went and used a little bit of compressed air to help flush out my heater core. The previous owner used too much water in the cooling system which gummed it all up. A flush kit will help but disconnect the two heater core hoses and flush water in both directions as well though the core.

Yeah I am thinking previously before I got it that it had too much water in the cooling system.. I have flushed the heater core both directions before... by blowing compressed air through it, then filling it with some CLR to break up the gunk inside... let it sit for a few mintues... then flush it out with air... then fill with water a few times flushign with air then do it all the other direction... and my heat works nicely for a while... or at least until the heat doesn't get used during the summer months... so I think I might do the flush of the heater core again... then run a full flush of the complete system before the summer time comes.. and especially before it sits for three months when I get deployed!!

98FloridaXJ
02-09-2013, 05:37 PM
Yeah I am thinking previously before I got it that it had too much water in the cooling system.. I have flushed the heater core both directions before... by blowing compressed air through it, then filling it with some CLR to break up the gunk inside... let it sit for a few mintues... then flush it out with air... then fill with water a few times flushign with air then do it all the other direction... and my heat works nicely for a while... or at least until the heat doesn't get used during the summer months... so I think I might do the flush of the heater core again... then run a full flush of the complete system before the summer time comes.. and especially before it sits for three months when I get deployed!!

First off thanks for serving, I had to go component by component and change/upgrade one by one. It took me 6 plus months and 6 plus flushes to get it running in the right temps. I ran regular coolant and water between flushes and towards the last two flushes were everything was looking and running great I started using 50/50 premixed and it helped out and is doing very well. I know it seems funny to pay extra for the premixed stuff but to me it made a big difference and I know its done right.

Carves
02-09-2013, 07:10 PM
First off thanks for serving, I had to go component by component and change/upgrade one by one.

I like to start out from scratch with, all new .... saves wondering what botchups and neglect, the previous owner was responsible for.

With this XJ I spent about 18mnths monitoring temps with what was fitted ...


..... then did what I normally do, within 2mnths of buying a used vehicle.


http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Vehicle%20Bits/CoolingItems.jpg


... haven't had to use the aux fan over-ride switch in anger since Nov 2009 .. :D




I know it seems funny to pay extra for the premixed stuff but to me it made a big difference and I know its done right.

Nope ... I have the same philosphy ... using a pre-mix lets you buy a bottle of top up / replacement ... of the exact same stuff from any two bit car shop ... no matter where you are ..

Only difference is ... I buy a 10 / 90 ratio.

bluedragon436
02-09-2013, 07:30 PM
I used to always buy and mix my own... but I buy pre-mix now as it is easier and faster... not to mention when it comes time/need to top off... it is way easier to just grab a bottle and top it off.. Can't wait to get my heat working properly again... hopefully without having to replace the heater core...

gary63
02-09-2013, 07:32 PM
if you don't buy the 50/50 pre-mix use disteld water don't use soft water but if you hafto you can use reg. tap water. the is no mineroles in disteld so hard water biuld up.

Klaatu55
02-10-2013, 05:04 AM
I really think that the right water makes a big difference. I know the mineral content in the water in my area is so high that I'm pretty sure that I could sit by my tub and pan for gold. If you're getting spots on your dishes,stainless steel,and dingy washed clothes,maybe you should give a couple of bottles of distilled water a try. It certainly couldn't hurt.

Joliet Johnny
02-10-2013, 05:22 AM
I really think that the right water makes a big difference. I know the mineral content in the water in my area is so high that I'm pretty sure that I could sit by my tub and pan for gold. If you're getting spots on your dishes,stainless steel,and dingy washed clothes,maybe you should give a couple of bottles of distilled water a try. It certainly couldn't hurt.

Im with you, so bad hand washing dishes then immediately drying them with a towel is best. I have always used distilled water cause of this. I remember one time having to walk a little over a mile to buy water cause the water pump on my Cadillac failed close to home. And after I move out my parents bought a water softener, argh...

Klaatu55
02-10-2013, 06:20 AM
Good parents are like that.They do everything they can to make sure that their children get the daily requirements of vitamins and minerals.

Joliet Johnny
02-10-2013, 06:26 AM
Good parents are like that.They do everything they can to make sure that their children get the daily requirements of vitamins and minerals.

Not to mention exercise.

gary63
02-10-2013, 09:29 AM
i found the vineger in the dishwasher clean the water spots 1 cup.so i made a homemade flush syston useing vineger and flushed out the cooling systom if clean good and it is cheap and no tixic wast that somone will complain about.

89Laredo
02-13-2013, 12:37 AM
I always thought it was common knowledge that you DO NOT use tap water in a cooling system, until I got on the forums and read now many people do it...
Ive never used anything but distilled water in my jeeps unless it was an emergency.
I buy full strength coolant and distilled water and mix my own.
Full strength and 50/50 are the same price here, So by buying 100% and mixing your own you pretty much end up paying $5 a gallon for 50/50 and end up with two gallons vs buying it $9 a gallon off the shelf.

98FloridaXJ
02-13-2013, 05:10 PM
To be honest with you I've never had a cooloing system as picky as the XJ's. This is my first Jeep I've ever owned and previously owned several Ford Rangers, I've worked on several cooling systems and never had as many problems with a cooling system as I've had with my XJ. To be honest though that is really the only major problem that I've had with my Jeep so I really can't knock it.

4.3LXJ
02-13-2013, 05:40 PM
No one will admit it, but it really is poorly designed

Carves
02-13-2013, 07:20 PM
To be honest with you I've never had a cooloing system as picky as the XJ's. This is my first Jeep I've ever owned and previously owned several Ford Rangers, I've worked on several cooling systems and never had as many problems with a cooling system as I've had with my XJ. To be honest though that is really the only major problem that I've had with my Jeep so I really can't knock it.



No one will admit it, but it really is poorly designed

Designed as a .... only to church on sunday DD in up to 80* ambients ... I think ... ;);)


Cooling system component performance loss ... certainly shows up sooner in an XJ than most vehicles. A bit of performance loss in a rad/fan - in most vehicles doesnt mean much ... but seems to quickly become critical for a 4.0l auto XJ.

...... and even more so in an XJ - modified and belting around in terrain better suited to donkeys, goats and helicopters .. :D

.

sinat
02-14-2013, 08:55 AM
never had an overheat issue.... yet, but mine also has the 5 speed, maybe that makes a difference

prcjeep
02-14-2013, 08:58 AM
Ive had two 4.0's go through mine that would not stay cool... I have the AX15 too

sinat
02-14-2013, 09:00 AM
not sure what tranny mine is, its the 5 speed manual, but as far as i know, it hasnt gotten hot, done have a temp gauge tho

TexanXJ
03-08-2013, 05:13 PM
Well i have a question for everyone. My 97 xj was over heating bad. I pulled the head thinking maybe i had a headgasket problem us i wanted to check on my cylinders, block , an head to check for wear or cracks. Im good. But i noticed one thing in specific. The head gasket had been changed before. My reacement gasket looks the same. But my question is there are a bunch of ports around the cylinders for water travel. The ports line up with the block and head but my had gasket closes all of them off besides to main ports at the back and six down the side were the pushrods come through. All of the rest of the ports from head to block are covered and sealed off by the head gasket. So im cutting down flow of coolant down the sides of my cylinders. Does anyone know if it is om to drill small holes in the head gasket to increase coolant flow down the sides of the cylinder walls to help cool my engine more eficiently. New stat. New radiator. New coolant. Engines flushed. But still over heating. Fans a good as well. Any pointers ive got the head off now and i need a answer before i put it back together. All help is appreciated.

XJ Wheeler
03-08-2013, 08:03 PM
If they ARE for coolant circulation then then the path (gasket) does need to be clear. Personally if you have the option i would return that one and get a new one. If not, i would take a hobby knife to it. I don't think rough edges are a good thing with head gaskets, and using a drill might have that effect.

oderdene
03-08-2013, 09:48 PM
engine block
http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq80/letchcore/IMG_1668.jpg

mopar gasket
http://imgc.classistatic.com/cps/poc/130106/948r1/0566glk_20.jpeg

felpro one
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41vjxk2GeIL._SS500_.jpg

if yours different than them, you have to open passageways, try practice on old one first :D

TexanXJ
03-08-2013, 10:54 PM
No mine is the same. I have the felpro. I was just wondering if the felpro had a design flaw. But if i install the stock gasket i should have no problem with cerculation right?

XJ Wheeler
03-09-2013, 01:40 AM
A pic of both would really help.

oderdene
03-09-2013, 02:02 AM
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/7108/dscf0204.jpg

googled a lot, found this photo. for some reason, manufacturers changed design, I think making a hole is good idea for better cooling.

but, I have no experience in engine rebuild. Hope experienced XJers post here :D

TexanXJ
03-09-2013, 02:12 AM
Wow i like that pic. See thats what im talking about. I just dont know if its safe to do. The damn jeep dealerships wont tell me anything. Im kinda pissed about that.

TexanXJ
03-09-2013, 02:16 AM
Im just gona drill some holes. If it messes up ill just tear it down again. What else do i have to lose besides a gasket and some time.

TexanXJ
03-09-2013, 02:57 AM
It looks like im the test dummy for this problem. Im gona see if it works and ill add the progress to let everyone else know what happens.

Carves
03-09-2013, 05:04 AM
Im just gona drill some holes. If it messes up ill just tear it down again. What else do i have to lose besides a gasket and some time.


Probably better to use a leather punch or something rather than tearing up the gasket material with a drill.

..... and I dunno ... but looking at that last pic oberdene found and posted ... those "extra" holes look pretty wild - bit like they were done at some time by a bucktoothed beaver - rather than factory stamping .. even allowing for usual coolant damage .. :confused: .. ;) .. :D


Just ripped open a FelPro engine kit I have here ... and HG has no water gallery openings except at the ends.

Then I googled my finger tips off ... looking at pics of gaskets to make sure I hadnt given this FelPro kit a big airplane ride for no reason .. :D ... Found plenty of pics showing stains on gaskets where the galleries are ... but none with holes.


So I too .... would be interested in an engine rebuilders thoughts, about the gasket and blocked galleries.

oderdene
03-09-2013, 08:44 AM
First, check the holes on head, are they connected with each other or not. If they not connected and there is space like pinky, you don't need to make holes in headgasket.

I read from link below "they are leftover form the casting process"

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24

4.3LXJ
03-09-2013, 09:58 AM
All I can say is, no wonder the 4.0 runs hot

TexanXJ
03-09-2013, 12:52 PM
See not all holes line up with the head and block. Only the driver side of the block and head line up. Im only punching 1/8 inch holes to allow a lil flow through for some help. But no do not punch all holes because the pasenger side of the head and block do not match up. Im definatly doing some more research before i put it together. So its still a go no go situation. But i will keep it updated. This is some info everyone needs when doing a 4.0 head gasket.

TexanXJ
03-12-2013, 12:14 AM
Well i got my head back todat and shes a beauty. My head was worped so they decked it and cleaned it for me. For you houston guys ive got a good machinest. Only charged me 40$ to do my head. Also my water pump was trashed so i replaced it. Ive got all my parts and ready to put it back together and see what happens. Heres some pics of progress and parts. Oh and im throwing in a pic of my compressor/fan bracket. Damn compressor bolt broke off in it and wont come out so it looks like im buying a new bracket. And its a dealer/junkyard part only.

TexanXJ
03-12-2013, 12:19 AM
Here

TexanXJ
03-12-2013, 01:08 AM
Now thats a burnt up water pump

TexanXJ
03-12-2013, 01:10 AM
Nice painted remachined head

TexanXJ
03-12-2013, 01:13 AM
New and old

TexanXJ
03-12-2013, 01:15 AM
Pics just dont upload right from my phone.

XJ Wheeler
03-12-2013, 01:19 AM
Yeah, that wasn't doing much.

TexanXJ
03-12-2013, 01:22 AM
I bought it this way. Its no wonder they said it had over heating problems.

XJ Wheeler
03-12-2013, 01:27 AM
Yeah, no doubt. Good thing you found it.

4.3LXJ
03-12-2013, 12:04 PM
Sounds like you have it figured out.

TexanXJ
03-13-2013, 03:16 AM
Getting there

dagod16
03-13-2013, 05:19 AM
How many mikes on this jeep? Wish I could help

oderdene
03-13-2013, 09:18 AM
real shiny, good luck bro,

TexanXJ
03-14-2013, 01:43 AM
I got it cranked and it runs good so far. By the way i went with the felpro head gasket non modified just to see what it does. If i still have peoblems ill put a new modified head gasket on.i have A intire new cooling system. I also removed the factory supentene fan and im going with dual electric fans on a toggle switch so they run 24/7 when i want. All should be good. Im gona finish up tomarrow and get it all tuned in where i want. ill be throwin some pics up when im done.

TexanXJ
03-16-2013, 01:56 AM
My engine turned out great. Been driving it everywere. No over hearing issues. I went with the stock felpro head gasket. No mods to the cooling system. I will be switching to a dual electric fan on a toggle switch though.

XJ Wheeler
03-16-2013, 02:54 AM
Great, man. Always nice to hear a successful story.

Brasscatz
03-16-2013, 10:00 AM
My engine turned out great. Been driving it everywere. No over hearing issues. I went with the stock felpro head gasket. No mods to the cooling system. I will be switching to a dual electric fan on a toggle switch though.

I've got to say.... red jeeps just look so awesome offroad!

TexanXJ
03-23-2013, 08:12 PM
Well heres what happen to my jeep 3 days after the engine build. A drunk driver ran a red light and i tboned her. My jeep is totaled. Talk about breaking my heart. Dont worry though ill be buying another xj soon. Wish me luck. Xj's are strong. 50 mph with no seatbelt on and i walked away just fine. A lil sore but im ok :(

4.3LXJ
03-23-2013, 08:20 PM
I hate drunk drivers. Glad you are OK. You gonna buy back the rig for that fresh motor?

oderdene
03-23-2013, 08:37 PM
sorry for that bro, glad to hear you ok and willing to buy another one. Good luck

Brasscatz
03-23-2013, 10:14 PM
Holy F-ing crap dude.... glad you're alright. Wear that seatbelt!!! At least the red paint on that thing protected you...

nateyz2000
03-23-2013, 10:51 PM
Well heres what happen to my jeep 3 days after the engine build. A drunk driver ran a red light and i tboned her. My jeep is totaled. Talk about breaking my heart. Dont worry though ill be buying another xj soon. Wish me luck. Xj's are strong. 50 mph with no seatbelt on and i walked away just fine. A lil sore but im ok :(

That sucks... I wonder how my bumper would stand up to that...

TexanXJ
03-23-2013, 11:48 PM
Yea im ok. No im not buying it back motor and tranny are trashed . The crank got knocked back about 2 inches and the block is cracked. Plus the tranny was already whore out. Transfer case was grinding when i switched the drive axle is bent and the body is tweaked horribly. Its straight totaled. So im gona call it a loss. But yea thats my third xj. Time for the fourth one. This time im gona drop some money on a nice one so the only money i drop into it is customization not repairs. But thank you to everyone on xj talk. Ill be back soon with a newer and nicer xj to play with and build.

XJ Wheeler
03-24-2013, 01:54 PM
Wow, Ryan. That REALLY sucks. People are never gonna learn i guess. I'll keep my eyes open for one if you want? Let me know your criteria.

bluedragon436
03-24-2013, 02:58 PM
Sorry to see that happen right after taking care of that engine... Glad to hear you are ok though, and look forward to seeing the new XJ to the family!!

TexanXJ
03-24-2013, 02:59 PM
I gota go make some money first. But im lookin for a 97 or newer xj 4x4. Preferably a Standard trans. Low miles. Straight body no rust. Preferably no mods but hey if there good mods than that saves me money. like a grandma grandpa xj lol. Then ill make it a monster.

Mudderoy
03-24-2013, 03:43 PM
My engine turned out great. Been driving it everywere. No over hearing issues. I went with the stock felpro head gasket. No mods to the cooling system. I will be switching to a dual electric fan on a toggle switch though.

When it's stock the marginal cooling system is fine most of the time. Add larger tires, bumpers winch, etc... well...

Mudderoy
03-24-2013, 03:46 PM
I gota go make some money first. But im lookin for a 97 or newer xj 4x4. Preferably a Standard trans. Low miles. Straight body no rust. Preferably no mods but hey if there good mods than that saves me money. like a grandma grandpa xj lol. Then ill make it a monster.

Hey it's a fixer upper!

http://images.craigslist.org/3E33M83H75N15Ka5Had3nd0a3542f2bbb1f9d.jpg

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/3699435164.html

TexanXJ
03-24-2013, 08:15 PM
Ill pass i need a daily driver/project toy

denverd1
03-27-2013, 03:51 PM
Muddy, I was noticing in the got lights? thread, that prolly have too much crap up there in front of your grille. How was the temp before you had those grande lights up there blocking air flow?

brentc
04-03-2013, 09:13 PM
Holy crap texanxj glad to hear you walked away and sorry about your jeep. Im kind of late to the thread but I had a problem running hot so i overhauled the cooling system with
CSF 3-row radiator
Hesco high flow pump
High flow t-stat housing
High flow mr. gasket Tstat (dont recommend)
ZJ fan clutch
Well after all these mods i wasnt running hot enough in the summer and in the winter the CEL would come on cause the temp guage wouldnt move ended up blowing the motor from im assuming not enough lubricant "oil" flowing. After installing a used motor i put everything back but switched to a stant tstat the temps are right where they should be.
BTW: 99xj 4.0L,aw4, 3.55s, 4.5" lift, 32" tires

Brasscatz
04-08-2013, 09:44 PM
I recharged my a/c this weekend and got to use it today! MAN it was nice to have the window rolled up for once! Buuuuuut..... I seem to be getting temps climbing all the way to 232* with the a/c running whether I'm at highway speeds or sitting still. I turn the a/c off (leaving the fan on with my bypass switch) and it goes back to the previous temps 208*-215*. Any thoughts?

4.3LXJ
04-08-2013, 10:34 PM
IIRC you are getting real cool AC, which means you are getting a hot condenser putting hot air on the radiator. Might need to give it some attention.

Brasscatz
04-08-2013, 11:21 PM
IIRC you are getting real cool AC, which means you are getting a hot condenser putting hot air on the radiator. Might need to give it some attention.

Thanks Steve. So by giving it some attention, do you mean look into replacing the condenser?

nateyz2000
04-08-2013, 11:27 PM
Yeah mine will still peg the speedo. My coolant gets hot if I drive 65+ for 5 minutes, up around 230. Some have said they think it's too high of a RPM but I don't think so. I run 2800 rpm at 70 mph, and 3000 at 80 mph.

I don't dare drive that fast .... Lol

dagod16
04-09-2013, 06:40 AM
if your at 230 degrees then something isnt working. if you have high miles then start changing stuuf. get your water pump...thermostat....thermo sensor.....radiator. get it all replaced. especially if its more than ten years old. i di all of this etuff wnd i run 195 on the nose even at 80 mph.you better stop running so hot or your going to ruin the head gasket or crack the head. get it done
just spend the money and replace those part.

Brasscatz
04-09-2013, 07:49 AM
90% of the cooling system is new save for the radiator, heater core and fans. Temps are fine without a/c running. I think Steve is right though. The condenser is that long radiator like thing in front of the radiator, and with the way your a/c system works, the condenser gets very hot. Since it's on front of the radiator, all the hot air from the condenser is going straight into the radiator. I never even thought of that. I just didn't know if there was something I could do before replacing the condenser. I'd hate to lose all that refrigerant I just put in :D

Matt had suggested a few days ago that I replace the fan clutch. Well I finally got around to testing it last night. IIRC, the fan should have resistance when the motor is hot, and spin very freely when the engine is cold. Well, it didn't spin freely after my Jeep had been sitting for 7 hours and was cold. So I'm going to get a new fan clutch before I buy a new radiator or anything else.

4.3LXJ
04-09-2013, 09:49 AM
Thanks Steve. So by giving it some attention, do you mean look into replacing the condenser?

No, I mean make sure your cooling system is up for the heat. In your triple digit temps there you will be putting 130° on the radiator which will cause issues with a system that is marginal. Also, since you added to an already functioning system, it may be over charged and working the engine harder than it needs to be in addition to the extra heat off the condenser that would be above normal. Does the 97 have the TSV block in front of the firewall. Looks like a big brass block

4.3LXJ
04-09-2013, 09:53 AM
90% of the cooling system is new save for the radiator, heater core and fans. Temps are fine without a/c running. I think Steve is right though. The condenser is that long radiator like thing in front of the radiator, and with the way your a/c system works, the condenser gets very hot. Since it's on front of the radiator, all the hot air from the condenser is going straight into the radiator. I never even thought of that. I just didn't know if there was something I could do before replacing the condenser. I'd hate to lose all that refrigerant I just put in :D

Matt had suggested a few days ago that I replace the fan clutch. Well I finally got around to testing it last night. IIRC, the fan should have resistance when the motor is hot, and spin very freely when the engine is cold. Well, it didn't spin freely after my Jeep had been sitting for 7 hours and was cold. So I'm going to get a new fan clutch before I buy a new radiator or anything else.

Sounds like it is time to replace the clutch. If you do replace the radiator, you can do so without disturbing your refrigerant. It should slip right out.

Brasscatz
04-09-2013, 11:19 AM
No, I mean make sure your cooling system is up for the heat. In your triple digit temps there you will be putting 130° on the radiator which will cause issues with a system that is marginal. Also, since you added to an already functioning system, it may be over charged and working the engine harder than it needs to be in addition to the extra heat off the condenser that would be above normal. Does the 97 have the TSV block in front of the firewall. Looks like a big brass block

The a/c system was almost completely empty, but it's possible I put more in than needed.
I just looked and did not see any brass blocks at my firewall.


Sounds like it is time to replace the clutch. If you do replace the radiator, you can do so without disturbing your refrigerant. It should slip right out.

Clutch for sure. I'll do that first before the radiator since it's cheaper. I was meaning I'd lose refrigerant if I replaced the condenser.

XJ Wheeler
04-09-2013, 11:54 PM
The fan clutch is suppose to have a little resistance when cold, like say if you spin it fast as possible it should spin maybe 1-2 times. From what you've told me i bet its the radiator. Was it still overheating before you started using the air conditioning this year? Sounds like it overheats going slow or fast? If so that takes airflow out of the mix. Now a coolant flow problem would cause that.

Brasscatz
04-10-2013, 12:05 AM
The fan clutch is suppose to have a little resistance when cold, like say if you spin it fast as possible it should spin maybe 1-2 times. From what you've told me i bet its the radiator. Was it still overheating before you started using the air conditioning this year? Sounds like it overheats going slow or fast? If so that takes airflow out of the mix. Now a coolant flow problem would cause that.

lol, I barely got 1/8 turn if I had to estimate! It had been behaving after I installed the aux fan bypass. With the a/c on, it does it at all speeds. If I leave the a/c off, I'm fine :( I do agree that my radiator probably needs replacing soon. I'm hoping that the fan clutch will fix the problem for now, and I can do the radiator later. I hope! lol

bigjim350
04-10-2013, 12:09 AM
Don't worry about how much resistance your fan has while cold. What is more important is how much it has while hot. My clutch is new and will only move about a inch or two if you spin it while cold, less when its hot. My old one would have resistance while cold but free spin easy while hot, therefore it was bad.

Sent from my nerdy smartphone

XjJeepacorn
04-10-2013, 12:34 AM
Hey it's a fixer upper!

http://images.craigslist.org/3E33M83H75N15Ka5Had3nd0a3542f2bbb1f9d.jpg

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/3699435164.html

I love the doorless mod that guy did it looks sharp!

bluedragon436
04-10-2013, 12:38 PM
Hey it's a fixer upper!

http://images.craigslist.org/3E33M83H75N15Ka5Had3nd0a3542f2bbb1f9d.jpg

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/3699435164.html

Heck go pick up the rims off of it, and sell em'... that might help ya get something good... Or even better wrap them up in some beefy mud tires and then install them on a Jeep... just for the heck of it... LOL

XJ Wheeler
04-10-2013, 07:22 PM
lol, I barely got 1/8 turn if I had to estimate! It had been behaving after I installed the aux fan bypass. With the a/c on, it does it at all speeds. If I leave the a/c off, I'm fine :( I do agree that my radiator probably needs replacing soon. I'm hoping that the fan clutch will fix the problem for now, and I can do the radiator later. I hope! lol

Sorry bud, i don't know what i was thinking. The clutch shouldn't turn much like you described. You have the right to call me a dingbat... but only ONCE! :D

Brasscatz
04-10-2013, 07:31 PM
Sorry bud, i don't know what i was thinking. The clutch shouldn't turn much like you described. You have the right to call me a dingbat... but only ONCE! :D

rofl not at all bro! I mean dingbat, I mean bro! LOLOLOL!!! It's all good man :D

XJ Wheeler
04-10-2013, 07:36 PM
rofl not at all bro! I mean dingbat, I mean bro! LOLOLOL!!! It's all good man :D

That was your one. :cop:

Carves
04-10-2013, 07:59 PM
oyyyy cantab .... delete this ... :rotfl2:

4.3LXJ
04-10-2013, 08:12 PM
I will change it to all caps so everyone will hear :D

Brasscatz
04-11-2013, 08:01 PM
That was your one. :cop:

I honestly didn't see anything to call you a dingbat for, I was just Joshin' with ya anyways ;)

Brasscatz
04-11-2013, 08:02 PM
So.... I'm looking at fan clutches and here's one I'm thinking about getting. I'm not going with the ZJ clutch because I need to keep my gas mileage as good as possible. This one says "reverse rotation"... is that correct? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_fan-clutch--6-thermal-imperial_19230077-p?navigationPath=L1*14922|L2*15022|L3*15944#

4.3LXJ
04-11-2013, 08:28 PM
You will need to figure out if you have standard or reverse rotation on your fan pulley. I don't think you do. That applies to water pumps, which is where the ZJ fan is mounted, not like the XJ with the fan off to the side

Brasscatz
04-11-2013, 09:19 PM
You will need to figure out if you have standard or reverse rotation on your fan pulley. I don't think you do. That applies to water pumps, which is where the ZJ fan is mounted, not like the XJ with the fan off to the side

According to the fan blades, the fan pulls air through the radiator while spinning counter-clockwise if I'm standing in front of the Jeep facing it. Is that standard or reverse rotation?

Carves
04-11-2013, 10:10 PM
Reverse rotation is when the back of the belt, instead of the ribs, runs on a pulley ... or so I've been led to believe.

4.3LXJ
04-11-2013, 10:59 PM
Standard rotation is clockwise, reverse is counterclockwise

XJ Wheeler
04-12-2013, 03:54 PM
I honestly didn't see anything to call you a DINGBAT for, I was just Joshin' with ya anyways ;)

I'm pretty sure i said once!

Lol same here, bro ;)

Mudderoy
04-16-2013, 12:18 PM
So.... I'm looking at fan clutches and here's one I'm thinking about getting. I'm not going with the ZJ clutch because I need to keep my gas mileage as good as possible. This one says "reverse rotation"... is that correct? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_fan-clutch--6-thermal-imperial_19230077-p?navigationPath=L1*14922|L2*15022|L3*15944#


Check out this article. There is a part number for the right clutch fan, at least it was for my 1998.... :link: (http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=1587)

Infidel Edition
04-16-2013, 03:31 PM
Hey... NOB question on the temp sensor.
Mine didn't work until I plugged in the sensor on the radiator.
So that's radiator temps... Right?

Isn't there an engine temp sensor? And is there a gauge that I can plug that into?
...or would it be as effective to pick up an oil gauge kit~ assuming that my engine is effectively running at the same temp as the oil?

thinking something like this kit from Summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-275/media/images

Thoughts?

89Laredo
04-16-2013, 03:41 PM
87-~96.5 use seperate senders for ecu and gauge.
One in the back of the head for the gauge, one in middle of the block under exhaust manifold (87-90) or thermostat neck (91+) for the ecu.


I used a USMW HD fan clutch on mine, and it runs ~190 most of the time. (right now its running a little warm, still have radiator covered for winter)
USMW 22148, omix-ada 17105.03
http://emeraldgreen97.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_20120401_133906.jpg

4.3LXJ
04-16-2013, 04:38 PM
Hey... NOB question on the temp sensor.
Mine didn't work until I plugged in the sensor on the radiator.
So that's radiator temps... Right?

Isn't there an engine temp sensor? And is there a gauge that I can plug that into?
...or would it be as effective to pick up an oil gauge kit~ assuming that my engine is effectively running at the same temp as the oil?

thinking something like this kit from Summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-275/media/images

Thoughts?

The Renix era fan would come on with radiator temps. Later it was computerized.

Infidel Edition
04-16-2013, 04:43 PM
The Renix era fan would come on with radiator temps. Later it was computerized.

I'm looking at the gauge on the dash...
It didn't work until I plugged the radiator sensor in.
... and I haven't gotten it hot enough to see if the electric fan even kicks in...

So, my temps hit the 210 +/-
but I was thinking that was the radiator tems as that's the sensor I had to plug in to make the gauge work.
** the plug was right next to the sensor plug so it isn't like I did a redneck wiring job to change that out.

89Laredo
04-16-2013, 04:46 PM
I forgot about that one. Renix efan is not computer controlled, the switch is on the drivers side of the radiator. It is not a sender, it is a switch, does nothing but turn the fan on and off.
Makes it really easy to wire a switch in to turn it on whenever.

Infidel Edition
04-16-2013, 04:48 PM
87-~96.5 use seperate senders for ecu and gauge.
One in the back of the head for the gauge, one in middle of the block under exhaust manifold (87-90) or thermostat neck (91+) for the ecu.

I'm not sure I have a sensor on the back of the head?
Do you have a pic?...
...Mine is an 89 Laredo as well

Infidel Edition
04-16-2013, 04:51 PM
I forgot about that one. Renix efan is not computer controlled, the switch is on the drivers side of the radiator. It is not a sender, it is a switch, does nothing but turn the fan on and off.
Makes it really easy to wire a switch in to turn it on whenever.

So I could put a lower temp sender in... and the fan would kick in at a lower temp?
Or do you mean like a toggle switch on the dash?

89Laredo
04-16-2013, 05:57 PM
I'm not sure I have a sensor on the back of the head?
Do you have a pic?...
...Mine is an 89 Laredo as well
This runs the gauge.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics/Sensor_Coolant_Temp_2.jpg


So I could put a lower temp sender in... and the fan would kick in at a lower temp?
Or do you mean like a toggle switch on the dash?
5-90 posted a part number somewhere that you could get a switch to kick it on at a lower temp. I was talking about just adding a switch on the dash to turn it on at any time.


BTW, dont totally trust the dash gauge, verify it. According to my mt2500 this is 195*

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/17/gygumyhu.jpg

Infidel Edition
04-16-2013, 09:03 PM
This runs the gauge.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics/Sensor_Coolant_Temp_2.jpg


5-90 posted a part number somewhere that you could get a switch to kick it on at a lower temp. I was talking about just adding a switch on the dash to turn it on at any time.


BTW, dont totally trust the dash gauge, verify it. According to my mt2500 this is 195*

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/17/gygumyhu.jpg


Thanks... I'm gonna have to add it to my project list.
But it's gonna be a bit down the list as there's some safety things and some electrical in front

Infidel Edition
04-16-2013, 09:09 PM
OK. So I thought I had the electric fan plugged into the wrong plug ~ and played around with a couple plugs next to the radiator.

When I unplug the sensor on the driver's side, I no longer get any readings on my gauge?
When I plug that back into the harness... I get temp readings again.
???

I think that the gauge on the dash is my radiator temps.

XJ408
04-19-2013, 11:02 PM
Have a leak coming from the radiator cap. Is it possible that the radiator cap is going bad?

bluedragon436
04-19-2013, 11:12 PM
It is possible the seal on the cap is bad... that was an issue I had mine...

Brasscatz
04-19-2013, 11:13 PM
Have a leak coming from the radiator cap. Is it possible that the radiator cap is going bad?

Yes, it is very possible. You can pick up a new one at the auto parts store for under $10 though

nateyz2000
04-21-2013, 06:29 PM
I am getting frustrated with mine... Doesn't "overheat". But runs hotter on the trails than I like... Tranny boils over too... Maybe separate cooling systems? Radiator/ tranny cooler? Wire up electric fan to switch?

bluedragon436
04-21-2013, 06:37 PM
Yeah I would def look into an aftermarket tranny cooler and oil cooler...

nateyz2000
04-21-2013, 06:40 PM
Yeah I would def look into an aftermarket tranny cooler and oil cooler...

Already have a new 2 row radiator and a b&m supercooler

bluedragon436
04-21-2013, 06:53 PM
Oh ok, that makes sense... I wonder then why you have an issue with it boiling over... have you changed the tranny fluid/filter??

nateyz2000
04-21-2013, 07:02 PM
Oh ok, that makes sense... I wonder then why you have an issue with it boiling over... have you changed the tranny fluid/filter??

Not yet, that's next

XJ Wheeler
04-21-2013, 09:16 PM
I wonder if you have a blockage somewhere.

nateyz2000
04-21-2013, 09:45 PM
I wonder if you have a blockage somewhere.

I don't know... I will try doing a fluid/filter change and see if that helps

TexanXJ
04-22-2013, 12:07 AM
Im back with a new toy but it needs some tender love and care

TexanXJ
04-22-2013, 12:21 AM
It has a ford possi rear end. Dana 40 front with lockers. It has 4.88 gears. it has a 8 inch lift on 35s but im gona tweak it to tuck 37"s. body and interior are clean for a 95 model. It needs some light mechanic work but im gona go through the whole rig and make it right. I only paid 1100$ for it.

XJ Wheeler
04-22-2013, 04:58 AM
Nice score! Lots of goodies on it too. Hopefully this one turns out a little less smashed.

4.3LXJ
04-22-2013, 10:12 AM
Awesome price for that

TexanXJ
04-22-2013, 02:23 PM
Yea no more smashing.

Brasscatz
04-22-2013, 07:55 PM
It has a ford possi rear end. Dana 40 front with lockers. It has 4.88 gears. it has a 8 inch lift on 35s but im gona tweak it to tuck 37"s. body and interior are clean for a 95 model. It needs some light mechanic work but im gona go through the whole rig and make it right. I only paid 1100$ for it.

HOLY CRAP!!!! How did you get that deal???

TexanXJ
04-28-2013, 02:39 AM
Trailering it home today in the nastiest storm yet of the year talk about fun. It flooded its ass off today and we towed it using a bagged and body dropped dully.

TexanXJ
04-28-2013, 02:45 AM
Its sitting at my house now :) oh and i got it off craigslist 5 minutes after it posted in houston texas for 1500$. The guy lowered it himself to 1100$ so i stole it. But it needs about 500-1000$ in repair before its on the road. Then about 5k in my customization and its done. But yea is is saves about 6k in drivetrane and suspension on a stock xj. Its pre built for rocks but im bringin it to a all purpose dailey driver/toy :) wish me luck and follow my threads houston

TexanXJ
04-29-2013, 07:00 PM
Hey its for sale in houston. I need a dailey driver no issues like now. A 4.88 gear is to much for the highway. My budy has a perfect mustang gt that hea basically giving me for 1500

Brasscatz
04-29-2013, 07:12 PM
If only I had a place to put it.........

TexanXJ
04-30-2013, 12:33 AM
I wish i had money for the mustang. I really really dont want to sale it.

BeardedBassGuy
07-24-2013, 01:47 PM
Scratching my head at this...

Engine temp runs fine when moving (about 210)... but heats up pretty quickly at idle/parked/not moving fast(very close to red) .

Electric fan works (I did the ac check) but isn't coming on.

I changed the temp sensor (old one looked brand new) and the fan still won't come on when it heats up.

PCM maybe? I hope not.. but I won't buy one just for that.

Probably just going to wire in a manual switch.

any other ideas?

4.3LXJ
07-24-2013, 02:02 PM
Check your fan relay and your mechanical fan clutch

Mudderoy
07-24-2013, 02:21 PM
Scratching my head at this...

Engine temp runs fine when moving (about 210)... but heats up pretty quickly at idle/parked/not moving fast(very close to red) .

Electric fan works (I did the ac check) but isn't coming on.

I changed the temp sensor (old one looked brand new) and the fan still won't come on when it heats up.

PCM maybe? I hope not.. but I won't buy one just for that.

Probably just going to wire in a manual switch.

any other ideas?

I suspect it's the mechanical fan clutch. Make sure you have a good shroud on there as well. Electric fan should come on with the A/C compressor. If the A/C compressor won't kick on the electric fan won't either, at least not until the coolant temp hits about 220.

XJ Wheeler
07-24-2013, 02:54 PM
On the electric fan, i agree with the relay and which sensor did you change? One sends to the computer the other is for the gauge/idiot light.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

BeardedBassGuy
07-24-2013, 03:18 PM
Sorry, I forgot to mention I changed the relay. It was the first thing I changed a week ago.

The electric fan comes on when you turn on the ac, but doesn't come on any other time. My ac doesn't work (blow cold) currently, so I never have it on.

The sensor I changed was the one in the housing right up front.

Mudderoy
07-24-2013, 03:25 PM
Sorry, I forgot to mention I changed the relay. It was the first thing I changed a week ago.

The electric fan comes on when you turn on the ac, but doesn't come on any other time. My ac doesn't work (blow cold) currently, so I never have it on.

The sensor I changed was the one in the housing right up front.

I don't think it would heat up that quickly with just the electric fan not working. You may have other issues, but I bet the clutch for the mechanical fan isn't working very well. You get, I'll guess, 80% of your air flow sitting still from the mechanical fan.

BeardedBassGuy
07-24-2013, 03:43 PM
Hmm ok, I just ran out there (at work now) and did the "quick test" i.e. I spun it. It spins, but is tight, doesn't even make half a revolution. That seems like the clutch is good, right?

I will say the only times I have seen it heat up like that are on the really hot days we have been having, when I have been driving in town, and making frequent stops/idles.

Mudderoy
07-24-2013, 03:48 PM
Hmm ok, I just ran out there (at work now) and did the "quick test" i.e. I spun it. It spins, but is tight, doesn't even make half a revolution. That seems like the clutch is good, right?

I will say the only times I have seen it heat up like that are on the really hot days we have been having, when I have been driving in town, and making frequent stops/idles.

Yeah that does sound good, hmmm, I can't remember. You may have to check it when it's hot. How old is it? I mean $40 and 30 minutes of your time to change it...

Yep, Matt just confirmed it for me. Check it after the engine is hot.

BeardedBassGuy
07-24-2013, 03:53 PM
OK, cool, thanks. I will check it after my drive home.

BeardedBassGuy
07-24-2013, 07:55 PM
Ok, well...

Got home, spun the fan... no change. Got a quote for $35 from my local parts store for the new clutch though.

Money is super tight since my wife was laid off, but I hope to change it soon. Even if it's not it, it's a no-loss part.

Other than that, I am out of ideas, other than manual wiring the electric fan, and flushing the coolant (which looks good).

4.3LXJ
07-24-2013, 08:05 PM
It is easy enough to wire a switch into the exciter wire for the fan relay.

BeardedBassGuy
07-29-2013, 08:55 PM
Ok just a little recap and update...Need some more opinions.

Things I have changed, in this order...

1)Fan Relay.
2)Coolant Temp sensor in the TSTAT housing
3)Fan clutch
4)thermostat

I am STILL running hot at idle. Get almost to the red.
However, a breakthrough! The aux fan kicks on by itself now! It kicked in at the line just before red.

But I still can't tell if the tstat is opening. I never hear it cycle... and I assume (correct me if I am wrong) that the top radiator hose would pressure up if it was cycling. I can squeeze it easily no matter the temp. I guess it's possible I got a bad Tstat, but really?

Any ideas?

XjJeepacorn
07-29-2013, 08:59 PM
You're sure your water pump is working? They can be tricky to diagnose some times. Check the pulley for play does it make any noise?

XjJeepacorn
07-29-2013, 09:01 PM
Oh, just at idol eh? Sorry I'm entertaining my self while eating ice cream at dq lol

BeardedBassGuy
07-29-2013, 09:03 PM
Dipped cone? lol

And I'm just confused on this whole deal. I'm glad the aux fan started working though, maybe it wont burn it up now.

Brasscatz
07-29-2013, 09:07 PM
Hmm... the top hose would certainly be hot enough where you wouldn't WANT to squeeze it. Have you checked the fins on your radiator to make sure they aren't clogged with bugs and junk? It may be clogged just enough where, at idle, not enough air gets pulled through the radiator. Now, as for the t-stat, I would suggest removing it ONLY to test your theory and to see how hot it gets. If it doesn't overheat, then you got a start. Also, are you sure the t-stat is in the right way? I honestly don't remember if there's enough room in the t-stat housing to have it flipped the wrong way or not. Worth a try man. But I do suggest not running around full time without a t-stat. They're there for a reason.

Oh, I would keep using water only until you get it solved... that way you don't waste money on buying antifreeze constantly.

XjJeepacorn
07-29-2013, 09:08 PM
Dipped cone? lol

And I'm just confused on this whole deal. I'm glad the aux fan started working though, maybe it wont burn it up now.

Uh huh lol

XjJeepacorn
07-29-2013, 09:13 PM
Dipped cone? lol

And I'm just confused on this whole deal. I'm glad the aux fan started working though, maybe it wont burn it up now.

Uh huh lol

XjJeepacorn
07-29-2013, 09:14 PM
Hmm... the top hose would certainly be hot enough where you wouldn't WANT to squeeze it. Have you checked the fins on your radiator to make sure they aren't clogged with bugs and junk? It may be clogged just enough where, at idle, not enough air gets pulled through the radiator. Now, as for the t-stat, I would suggest removing it ONLY to test your theory and to see how hot it gets. If it doesn't overheat, then you got a start. Also, are you sure the t-stat is in the right way? I honestly don't remember if there's enough room in the t-stat housing to have it flipped the wrong way or not. Worth a try man. But I do suggest not running around full time without a t-stat. They're there for a reason.

Oh, I would keep using water only until you get it solved... that way you don't waste money on buying antifreeze constantly.

Or kill kittys

4.3LXJ
07-29-2013, 09:45 PM
If the top hose is soft, the question is if your radiator cap holds pressure. A soft hose doesn't really tell you anything accept it is soft, which can be relative since you are only dealing with one atmosphere of pressure anyway. So far you have not given any evidence coolant is circulating, which could be two things. Tstat, a common one and the other is water pump vanes wearing out, which you cannot tell unless you pull it

sbspence
09-05-2014, 10:00 PM
Has anyone tried Hy-per coolant additive or Redline Water wetter to reduce engine temp? Not trying to hijack thread here just wondering if would help out hot running XJs?? Mine hugs 210 constantly with mostly new parts and coolant.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4.3LXJ
09-05-2014, 10:12 PM
I have tried water wetter and found it works well when the system is doing what it is supposed to. But if it is going to overheat, it won't stop it

sbspence
09-05-2014, 10:15 PM
Gotcha thanks. I'm going to try it I think. Mine works within parameters of normal, but has the #3 injector vapor lock issue when outside temps are above 80 and I run the AC. When I restart it slobbers around for a minute or two before going away. It already had the Jeep TSB insulator fix. 😡


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

autotech98
09-06-2014, 08:31 PM
dumb question but have you changed the coolant temp sensor? just wondering if you are getting an accurate reading.

sbspence
09-06-2014, 09:23 PM
No ,but I'm sure it's too hot on the restart and causing the heat soak with the injector. If I pop the hood and leave it wide open after shut down it doesn't do the shudder on restart. Sometimes it'll throw a CEL when it's running rough too. The code says #3 injector issue. New water pump, new electric fan, Mopar insulators on injector, even put sone aluminum insulation between exhaust and fuel rail. System flushed and new coolant along with stat. All within last six mo. Still having the miss on hot restarts with the AC on. Thinking about hood vents or exhaust wrap. Seems to me that if the electric fan would stay running for am extra 30-60 seconds after shutdown when AC was on that it might solve the issue. I know other vehicles that do that. That would be beyond my scope though. ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

denverd1
09-19-2014, 11:51 AM
just ran across this and thought it was pretty cool. you could pair it with a high flow fan and really move some air. Although you'd prolly need hood vents to make a significant difference
Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 3653 Economy Adjustable Thermostatic Fan Control: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41a%2Blkd9BOL.@@AMEPARAM@@41a%2Blkd9BOL

autotech98
09-20-2014, 05:02 AM
Oh yeah that should work !

sbspence
09-20-2014, 09:50 PM
Nice. Now would you hook that into the existing electric fan? If yes does anyone know exactly how?


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4.3LXJ
09-21-2014, 12:53 AM
The best way is to use the switch to run a relay for the fan

Carves
09-21-2014, 01:03 AM
The best way is to use the switch to run a relay for the fan

X 2


... and maybe a timer relay like the Hella one in this link.

http://hellahd.com/index.php/default/electrics/flasher-and-timer-modules/electrics-category-11/electrics-product-12/

denverd1
09-22-2014, 11:55 AM
Nice. Now would you hook that into the existing electric fan? If yes does anyone know exactly how?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure on the stock fan since its a clutch type. Aux fan would be the way I'd do it and leave the stock system alone, provided it is working properly. I haven't had to mess with my cooling system so no experience with it personally.

4.3LXJ
09-22-2014, 12:21 PM
After thinking about this some more, your efan is controlled by the relay which is controlled by the PCM. So, if you wire one of these in, it needs to be done in a way that the PCM does not see it or it will throw a CEL and code. The output side of any switch needs to be hooked into the wiring somewhere past the relay in the power distribution center