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View Full Version : what oil to run?



greenchevy
05-21-2009, 02:56 AM
I just got done rebuilding my 89 jeep wagoneer limited with a 4.0. Changed out the main bearings, rod bearings, piston rings, new cylinder head,oil pan gasket,manifold gasket, and valve cover gasket. Wondering what oil and weight i should run in it?

Mudderoy
05-21-2009, 03:09 AM
I used Penzoil straight 30 for 11(?) years. I just switched to synthetic Mobile 1.

Personally I'd do the synthetic.

I need to do some more reading to see exactly which one I am going to stay with.

greenchevy
05-21-2009, 03:12 AM
i wanted to start to run synthetic but wasn't sure. I think i will but what a good synthetic brand. i ran Mobil 1 for a year in the jeep before the rebuild with no leaks. probably will run Mobil again.

Mudderoy
05-21-2009, 03:18 AM
I have very little experience with the syntethics. I just moved to it last oil change. I want to run Amsoil, but looks like the only way to get it is online.

bwebb
05-21-2009, 08:51 AM
I think your supposed to break an engine in on regular oil then switch to synthetic..
might want to check on that

Voldemort
05-21-2009, 10:22 AM
Man I'm still scared of starting the synthetic with over 100,000 miles I think I'm sticking with my Valvoline and Lucas Additive.

whowey
05-21-2009, 07:48 PM
For the break-in period run something dino with LOTS of Zinc and Phosphorous. Crane Cams offers an EXCELLENT product called break-in lube. Add that to your oil for the entire break-in period.

Once you get through it.. Feel free to switch a synthetic. But make sure that it contains at least 1000 ppm of Zinc and Phosphorous. The only Mobil 1 product left with that much is the Hi-Mileage 10w30 and 10w40. Look at the back of the bottle... if it say API-SM.. put it back on the shelf. You need API-SL or older to get your correct protection.

Voldemort
05-21-2009, 09:24 PM
For the break-in period run something dino with LOTS of Zinc and Phosphorous. Crane Cams offers an EXCELLENT product called break-in lube. Add that to your oil for the entire break-in period.

Once you get through it.. Feel free to switch a synthetic. But make sure that it contains at least 1000 ppm of Zinc and Phosphorous. The only Mobil 1 product left with that much is the Hi-Mileage 10w30 and 10w40. Look at the back of the bottle... if it say API-SM.. put it back on the shelf. You need API-SL or older to get your correct protection.

And I can just start use the synthetic at the next oil change? Man I well fell weird about it.

whowey
05-22-2009, 07:35 AM
And I can just start use the synthetic at the next oil change? Man I well fell weird about it.

Yes you can...

Drop the Lucas.... If you feel the need to run a heavier viscosity, just run it. Lucas Oil Stabilzer is nothing more than some base stock, a little bit of shear and anti-wear additives and a HEAP of oil thickeners.

Keep a close eye on your motor to look for oil leaks after the change. Depending on how much gunk and crud has been left behind by the Lucas you may get some seeping seals and gaskets as the synthetics clean out that stuff.

If you are really worred about the condition of the interior of your engine. Than use one of the available cleaners first. Myself, I still adhere to the old engine cleaning trick of using #2 fuel oil to clean it out.

Drain you oil.. spin on a cheap-o filter(one of the good uses for Fram oranges)
Fill your engine with a gallon of #2
start the motor, let it warm up.
Drain the #2... put on a good filter
refill with good oil.

You will be VERY amazed at how the #2 looks when it comes out of the motor.

Voldemort
05-22-2009, 12:59 PM
Yes you can...

Drop the Lucas.... If you feel the need to run a heavier viscosity, just run it. Lucas Oil Stabilzer is nothing more than some base stock, a little bit of shear and anti-wear additives and a HEAP of oil thickeners.

Keep a close eye on your motor to look for oil leaks after the change. Depending on how much gunk and crud has been left behind by the Lucas you may get some seeping seals and gaskets as the synthetics clean out that stuff.

If you are really worred about the condition of the interior of your engine. Than use one of the available cleaners first. Myself, I still adhere to the old engine cleaning trick of using #2 fuel oil to clean it out.

Drain you oil.. spin on a cheap-o filter(one of the good uses for Fram oranges)
Fill your engine with a gallon of #2
start the motor, let it warm up.
Drain the #2... put on a good filter
refill with good oil.

You will be VERY amazed at how the #2 looks when it comes out of the motor.

I have never heard of that before. I was thinking of sea foam when you said a engine cleaner,but OK. I know what Lucas is it say right on the side it is 100% petroleum product but the have synthetic additive also and I use their gear oil for all my diffs and I have had no problems from anything so far. It even helped my Lincoln go almost 300,000 miles and that is a FORD small block so if it helped that thing it will help anything.

whowey
05-22-2009, 01:40 PM
I have never heard of that before. I was thinking of sea foam when you said a engine cleaner,but OK. I know what Lucas is it say right on the side it is 100% petroleum product but the have synthetic additive also and I use their gear oil for all my diffs and I have had no problems from anything so far. It even helped my Lincoln go almost 300,000 miles and that is a FORD small block so if it helped that thing it will help anything.

Seafoam will work as well... Kerosene would to. I like using the #2 as you can drain the oil out and the lubricity of the #2 will help keep the engine protected while it heats up.

All of the things in the Lucas additive are petroleum products... Roofing tar is also a petrolum product. Doesn't mean I want that in my engines either.

Ford small blocks are usually VERY long living engines. Getting 300k out of one really isn't a surprise.

firehawk
05-22-2009, 05:39 PM
IMO, if you are anal about changing oil like I am, every 2-3 thousand miles, synthetic oil is a waste of your money. I have gotten well over 100,000 miles out of several cars/trucks running a high grade dino oil. By high grade I mean no WalMart/AutoZone, etc... branded oil. There are several high grade oils I am just partial to Castrol.

I DO run synthetic in my diff's, and I run Mobil1 in my atv's, but not in a relatively low preformance engine like the 4.0L.

Again, just my opinion.:D

Voldemort
05-22-2009, 09:20 PM
Seafoam will work as well... Kerosene would to. I like using the #2 as you can drain the oil out and the lubricity of the #2 will help keep the engine protected while it heats up.

All of the things in the Lucas additive are petroleum products... Roofing tar is also a petrolum product. Doesn't mean I want that in my engines either.

Ford small blocks are usually VERY long living engines. Getting 300k out of one really isn't a surprise.

Man you must have not owned many fords HaHA!:rotfl2: I have heard Ford small blocks called alot of different things but NEVER "long living". I never said I wanted to put roof tar in my motor but I have used Lucas additives for as long as I have owned cars and I feel like they help so I will keep using them if you do not like them good for you.:thumbsup:


IMO, if you are anal about changing oil like I am, every 2-3 thousand miles, synthetic oil is a waste of your money. I have gotten well over 100,000 miles out of several cars/trucks running a high grade dino oil. By high grade I mean no WalMart/AutoZone, etc... branded oil. There are several high grade oils I am just partial to Castrol.

I DO run synthetic in my diff's, and I run Mobil1 in my atv's, but not in a relatively low preformance engine like the 4.0L.

Again, just my opinion.

That is how I feel and I think I will stick with what I know. It is my engine, at least I think it is????:rolleye0018:

xjjeepthing
05-22-2009, 09:36 PM
I use a Synthetic Blend. Been working great in all my vehicles.