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Pink
05-18-2009, 09:59 PM
I just thought I would do my own thread on Cheap Mods. I have been looking hard seeing as this is what I'm doing to the Red XJ(seeing as we have less money now:headshake:). I figured if enough people post the XJ compatible junkyard parts they know about it would be a great post to look back on in the future.:thumbsup:

WJ front LCA's
-same length as stock XJ LCA's but have a bend for clearance of wider tires
-slightly thicker steel than XJ LCA's and made of boxed square tubing instead of channel
-can be modded to fit XJ by cutting down the bushings to fit in the XJ's LCA pockets

WJ rear LCA's
-don't have the tire clearance bend but are 2” longer than stock XJ LCA's
- slightly thicker steel than XJ LCA's and made of boxed square tubing instead of channel
-can be modded to fit XJ by cutting down the bushings to fit in the XJ's LCA pockets

ZJ
V8 coils give 1” of lift on a XJ
gastank skid can be made to fit a 97+ XJ
rear discs can be swapped onto a c-clip D35 or corp 8.25
V8 tierod is much stronger than the XJs and is a direct swap.

Early to mid 90s ford crown vic rear disc brakes are almost a direct swap to an XJ d44 or non c-clip d35. All that is needed to bolt them up is a spacer that goes between the outer bearing retainer and outer bearing seal to make up the difference in thickness between the caliper bracket and drum bracket to give the proper bearing preload. On the XJ d44 you can use the factory outer retainer for a TJ Rubicon d44 (mopar pn 1-05083678AA) after it is redrilled to correct axle flange bolt pattern. On the non c-clip d35 a custom spacer must be fabbed up. A 1/4” tall section of 2.5” od tubing with a ~.120 wall thickness should work.

The following vehicles rear leaf packs can be used in combination w/ an XJs mainleaf to lift the rear end (cut the eyes off of the mainleafs). Trial and error will determine how much lift.
Dakota leafs
S10 leafs- I'm trying these first. I hope to get around 4"-4.5"
MJ leafs
XJ leafs

YJ rear brake line is 3” longer than the XJ's and is a direct swap.

muddeprived
05-19-2009, 06:34 AM
Dodge Dakota brake lines are 6" longer and direct bolt in.

XJ front shafts can be used with sye kits.

Bar pin eliminators can be cheaply made with angled steel and a few drilled holes.

Pink
05-19-2009, 01:24 PM
You can also use the stuff from your rear sway bar to make rear bar pin eliminators as seen here. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Rear_BPEs.htm

dok1313
05-20-2009, 02:15 PM
Dodge Durango steering boxes are way stronger than stock XJ's, and if I'm not mistaken, direct bolt in.

Pink
05-22-2009, 09:44 PM
Here is a nice Dana 30 build sheet.

Housing taken to bare tube and sleeved in 3x.250" DOM
Trussed with 2x4 .250" by Overkill Fabrications
Custom axle bracketry (.188 and .250) by Overkill Fabrications
Inner C's rotated for 12 degrees pinion and 6 caster
WJ knuckles with JKS spacer
WJ brakes
WJ ball joints (spicer)
WJ style steering over the knuckle
JKS tie rod, 1.25x.375" with WJ ends
Custom draglink, 1.25x.188" with high misalignment 1 ton ends
Custom trackbar, 1.25x.250" with RE upper and 7/8" rod end lower, RE bracket+brace
2" Superflex joints for axle UCA bushings
ARB air locker, 30 spline
Alloy-USA 30 spline 4130 inner shafts
Warn 5x5.5 30 spline hub kit
CTM u-joints
Precision 4.88 gears, Precision install kit
Alloy-USA tube seals
U-bolt yoke
Crane CrMo diff cover

muddeprived
05-23-2009, 02:10 AM
Stock JK wrangler shocks can be used for 3-4" lifts.

Dirt Dogg Rydas
05-31-2009, 02:49 PM
for the S-10 leafs what years should i be looking for?

TeXJ
06-09-2009, 06:59 PM
for the S-10 leafs what years should i be looking for?

the newer the better, because they will have less mileage. I got mine from a 2002, and it gave me 4" of lift. Perfect for the 3.5" RE superflex i had in front. It sat level. Try to use a plasma cutter to cut the eyelits off. The more heat that is generated from cutting could distort the "springyness" in the springs.

Pink
06-13-2009, 01:27 PM
the newer the better, because they will have less mileage. I got mine from a 2002, and it gave me 4" of lift. Perfect for the 3.5" RE superflex i had in front. It sat level. Try to use a plasma cutter to cut the eyelits off. The more heat that is generated from cutting could distort the "springyness" in the springs.

Did you get the pack with 3 or 4 leafs in it?

Dirt Dogg Rydas
06-14-2009, 12:26 AM
the newer the better, because they will have less mileage. I got mine from a 2002, and it gave me 4" of lift. Perfect for the 3.5" RE superflex i had in front. It sat level. Try to use a plasma cutter to cut the eyelits off. The more heat that is generated from cutting could distort the "springyness" in the springs.

does any body have any pics of how to do that

muddeprived
06-14-2009, 02:02 AM
does any body have any pics of how to do that

No pictures needed. It's real simple. Take a cut off wheel and cut the leaf right before it starts to wrap around the bushing. Two cuts and you are done. The cut off wheel works fine. It doesn't generate enough heat to damage the leaf and if it did it wouldn't damage it enough cuz it's at the very end of the leaf.

BlueXJ
06-14-2009, 10:29 AM
No Pics but cut close to the eye.

Pink
06-14-2009, 02:43 PM
They had them on Naxja but they will not show up now?

jugbutt
08-03-2009, 02:21 PM
Dodge Durango steering boxes are way stronger than stock XJ's, and if I'm not mistaken, direct bolt in.

What year?

2000XJ
08-10-2009, 10:13 PM
Steel cable, cable clamps, hooks, eye hooks, washers, and nuts will give you some great swaybar holders for when you're disconnected.

Huntingman270
11-03-2009, 10:16 PM
Dodge Dakota brake lines are 6" longer and direct bolt in.

XJ front shafts can be used with sye kits.

Bar pin eliminators can be cheaply made with angled steel and a few drilled holes.

dakota frontor rear lines? thanks

Huntingman270
11-03-2009, 10:19 PM
Dodge Durango steering boxes are way stronger than stock XJ's, and if I'm not mistaken, direct bolt in.

98 durango and dakotas not a year above or under... much stronger/easier to turn and if you find one with the plow package then you get a way better turn radius... the holes all bolt up but here will be spacers you need inbetween the box and the frame to get everything lines up... some people just use abunch of washers... easy to do... car-parts.com can aid in finding one...

Huntingman270
11-03-2009, 10:21 PM
98 chevy pickup hood release cable, lawn mower throttle handle, bicycle brake line end thingy... home brew front axle lock in... gets rid of junk vacuum crap...

muddeprived
11-04-2009, 04:31 AM
dakota frontor rear lines? thanks

I was speaking of the rear lines.

Huntingman270
11-04-2009, 07:05 AM
I was speaking of the rear lines.

cool thanks... havent heard this one yet... getting stuff together for a 6.5in lift... should come in handy...

Pink
11-04-2009, 10:22 AM
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/mrnimages/leaf_springs.png

CAHLHEIM
04-07-2010, 03:43 PM
Chevy C1500 pickup (1988 - 1999) front brake lines work well for lifted XJ's. I used the Dorman H38620 and H38621 from RockAuto.com. Had to shave roughly 1/16" off side of the banjo bolt loop, but other than that it was a very smooth install.

Credit:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70205

TeXJ
04-07-2010, 09:35 PM
so does YJ front brake lines...

xjpirate
10-16-2010, 04:21 PM
MJ leaf shackles will give 3/4" of boost in rear. helps to keep you jacked up even with your ride loaded down.:driving:

bluedragon436
10-17-2010, 03:56 PM
Def. getting some good ideas of budget upgrades... if nothing else to use temp....

TeXJ
10-19-2010, 06:13 PM
you will want to get better stuff as time/money allows.

jcbannis
11-26-2010, 01:40 PM
I used 78 f150 front coils it makes for a rough ride but mine is just a toy and it gave me 5.5 inches of lift in the front

bluedragon436
11-26-2010, 11:48 PM
I used 78 f150 front coils it makes for a rough ride but mine is just a toy and it gave me 5.5 inches of lift in the front

I know we have another member on here, that is looking to run the same setup... to try and save a bit with using already available parts...so he might be getting up with you to talk to you about your setup...

jcbannis
11-27-2010, 12:13 AM
ok sounds good just have him shoot me a message and id be more then happy 2 help and heck ive only got 60 bucks in the whole lift right now but still need a new trackbar because my frontend isabout an inch to the left side but i may fab 1 up myself

steph74
11-27-2010, 12:44 PM
ok sounds good just have him shoot me a message and id be more then happy 2 help and heck ive only got 60 bucks in the whole lift right now but still need a new trackbar because my frontend isabout an inch to the left side but i may fab 1 up myself

I thought you could just drill the bracket 1" to relacoate the trackbar ?
is that something possible of just a temporary fix that is deemed to fail ?

jcbannis
11-28-2010, 02:02 AM
i dont know but it dont look like you have much room on the bracket

bigjim350
11-28-2010, 02:27 AM
I thought you could just drill the bracket 1" to relacoate the trackbar ?
is that something possible of just a temporary fix that is deemed to fail ?

I don't know if it is deemed to fail or not. But I read the instructions to the cheaper Rough Country 4.5" lift, that does not come with a trackbar, and it instructs you to drill a new hole in the bracket.

Mudderoy
11-28-2010, 08:15 AM
I don't know if it is deemed to fail or not. But I read the instructions to the cheaper Rough Country 4.5" lift, that does not come with a trackbar, and it instructs you to drill a new hole in the bracket.

Really? My lift came with a drop bracket. The trackbar bolted to it.

steph74
11-28-2010, 09:31 AM
I knew I had seen that on another forum
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/how-relocate-your-track-bar-4919/

steph74
11-28-2010, 09:51 AM
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/how-relocate-your-track-bar-4919/

well this is from a different forum but it looks like it is working ;)

4x4Dalton
11-28-2010, 09:59 AM
I know we have another member on here, that is looking to run the same setup... to try and save a bit with using already available parts...so he might be getting up with you to talk to you about your setup...

Thanks James. Notebook is in hand and I'm writin all this down.:thumbsup:

Showtime3492
11-28-2010, 03:31 PM
early 70s bronco or f150 coils give approx 4.5 lift to front of an xj but are stiffer than stock so ride may become stiffer

v8 zj tie rod bolt in beef over stock xj tie rod

5.0 mustang injectors

Showtime3492
11-28-2010, 03:38 PM
yj brake lines 4 inch longer than stock xj
5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch tcase drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance
GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle

Showtime3492
11-28-2010, 03:41 PM
Also 4 cyl xjs had 4.10 gears but not sure what the rear axle was fronts are still d30hps

jcbannis
11-28-2010, 04:58 PM
ok thanks guys i have 2 leave out f town for a week with work but i will try relocating it when i get back home many thanks

bluedragon436
11-29-2010, 04:03 PM
Thanks James. Notebook is in hand and I'm writin all this down.:thumbsup:

Hey... no problems... that is what we are all here for... to help each other out... Now to find myself a manual XJ in the JY so I can grab the TC cross-member....

modestmar00xj
11-30-2010, 12:03 AM
awesome artical! very helpful thanks to all!

j&d Greens
01-21-2011, 04:06 AM
This thread will be helpful in the future so I'm subscribing. Thanks you all

modestmar00xj
01-21-2011, 06:18 AM
Chevy C1500 pickup (1988 - 1999) front brake lines work well for lifted XJ's. I used the Dorman H38620 and H38621 from RockAuto.com. Had to shave roughly 1/16" off side of the banjo bolt loop, but other than that it was a very smooth install.

Credit:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70205

thanks for the link over to naxja! it helped a ton!

TeXJ
01-21-2011, 08:44 AM
YJ Brake lines also give you a longer line too.

bluedragon436
01-21-2011, 08:51 AM
So there we are driving down the road and there are all these YJ's that mysteriously can't stop!!! LOL!!! I think once I get a few other odds and ends taken care of... I'm going to order some new YJ lines @ AutoZone!!

TeXJ
01-21-2011, 09:57 AM
I got mine from a local owner that was upgrading his YJ to a bigger lift which comes with longer brake lines. You can try that route, might be cheaper.

Showtime3492
10-14-2011, 12:55 PM
I had been meaning to post this up here for a while its for budget quick discos. For the lower studs if you take a cut wheel and cut them off even with the lower link tab you can go to harbor freight and get a hitch pin with the cotter pin the kind you put through a hitch that holds it in place get two for a 7 dollar total and cut the cotter pin end.off to desired length and they are the same diameter as a quick disco stud. If that's confusing tell me and ill post pics. Lol they need to be welded on but it works and us cheap.

jeepxj95
10-15-2011, 01:14 AM
pics plz

Showtime3492
10-16-2011, 09:39 PM
pics plz

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l626/Showtime3492/IMAG0274.jpg

Just measure and cut then weld

WyoXJ
11-19-2011, 07:47 PM
So is the yj rear brake line the only one that will work for my rubber line coming from my axle up to the hard line?

TeXJ
11-19-2011, 10:21 PM
So is the yj rear brake line the only one that will work for my rubber line coming from my axle up to the hard line?

Front YJ brake lines work on the front of your d30. Cant remember about the rear of the YJ brake line working on the rear of your axle.

bluedragon436
11-19-2011, 11:01 PM
So is the yj rear brake line the only one that will work for my rubber line coming from my axle up to the hard line?

You can use YJ brake lines in the rear, they are roughly 3-4" longer than stock lines, you can also use 95-00 Dakota rear line, which is 6" longer.. when I say using the rear lines, I am referring to the soft lines that go from the hardline on the Jeep down to the axle connection..

Jeep31"
01-05-2013, 08:40 PM
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/how-relocate-your-track-bar-4919/

well this is from a different forum but it looks like it is working ;)

Hello Im new here and I have done this on my car and it works really good:D
I have been running in heavy winter conditions here in Sweden.:D

4.3LXJ
01-05-2013, 09:22 PM
Yes, this is a common modification for lower lifts. Glad it worked for you

Comanche91
02-09-2013, 08:59 PM
Here are a couple of worthwhile mods I didn't see:

1. Replace the Steering Gear Box with a Quicker Ratio ZJ Box. The stock XJ/MJ steering ratio is steering 14:1, 3.5 turns lock-to-lock. The 93-98 Jeep ZJ (all models) stock ratio is 12.7:1, 3.1 turns lock-to-lock. It doesn't sound like much, but it's immediately very noticeable and a big improvement on the highway. Direct bolt-in after swapping the Pitman arms.

2. 1997+ Windshield Wiper Upgrade. My wiper arms were shot, so instead of replacing them with the old pin style I got a pair of the newer 1997 and up XJ arms. They use the newer design J-hook system to fasten the wiper blade. It's a much more solid connection that holds the blade firmly with no shuttering like in the old wobbly pin style. Since the windshields and wiper motors are the same throughout the XJ/MJ years everything fit perfectly. And because of the difference in shape between the old and new arms, an added bonus for me is that my cowl hood now opens about 3" higher w/o contact on the wiper arm tower as before. Good update when you replace the wiper arms.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/Wipers1.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/Wipers2.jpg

3: Mercedes Ambient Temperature Display in an XJ/MJ: Here's a quick writeup for the Benz temp indicator install in the 1991 XJ/MJ clock. The parts I used were an ambient temperature display module from a W124 series Mercedes Benz (from Ebay, part number 124 542 0105), and the module and temp sensor wiring harnesses - $30 on Ebay.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/W124TempModule.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/SensorCable.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/ModuleCable.jpg

Remove the plastic case from the temp module as it sits too deep behind the clock. Four screws and it slides right off. Then remove the top cover lens assembly from the clock. Carefully use a sharp utility to cut the plastic pins that hold the face on. The 1991 clock is the only clock that has sufficient space to mount things like this. Check GoJeep's site in the clock section for some info I sent him regarding the 1991 clock.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/BeforeSurgery1.jpg

Next break out the Dremel tool and start trimming. I had to cut a hole in the back for the module harness connector, and trim down then trim down the edges of LCD display to fit into the lower slot in the clock. After everything fits and clears okay, mount the LCD display (I used Liquid Steel and clamped it in to set overnight).

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/Surgery1.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/Surgery3.jpg

Replace the clock face by "welding" it back on. Lightly touching the pin holes with a low wattage soldering iron. Wire everything up and do a smoke test on the workbench.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/wiring.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/SmokeTest.jpg

Ready to mount in the MJ! Mount the temp sensor under the front bumper, run the harness thru the firewall into the dash clock cavity, and hook everything up. I used the power, dimmer, and ground wires conveniently located on the cigar lighter. Finished!

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/finished3.jpg

4. New Mitsubishi CD Player Install: Well, the old cassette player finally went out on me, so I looked around for a single DIN CD/AM/FM replacement unit. Seems like all the aftermarket heads had the garish blue, purple, green, and red light displays which I hate. Also hate detachable faceplates. Found a used Mitsubishi head on Ebay (2003 Mitsubishi, $30) that fit in really well and wired it in. I used the old cassette player bracket and did not have to trim the dash bezel at all. Sounds great, and it's nice to be able to play CDs too. The the radio / CD fits in well I think, except for the "MITSUBISHI MOTORS" in gold letters in the lower left corner. But Mitsubishi was a part of D/C at the time (from a 2003 model) and the head was made by Alpine, so it's sort of still in the family.

I have lots more cheap mods and will post when I have time.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/Radio2.jpg

Blaqhawk
02-09-2013, 10:30 PM
Awesome! ! Keep them coming!

Swyped from my Gnex

jasonwhitexc
03-17-2013, 10:44 AM
i just bought a 01 xj sport. I am wanting to lift it and dont really really want hurt my fuel economy that much. What is a good combo? I have 225/75 on it right now.

4.3LXJ
03-17-2013, 03:02 PM
2" lift and 30 tires are good. Beyond that you start trading looks and off road ability for gas milage

jasonwhitexc
03-17-2013, 08:37 PM
i am thinking 3in suspension and using 30x9.5 or 235/75.
thanks

sinat
05-16-2013, 12:12 AM
I just thought I would do my own thread on Cheap Mods. I have been looking hard seeing as this is what I'm doing to the Red XJ(seeing as we have less money now:headshake:). I figured if enough people post the XJ compatible junkyard parts they know about it would be a great post to look back on in the future.:thumbsup:

WJ front LCA's
-same length as stock XJ LCA's but have a bend for clearance of wider tires
-slightly thicker steel than XJ LCA's and made of boxed square tubing instead of channel
-can be modded to fit XJ by cutting down the bushings to fit in the XJ's LCA pockets

WJ rear LCA's
-don't have the tire clearance bend but are 2” longer than stock XJ LCA's
- slightly thicker steel than XJ LCA's and made of boxed square tubing instead of channel
-can be modded to fit XJ by cutting down the bushings to fit in the XJ's LCA pockets

ZJ
V8 coils give 1” of lift on a XJ
gastank skid can be made to fit a 97+ XJ
rear discs can be swapped onto a c-clip D35 or corp 8.25
V8 tierod is much stronger than the XJs and is a direct swap.

Early to mid 90s ford crown vic rear disc brakes are almost a direct swap to an XJ d44 or non c-clip d35. All that is needed to bolt them up is a spacer that goes between the outer bearing retainer and outer bearing seal to make up the difference in thickness between the caliper bracket and drum bracket to give the proper bearing preload. On the XJ d44 you can use the factory outer retainer for a TJ Rubicon d44 (mopar pn 1-05083678AA) after it is redrilled to correct axle flange bolt pattern. On the non c-clip d35 a custom spacer must be fabbed up. A 1/4” tall section of 2.5” od tubing with a ~.120 wall thickness should work.

The following vehicles rear leaf packs can be used in combination w/ an XJs mainleaf to lift the rear end (cut the eyes off of the mainleafs). Trial and error will determine how much lift.
Dakota leafs
S10 leafs- I'm trying these first. I hope to get around 4"-4.5"
MJ leafs
XJ leafs

YJ rear brake line is 3” longer than the XJ's and is a direct swap.

what is needed for the disk brake swap? i have the chrystler 8.25 rear, may get a 8.8 sometime down the road

bluedragon436
05-16-2013, 01:00 AM
There are a few threads on here with people talking about the disc conversion... I started one that folks can put links in that might be helpful to completing this conversion... I have included quite a few links that I have found very informative on this check out the thread (http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=4961).. and feel free to post if you still have any questions on the conversion..

If you do decide to do the 8.8 conversion then you can just pick up an 8.8 that already has disc brakes out of an Exploder, and you can keep an eye out for one that is already set up with 4.10 gears if you plan to go to 33's, and/or keep an eye out for a LSD diff

4.3LXJ
05-16-2013, 09:17 AM
If you have the 8.25, you can use Jeep Liberty rear discs and cable. The 8.8 is available on some models with the discs already on.

sinat
05-16-2013, 09:24 AM
There are a few threads on here with people talking about the disc conversion... I started one that folks can put links in that might be helpful to completing this conversion... I have included quite a few links that I have found very informative on this check out the thread (http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=4961).. and feel free to post if you still have any questions on the conversion..

If you do decide to do the 8.8 conversion then you can just pick up an 8.8 that already has disc brakes out of an Exploder, and you can keep an eye out for one that is already set up with 4.10 gears if you plan to go to 33's, and/or keep an eye out for a LSD diff

i found a 8.8 on craigslist last night w/lsd, and disks $250 might get it

jeephater
08-03-2013, 11:49 PM
rear hatch struts on my 95 were wore out so I replaced them with beefier ones from a 2000 ford windstar rear hatch. they are longer so it lifts hatch a bit higher. they work great! they fit perfect, snap right in. now i'm gonna rig up the wore out original struts for hood struts.

I also did the s10 bastard pack on my leafs. works great, lifted about 3.5 inch. also used the s10 shocks they are 4.5" longer then stock xj rear shocks. springs are a bit stiff but still flex well offroad since I have a bunch of weight in back from all the gear I carry. the shackle angle is pretty bad now though, almost straight up and down. I also have the 95 dakota rear brake lines and 95 chevy 1/2 ton 2wd front lines.

sinat
08-12-2013, 11:46 PM
If you have the 8.25, you can use Jeep Liberty rear discs and cable. The 8.8 is available on some models with the discs already on.

what do you do? just pull the brakes and replace them? or the axle?

XjJeepacorn
08-13-2013, 12:01 AM
I used the Zj rear discs because the parts are plentiful at the jy liberty a aren't really showing up there to much yet only seen one this year in the 5 years I've been going to my local yard.

You have to pull the axels, grind out the hole for the mounting plate bolt it back up and put the breaks back together, I also used jeep kj e break cables.

Check out my write up

http://www.jeepacornforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=98

Mudderoy
08-13-2013, 10:25 AM
rear hatch struts on my 95 were wore out so I replaced them with beefier ones from a 2000 ford windstar rear hatch. they are longer so it lifts hatch a bit higher. they work great! they fit perfect, snap right in. now i'm gonna rig up the wore out original struts for hood struts.

I also did the s10 bastard pack on my leafs. works great, lifted about 3.5 inch. also used the s10 shocks they are 4.5" longer then stock xj rear shocks. springs are a bit stiff but still flex well offroad since I have a bunch of weight in back from all the gear I carry. the shackle angle is pretty bad now though, almost straight up and down. I also have the 95 dakota rear brake lines and 95 chevy 1/2 ton 2wd front lines.

Keep us updated on the WindStar struts. I'm wondering if strong and higher might cause problems with the hatch hinges down the road.

Infidel Edition
08-19-2013, 02:24 PM
Dodge Durango steering boxes are way stronger than stock XJ's, and if I'm not mistaken, direct bolt in.

Is that '87 +
...or only post Chrysler XJ's?

4.3LXJ
08-19-2013, 02:25 PM
Any of them.

abebehrmann
08-19-2013, 02:35 PM
I found this website while perusing the web for information on junkyard lifts for XJ's. Seems like a very informative page and could help some people out on their projects. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Budget_Lift.htm

87KamikaZ
09-22-2013, 03:06 PM
Good info. Going to upgrade my steering gear now!

JeepZombie
06-02-2014, 03:19 PM
This thread was a great idea and I think it needs a little resurrection. Perhaps when posting swap-outs that can be done, years can be used as well so that we know what year(s) of the swap-out we're talking about and what year(s) of vehicle said swap-outs can go onto.

Something like, "On the 1985-97 Hillybilly Truck, the rear Widgets are a direct swap-out for the pre-'97 XJ's." and perhaps we could actually get a parts chart started on this?

I think that would be absolutely fantastic for budget builders!

Cheers!