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4.3LXJ
09-27-2010, 03:02 PM
I guess I never really showed my build in one piece here. I just sort of gave an incomplete few bits and pieces. So here it is.

I started out with an 86 stock XJ with 2.8L 5 speed tranny. Built myself a bumper and got a winch right off. Sorry I don't have pics of the bumper build, but it is made out of 6061 Aluminum and designed to deflect animals under the rig instead of over the top when hit. All I can say is, it works and saves damage from deer and other animals. I had a Mile Marker 9,000# winch that gave up the ghost with no fanfare so I bit the bullet and bought a Warn 9.5ti to replace it. Moved to CA and found the smog police not liking my little V6 and I couldn't buy carburetor parts for it. I wasn't about to scrap it, so I started on a build that just kept growing and is still not done.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0152.jpg

The smog police wouldn't let me use a 5 speed so I had to use a 4L60E to go with the 93 4.3L Chevy. I rebuilt the tranny with all the good stuff you need to beef it up and used an adapter from Advance adapters to get the 6 bolt flange for the New process transfer case. Also pictured is the right side header and full three inch exhaust and high flow cat from Summit Racing.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0152.jpg

Here is the left side header and 2 1/4' exhaust with mandrel bends feeding the 3" system

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Steeringboxes.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/AGRinstalled.jpg

I got tired of getting junk yard steering boxes that leaked, so I bought an AGR steering box and high volume pump from 4 Wheel Parts. The box is tapped for a future rock ram.

My shop cat gets in on the action when I don't make too much noise. The cat decided I needed to upgrade my NP231 tcase, so I bought an Atlas 4 speed. Here he is showing his approval.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0147.jpg

I clocked the case prior to putting it in. These things weigh about 185#. So it is much easier to do it out of the rig.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0165.jpg



http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0167.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0168.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0135.jpg

I used Advance Adapters motor mounts, but found I had to center the motor and tranny so I ended up doing a little fabbing on them. AA was kind enough to send me stuff free of charge to do this.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0139.jpg

The 86 had mechanical gages while the 93 Chevy had digital. Here is the two oil pressure sensors, one on the left for the Jeep and one on the right for the Chevy ECM

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0137.jpg

It gets worse with the temp sensors. The one on the left is for the ECM, the one on the right I tapped in for the radiator fan control switch.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0138.jpg

This one I tapped in for the Jeep temp gage.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0182.jpg

4.3LXJ
09-27-2010, 03:06 PM
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0182.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0183.jpg

Dropped it in and made a cross member out of 2 X 4 X 1/4" rectangular tubing and got a little help hanging the tcase.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0185.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0186.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0390.jpg

Cooling is a huge issue here in NorCal where temps can reach 115* in the summer. Whenever any kind of 90* V motor is installed in an XJ, the air flow is restricted and cooling is a real problem. To remedy that, I cut some holes in the hood. The ones in the front for air flow. The ones in the rear are fans on oil coolers that are turned on when the oil temp reaches 160* and blow cooler air into the back of the engine compartment. I am in the process of making louvers for the hood now.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0163.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0180.jpg

T feed the oil coolers, I tapped into the engine oil filter adapter and ran the engine oil and tranny cooler lines up the back of the engine.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0243.jpg

To handle the cooling duties, a Griffin radiator was ordered set up for a Chevy.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0242.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0244.jpg

And since I melt in heat, a new AC condenser was mounted in the stock position.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0260.jpg

The Advance Adapters shift linkage was not console friendly, so I made this linkage for the main case and used the one they provided for the planetaries.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0261.jpg

Here it is installed in the tunnel.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0268.jpg

Here is how it turned out when finished. The extra wires on the T handle are for a manual torque converter lockout.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0268.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0266.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0266.jpg

I plan on ditching the D35 this fall, so parking brakes will be a problem. To solve that, I got this parking brake from Parts Mike through Tom Woods Drivelines.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0269.jpg

Th make it work, I modified the stock parking brake handle to have the rod come out the bottom instead of the back. You cannot tell the difference when installed.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0272.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0295.jpg

Tom Woods drivelines were installed and the pinion angle reset for a CV driveshaft.

AC is hooked up, OBA done and custom air box and horn made for the Chevy. As of this time, it does 0 - 60 in about 100 yards and gets 16 mpg. I am going to wheel it this summer and start on axles in the fall.

4.3LXJ
09-27-2010, 03:13 PM
Then I added my on board air. I bought another new compressor and some goodies from Kilby Enterprises. Here is the compressor.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0073.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0075.jpg

I don't have any pics of exactly how I made the bracket, but I did it all with a piece of 3/8X2" steel with four holes drilled in it and using normal shop tools and a MIG set up for aluminum. I got the idler set up parallel with the use of a hole saw in a drill press and swinging the table under the saw.

4.3LXJ
09-27-2010, 03:13 PM
Then I added my on board air. I bought another new compressor and some goodies from Kilby Enterprises. Here is the compressor.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0073.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0075.jpg

I don't have any pics of exactly how I made the bracket, but I did it all with a piece of 3/8X2" steel with four holes drilled in it and using normal shop tools and a MIG set up for aluminum. I got the idler set up parallel with the use of a hole saw in a drill press and swinging the table under the saw.

Punisher
09-27-2010, 07:08 PM
NOW thats some serious Machine you have there!!!
I LOVE IT!! :thumbsup:

4.3LXJ
09-27-2010, 08:33 PM
NOW thats some serious Machine you have there!!!
I LOVE IT!! :thumbsup:

Thanks, but it is not done yet. It needs a good breather.
So I started with three inch mandrel exhaust bends. These are the ones I had left over from when I made my 3' exhaust. They have a true 3" radius throughout the bend and are the same technology used by K&N and others to make their air horns for their custom intakes.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0470.jpg

I cut another mounting plate and started with what was half a bend and tacked it in. Then I put the air box in position and cut the 180* bend and tacked it into position.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0472.jpg

Here it is partially welded. Then I cut a short piece to connect the air box.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0473.jpg

Then it was time to weld it all together. Easier said than done. Exhaust tubing is kind of thin on the long side of those bends. It is also aluminized which affects the shield gas. Many times the welds turn black instead of shiny like most MIG welds. It is necessary to get them aligned as perfectly as possible. To do this I used a bench model belt sander.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0479.jpg

Once tacked together I put it all in the vise and proceeded to weld. The method welding two thin edges together is a little different than just regular MIG welding. Normally, you want to weld on the level if you can and set the machine for the proper penetration. But with this, I set the machine to weld 1/8" steel and then welded down hill. MIG welds do not like gravity and will start flowing down hill. I used the puddle to shield the edges of the metal and then still add a good amount of wire. The result is not real pretty, but keeps the edges from disappearing. This is not structural anyway.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0474.jpg

I had one spot with a crack in it and was too lazy to cut another, so I used the down hill trick again and stitched it. The nice thing about a MIG is that you can instantly turn it off and on and you don't have to go through the "striking an arc" procedure you do with stick. To weld the crack, I stitched one side down hill from the previous weld, then the other. Let the glow go out of the metal and then down hill stitch the two together, then repeated the process exactly like that. The result looked somewhat like a stick weld that had been done with little circles with the stick.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0480.jpg

Next thing to do for a nice effect was grind the welds. I used a typical 4" angle grinder to start and then finished them with an angle die grinder with a sanding disk on it which makes it almost like a mirror.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0475.jpg

One last thing was the oil breather tube. I used 1/2" EMT tubing and bent it with a bender.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0481.jpg

Then welded it on.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0482.jpg

I put the AEM filter in the air box and put it all in after painting.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0484.jpg

4.3LXJ
09-27-2010, 08:35 PM
Went to the pick and pull and got an aftermarket 31 gal gas tank for $35 with sending unit, straps and skid plate. This one is apparently produced by a local company here in Chico. I was going to do something like this and try for 40 gal but I sure can't for this price.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0476.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0477.jpg

The low part of the tank sits about 2.5" lower than stock. Here is a pick of the front of the stock tank on my shelf to compare the position of the sending unit.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0478.jpg

There are a couple of problems with it, no big deal though. They punched a hole in the bottom to drain it but since it is heavy steel it is easily welded. Also looks like it needs a new o ring for the sending unit. Fill neck is a little short too, no big deal.

Here is a side view of the tank installed

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0504.jpg

Here is a rear view without the rear bumper.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0503.jpg

Driving with it has been fun. Went on a trip here locally , about 160 miles with 105 of it off road. Used about 15 gal of fuel, which in a 20 gal tank would have made me a little antsy. The other thing is that it takes about 140 - 160 miles normal driving to get off full. Kind of nice.

4.3LXJ
09-27-2010, 08:38 PM
Unfortunately, I don't have any pics of when I made my long arms. But not to worry, I will be remaking them from a y link to a true three link this winter. I will be strengthening the frame shortly.

I am sort of always tweaking my suspension to get what I want. Too cheap to just buy leaf springs I guess. I had a set of rear springs consisting of the main and a S10 heavy duty rear spring. If I used three leaves, it was good riding but not tall enough. If I used the whole thing, it had the right height but was too stiff. Our XJs are apparently quite a bit lighter than other comparable rigs which might explain why they do so well off road. So anyway, I have always wanted to experiment with some Isuzu Rodeo springs. They are slightly shorter than S10 springs, have about 2" more arch in them and have thinner leaves. The width is a metric size that is about 1/16" shy of the width of our springs, close enough. Here is the spring out of the vehicle.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_0510.jpg

As you can see, it has quite a bit of curve to the leaves. Here is an S10 leaf next to the Rodeo leaf

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_0511.jpg]

It is a well set up spring, here it is disassembled. Notice the space between each leaf. This space is called "snap". Probably because the spring will snap apart when the center pin is cut.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_0509.jpg

To use this spring, it is necessary to cut off the eyes with a torch and use the main leaf as our #2 leaf. I tried using all three leaves with the bottom leaf upside down. This would be a good design for a two stage spring and not allow the leaves to over flex and loose their temper. I set it down and got an amazing 6" lift with it. However it was too stiff like that. I then removed the #2 Isuzu leaf, which would be our new #3 leaf and kept the bottom leaf upside down. It looked like this.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_0513.jpg

This gave a very soft spring with something like a stock spring rate with 3" of lift. But it seemed a little soft like that. So I took the leaf I removed and cut it to 10" from center on the short side and 12" on the long side and put it right side up in the bottom. This changed the spring from a two stage spring to a single stage four leaf spring, which is what was factory and a little stiffer, but still flexible. My estimate is that it is about 1/3 greater spring rate just like my front RE coils. This netted a 4" lift together with my 1" spacer blocks gives me 5" rear lift which gets me level, which is where I started only now I have softer springs.

Mudderoy
09-27-2010, 08:55 PM
Very cool, nice to see something done nice but different from everyone else. Me, I'm a copycat.

4.3LXJ
09-27-2010, 08:56 PM
Very cool, nice to see something done nice but different from everyone else. Me, I'm a copycat.

I am a true individual. Always outside the box

cantab27
09-27-2010, 09:37 PM
cheers steve ,, interesting reading and impressive fad skills .... like how everything you do looks nice and tidy ..... do you plan your mods for a while before you do them , or just get a idea and go for it .... either way cool stuff mate ....

4.3LXJ
09-27-2010, 09:58 PM
cheers steve ,, interesting reading and impressive fad skills .... like how everything you do looks nice and tidy ..... do you plan your mods for a while before you do them , or just get a idea and go for it .... either way cool stuff mate ....

I think about them for some time before I do anything. I try to consider all the angles and how they will perform compared to my goals for the vehicle.

4.3LXJ
09-29-2010, 05:35 PM
Here is something I forgot that I did the other day that doesn't cost anything. After using the Isuzu leaves, my shocks weren't long enough and they hang down anyway. So I relocated them. I did that by using a sawsall to cut the shock horizontally even with the bottom of the tube on the axle, then grind a small semicircle in the back edge and then weld in on a little to the left of the stock position. This allows it to have the same amount of up travel and longer down travel.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0560.jpg

nismo5
10-02-2010, 10:38 PM
lookin great as always steve cant wait till you get the axles swapped well have to hit the dirt pretty soon

4.3LXJ
10-02-2010, 10:57 PM
I'll be working on it

nismo5
10-07-2010, 04:07 PM
sorry ive been such a slacker on gettin your jack stands back to ya as soon as i was done with em i got my new front axle and ive just been lazy puttin off puttin it in if you need them let me know ill bring em by right away i plan on puttin it in by the end of next week thanks alot steve i appreciate it:thumbsup: the were a great help

4.3LXJ
10-07-2010, 04:18 PM
Not a problem, I have spares.

4.3LXJ
05-01-2011, 09:06 PM
I got a chance to finish up one louvre for my hood today. I don't know if I am totally satisfied, but I think it will do for now. At least it is better than my last attempt. Here are some pics. A little flat black rattle can and I think it will be fine

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1103.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1102.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1104.jpg

nismo5
05-02-2011, 09:29 AM
that looks pretty cool steve ! glad to see you covered up those giant holes :)

4.3LXJ
05-02-2011, 09:45 AM
Only one so far, but now I know how to make it work.

4.3LXJ
05-06-2011, 01:08 AM
Finished up the other one today

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1105.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1107.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1106.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1108.jpg

Mudderoy
05-06-2011, 07:28 AM
Pretty cool, thanks for the pictures!

hookedonxjs
05-06-2011, 10:38 AM
Nice tin knockin Steve, where's the chiller lines? That looks wild man ultra original setup. Is that a tmj bumper up front?

4.3LXJ
05-06-2011, 10:45 AM
Nice tin knockin Steve, where's the chiller lines? That looks wild man ultra original setup. Is that a tmj bumper up front?

Na, just some aluminum scrap I welded up

cj4a nz
05-08-2011, 04:49 AM
neat built steve as usual but just noticed on the fuel tank a sticker saying do not weld or torch,you must of degassed it it before welding!

4.3LXJ
05-08-2011, 11:33 AM
Yes, I made sure it was not hiding anything inside.

4.3LXJ
07-10-2011, 11:44 PM
Worked on my spare tire carrier today. I started with a OEM carrier I got for $25 from the pick and pull. The way I figured it, If I didn't use any more than the latch, which would be hard to build, I was ahead of the game. I brought all the pieces home and have been thinking about this for probably a good year or so. Don't want to get in a hurry here. The thing is that I have an aluminum bumper on the rear that I built for a winch also. So I couldn't use the entire stock setup anyway. So I started out with just the brackets. I had to raise the whole thing up and slant i forward on the top and kick the top out. So I made this top bracket that is just like the original cast iron bracket, accept it is upside down on the mounting surface.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0892.jpg

The bottom bracket is a cast piece that bolts into the factory bumper. My bumper sticks out farther to accommodate a winch, so after raising it up I made this mounting point on the bottom.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0891.jpg

Here is a pic of the winch sitting in its intended spot and the latch receiver welded in place. Not much room left here.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0894.jpg

Then I made some cuts in the tubing and rewelded so it had some more curve to it. I don't have any pics of this. But the bracket had to be repositioned so it was time to cut a little steel and start welding

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1246.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1249.jpg

I also repositioned the handle so it would not be so exposed to getting hit. This carrier also uses a top rubber bumper. The one that came with it was a little thrashed, so I pulled out an auxiliary spring snubber I have been carrying around for too many years now through two moves and mounted it to this aluminum plate.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1247.jpg

I spaced it out and screwed and JB Welded it to the fiberglass tailgate. I also repositioned the adjustable snubber bolt.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1250.jpg

Well, now it is on, but still has some uglies that need to be smoothed up and painted. Tomorrow I have to move the license plate and make a lighted frame to fit inside the spare. Will post some more tomorrow.

4.3LXJ
07-14-2011, 10:19 PM
Finallt got it done, as least for right now. I managed to loose the special shoulder bolts and had to get some more, which did not fit exactly. So I had to ream out the brass spherical joints in the hinge, which was a pain because they are impregnated with oil and don't ream very fast. But I got some paint on it and got the tire on it too.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1253.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1254.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1255.jpg

I also relocated the license plate from behind the tire, but no pic of that. I suppose I should shine up that wheel, but later. Lots of other things to do before going to the rocks.

Mudderoy
07-14-2011, 10:28 PM
It's nice having a full sized spare with you and out of the way isn't it?

4.3LXJ
07-14-2011, 10:30 PM
It's nice having a full sized spare with you and out of the way isn't it?

Oh yeah, I have been wheeling around here close so it was not so much of a problem, but travel 100 miles and then 10 miles back in the rocks, that is another story. That is a long walk for a spare.

cantab27
07-15-2011, 12:37 AM
nice steve,,,what m/t are you running..

4.3LXJ
07-15-2011, 09:23 AM
I have BFGs. Back ones are getting a little worn. Thinking of picking up a couple of KM2s

4.3LXJ
08-01-2011, 10:51 PM
I did something I thought I would never do. I have got to stop saying that. :rolleye0012: I added GPS to my Jeep. I got a droid phone a few months ago to use as an internet car because it was cheaper and we live out in no mans land. Then I started finding apps that were all sorts of fun. Since it had GPS built in, I down loaded an off road topographical capability to the GPS. Then I got a car mount for it so I can easily see it while driving. This will be really cool when we go to Fordyce. There are some trails that go out on bare granite that if we don't find any signs prohibiting it, we will continue on. Here is a pic of it displaying Ishi Road, which I have posted on this site. It shows it as only a trail :rolleyes:

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1273.jpg

xj4life2
08-02-2011, 11:44 AM
Sweet !! hey steve we do have a book here that cover Fordyce and has GPS Cordinates in the back if ya wanna copy .......

4.3LXJ
08-02-2011, 02:59 PM
Thanks. I have looked at it and it doesn't have some of the trails we will be on. You know me and maps. If it looks promising, I am there.

4.3LXJ
08-02-2011, 09:20 PM
I have had good fans on my XJ, but in the coming weeks I am looking at the possibility of going up a 40 mile long hill and climbing 6,000 feet and flat towing a vehicle in the process with the wife with me which means the air needs to be on too. I have a good aluminum radiator but wanted to upgrade the fan so I could get more air through the radiator. I have drug this Ford Taurus fan around with me for about 7 years now and decided it was time to use it. It makes a good upgrade over the stock fan and is capable on the high speed of moving 4800 cfm if it has a good shroud. So here is how to make the shroud to fit in the space where the belt driven fan is.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2011-07-03_18-44-21_728.jpg

The first thing to note is that the XJ 4.0L radiator is only 11" tall and the Taurus fan is 16" in diameter. If you bolt up the fan directly to the radiator it will not pull 4800 cfm, but more like 3800 cfm. If you are a whiz with geometry you can figure it out for yourselves. So you can have some of it above the radiator or below. In my situation, I only had about 2" to play with above so I chose to put the extra 5" of fan below. This is the shape I chose to use, although you could use a more square shape if you desired. I started with a flat piece of aluminum. I have the advantage of having a shear and brake in the shop, but I have made two other shrouds with angle aluminum pop riveted. Besides, I can't bend a 19" piece of hardened aluminum in my brake. So I used some 20 gauge galvanized steel, same stuff duct work is made out of and spaced the fan out a little farther than you will be able to with a 4.0L engine.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2011-07-03_18-44-42_763.jpg You can see if yo look closely I pop riveted it all together, which is not hard to do if you are using sheet metal or angle aluminum. The idea is to space the fan a little back behind the radiator and duct the air so it has to go through all the fan. Here is the final shape.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2011-07-03_20-01-34_958.jpg

Next it was time to cut out the space for the fan blade. I don't have a compass that I can draw a 16" circle with, so I made one with a scrap piece of aluminum, a drill screw and a sharpie marker.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2011-07-04_16-00-33_29.jpg

I used a saber saw with a metal blade in it to cut on the line, but I needed a hole to start with. A step drill makes a nice large hole quickly.

Here is the finished ducting on the shroud.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2011-07-05_15-32-38_200.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2011-07-05_15-32-28_661.jpg

Notice there is quite a bit of fan on the outside edge that would not be used without the shroud. This is the most efficient area of the fan.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2011-07-05_20-10-33_142.jpg

Next you have to get creative according to what you have to work with. I chose to use aluminum tubing and bend it with spring benders, the type plumbers use to bend copper tubing. However I have also used angle aluminum spaced out from the shroud in other projects. I then made a mounting plate to mount the motor to and welded the bent tubing to the motor plate and shroud. What you cannot see is some rubber grommets under the plate to help keep the motor quiet. Here is the finished shroud.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1277.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1278.jpg

Notice in the photo there is a small sheet metal hook to go on to the stock radiator shroud mount. The other side rests on the frame rail where the notch is.

Here it is mounted in the XJ

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1267.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1268.jpg

Next, you have to wire it up. I like things to operate like OEM things, and since my wife needs to be able to drive this it has to be a no brainer. So here is my wiring diagram for it.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Taurusfanwiring013.jpg

Now a few words of explanation here on this diagram. First I have functional AC. So it has to work both fans when it is on. Second, the fan needs to work on low speed during norman operation and high speed with AC or when the engine is working hard for extra cooling. The other thing is that both of my fans can pull 50 amps on start up, so heavy duty 12 gage wiring and 60 amp breakers were used for both. Also, don't try to use light wiring plugs on the breakers. Get 50 amp relays and plugs that attach that are rated for that much or you will start frying wiring and it will quit on you. I have already found out the hard way with my other fan set up. So don't skimp on this part of it. My primary sensor for the Taurus fan is a Gm sensor that goes on at 200° and off at 190°. It is located in the intake manifold next to the thermostat housing which holds a 190° tstat for right now. It operates by grounding the coil on the relay. This relay powers the next relay, which if not switched on will default to the slow speed on the Taurus fan. If however the coolant going into the engine is above 185°, the middle relay will switch to the higher speed and turn on the aux fan. Between the two they will pull an amazing 7000 CFM, which Griffin Radiator assures me will handle 600 hp on the engine. If the AC compressor comes on, the wire attached to that will kick both fans on even if the engine is cold and provide enough air going through the condenser coil at idle to give the same cooling as cruising the highway thereby giving you the coldest air possible at idle in traffic or wheeling.

4.3LXJ
08-12-2011, 08:06 PM
I got tired of trashing my track bar regularly, so I decided to make some alterations. I got some joints and tubing from Parts Mike and built this track bar.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/2011-07-05_20-10-16_343.jpg

I modified my heavy duty lower mount I made to accept the new joints, which are larger than Johnny Joints. Didn't take much, moved one flange and drilled the hole to 9/16" for the larger bolt. But when I hooked the bottom in and went to make the top bracket, I noticed I was going to get some interference with the axle components and the sway bar mount. The reason for this is that I have a high steer and had to move the mount up 5" and toward the driver side, which made a shortened track bar in the first place. So, I decided to move the tie rod end on the steering box side up 4". To do this, I used a pitman arm off a Camaro

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1301.jpg

You will notice it is almost 2" longer, which is a good deal since the upper arm on the high steer is also longer. This will compensate for that nicely. Here is a pic installed.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1302.jpg

This will also place less strain on the steering box when wheeling.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1303.jpg

Here is the mount I made. It is a little higher than the stock mount and is about even with the bump stop.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1304.jpg


Here is the finished produce. Drag link and track bar exactly the same length and parallel.

4.3LXJ
08-21-2011, 10:06 PM
Finished my new really heavy duty three link suspension today. It uses 3" rod ends and bushings from Parts Mike, DOM tubing and 1/4" steel brackets welded to the frame. I had a Y link, but I made it as a temporary suspension to play with until I decided what I would end up with. Here is the results.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1321.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1324.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1333.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1335.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1345.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1346.jpg

Leonmac
08-24-2011, 11:09 PM
Hi Steve, Just flicked though the build as I had read most of it on CF, As you Know I'm going to do the axle swap so will leave my LA conversion until then. The rear axle as it comes from the Doner truck is a coil set up with 2 arms and Track bar same as a Patrol/Bronco front, I'm temped to put it in with the coils and "A" frame the top link. More work, but is it worth it, I've never had a leaf sprung truck so not sure what the stability is like ??? what you think. Cheers Leon (NZ)

4.3LXJ
08-24-2011, 11:40 PM
Hey mate, good to see you here. Leaves and coils are always debated. I used to design lift kits for leaf sprung rigs back in the day. Had a nice little business out of my shop on my days off. The thing about leaves is that it is easy to install axles and easy to tune your suspension. On my rear leaves, I have left my U bolts and center bolt long and untrimmed so I can get it just right. Added a bottom leaf yesterday. Piece of cake. But, the other side is that coils ride nicer and will soak up the bumps better. Much easier to make them flex too. However, I have managed to make mine flex a lot for leaves. But I am thinking of linking the rear when I put my new axles in too.

Leonmac
08-25-2011, 12:04 AM
As you say, Leafs are easy to swap axles, weld on some spring seats and your done, I have a nice big set leaf to do an "Adda Leaf", will see how much lift that gets me and then put a couple of spacers in the front to level her up. Will probably run the std axles for awhile untill I get the front axle built. I will swap them out once I have everything ready to go as this is my DD when I'm home so don't want it off the road for months. Like what you are doing with yours, some real neat stuff going on there. Cheers Leon (NZ)

4.3LXJ
08-25-2011, 12:23 AM
How tall are you aiming to be?

Paddletrucker
08-25-2011, 01:58 AM
Why wouldn't the smog police let you use a 5-speed?!? What does that have to do with smog?????


---
I am here: Google Maps

4.3LXJ
08-25-2011, 08:34 AM
Why wouldn't the smog police let you use a 5-speed?!? What does that have to do with smog?????


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=33.594892,-96.618080

It is just one of their rules sometimes enforced, depending on the smog referee. The engine has to use the same tranny that came with the engine, as well as the stock air box, which really has nothing to do with the smog sensors. The tranny does however have a speed sensor. I could have used one that adapts to the speedo cable, but in some parts of the state they dyno it to check it.

Paddletrucker
08-25-2011, 10:15 AM
No offense meant to you CA guys, but idiotic crap like that and all the other stupidity that the freaking communists over at the California Air Resources Board are the reason I quit taking loads into CA. I wouldn't go in there for nine dollars a mile. I don't know why any other truck owner would, either.

I hate that, too, because CA is one beautiful place. I've got family in northern CA and it's an amazing place.

Do they really think your 5-spd would've made your jeep pump out more smog? It'd probably have made it get better mileage, and actually have been "greener"

One thing I hate is a bureaucrat on the public payroll who was not elected that makes decisions that affect lives.

Rant over. LOL


---
I am here: Google Maps

Paddletrucker
08-25-2011, 10:29 AM
Even without the 5-speed, you've still built one awesome machine. Really cool.:thumbsup:

bluedragon436
08-25-2011, 10:40 AM
That is a nice three link you got there.. I need to learn how to do fab work like that..

Leonmac
08-26-2011, 02:59 PM
Hey Steve, I agree with paddletrucker re Smog laws, Correct if I have this wrong but CA smog law was the main reason Detroit stopped production of the 2stroke engine for trucks because they couldn't pass the immisions test in CA, The good thing to come from that though was the "Series 60" 4 stroke, one of the nicest heavy truck engines around. Back to topic. I want to keep the lift to 3" max 4" the reason is 2 fold. 1) the LCG which is always nice 2) here in NZ and especially in the Nth Island we wheel in pretty dence bush a lot and high trucks get the crapp knocked out of them by the trees etc, I also at some point would like to run a roof top tent so keeping it low will help with that. Cheers Leon.

Paddletrucker
08-26-2011, 05:44 PM
Hey Steve, I agree with paddletrucker re Smog laws, Correct if I have this wrong but CA smog law was the main reason Detroit stopped production of the 2stroke engine for trucks because they couldn't pass the immisions test in CA, The good thing to come from that though was the "Series 60" 4 stroke, one of the nicest heavy truck engines around.

Ahhhhhh yes. The Detroit 12.7 Series 60. Not the most powerful. Not the fastest. But they get good mileage a d are really reliable. The air nazis screwed that up to with the addition of exhaust gas recirculation valves. Now, they have to make a 14 litre engine to get the same horsepower as the 12.7 put out.

I run a Caterpillar, but I'd trade it in a heartbeat for a good old 12.7 liter Series 60 470hp Detroit with an 18 speed transmission and 3.55 rears.



---
I am here: Google Maps

Leonmac
08-27-2011, 12:23 AM
Hey Paddletrucker, I had a 8V92TA 475hp in my first KW 924W 1993 then a 425hp 12.7 60 in a T600 then a 475hp 60 in a T950 all great trucks Then my first Cat, a C12 great little Engine 410hp. But the best Was My International 9900i with a 600hp Signiture Cummins. Got out of the Industry after 22yrs in 2005, I do miss it but still do a bit of moonlighting when I'm on my time off. Sorry for the thread driff Steve. Cheers Leon.

4.3LXJ
02-07-2012, 08:25 PM
Now comes the part on why I chose the joints that I did. They are not the cheapest, but I thought they were the best because of ease of rebuilding and adjusting. One of my spherical rod ends had become dry from being in mud and water while wheeling. It was beginning to rattle slightly when hitting stuff. So, it was time to grease and adjust it. The first thing was to take it loose. You can see it looks dry.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1541.jpg

Second, remove a small allen screw that keeps the halves from unscrewing.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1543.jpg

Parts Mike has a special spanner that fits a half inch drive ratchet that they threw in for no extra charge when I bought my joints. A plethora of bovine manure never hurts.

Fit the spanner in the holes on the side and then turn the ratchet clockwise, without having to remove the arm or use any presses or snap ring pliers.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1544.jpg

Insert the allen screw, grease and bolt it back up. A little extra cash paid off in time and lack of frustration.

4.3LXJ
06-05-2012, 09:15 PM
Got my cool switches, custom made. Now I had some wiring to do. I put in the ones I got for the On Board Air. Here is a vid I made of it.

http://youtu.be/q39yoOjlU4c

Here are the two I got for my fans. My sensor took a dump again, so I am down to a manual switch for the smaller aux efan. Then I wanted the ability to cut them all off when fording since water will wipe them out. So the one on the left is for the aux fan, the one on the right cuts them off when fording, and lights up with a super bright LED when the fans are off, but not lit when in normal operation.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2012-06-05_18-58-49_509.jpg

Had to add a wee bit of wiring and three more relays to do that, and still have them both come on when the AC pump comes on.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2012-06-05_19-01-39_945.jpg

jonb8
06-06-2012, 06:38 AM
Awesome jeep, my first xj was a 86 with a 2.8. I was looking into the 3.4L as a swap, never thought of a 4.3L. Great job....

4.3LXJ
06-06-2012, 09:19 AM
Thanks man

4.3LXJ
07-27-2012, 11:42 PM
I blew a front sock a few days ago. The right front corner kept wanting to come up in the bumps. Then I lost a bolt out of the bar pin on the shock on the opposite corner. That made for a real interesting ride with both opposite corners coming up. Reminded me of being on the ocean. So I guess this is a great excuse for an upgrade. I have gotten my rear springs where I like them as far as flex and ride goes, but my front spring rate is still a little more than I would like so I plan on getting some Rusty's coils in the future with a spring rate of 180#. I am at 230# now. So that means the new coils will be a little longer than the ones I have now. That means longer shocks. The ones I have now are about 30" long. I got the longest stock shocks I could find at 33". I wanted to stick with these Gas Magnums since they ride so well and I can get them for $30 each. So here they are, 33" shocks.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2012-07-27_11-06-25_600.jpg

The eyes are not the same as the XJ stock shocks. There is no stud on the top of these, so I made a pair of stud eliminators. Cost me about $5 for everything I figure and that might be stretching it. I started with a 1.5" segment of 2X4X3/16" tubing, cut in half, drilled and a 7/8' bolt welded on the top. That is the size of the hole in the fender for the shock bushing. Then pressed in the bar pin for the bottom.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2012-07-27_18-59-28_738.jpg

And here we are ready for those new flexy coils

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2012-07-27_19-07-55_986.jpg

Hum Wee JR
07-28-2012, 01:23 AM
Wait, what, huh, you did what today? I see how it is. I call to say hi, we talk jeep stuff for like ten minutes, you then say son I got to go, got some "chores" to get done for the wife. I totally understand, happy wife happy life, so I hang up so you can do these so called "chores". A couple of hours latter I see posts on the internet of new shocks on the jeep. Wow dad that's an awsome honey do list. All you had to do was say, "got to go, working on the jeep" and I would totally understand. I see how I rate, first the jeep, second the wife, third me. Well as the saying goes... First is the worst, second is the best and third is the golden turd. Ha ha just poking fun at you dad.

Now seriously if you need someone to test those shocks for you just let me know. He he. And that doesn't mean strapping me to a front bumper with video camera filming tires bouncing up and down. I know you were already thinking that.

Carves
07-28-2012, 01:26 AM
Wait, what, huh, you did what today? I see how it is. I call to say hi, we talk jeep stuff for like ten minutes, you then say son I got to go, got some "chores" to get done for the wife. I totally understand, happy wife happy life, so I hang up so you can do these so called "chores". A couple of hours latter I see posts on the internet of new shocks on the jeep. Wow dad that's an awsome honey do list. All you had to do was say, "got to go, working on the jeep" and I would totally understand. I see how I rate, first the jeep, second the wife, third me. Well as the saying goes... First is the worst, second is the best and third is the golden turd. Ha ha just poking fun at you dad.

Now seriously if you need someone to test those shocks for you just let me know. He he. And that doesn't mean strapping me to a front bumper with video camera filming tires bouncing up and down. I know you were already thinking that.



:rotfl2:

Hum Wee JR
07-28-2012, 02:22 AM
:bang:Trust me, the first thing that popped into his head after I asked if he wanted help was, I need pictures or video of these shocks in motion. The second was his inventory of bungey cords, zip ties and pop rivets and how to secure me so the camera doesn't shake. Third was how awsome this video would be to watch!!! I know it wasn't let me drive.

Why would he do this to me, his first born son, his birth rite son, the only son to fulfill the legacy of third generation jeep owner.

Oh yea for all the reasons listed above.

Time to hide.... I am doomed!!!

cantab27
07-28-2012, 02:47 AM
looking forward to said videos........................................

4.3LXJ
07-28-2012, 08:55 AM
looking forward to said videos........................................

Looking for the bungee cords now ... :rolleye0012:

4.3LXJ
07-28-2012, 10:44 AM
Wait, what, huh, you did what today? I see how it is. I call to say hi, we talk jeep stuff for like ten minutes, you then say son I got to go, got some "chores" to get done for the wife. I totally understand, happy wife happy life, so I hang up so you can do these so called "chores". A couple of hours latter I see posts on the internet of new shocks on the jeep. Wow dad that's an awsome honey do list. All you had to do was say, "got to go, working on the jeep" and I would totally understand. I see how I rate, first the jeep, second the wife, third me. Well as the saying goes... First is the worst, second is the best and third is the golden turd. Ha ha just poking fun at you dad.

Now seriously if you need someone to test those shocks for you just let me know. He he. And that doesn't mean strapping me to a front bumper with video camera filming tires bouncing up and down. I know you were already thinking that.

Man, here I spend ten minutes working on your Mighty Mite, and do I get any respect? Noooooooooo. All I get is harassment because I won't let you interfere with vacuuming the carpet. And where were you when I blew the shock? Were you there to strap to the bumper? Nooooooooo. The wife was with me and she wouldn't let me strap her to the bumper even with those pink fuzzy handcuffs. Just for that, I'm leaving that hornet nest inside the Mighty Mite. I finished up the top so they have to stay inside now. You will like that. They are really gonna love you now. :love0007:

4.3LXJ
08-23-2013, 09:23 PM
It has been awhile since I have done anything serious to this Jeep. It does work well. But since I put the 3 link on and had to sacrifice the front antisway bar, it is kind of like a round bottom boat on the ocean. I lived with it because the humongous track bar I have now is wonderful and trouble free, and absolutely no bump steer period. But I have been cruising the wrecking yard looking for good parts I can adapt to the XJ and came upon some nice goodies. I snatched some nice coils for the rear linked suspension I will build shortly. But not time or budget for that and hit the Rubicon in a week and a half. But I also made a discovery about Isuzus. They have an anti sway bar I can work with. Then I got to thinking, the kid has one we are parting out by the shop. And low and behold, It has one just like the rest. So off it came. He owes me money anyway. :tongue0002: These bars are a full 1 1/8. So I was really thinking this was one heavy duty bar. Then I went to pick it up and dang I am strong today. Further examination revealed it was indeed hollow. :bang: So here it is.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0546_zps99f01503.jpg

It caught my eye because it is narrow in the center. The only ones in the yard that were. And it was just what I needed. So, on with the grand experiment. I needed a bar that was narrow because I wanted one that I could hook to my long arms. This would give me a full range of motion if I hooked it in about mid way and would not need to be disconnected. I am lazy. Besides, since it was time to think out of the box again, this bar center would anchor itself on the transmission cross member instead of the front cross member. My thinking was that instead of pulling on the corner, it would pull on the center of gravity, more or less. So it had to be narrow to fit inside the long arms. So a little work with the saws all and welder gave me this.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0548_zps73f29e64.jpg

The pins were made out of 3/4" bolts cut and drilled for a hair pin. Next I needed some brackets.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0547_zpsaa6ff469.jpg

2X3/8" flat bar drilled and tapped. Next was some cute little sway bar links made from Tereflex disconnects.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0549_zpsfc2ec638.jpg

Then it was time to get out the hot glue gun, aka welder. I welded the brackets on and found that if I mounted the bar above them like my fondest daydreams, the front driveline would hit it during full droop. Sooooooooooo, it goes underneath until I reclock the Atlas. Fortunately you can mount those in any position. That is not going to happen until this winter when I pull the tranny to replace the one piece rear main seal. I can hoist the tcase up easily enough, a mere 180#, but it is too awkward to do myself. But, it will fit nicely then when the time comes.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0551_zpsd9d4c91d.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2013-08-23_18-45-16_64_zpsbe91c9da.jpg

And yes, the astute eye will notice I have been stiffening the frame the hard way. But that is for later when I get done.

EVALUATION

This was entirely experimental. The principle is that the sway bar pulls on the frame, not the axle. So my reasoning was that it didn't matter where it was located or how long the arm was it was attached to. The test drive gave me some very nice results. The first thing I noticed was I no longer had the pitching back and forth I had. Now it wants to stay centered. I also think that the bar mounted at the center of gravity is a much better deal than on the front cross member. It would be easy to overwhelm my rear springs since they are very soft. But driving it through a few deep chuck holes doesn't seem to do that. Of course, I will be trying it out on the Rubicon soon. That will be the proof there. Cornering is much improved. We are not talking sports cars here, but definitely tolerable. I am planning on a bar for the back, so the story is not finished yet.

XJ Wheeler
08-23-2013, 10:02 PM
Good stuff, Steve. I like the idea of mounting it behind the axle, just makes more sense in my head. Mounting on the arms as well.

Really wondering about those stiffeners though. :cool:

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

4.3LXJ
08-23-2013, 10:12 PM
Good stuff, Steve. I like the idea of mounting it behind the axle, just makes more sense in my head. Mounting on the arms as well.

Really wondering about those stiffeners though. :cool:

Pics when done next week

XJ Wheeler
08-23-2013, 11:44 PM
Pics when done next week

I'll just have to wait. :D

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

Carves
08-24-2013, 07:38 AM
.....That is not going to happen until this winter when I pull the tranny to replace the one piece rear main seal.....


That'll learn ya for putting a funny motor in the XJ .. ;);)

:D:D


Interesting swaybar setup .. :cool:

Gunna be more evaluations - after a bit more of this .. :xj-blue: .. ??

4.3LXJ
08-24-2013, 09:54 AM
Yup, more evaluations :D

4.3LXJ
10-03-2013, 08:14 PM
Really wondering about those stiffeners though. :cool:

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

OK, so I finally found my round tu it

I am the kind of guy that likes to plan ahead on stuff and do stuff sequentially. I am working towards linking the rear suspension. But before I did that, I needed to reinforce the frame at least a little so I could weld brackets to it. Also planning on a rear sway bar and needed to come up with some sliders which I have needed for years. So, first step was reenforcing the frame. I know there are kits you can get from TnT and so forth, but that didn't really fit my needs for future use. Also, that wouldn't be compatible with my current three link front. So I decided to do it the hard way. I started with this

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0544_zpsb7528f6a.jpg

Plain old 3/16" flat iron. I cut each piece to fit sections of the frame and weld directly to it. The frame has irregularities, so each piece accounts for that. So I started mocking them up like this

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0545_zpsb4c9b86e.jpg

At each joint, the flat iron was welded to the frame full length from the rear leaf spring to the place where the frame curves up for the front suspension

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0557_zps69b0eedf.jpg

The welds aren't perfect, but welding vertical and overhead with a MIG slow process. Notice that the reenforcing matches the frame exactly.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0558_zps01f3ca91.jpg

I was in a hurry to get done and get to the Rubicon, so the slider mounts were welded in. They are predrilled with pilot holes which will be continued to through the frame. Then drilled to size and tapped. The bottom weld will be cut when I remove them to paint

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0559_zpsb3e8e5c9.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0560_zpsf71029e1.jpg

The sliders were made from 2X2X.125 that was laying around my shop for years. The owner cannot use it now, so it became mine.

Project TJ Resurrection is coming back for a visit, so it will be a little while before I can paint these up

Brasscatz
10-03-2013, 08:23 PM
looks great Steve! I've been wanting some sliders for mine, but they're just so expensive!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 because my microwave couldn't do it

4.3LXJ
10-03-2013, 08:25 PM
looks great Steve! I've been wanting some sliders for mine, but they're just so expensive!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 because my microwave couldn't do it

That is a fact. I just cannot afford to buy everything pre made. So I build stuff.

Brasscatz
10-03-2013, 10:19 PM
lol, for me by the time I buy the welder, buy material, learn to weld, buy MORE material.... I could've just bought the product :D

Carves
10-03-2013, 10:38 PM
Pesky visitors upsetting your routine ...

Hand them the paint tin, and the sliders when they arrive .. ;);) .. :D

.

4.3LXJ
10-03-2013, 10:41 PM
Pesky visitors upsetting your routine ...

Hand them the paint tin, and the sliders when they arrive .. ;);) .. :D

.

The problem with kids is ...................... they never do what you tell them

XJ Wheeler
10-04-2013, 11:42 AM
Very nice, and perfect timing. I have a set of the TNT stiffeners that are gonna be going on in the coming weeks. Those plates look stout and aren't going anywhere. A good base for whatever too.

I'm a sequential wrencher too. Lol. I've got a list 10-11 long to get ready to go wheeling soon and am trying to organize it so i don't have any wasted days. :rolleyes:

Do you notice any difference since the stiffeners?

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

4.3LXJ
10-04-2013, 12:24 PM
Do you notice any difference since the stiffeners?

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

Yes, I do. I never really had problems with opening doors due to a flexy suspension. However when I hit bumps and stuff, the body has lost that little shudder it always had. I will continue in the near future to extend the plating back to the bumper and forward to the coil area and perhaps a little beyond. The only drawback I see is that it is heavy. Trying to stay light as possible

XJ Wheeler
10-04-2013, 12:37 PM
Yes, I do. I never really had problems with opening doors due to a flexy suspension. However when I hit bumps and stuff, the body has lost that little shudder it always had. I will continue in the near future to extend the plating back to the bumper and forward to the coil area and perhaps a little beyond. The only drawback I see is that it is heavy. Trying to stay light as possible

I can surely understand that. Mine's is becoming a bit overweight itself. Curious to see how yours continues. With these unibodies aging i am beginning to think all XJs should have a set.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

4.3LXJ
10-04-2013, 01:06 PM
I can surely understand that. Mine's is becoming a bit overweight itself. Curious to see how yours continues. With these unibodies aging i am beginning to think all XJs should have a set.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

Lots of things on my mind. As funds are available eventually, I plan to replace my heavy cross member with an aluminum one of the same size and thickness. Probably lose at least ten pounds there alone. I also would like aluminum suspension links. Should lose a good fifty pounds in the end there too. And the sliders will be aluminum too and lose another thirty pounds. I have axle upgrades planned, but will not gain much weight there at all. Not much I can do with the tires planned. 37s weigh in heavy

XJ Wheeler
10-04-2013, 05:55 PM
Lots of things on my mind. As funds are available eventually, I plan to replace my heavy cross member with an aluminum one of the same size and thickness. Probably lose at least ten pounds there alone. I also would like aluminum suspension links. Should lose a good fifty pounds in the end there too. And the sliders will be aluminum too and lose another thirty pounds. I have axle upgrades planned, but will not gain much weight there at all. Not much I can do with the tires planned. 37s weigh in heavy

I love it! That will be quite the rig. Dimples and beads are gonna be your friend.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

4.3LXJ
10-04-2013, 06:41 PM
In all fairness, I will probably touch all those welds up before painting

Pookapotamus
08-09-2014, 10:41 PM
Steve, awesome build! Love the onboard air, and front swaybar! Your work is first class! Definately glad to resurrect this post and let's get some updates! And some good shots of your jeep!

Would love to come down and wheel with you in the future!

4.3LXJ
08-09-2014, 10:44 PM
Thanks Dana. You are always welcome here. Bring some friends too. Thee is enough wheeling in my back yard to keep you busy for a month, not including repairs :D But we were thinking of going to Yellowstone one of these days. There is a pretty good trail just north of there we thought might be fun too. Meet half way?

Pookapotamus
08-09-2014, 10:45 PM
Now that would be fun! I smell a road trip!

4.3LXJ
08-09-2014, 10:48 PM
Probably shoot for next summer on that. Let me look that trail up again. Supposed to be some good scenery and a few tight switchbacks IIRC

4.3LXJ
08-09-2014, 11:19 PM
This is the one I had in mind

https://www.google.com/search?q=Morrison+Jeep+Trail&client=safari&rls=en&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=g-7mU6oDxJnxAdjagTA&ved=0CB4QsAQ&biw=1054&bih=1380

bluedragon436
08-10-2014, 09:03 AM
But we were thinking of going to Yellowstone one of these days. There is a pretty good trail just north of there we thought might be fun too. Meet half way?

Maybe you can get Josh in one this wheeling trip!! Get a west coast :xjtalk: M&G and wheeling trip going!!

Pookapotamus
08-10-2014, 09:33 AM
I need to start picking bottles to save up to do this trip, would be so awesome to come down and meet some of you guys and get in some great wheeling!

4.3LXJ
08-10-2014, 10:22 AM
We can set something up for next summer. Also I think Josh is planning on coming down next summer to do the Rubicon

07Negative
08-11-2014, 02:15 AM
I'm game for all trips mentioned. Who's got gas money?

4.3LXJ
08-11-2014, 09:45 AM
I'm game for all trips mentioned. Who's got gas money?

Better get in in one piece first :smiley-taunt002:

07Negative
08-11-2014, 09:58 AM
Very funny funny Steve

Rocco83
08-11-2014, 10:17 AM
I was planning on coming out pulling my parts behind me in a trailer so you guys could put them all on!

4.3LXJ
08-11-2014, 10:19 AM
Wrenchparty :D

We can all stand back and toss them at your Jeep and see if any of them stick :pray:

Rocco83
08-11-2014, 03:54 PM
Well we could, but that may mess up my soon to be pretty orange paint job.

Besides it would take a lot less time to put all my parts on then it would constantly recovering me as I get stuck on every pebble on the trail :p

Rocco83
08-16-2014, 12:09 PM
So question for you. This trip to NW Wyoming going to be possible with them shutting down that area and evacuating people with the volcano getting ready to blow? I guess it is getting hot enough that the roads out there in the area are literally melting away.

4.3LXJ
08-16-2014, 06:33 PM
Well, I don't know. Strangely I haven't heard much about that at all. I do have respect for volcanoes having lived in the shadow of Mt St Helens

Rocco83
08-16-2014, 06:35 PM
Was talking to a guy today who had to cut his vacation short. They had went out to Yellowstone, but weren't allowed to get anywhere close to it due to them shutting down shop in that area and prepping for the volcano. First I had heard about it myself. He could have been joking, but I don't see why he would have joked about that or cut his vacation short.

4.3LXJ
08-16-2014, 06:36 PM
I remember reading something about that, butIIRC they discounted an eruption

4.3LXJ
09-29-2014, 10:06 PM
Been busy on the Jeep the last couple of days. My interior needs work, starting with the drivers seat which was going south now that there is 300K on the Jeep. We have this WJ sitting in front of the shop as a donor for the TJ, so I got the front leather electric seats. I also had a leather back seat in perfect condition in a matching color

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0926_zpsc8624ae8.jpg

But having a two door, just bolting some seats in presents problems for access to the rear seat. If the seat back doesn't go forward, you don't get back there unless you are anorexic. So, a little ingenuity and I have a hinged seat that combined with getting it in just the right position, easily done, with the seat motors and I can tip it forward

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0924_zps748a722e.jpg

The only catch is I have to remove the headrest which is also easily done and then a rod drops down automatically like a hood support to keep it up. All in all, it provides better access than before and if you can climb up there it shouldn't be a problem for anybody that can.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0927_zpsea208ede.jpg

This is a toggle latch, the same as Mark from Detours uses on his Knucklebone spare tire carrier. Strong and inexpensive. A quick flip of the latch and the seat comes loose in back or is tied down.

One other thing is that I have never liked trying to sleep in a reclining seat that has a flat headrest. I substituted the rests off the rear seat which were hinged. Makes a perfect pillow for me and the wife since we like thick pillows anyway.

So why the electric seats. Outside of the better access I have now to the back, I have gained something important. I have never really been able to stick my head out and watch the driver side front tire. Too short I guess. Now I raise the whole seat up and tilt the steering wheel up and I can see better over the hood and can now watch my front tire and where it goes. A win win situation

ArmyGuy45
09-29-2014, 10:08 PM
Does the rear seat fold down? Is it direct bolt in?

4.3LXJ
09-29-2014, 10:12 PM
Yes to both questions

prcjeep
09-30-2014, 08:36 AM
Were the front's direct bolt ins?

4.3LXJ
09-30-2014, 09:42 AM
Not even close. Welding of seat brackets required

Brasscatz
09-30-2014, 12:52 PM
Nicely done Steve! Looks great!

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

ChaseRallix
08-10-2015, 01:20 AM
Very cool build!

bluedragon436
08-10-2015, 04:54 AM
Not even close. Welding of seat brackets required

Would the front seats have been bolt in, had you not had a 2dr and needed the recline and such?? Like say for a 4dr install??

4.3LXJ
08-10-2015, 09:03 PM
Would the front seats have been bolt in, had you not had a 2dr and needed the recline and such?? Like say for a 4dr install??

I hinged them to tilt forward strictly because I have a two door. Otherwise they would be bolted down in back

4.3LXJ
08-10-2015, 09:04 PM
Very cool build!

Thanks Chase

Pookapotamus
08-10-2015, 09:06 PM
Nice! The zj seats are comfy!


Having 4WD means getting stuck in more inaccessible places!

4.3LXJ
08-10-2015, 09:27 PM
Yes they are Dana. I love them. But they are WJ seats. One more notch up :D

Pookapotamus
08-10-2015, 10:10 PM
Better to cradle your dainty ass???


Having 4WD means getting stuck in more inaccessible places!

4.3LXJ
08-16-2015, 08:07 PM
Yes, very dainty after nine days off road :bacondance:

4.3LXJ
10-09-2015, 03:08 PM
I haven't done much to the Jeep for awhile, except put a couple of blue tops in. I had a set of brakes from NAPA with a lifetime warranty, which I thought would eventually get me a free set. Wrong. They were so hard they just would not wear out. And didn't stop all that well unless you got them good and warm either. Lately it was getting to where I had to plan my stops in advance or take a dive for the ditch. Something needed to be done before I went wheeling last August. Lots of long steep grades there. To repair is a reason for upgrade. So, I had this WJ sitting in front if the shop. It was time to donate again to the XJ. So I pulled the brakes, knuckles and ball joints and went to work.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1441_zps2iapqnva.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1444_zpsdkmillk0.jpg

Once I changed the lower ball joints out the WJ D30 knuckles bolted right up. But they are substantially different than our standard knuckles. They are much beefier, which is good. But the tie rod and drag link are not the same. They are what is called either cross over or high steer. Take your choice on terminology. Fortunately I already had that type of set up with my Tereflex high steer. I did a tie rod flip so it was OTK and did the same for the drag link. This raised the tie rod up, which is very low on the WJ so it was just above center on the axle tube. The drag link ended up within a half inch of where the high steer position was so I didn't have to reposition the end of the track bar. But to get those 15" wheels to fit where a 16" wheel was, I had to do some grinding. The calipers had some flashing I removed, no big deal. But those large tie rod ends I have were another matter. Had to whack those to make them work in a hard turn. Anyway, I got that dialed in eventually.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1448_zpsvauhsgm9.jpg

A brake conversion is not complete without the rear brakes too. I put the WJ rear brakes on the back. This isn't a common conversion because of the backing plate. On the WJ, the backing plate and parking brake base are some kind of hard plastic. I don't have the right kind of glue for that, so I tossed it and the parking brake with it and made a backing plate out of 1/2" steel and welded it on. Who needs a parking brake anyway?

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_0266.jpg

Besides I already have that covered :D

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1445_zpswbzzg95p.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1447_zpsjmpoci0n.jpg

Ya gotta be able to push those big pistons in those calipers. I didn't think the old master cylinder was up to it, so I got a dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder out of a 98 ZJ that had a 5.9L in it. It was the same bore size as the WJ. I couldn't use the WJ master because the reservoir was too tall and I couldn't shut the hood. I had to massage the push rod a little to match it all up, but in the end you would not know the difference.

So how does it work. Totally awesome. This thing stops on a dime now and gives change. In fact, I think it stops in a shorter distance then my late model cars. Now I can think about some taller tires and be safe. (even with a small axle upgrade)

4.3LXJ
05-20-2016, 07:32 PM
Got my itsy bitsy, teeny weeny 250 amp alternator installed. Couldn't shut the hood at first, stuck up too far. After massaging the bracket a little It fits fine. Didn't even have to change belts :D

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1833_zpsmj0gclhz.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1835_zps1b5xva6u.jpg

Pookapotamus
05-20-2016, 10:21 PM
Shutting the hood is for weenies Steve! Besides its more airflow!


Having 4WD means getting stuck in more inaccessible places!

bluedragon436
05-21-2016, 12:15 PM
Looking good Steve... I thought I was doing good with my 150amp alt, but I bet you don't have any issues with power needed with that alt you got going there..

4.3LXJ
05-21-2016, 01:24 PM
That is the whole idea James. It was kinda dicey with everything running before

4.3LXJ
12-04-2016, 07:28 PM
Time to move on in my continuing quest to replace everything but most of the unibody in my XJ. Never intended to let it get this out of hand, but I have had the Jeep bug all my life and there is apparently no cure.

Since all the hardware I have left is the axles, it is time they go. Don't get me wrong, the stock axles, slightly upgraded, have served me well. Even that Dana 35. But I got an opportunity for some more fun and games in the shop. So I went to a field and got some junk. Two Dana 44 axles from a Scout.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1873_zps3xbxkxcb.jpg

So, why Scout II axles you ask. There are a couple of good reasons. One is the rear axle width is very close to the XJ. 59.5 for the Scout and 60" for the XJ. Close enough. The other is that I never was a fan of the 5X4.5" bolt circle for the wheels. The Scout 5X5.5 bolt circle is much beefier. Besides I have wheels for that anyway. Another good thing about both axles is the brakes.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1877_zpskgankyeh.jpg

This may not look dramatic in the photo, but the ScoutII rear drum brakes are 11" brakes, much bigger than ours.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1877_zpskgankyeh.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1900_zpsi8eyh8et.jpg

So can you put a Scout II/Traveler rear end directly into your XJ? Yes just by changing the spring pads and the hard brake line. Mine even has Spicer 1310 yokes instead of the straps. An 1.25" spacer/adapter and you can have a track that is almost identical with the front and use your old wheels. However, that is not quite what I had in mind. I have very upgraded brakes on the D35 and I want them on the new axle and besides, I have further upgrades in mind so I need to upgrade the brake situation, install lockers and change gear ratios and provide for further suspension upgrades :D

So let the fun begin. :bacondance::bacondance::bacondance::bacondance:

4.3LXJ
12-04-2016, 07:29 PM
So, I stripped down the the axle to the housing and found a busted spider gear in the track lock. Oh well, those things are junk anyway as far as I am concerned. The clutches wear out in about a day. Honestly thought it was an open diff when I got it. Hooked up the cheap Harbor Freight pressure washer to the hot water tank and started washing. Got it down to the bare metal and started crafting things for it. Here is how it turned out.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1902_zpsxj7vlmfd.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1901_zpsz71sfjpi.jpg

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1903_zpsufkudrvq.jpg

I decided to go with a three link in the rear. I know, most go with four links. And many cross the links so they don't have to run a track bar. But I have a nice exhaust system and I don't want to give it up. My front three link works so well, I just had to do it again.

The overall goal of my build has always been to have an awesome trail rig, but good highway manners. We load up the Jeep and go camp and wheel for a week or more at at time so I need the best of both worlds. Besides, I drive it daily anyway. Now since my has gone off the deep end with camping gear, we have outgrown the Jeep and need the pickup for those long camping trips. And setting up camp and taking it down takes half the day. Enough of that. The build is now going towards the ultimate overlander. So, some changes are in order.

Most overland sites say use stiff springs etc for those loads. They don't get off road much though. My idea is to load up, go half way up the Rubicon, Snake Lake or Hell Hole trails and set up camp in thirty minutes then continue on the next day.

Springs of choice for this is not the usual. These coils are off a Ford Aerostar. They are 19" long and will allow 14" of travel. I stet the weight of the Jeep on them and I got the height about right, but I think I will augment them with overload shocks. They seem just a bit soft. Great rock springs though. The vans I have followed ride smooth. And for $20 for springs at the pick and pull, why not. Shocks of choice are my usual Monroe Magnums, with progressive 10 stage valving.

That is all for now until the money tree bears fruit again. Until then the leaf perches will go on also so I can mount it without springing for the $600 the links will cost me.

denverd1
12-04-2016, 09:02 PM
That's awesome! Always wondered how overlanders handled the weight.

So what's on your list? Cook station out back? fridge, awning? Roof top?

Serious crawling, camp anywhere. I dig it Steve

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

4.3LXJ
12-04-2016, 09:04 PM
I have the fridge, been using that for years. But rooftop tent and pull out kitchen, rear awning. Have the portable shower

XJ Wheeler
12-05-2016, 03:26 AM
Liking this mod. I'm sure it'll be more balanced with coils all around. Look forward to the progress!

Sent via messenger pigeon. I talk, he types.

Pookapotamus
12-14-2016, 08:05 AM
You will love coils all around! Yes they can't take as much weight, but that just means you have to travel lighter!

We need to start a 2 door 4 coil club!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4.3LXJ
12-14-2016, 10:34 AM
But of course. We are exclusive after all :D

Pookapotamus
12-14-2016, 01:13 PM
Don't worry, the young'uns will follow us trend setters!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4.3LXJ
12-14-2016, 01:14 PM
But of course. :D

denverd1
12-14-2016, 03:12 PM
you started tearing the cargo area up yet?

4.3LXJ
12-14-2016, 05:15 PM
No, full of diff parts :D

That won't start until I get the axle project done. Probably be the next winter project. I need to wheel it this summer :D

4.3LXJ
12-14-2016, 08:24 PM
Got my new rotors back from the machinist. I needed a slightly larger center hole for a regular D44 than that of the WJ D44HD. Then I drilled a new 5X5.5 pattern in them to match the old 44 pattern. After a minor bevel of the outside edge of the larger hub, they fit just right. WJ long studs going in tomorrow I think

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/IMG_1904_zpsmtg6cnx7.jpg

4.3LXJ
01-23-2017, 05:40 PM
Did a little fabrication the past few days. First had to redo the shock mounts on the rear housing :bang::bang::bang: Put them on the wrong side of the axle tube. After messing around with that for a week, I finally got something I like I think.

One of the major upgrades is the brakes. After whittling on a big piece of half inch plate, I got these brackets done for the WJ rear calipers, just in time for Valentines Day :D After I put these on last summer, I have been in love with my brakes. I actually have to let up on the pedal a little or it will stop too fast :bacondance: Ought to be just right for taller tires.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1910_zpswqiz8tb5.jpg

Then I started on the front brake brackets. Fortunately unlike our D30 knuckles, the D44 knuckle has bolt on brake brackets. The Scout II brakes would be an upgrade from stock disc brakes, but the WJ brakes are bigger and new technology. And I love em. So started to make the new brackets.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1906_zps6l22uu6p.jpg

Lots of fun with the drill press to come up with the bracket base.

The finished product

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1909_zpsjmplxz0d.jpg

These have to fit snug to work right. They came out just right. A nice snug fit, but doesn't require a BFG. (Bonus, check out the Preying Mantis egg case on the hub at top)

bluedragon436
01-23-2017, 08:15 PM
Looking good, Steve!! Need to come over there so you can teach me some skills...

4.3LXJ
01-23-2017, 08:58 PM
Looking good, Steve!! Need to come over there so you can teach me some skills...

With all the wheeling here in my back yard, you might not learn much :rolleye0012:

bluedragon436
01-23-2017, 09:15 PM
With all the wheeling here in my back yard, you might not learn much :rolleye0012:

Can always learn something I'm sure... as far as wheeling.. but I'm sure I can learn something fabrication/welding wise

4.3LXJ
01-23-2017, 09:17 PM
I'm sure something would rub off. I know you have family ties back there, but you could still get stationed at Beale for a few years. The best wheeling in the country is 2-3 hrs away depending on whether you go north or south

denverd1
01-24-2017, 09:45 AM
Steve, looking good! shock mounts: sounds like something i'd do

4.3LXJ
01-24-2017, 10:21 AM
Steve, looking good! shock mounts: sounds like something i'd do

Yeah, it was all a great plan until I remembered the track bar and how little room I had for it :bang:

4.3LXJ
03-03-2017, 08:11 PM
So, got my front rotors back from the machinist Turned the center out for the front hub and drilled the new 5X5.5 bolt pattern in.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1916_zpsl5dqnuuh.jpg

Then after my third attempt, I finally got a bracket I liked for the front brake caliper.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1918_zps9g3w5ide.jpg

These calipers are in two pieces. The bracket that holds the pads shown above and

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Dana%2044%20Axles/IMG_1921_zpsxcbmpjmi.jpg

the caliper itself. This is the way all the new stuff is going for better performing brakes. Those WJ brakes have about twice the stopping power of stock XJ brakes and about 50% more than the Scout II brakes, even though those were standard 1/2 ton pickup brakes of the day

denverd1
03-04-2017, 07:13 PM
Looks great

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

jonb8
03-14-2017, 09:50 AM
Very cool,

4.3LXJ
03-14-2017, 10:47 AM
Thanks Jon