Best lockers

[Voldemort]

I will be going to bigger gears in the red XJ soon and when I do I'm wanting to put a locker in with it. But, it will be doing alot of on road duty as well as off. So I need to find out (from guys with experience) which is the best locker for my application? Here is a video I found on youtube about diffs also
YouTube - Eaton Locking Differential Demonstration

[2000XJ]

I'd say that you have alot of thinking to do because there are many options.

You can go with auto lockers (lunchbox lockers), air lockers, electric lockers, full carrier lockers, and spools.

I don't recommend spools if you're going to do any on-road driving.

Lunchbox lockers are great and cheap. Lockright, Powertrax, and Aussie a few great brands. These lockers simply replace your spider gears and automatically engage once the throttle is applied. I have this in the rear of my XJ, and it works great. It takes a little getting used to in slippery weather like rain and snow, but it becomes second nature after a while. A lunchbox in the front axle is OK, but you have to understand that it makes steering in snow and rain VERY difficult if you have your 4WD engaged.

Selectable Lockers (Air/Electric) are great because you can pick when you want them on and when you want them off. In terms of price, they're the most expensive. The brand I'd recommend is ARB. They make good quality products, and they're very strong lockers. They are pricey though. This would be a great option to have in the front axle.

There are also full carrier lockers like Detroit. These are great, and very strong. They are not as cheap as Lunchbox lockers, but not as pricey as Selectables.

I would avoid the spools because your basically tying both axle shafts together, and it's always locked. It's not fun to drive on the street, and you'll wear your tires faster.

[Voldemort]

Thanks man that is the type of info I was looking for.

[cher96]

For the front

Go with a Selectable for the front... The very best is the OX Locker and is less expensive than an Air or Electric Selectable.

No wires to short out. No hoses to crack or brake or Air Pump to worry about.

On slippery, rainy, icy, or snowy surfaces a selectable is always the best for the front. When unselected the wheels spin like an open diff and you will not have to worry about it suddenly locking up and taking you where you have never been before. I will never go with anything else but a selectable for the front.


http://i39.tinypic.com/2usd2tw.jpg


* 100% MADE IN THE USA.
* Lockers are made of 8620 steel. SAME AS RING AND PINION GEARS
* Only FORGED and heat treated steel. NO CAST PARTS HERE
* Exclusive 4 spider gear design on ALL OX Lockers.
* HEAVY DUTY Steel Diff Cover. Included FREE with each locker
* “Back Cut” gear tooth locking ring and locking gear. DESIGNED FOR MAXIMUM LOCKING FORCE!
* 100% mechanical design with cable and shifter.
* Optional Air Actuation System.


If you choose you could go with any of these options:

Manual shifter OX-SHFT

Air actuation system OXA1001

Electronic shifter OXE1001


OX Lockers for the following aplications:


Dana 30 3.73 and up, 27 spline OXD30C373H-27

Dana 30 3.73 and up, 30 spline OXD30C373H-30

Dana 35 3.55 and up, 27 spline OXD35C355H-27

Dana 35 3.55 and up, 30 spline OXD35C355H-30

Dana 44 3.73 and dn,30 spline OXD44C373D-30

Dana 44 3.92 and up, 30 spline OXD44C392H-30

Dana 44 3.92 and up, 33 spline OXD44C392H-33

Dana 44 JK, Non Rubicon, 30 spline OXD44JK-30

Dana 60 4.10 and dn, 35 spline OXD60C354H-35

Dana 60 4.10 and dn, 30 spline OXD60C354H-30

Dana 60 4.56 and up, 35 spline OXD60C456H-35

Dana 60 4.56 and up, 30 spline OXD60C456H-30

Ford 8.8 2.73 and up, 31 spline OXF88C273H-31

AMC 20 3.08 and up, 29 spline OXA20C308H-29

Yes, they are working on a Chrysler 8.25 Locker and its in testing right now.


http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/Home/tabid/365/Default.aspx


OX

440 S. Pinellas Ave

Tarpon Springs, FL 34689


Technical Support: 727-230-7803

Fax: 727-232-3721


Email at:

[email protected]


Hope this helps.

[Voldemort]

Looks like all I need now is a price and to know if they make one for the ford 8.8?

[Voldemort]

OK yes they do make a 8.8 one but holy Shiznit $850 with another $110 for the cord!! I would have to win the lotto to afford two of those and gears. They seem to be the best but I do not know if I could get them Back to looking at ARB.

[cher96]

You'll have to spend there, too. Sorry.

ARB Locker kit plus Air Pump= Big Bucks.

[Voldemort]

You'll have to spend there, too. Sorry.

ARB Locker kit plus Air Pump= Big Bucks.
Looks like I am screwed I may have to go with a lunch box in the rear and just re-gear the front for a while.

[cher96]

Looks like I am screwed I may have to go with a lunch box in the rear and just re-gear the front for a while.

Unfortunately, I am in the same boat.:smiley-gen159:

[muddeprived]

Where are you from BigBad? If there's no snow around you, go with an auto up front and in back. Like cher96, i don't recommend auto lockers up front if you deal with snow because it's very difficult to make normal turns. The front end feels like it's on ice and your turning radius is cut short. No snow? no problem. I run an auto up front and I deal with snow but I lose my confidence when i put it in 4wd on the street. My gf refuses to drive it in the snow. Rear lockers are like using crutches, it's very awkward at first but then you get used to it and it becomes the norm.

[Mudderoy]

For the front

Go with a Selectable for the front... The very best is the OX Locker and is less expensive than an Air or Electric Selectable.

No wires to short out. No hoses to crack or brake or Air Pump to worry about.

On slippery, rainy, icy, or snowy surfaces a selectable is always the best for the front. When unselected the wheels spin like an open diff and you will not have to worry about it suddenly locking up and taking you where you have never been before. I will never go with anything else but a selectable for the front.


http://i39.tinypic.com/2usd2tw.jpg


* 100% MADE IN THE USA.
* Lockers are made of 8620 steel. SAME AS RING AND PINION GEARS
* Only FORGED and heat treated steel. NO CAST PARTS HERE
* Exclusive 4 spider gear design on ALL OX Lockers.
* HEAVY DUTY Steel Diff Cover. Included FREE with each locker
* “Back Cut” gear tooth locking ring and locking gear. DESIGNED FOR MAXIMUM LOCKING FORCE!
* 100% mechanical design with cable and shifter.
* Optional Air Actuation System.


If you choose you could go with any of these options:

Manual shifter OX-SHFT

Air actuation system OXA1001

Electronic shifter OXE1001


OX Lockers for the following aplications:


Dana 30 3.73 and up, 27 spline OXD30C373H-27

Dana 30 3.73 and up, 30 spline OXD30C373H-30

Dana 35 3.55 and up, 27 spline OXD35C355H-27

Dana 35 3.55 and up, 30 spline OXD35C355H-30

Dana 44 3.73 and dn,30 spline OXD44C373D-30

Dana 44 3.92 and up, 30 spline OXD44C392H-30

Dana 44 3.92 and up, 33 spline OXD44C392H-33

Dana 44 JK, Non Rubicon, 30 spline OXD44JK-30

Dana 60 4.10 and dn, 35 spline OXD60C354H-35

Dana 60 4.10 and dn, 30 spline OXD60C354H-30

Dana 60 4.56 and up, 35 spline OXD60C456H-35

Dana 60 4.56 and up, 30 spline OXD60C456H-30

Ford 8.8 2.73 and up, 31 spline OXF88C273H-31

AMC 20 3.08 and up, 29 spline OXA20C308H-29

Yes, they are working on a Chrysler 8.25 Locker and its in testing right now.


http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/Home/tabid/365/Default.aspx


OX

440 S. Pinellas Ave

Tarpon Springs, FL 34689


Technical Support: 727-230-7803

Fax: 727-232-3721


Email at:

[email protected]


Hope this helps.

If they get one out for a 8.25 I might switch my "to do list" from ARB to OX. I like the idea of a cable running to the locker better than I like the idea of an air line, air compressor, blah blah blah...

[TeXJ]

I have a powertrax no-slip in the rear of mine and i love it.

[Voldemort]

Where are you from BigBad? If there's no snow around you, go with an auto up front and in back. Like cher96, i don't recommend auto lockers up front if you deal with snow because it's very difficult to make normal turns. The front end feels like it's on ice and your turning radius is cut short. No snow? no problem. I run an auto up front and I deal with snow but I lose my confidence when i put it in 4wd on the street. My gf refuses to drive it in the snow. Rear lockers are like using crutches, it's very awkward at first but then you get used to it and it becomes the norm.

See I live in Ohio We get at LEAST two big snows a year and with everyone having money probs the city has been doing a shitty job salting. So I guess front lunch box is out too? So I might as well just put the 4.88's in and just wait till I have the money for the OX set ups.:confused:

[BlueXJ]

Ox is nice but I think I would prefer the electric lockers from Ected or a similar locker. I would think that trail debris could kink that cable locking mechanism. An electric wire can be pulled or an airline get disconnected. Now of those which is easier to repair on the trail? That is pretty weak but that is my criteria. Lunchbox (Aussie) in the rear and Ected up front would be my ideal setup.

[firehawk]

Question I have is, does a auto locker in the rear diff have a different 'feel" to it compared to a limited slip/positrack?

[Mudderoy]

I've read time and time again, yes, but you get used to it.

The powertrax noslip was the one I was going to get for the longest time, but reading about having the ability to select open or locked really won me over.

It depends on the funds available in the future. If I can afford it I'm going selectable front and rear. If not I may just have to go with the auto in the rear.

I figure worse case I could always take it out and sell it.

[BlueXJ]

Question I have is, does a auto locker in the rear diff have a different 'feel" to it compared to a limited slip/positrack?

Everything I can read says yes they are different than a posi. But I have also read that once you get used to them that they are hardly noticeable until you need them then you see how great they are.:thumbsup:

[TeXJ]

OK, when you say auto locker for the rear are you referring to say a powertrax noslip/detroit, etc... a limited slip and a positrack are the same thing. GM called their limited slips, positracks.

[BlueXJ]

OK, when you say auto locker for the rear are you referring to say a powertrax noslip/detroit, etc... a limited slip and a positrack are the same thing. GM called their limited slips, positracks.

Most of the autolockers are gear driven but the positrack was a clutchpack and thus were usually worn out in a few years of normal driving. Clutchpacks can be rebuilt but that was an expensive undertaking in my youth so most were never dealt with, just ignored when worn out.

[Voldemort]

Everyone I have talked to that has them say you get use to it very quick. I'm just mixed up about it I may go with the lunch box in the rear and then wait till I can do a selectable for the front. I dunno

[Mudderoy]

That is what I was going to do at first, but I heard that open is best for snow and ice. We don't get that much down here but when we do I'd like to be able to drive the XJ. Selectable is the best of all worlds.

[muddeprived]

See I live in Ohio We get at LEAST two big snows a year and with everyone having money probs the city has been doing a shitty job salting. So I guess front lunch box is out too? So I might as well just put the 4.88's in and just wait till I have the money for the OX set ups.:confused:

You should be happy with the lousy salt job. Salt SUCKS. ;)

If you don't find yourself using 4x4 on snowy roads very often then lock it with an auto if you prefer that. Where I live, there are alot of inclines and i can't get going without using 4x4 so i experience alot of front end sliding.

[Voldemort]

You should be happy with the lousy salt job. Salt SUCKS. ;)

If you don't find yourself using 4x4 on snowy roads very often then lock it with an auto if you prefer that. Where I live, there are alot of inclines and i can't get going without using 4x4 so i experience alot of front end sliding.

Salt does suck I can not tell you how many times I have replaced brake lines and fuel lines because of rot from salt. I am a master at the double flare with my $20 flare tool. I really do not know what to do right now I'm going to get the red XJ painted and lifted and then I'll start worrying about the gears at stuff.

[TeXJ]

My Ideal would have the noslip in the rear(which i currently have) and a selectable in the front. If only we had locking hubs....

[Mudderoy]

With a selectable in the front why would you need locking hubs?

[TeXJ]

it would be cheaper to have a detroit or another lunch box locker if the jeep came with locking hubs, but alas is does not, so a selectable locker it is.

[muddeprived]

it would be cheaper to have a detroit or another lunch box locker if the jeep came with locking hubs, but alas is does not, so a selectable locker it is.

Warn and I think milemarker sells locking hub kits fyi. Just throwin this out there in case someone feels like spending $800 :)

[Mudderoy]

it would be cheaper to have a detroit or another lunch box locker if the jeep came with locking hubs, but alas is does not, so a selectable locker it is.

Well you can put a auto locker in the front diff. You control wheather it is ON or OFF with your transfer case.

2HI no auto locker in front.

So you can do auto lockers in both diffs, but if you have a NP242 transfer case you basically are disabling the Part Time 4x4.

NP231 doesn't have part time so you don't lose anything, well maybe to make turns off road, lol.

I agree though, locking hubs would make it the best of both worlds, functional and cheaper. I'm confused as to why the aftermarket locking hubs would be so high though.

[muddeprived]

Well you can put a auto locker in the front diff. You control wheather it is ON or OFF with your transfer case.

2HI no auto locker in front.

So you can do auto lockers in both diffs, but if you have a NP242 transfer case you basically are disabling the Part Time 4x4.

NP231 doesn't have part time so you don't lose anything, well maybe to make turns off road, lol.

I agree though, locking hubs would make it the best of both worlds, functional and cheaper. I'm confused as to why the aftermarket locking hubs would be so high though.


Replaces all front non-serviceable hub assemblies found on many Jeeps. This conversion kit improves the vehicle's flat towing and reduces driveline wear by allowing you to disengage the front driveline completely. WARN high strength alloy axles help to increase front end strength and durability. Conversion Kit for vehicles that retain the stock 5 on 4.5" wheel bolt pattern: This Kit allows you to use WARN flange mount standard hubs on the factory bolt pattern. Not recommended for tires larger than 32".

It swaps out your factory hub assemblies and also you benefit from less wear and tear on your front driveline. The axles will no longer spin in 2wd. It's pricey but worth it in the long run. No more swapping out $$ hub assemblies. The hub conversion kit is easily rebuilt.

[Mudderoy]

It swaps out your factory hub assemblies and also you benefit from less wear and tear on your front driveline. The axles will no longer spin in 2wd. It's pricey but worth it in the long run. No more swapping out $$ hub assemblies. The hub conversion kit is easily rebuilt.

Well I guess. Front bearings are about $300 by themselves. No bigger than 32"?!?!?! Wow that sucks.

[muddeprived]

Well I guess. Front bearings are about $300 by themselves. No bigger than 32"?!?!?! Wow that sucks.

I don't know if that's correct cuz the TJ i saw with this conversion was running 35's.

[Mudderoy]

Warn being safe I'm sure.

[TeXJ]

Warn and I think milemarker sells locking hub kits fyi. Just throwin this out there in case someone feels like spending $800 :)

yeah i know, but i wouldn't spend that much on a D30.

You could have a much better axle with the money that they want for the hub conversion

[muddeprived]

yeah i know, but i wouldn't spend that much on a D30.

You could have a much better axle with the money that they want for the hub conversion

True but if you are sticking with 33" or smaller than it would be worthwhile to upgrade to locking hubs, stronger shafts, and regear/locker. The dana 30 is a pretty good axle.

[TeXJ]

its pretty good but for that price go with a selectable locker.

[Mudderoy]

True but if you are sticking with 33" or smaller than it would be worthwhile to upgrade to locking hubs, stronger shafts, and regear/locker. The dana 30 is a pretty good axle.

Chrome molly axles, locker and 35's no good?

[muddeprived]

Chrome molly axles, locker and 35's no good?

Axles would handle 35's but at that size i'd start worrying about the trussing and all that unless it's not gonna be beat on.

[TeXJ]

you could do 35's with a d30, just be easy on the throttle

[muddeprived]

you could do 35's with a d30, just be easy on the throttle

I'm sure that'd take the fun away by having limitations when wheeling. I'd rather have nothing to worry about when wheeling, almost like avoiding a dana-35 equipped trail rig.

[2000XJ]

Well you can put a auto locker in the front diff. You control wheather it is ON or OFF with your transfer case.

2HI no auto locker in front.

So you can do auto lockers in both diffs, but if you have a NP242 transfer case you basically are disabling the Part Time 4x4.

NP231 doesn't have part time so you don't lose anything, well maybe to make turns off road, lol.

I agree though, locking hubs would make it the best of both worlds, functional and cheaper. I'm confused as to why the aftermarket locking hubs would be so high though.

Don't mean to nit-pick Mudd, but I think you mean that it will prevent the driver from using the Full-Time function due to the 48/52 split in power. The Part-Time function will work just fine.


Chrome molly axles, locker and 35's no good?

I'd run it, but like Deprived says below, I'd truss it first. I've seen a couple D30's that were bent due to too much tire and no truss. The D30 is strong, but you're really at the limits with it being locked and on 35's... even with chromo shafts.


Axles would handle 35's but at that size i'd start worrying about the trussing and all that unless it's not gonna be beat on.

[Mudderoy]

Don't mean to nit-pick Mudd, but I think you mean that it will prevent the driver from using the Full-Time function due to the 48/52 split in power. The Part-Time function will work just fine.



I'd run it, but like Deprived says below, I'd truss it first. I've seen a couple D30's that were bent due to too much tire and no truss. The D30 is strong, but you're really at the limits with it being locked and on 35's... even with chromo shafts.

No nit pick away. I get left and right confused also. Full time is 4x4 with front and rear diffs not locked together, and part time is 4x4 with front and read diffs locked together. So you'd lose full time, or you REALLY REALLY wouldn't like it with a auto front locker. lol