My joy and sorrow

[EtronX]

New to the XJ world. I bought my 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport 2.5 TD back in March. The plan is to make this our daily driver.

The car sat in a barn from 2003 till 2017. It’s rust free, and only had 119.900 km on the clock when I bought it.

First my plan is to go over the car and get it into perfect running condition. Then I guess there will be some modifications [emoji16]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/6793d8e4969fff7793cdbb6d7b337182.jpg


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[4.3LXJ]

Mods we can help you with, although we have a certain bias on that that might be specific to the US. Not sure any of us know anything about the diesel though. Not offered in the US as an option

[EtronX]

Mods we can help you with, although we have a certain bias on that that might be specific to the US. Not sure any of us know anything about the diesel though. Not offered in the US as an option

Thanks for the reply [emoji1303]

Regarding the 2.5 VM Motori diesel; it runs pretty OK. Not much I am planning to do with that.

My plans for the car is to make it a solid DD. Basically go through the whole car from now until Fall. Make sure everything is a OK before winter sets in here in Norway. Lots of salt on the roads then [emoji37]

I have done some work on the car until now. I will make a post about that. Basically preventive maintenance.

My plans for upgrade is stiffeners on the frame, maybe a 2” lift, stiffeners for the steering box, etc... In this area I will probably seek some advice from the knowledgeable crowd at this forum [emoji1303]


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[EtronX]

So, I am trying to to one thing every day. Today it was the window lift on the driver’s side. The old one was working, but it made a “skipping” sound when the window was at the top. My plan was to turn the cable around in order to avoid the worn down end of the cable. As it turns out a new window lift was delivered with the car when I bought it. Installed that one [emoji1303]

Old one out.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200502/d0b44ab6cabbeb27f25c79274fdb80f2.jpg

New one in.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200502/bdd7542a6dcd95ed579cf98ef5c65fed.jpg


Now the old Weber is being fired up. Lamb chops it will be today.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200502/47c63bc002c516ba8c66069927717d2b.jpg


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[Mudderoy]

Wow what a find. Very nice, at least from this image.

[4.3LXJ]

How did you attach your lift. Terminology here is regulator. I have used 1/4" allen head bolts and self locking nuts, but I went back to "automotive pop rivets" The shank splits into three pieces so it will never back out.

[EtronX]

How did you attach your lift. Terminology here is regulator. I have used 1/4" allen head bolts and self locking nuts, but I went back to "automotive pop rivets" The shank splits into three pieces so it will never back out.

I am not quite with you here [emoji15] English is not my first language [emoji849]

If you mean the thing that moves the window up and down, I replaced the whole thing. New motor and mechanism. It was just bolt on. Then hook up the electrical plug. Now the window moves up and down by use of the switch in the door panel.


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[EtronX]

Wow what a find. Very nice, at least from this image.

It’s a pretty good car, but still 21 years old. I did the x-bolts (U-joints?) on the two front axles. Every nut and bolt made it clear that they had been in the same place for some time... They had no intention of being removed without some persuasion.

The main thing is that the car is rust free [emoji1303]Thus a good start.


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[4.3LXJ]

I am not quite with you here [emoji15] English is not my first language [emoji849]

If you mean the thing that moves the window up and down, I replaced the whole thing. New motor and mechanism. It was just bolt on. Then hook up the electrical plug. Now the window moves up and down by use of the switch in the door panel.


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Yes, I know. None of the Scandinavian languages are my first language either. Here is an article on pop rivets.

https://henrysautowarehouse.com/automotive-rivets-explained/

The automotive are the peel split type under Specialty Rivets

[EtronX]

Yes, I know. None of the Scandinavian languages are my first language either. Here is an article on pop rivets.

https://henrysautowarehouse.com/automotive-rivets-explained/

The automotive are the peel split type under Specialty Rivets

Thanks for the info about rivets. I thought a rivet was a rivet [emoji16] Learning something new every day.

Regarding the regulator, I did not use any of the old parts. The new set came with new motor and lift mechanism. It was just bolt on.

I did though see a post here on the forum with a link on how to swap the spiral cable around. Doing that involved some riveting on the slider on the lift mechanism. My initial plan was to do this, but then I remembered that I had a new complete set laying somewhere. I took the easy way out.


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[EtronX]

The first things I did with the car after I drove it home was to take a good look under the car and in the engine bay. The motor was really dirty, and had what seemed like a small oil leak. Same with the transfer box. Also there was a small diesel leak from the #1 injector. It seemed like it came from the middle of the injector.

Small drops of motor oil between the engine and the AX15.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/8a61deac058f114aa1643f1821bed95e.jpg


Small leak from the NP231J

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/4c8a5c87f5a4d3ea6d73ea62a33fc9cc.jpg



I did a thorough clean of the car. Inside, outside and under. Except from the small leaks the car looked great and drove great. I did notice one thing though. When selecting 4H or 2L there was a strange sound when I accelerated. Like something was skipping somewhere. It was hard to place the location of the sound, but something was definitely not right. In 2H there was no sound.

My first plan was to change all the fluids on the car. Then I could also have a proper look under it. Check the driveshafts (propeller shafts?). Maybe one of the joints were the source of the funky sound? It had to be the front one, since there were no clanking sound when in 2H.

Before doing all this I decided to take the car for a proper long drive in order to get to know it, and to get a feel for the car. I filled the tank full for the trip. That’s when I noticed the car leaked diesel from the tank [emoji37][emoji37][emoji37]

Major leak from the diesel tank.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/ca19f38bfb9195ff8be59768f206875f.jpg



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[4.3LXJ]

We say here in America that Jeeps don't leak, they just mark their territory :D

The tank probably just needs a new O ring under the sending unit. Unfortunately it needs to be dropped down for that. The others look very minor.

[EtronX]

First things first. The leak from the tank had to be sorted. There was also a small problem when the tank was under half. Going uphill for a while the car would die. Basically run out of fuel. Then I had to vent at the diesel filter and pump some 150-200 times to get the diesel back into the filter. Next steep hill and it would stop again. This really pissed me off. I also noticed this did not happen with over half tank. This was something to ponder about.

Finally I dropped the tank and took a look. The leak was obvious. The rubber gasket around the fuel module was only half on. Half of it inside the tank. I took everything out, and thoroughly cleaned the inside of the tank. Lots of sand came out.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/c8b91fcbfae0e38ffc8819d063b8d130.jpg


Put the tank back in and hooked everything up again. Then it dawned on me that I probably did not route the vent hose properly [emoji37] Tank out again. Routed the vent hose properly. Tank back in again. After this I could fill the tank full with no leaks. The engine still died when going uphill when under half tank [emoji15]


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[EtronX]

I did a lot of googeling regarding the fuel module and why the car would stop going uphill. No good answers came to me. There is no fuel pump in the tank on a diesel. I decided to solve the problem temporarily by keeping the tank full.

My next step was to change all the fluids on the car. First was the cooling system. It was flushed, and then refilled with the proper coolant. The trick with the VM diesel is to fill the cooling system with the nose of the car pointing downhill. That gets the reservoir at the highest piont so that the coolant fills the area around the aft cylinder. If you don’t do that there will be air in that area, and the cylinder will run hot. Known problem with these engines.

Next was changing oil on the AX15 gearbox and the NP231J transfer case. The oil from the gearbox looked fine and the correct amount came out. Refilled that one. When draining the transfer case almost no oil came out, and what little that came out did not look good. “Huston, we have a problem”. For how long the gearbox had been running low on oil, I don’t know. I filled it up to the proper level and decided to keep a close eye on it.

I also changed the oil on the front and rear axle. Those looked OK. Cleaned everything properly, and sealed them up.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/d34fe7c28ef61d8dfbca73f44cf9a98e.jpg


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[EtronX]

When I did the front axle I noticed the wheels were hard to turn when I had the car on a stand. I decided to pull the wheel bearings off and also check the U-joints on the two axles.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/a210af634974a7646acdafaa722be819.jpg



Getting the nut off the axles was a PITA. I tried with an extension arm and jumped on it with my 110 kgs (thats 242 lbs for the metrically impared) It didn’t bulge a bit. Off to the local toystore where I found a 460 NM impact driver. That did the job [emoji1303]

I got everything apart. The wheel bearings looked OK. The U-joint did not. I could hardly move them. Next day new joints came, and I installed those. Cleaned everything. Painted the wheel bearing hubs red, and put everything back together. I also greased all grease points I could find.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/f0a58f46e1a6a6e5bf14a36403ce46b5.jpg



In my silent mind I was hoping this would cure the knocking/skipping sound in 4H/2L. It did not [emoji37]


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[EtronX]

After a lot of thinking, googeling and trying to identify where the skipping sound came from, I settled on the NP231J. I reasoned that running that thing with little or no oil in it would stretch the chain. I decided to do a full rebuild of the case.

I removed the case and took it apart. All the gears and sprockets looked OK. The chain did not. Hopefully this is where the problem lies.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/5d7ef8c3e981484c7382f7de7c5b961e.jpg


The case has now been properly cleaned. The parts with bearings, seals and chain will arrive on Tuesday [emoji1303]


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[EtronX]

While waiting on the rebuild kit for the transfer case, I decided to sort out the fuel problem. Out with the tank for the third time. I am getting pretty good at this now. 10 minutes and the tank is out [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

I took a closer look at the fuel module. It is shaped like a reservoir. I figured it is designed like that in order to be able to deliver fuel when driving uphill/downhill or on winding roads. The tank is flat at the bottom, and with less than half tank the fuel is along the edges of the tank when turning due to centrifugal forces. Up/down gravity pulls the diesel away from the pickup point. My conclusion was that the reservoir was leaking.

I don’t think the fuel module is meant to be taken apart, but it was an easy job. I filled some diesel in it and the diesel leaked out at the bottom.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/5469c87ff14f76007e2e8d4403e1ffa7.jpg


I then took everything apart. In the bottom there is a small rubber one way valve. That was the source of all my gray hair. I got everything cleaned up, and put it back together. Refilled the reservoir and no leaks [emoji1591][emoji1591][emoji1591]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/15032f8c98297ad68e6896d595ccbd33.jpg

Hopefully this problem is now fixed once and for all [emoji1317]


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[EtronX]

I did one more thing today. Sometimes when driving my RPM and speed nedle goes to zero. After a while the “Airbag” light comes on. The other needles just freeze. Then if I turn or hit a bump it’s all back again. Probably a fishy connection somewhere.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/8720fd01400587c078cc22f6e32db88e.jpg


I took all the connectors I could find apart. Basically tore the whole dashboard apart. Cleaned everything with the proper spray and put it back together. Time will show if this cured the problem.


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[4.3LXJ]

You are certainly getting into this. Interesting how the diesel tank is. Much different than our American gas tanks. We have our pumps in tank

[EtronX]

Finally the master repair kit for the NP231J came. Full rebuild will start tomorrow [emoji1303] Did not take picture of the chain, but it’s there [emoji16]

14858

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[EtronX]

You are certainly getting into this. Interesting how the diesel tank is. Much different than our American gas tanks. We have our pumps in tank

Well, the tank is basically a black plastic tank with a flat bottom and a recessed pickup point on the top. It takes a lot of beating. Just flexes when you hit stuff. If I remember right the capacity is about 20 US gal.

Since the Diesel engine has a high pressure pump on the engine, there is no need for a fuel pump in the tank.

14860

I don't know why the picture came up sideways...

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[EtronX]

Here goes nothing.

EtronX does things he doesn’t know how to do.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200505/57d93cbce61a136c62de993639662a4d.jpg

[4.3LXJ]

Make sure you have good snap ring pliers

[EtronX]

Make sure you have good snap ring pliers

I didn’t [emoji37][emoji37][emoji37]

[EtronX]

I had a good day yesterday. The transfer case was put back together.


First all mating surfaces were properly cleaned and degreased.

14861


Then seals and bearings were replaced. This one was a PITA. Had to use the Dremel and cut the bearing in order to get it out.

14862 14863 14864


Then every nut and bolt were torqued to the required specifications.

14865


All sealed up. Curing on the bench for 24 hours before install. Cant wait to test the car again. Hopefully the knocking sound in 4H/4L is gone.

[4.3LXJ]

Good job on the tcase

[EtronX]

Everything is now back in the car. I am delighted that it runs like a charm. No more "knocking" sound when in 4H/4L. The t-case is also a lot more quiet. Very happy with the result.

14867


By the way, the fuel module operation was a success [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303]

[4.3LXJ]

:congrats:

[EtronX]

:congrats:

Thanks :beer:

[EtronX]

Now the XJ runs pretty good. Still a small leak in the #1 injector, but that will be sorted soon. A new one will set me back close to $600. I think I will try to fix it myself first, and I that goes sideways buy a new one.

Where to go with the car next? I have some ideas. Please come with inputs and recommendations :D

My plan is to go with a modest lift kit. This will be a DD. There will be no need to go overboard with the car. I have this kit in mind:

https://dpgoffroad.com/product/2-5-ultimate-xj-old-man-emu-hybrid-kit/


Next is to strengthen the car. Weld some stiffeners to the frame. Here I have this in mind:

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/XJRAIL.html and this: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2093.html


I would also like to strengthen the steering a bit. Now it is a bit "sloppy", but I guess new bushings will help here in addition to this kit:

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2237.html and this: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1768.html


Are there any other "must have" items I need? Any "must do" modifications? All inputs will be highly appreciated :-)


Stay safe :thumbsup:

[4.3LXJ]

Old Man Emu is good stuff. Can't go wrong there and they have a reputation for a good ride

Ruffstuff is a good outfit too. Manufactured within driving distance of me

The steering kit though in my opinion is not a good design. That type of Y link will give you tie rod roll regardless of the poly add ons to the tie rod ends. The best thing to do to upgrade your steering is to go with the V8 grand cherokee tie rod and keep your drag link which is strong enough. That tie rod or an aftermarket equivalent will give you extra strength where you need it and not change the drivability. The tie rod ends themselves almost never break. What they do is wear out from lack of lubrication

[EtronX]

The steering kit though in my opinion is not a good design. That type of Y link will give you tie rod roll regardless of the poly add ons to the tie rod ends. The best thing to do to upgrade your steering is to go with the V8 grand cherokee tie rod and keep your drag link which is strong enough. That tie rod or an aftermarket equivalent will give you extra strength where you need it and not change the drivability. The tie rod ends themselves almost never break. What they do is wear out from lack of lubrication


Roger that [emoji1303]

I see some folks change the steering gear to one from the Durango. Also they mount a strengthening plate to the frame. Any thoughts about that?

As it is now the steering is a bit sloppy. I estimate around 1 inch of play in the steering wheel. It’s not crisp. I would like to tighten things up a bit.


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[4.3LXJ]

The Durango steering box is also a Saginaw steering box but with a larger 4" hydraulic piston in it. You gain about 49% in steering force on the drag link. A good upgrade, although generally not necessary. Most of the plates are replacements for the aluminum plate between the steering box and frame. I am still running mine, but I keep it tight. Yes an external plate is a good idea. It is possible to pull the bolts through the frame in some off road situations, generally with large tires and rocks. As for the play, there is an adjustment on the top. Takes an open ended wrench for the top. 5/8" here in the US and IIRC a 5/16" allen wrench for the allen screw. Loosen the nut, use the allen to run the adjustment screw down until you see no play in the sector shaft but not so tight as to make the steering stiff.

[EtronX]

I’ve been driving the car quite a bit lately. Everything now works like a charm [emoji1303]. Very happy with it.

In a not to distant future the rest of the modifications will start.


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[4.3LXJ]

Glad you got it sorted out

[EtronX]

It’s been quiet here for a while. The Cherokee has been on the back burner, but did some work today.

Got the steering adjusted a bit. Not so much slack in it now. Thanks for the info 4.3LXJ [emoji1303]

I also took apart the #1 injector. It was leaking more and more. I decided to give it a try to fix it, since a new one is rather expensive [emoji15] Worked like a charm.

Next on the list, when I get the time, is Raptor bedliner on the car.

Below is a picture of what has been occupying me lately [emoji2]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200612/d0248971fe59a4fc4ef6ab38820d1068.jpg

1991 Toyota Land Cruiser 4,2 TD [emoji1303]


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[EtronX]

I also got a couple of keys made for the car. My local locksmith cloned the original key. $200 for both. That’s under half price of what my local Jeep dealer wanted for one key [emoji849]


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