Timken unit bearkings an 35" tires

[Mudderoy]

Who here is running Timken unit bearing and 35x12.5 tires?

Any issue with longevity?

[prerunner1982]

Somebody thinking of moving up in the tire world?

[Mudderoy]

Somebody thinking of moving up in the tire world?

Eventually but it's mainly to help someone on Facebook who has 35" tires and their Timken bearning is dead after 1.25 years.

[4.3LXJ]

The unit bearings do best with the 5.75" wheel offset. Start moving the tire out and it puts much more strain on the bearing, not to mention the width of the tire also. I don't think you can do better than Timken. This has been a problem with the unit bearing since the 70s when they started appearing on Dodge pickups. The 35s are really the limit you can safely put on these bearings. Good luck and carry a spare

[cantab27]

what steve said .......I chew through em ...stupid set up ....

[Mudderoy]

So the fix is either swap the axle or put on dana 44 outers?

I found it, Yukon spin free locking hub conversion kit...

[4.3LXJ]

You cannot use D44 outers. Different setup on the ball joints etc. However you can use the pre YJ D30 outers. That is strong enough to stand up to the abuse of 35s. You will need the knuckle, stub shaft, spindle, hub and bearings. In other words everything from the knuckle out.

[bluedragon436]

I'd say like any part... some can last for a few months, some could last a few years... on the same setup... Heck some could be trash straight out of the factory... it happens no matter the level of QC @ the factory.. But that being said... I do really hate the unit bearing design... Wish I had the money to upgrade beyond the unit bearings.. one day maybe...

[GreaseMonkey]

Timken makes most of the bearings you see today . id venture to say most other brands you would try would be running the same hearings just in a different warehouse . I run timkens on all my vehicles after various failed napa/oreilly brand hubs in short or no time st all . I would stay far away from any hubs that are the master pro line.

[Pookapotamus]

I think most of you know of my plans for an upgraded hub bearing, maybe I should be revisiting this again. The legalities of this scare me a bit though. Even putting a "not intended for use on road" sticker might not cover me in case of a failure.

That being said, it is very easy to upgrade this hub, its very basic. And to fab something up that is much beefier is really not that hard. Even just to upgrade it so there are actual seals in the hub would be a drastic improvement!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170525/f7cd1d62788492b21130cb79a90f6daf.jpg
This is a 3D model of the old hub bearing, as you can see, it is ball bearing on cast iron, only capable of approx 5000lbs of load. My original idea was to modify the housing to accept two tapered cone bearings that can take 30,000lbs loads.

But.... I might have some new insight to this....


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[Pookapotamus]

Been researching

The 513084 hub assembly from Timken has tapered roller bearings.

The ha597449 is only ball bearing.

Haven't figured out the difference yet, I am assuming 44 vs 35, but not sure.

You definitely want a tapered roller instead of a ball bearing, they can take much higher loads!


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[Pookapotamus]

It looks like the ha597449 is for later models

Go to www.showmetheparts.com/timken/

It is a parts reference for timken automotive


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[4.3LXJ]

tapered roller bearings will also take more torque on the long axis of the shaft

[Mudderoy]

I think most of you know of my plans for an upgraded hub bearing, maybe I should be revisiting this again. The legalities of this scare me a bit though. Even putting a "not intended for use on road" sticker might not cover me in case of a failure.

That being said, it is very easy to upgrade this hub, its very basic. And to fab something up that is much beefier is really not that hard. Even just to upgrade it so there are actual seals in the hub would be a drastic improvement!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170525/f7cd1d62788492b21130cb79a90f6daf.jpg
This is a 3D model of the old hub bearing, as you can see, it is ball bearing on cast iron, only capable of approx 5000lbs of load. My original idea was to modify the housing to accept two tapered cone bearings that can take 30,000lbs loads.

But.... I might have some new insight to this....


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I'm really surprised someone hasn't done this. I would think $200 to $250 for a set of HD units would sell well. Maybe it is due to the market being much smaller and loosing the $$$ from selling the same part over and over again.

[Pookapotamus]

Its not as easy as it sounds Tony, my original design called for two tapered rollers bearing using a stock housing, just like the Timken 513084 bearing, but to do this, first the tapered rollers are $45 a piece, then there is all the machining of the original hub, and purchase of the original hub, and the flaw in the design is that you cannot fit good seals into that package with the new tapered rollers. But then I had to look at how the machining weakened the original hub design, trying to find a proper sized bearing to fit without weakening the hub to the point of it being to weak to use.

All the work to an existing hub bearing to make it onto one of these bearings would probably be in the $250 to $300 range, Plus shipping costs, then I would have to make profit to continue making more. So in the end it would cost the consumer $350 to $400. yuck!

Then there was legalities, if I go ahead and make these bearings, and some one uses them, and one fails while driving and that vehicle takes out a bus load of nuns, Me being the designer, I would be at fault for that accident, possible even if i had warnings on the product to not use them on the road. Plus there is the use of the original housing, would that get me into trouble under copyright laws.

In the end it just does not seem practical to try and build these units when the Timken 513084 is on the market.

I did have plans for an extreme duty hub bearing, and to put it into perspective the stock hub bearing will take a static load of around 4000 to 5000 lbs, my extreme version would take a 60,000lbs static load, a bit on the overkill side, and very expensive to manufacture.

So really the best option we have is the Timken 513084, cheap and well made.

[Mudderoy]

Josh works for a company that does CNC, we'll just get him to do it.


Its not as easy as it sounds Tony, my original design called for two tapered rollers bearing using a stock housing, just like the Timken 513084 bearing, but to do this, first the tapered rollers are $45 a piece, then there is all the machining of the original hub, and purchase of the original hub, and the flaw in the design is that you cannot fit good seals into that package with the new tapered rollers. But then I had to look at how the machining weakened the original hub design, trying to find a proper sized bearing to fit without weakening the hub to the point of it being to weak to use.

All the work to an existing hub bearing to make it onto one of these bearings would probably be in the $250 to $300 range, Plus shipping costs, then I would have to make profit to continue making more. So in the end it would cost the consumer $350 to $400. yuck!

Then there was legalities, if I go ahead and make these bearings, and some one uses them, and one fails while driving and that vehicle takes out a bus load of nuns, Me being the designer, I would be at fault for that accident, possible even if i had warnings on the product to not use them on the road. Plus there is the use of the original housing, would that get me into trouble under copyright laws.

In the end it just does not seem practical to try and build these units when the Timken 513084 is on the market.

I did have plans for an extreme duty hub bearing, and to put it into perspective the stock hub bearing will take a static load of around 4000 to 5000 lbs, my extreme version would take a 60,000lbs static load, a bit on the overkill side, and very expensive to manufacture.

So really the best option we have is the Timken 513084, cheap and well made.

[Pookapotamus]

Deal!


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