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Infidel Edition
03-21-2017, 09:17 PM
There's 5 bolt positions that are obviously off..
And 1 that's just a hair off. Eyeball is on the money.

I get 5 of 6 bolts to easily finger tighten to flush
But the 6th won't go more than 2 turns before it's wedged.
Threads are good. Without the flywheel, all threaded into the holes were good.
I used the ratchet to work it a little...But it locks up.

I don't want to file the hole on the flywheel... And I don't want to strong arm the bolt in.

Other than the bolt pattern, is there a way to verify the flywheel is lined up?
Like a TDC point...

Infidel Edition
03-22-2017, 07:08 PM
BTW
Both the crank and the flywheel are new...
So it's not like matching up the old marks

Mudderoy
03-22-2017, 09:00 PM
There's 5 bolt positions that are obviously off..
And 1 that's just a hair off. Eyeball is on the money.

I get 5 of 6 bolts to easily finger tighten to flush
But the 6th won't go more than 2 turns before it's wedged.
Threads are good. Without the flywheel, all threaded into the holes were good.
I used the ratchet to work it a little...But it locks up.

I don't want to file the hole on the flywheel... And I don't want to strong arm the bolt in.

Other than the bolt pattern, is there a way to verify the flywheel is lined up?
Like a TDC point...

Wow! what a pain! I don't have any help for you but wanted to post so you wouldn't feel alone. ;)

Is there another flywheel you can try, even a broken one.

bluedragon436
03-22-2017, 09:49 PM
I know that there is one hole that is just a bit off.. I fought with this on the flexplate for an automatic when I did an engine swap on a friends XJ.. and I was like WTF??... cause when you look at it, doesn't look like it's off at all.. so kept turning it one hole at a time till they all lined up perfectly... when they "weren't lined up", just like you did, I eyeballed it and said looks good... put bolts in and last bolt.... nope... take em all out rotate one hole try again... That's what we did on ours... so might be worth a try if you haven't already tried that..

jonb8
03-23-2017, 06:23 AM
There right you should check your old flywheel with new one, all 258 and 4.0 cranks were the same bolt pattern at flywheel. They will only line up in one spot.

Infidel Edition
03-23-2017, 03:26 PM
When I pull the old engine ... I was going to double check.

So the Crank is a new SCAT stroker crank and the flywheel is a new LUX
And I've fully rotated the flywheel to all 6 bolt options. No joy :bang:

There's 2 marks on the top that are for the crank sensor.
I was hoping that someone could verify that at top dead center, those marks would match up with the crank position sensor.
Thus, when the #1 is at TDC, the marks would be at the 11 o'clock.

* I'll also check that after I pull the old engine.... but that's still a few days out.

10133

Thanks all... I'll post what I find.

OrangeXJ
03-23-2017, 05:22 PM
When I was an industrial engine mech. most of the engines were timed off the flywheel. I've been where you are all bolts line up except 1 and it will start then stop after 1-2 threads. Measure the bolt holes on the crank and the flywheel center to center and you may find 2 of them are either closer or further apart from the others the rest will be the same.

OrangeXJ
03-29-2017, 05:59 PM
Curious did you solve your problem?

Infidel Edition
03-29-2017, 09:33 PM
That PITA e socket bolt on the passenger side kicked my butt yesterday...

But my plan is to pull the old engine and

A) check the crank sensor marks vs TDC
& B) see if the old flywheel matches up to the crank.
~ maybe see if the new fly matches a stock crank

If the old flywheel holes match, and if it's in good shape, I may just use it and return the LUK
= Flywheel was drilled off key

If it doesn't match, but the marks and TDC match, I may file out the "off" hole (it's less than a mm off and near enough to the center it shouldn't throw the balance)
= The crank was machined off balance

If the new flywheel matches the old crank...
= Definitely new crank is off ��

Hoping to get back to it Friday...

OrangeXJ
03-30-2017, 08:10 AM
I strongly suggest do not make the hole in the flywheel bigger to match the crank no matter how slight it maybe. I saw this done to a 750 thousand dollar industrial engine with disastrous effects it will vibrate the engine to death. As posted earlier the flywheel will only bolt up properly one way. Also posted earlier you may have to rotate the flywheel many times to get it to line up right. If you measure the distance between the bolt holes on the flywheel and the crank they will be the same with 2 of them either being closer together or further apart from the rest of the holes. If you do this and they don't match the 2 are not compatible. I also would call the crank manufacturer and give them the part number for the flywheel to see if it is the correct one for the crank.

Pookapotamus
03-30-2017, 08:51 AM
Methinks the new Lux flywheel has slightly smaller bolt holes than the old, compare against the old flywheel. As stated by you above you know how to install a flywheel, you have the rotation right, and the bolts will thread when not through the flywheel, it has to be a tolerance error.

I agree with orange xj to a point, on a big industrial engine, no way, but on our little tractor engine go for it! These engines were not balanced at the factory, and the half a gram you will shave won't hurt the 5 to 10 gram imbalance that was there at factory assemble.

I believe I am running a Lux in my stroker too, I have an old 258 crank, but I think it was a very tight fit as well, might have had to shave mine too.

Oh and confirm part numbers on the Lux, flywheel vs box vs what you ordered.


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Infidel Edition
04-03-2017, 07:14 PM
And the verdict is....

sorry, the E12 bolt head was trashed... I wound up drilling perpendicularly through the bell housing to cut the bolt in half.
Got the engine free and JB Welded the drill holes over (slid a piece of hose to keep the original hole).

...the flywheel holes were off. The old fly fit perfectly.

Pookapotamus
04-04-2017, 08:11 AM
Glad you figured it out!


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