The "Gold Bond" build...

[WrenchDevil6]

Because it chaps my ass!! LOL!! And you know that you can relate!
:xjtalk:

I have every intention to populate this thread with the history and progress of my build. However, I want to begin with my aggravation with choosing a battery.

I've searched this and other XJ sites for what battery I should put in this beast to revive it.

I've considered Optima, but armed with the knowledge that quality has deteriorated with the move to Mexican production while maintaining the same price, leaves me disinterested.

I've considered Remy, as they're made in the USA and the Intimidator 9A34M is a deep cycle with 970 CCA and 785 CA, but it's an online order and the shipping puts the cost around $190.00. Which isn't bad, and I may go that route.

I've looked at Odyssey and the CCA/CA don't match the Remy at a $240.00 tag.


I've considered Exide, but the battery with 880 CCA, which was the PURE LEAD DT ULTRA HIGH PERFORMANCE AGM, was rebranded as the Northstar and is $290.00+

The Duralast Gold has 800CCA/1000CA and is $150.00...

I looked at Diehard and wasn't sold and I don't shop at Walmart, so that's not even a possibility.

And, having taken the time to write all that out, I've decided to give the Remy a shot. We'll see how it pans out.

I did some wrenching today, but didn't get any pix. Tomorrow is another day.

I'm curious to hear what you guys have to say.

[4.3LXJ]

I bought a couple of Optima blue tops a year ago and have no complaints yet. Got eight years out of the old ones when they grenaded from a short in the positive cable

[cpttuna]

NAPA legend has served me well

[sKrazo]

O'Reilly superstart extreme has been good for couple years now, but I also work there & get discounts

[WrenchDevil6]

Thanks for the input, guys!! I was leaning towards Remy, but ease of access and the fact that I'm going to drop the engine in at some point tomorrow, has me leaning towards Duralast Gold. 5 year (3+2) warranty. 800CCA and 1000CA for $150.

Luckily, the battery is the only item that I've been this indecisive about.

Until the lift/suspension upgrade in the spring. 0.o

[WrenchDevil6]

Figured I'd just keep to this thread...
Engine is in and all connections have been made. Has a crank/no start issue that I'll address after this question.

Does anyone know where/what this plug goes to? It was never plugged into anything.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161105_130551.jpg

[WrenchDevil6]

I think that it may be for the CDN daytime running lamp connection. That's the only thing that I can come up with. Would a USA XJ be harnessed for a CDN connection?

[4.3LXJ]

Tough to tell on that one

[WrenchDevil6]

Thanks for the reply Steve. It has never been connected. I've searched everywhere and the only thing that I can come up with is the CDN daytime running lamp set-up. As it wasn't connected before, it didn't impede the operation of the Jeep in the short amount of time that I drove it, before discovering that the "new to me" 99 XJ that I had just bought, had a severely cracked head.

[WrenchDevil6]

I finished the install of the new reman'd ATKDA37 today. Everything went together perfectly, without any leaks at the fuel rail/injectors. However, I'm having a crank but no start issue. As I'm doing this solo, I'm finding it difficult to check for spark while sitting behind the steering wheel.

The distributor and rotor are in their proper place and the plug wires are new and in their proper places, as well. All components are connected and I'm not having any issues with the instrument cluster being wonky.

I installed a new CPS in hopes to avoid this issue. All other sensors were installed new as well, with Mopar/NGK(NTK) parts.

[4.3LXJ]

You will find that there are probably several of those mystery plugs on every model. They make a full wiring harness so it will fit all models and options and then plug into it if you have that particular one

[4.3LXJ]

Something you might want to invest in is a remote starter switch. It lets you check stuff while cranking, such as spark and fuel pressure. I like them so well I have two :D

[WrenchDevil6]

Excellent idea, Steve!!
Any particular brand that you've found that's best?
I'm partial to made in USA tools. ;)

[4.3LXJ]

Both of mine are Craftsman. I have had them for years

[WrenchDevil6]

Well... We know what direction they went, huh? -_-

[4.3LXJ]

I have one on the tractor. Starter switch went south and I didn't want to buy an expensive switch, so that is where it lives. The other I keep with my timing light

[WrenchDevil6]

Ok, here we go... The "Gold Bond" build... (that might get moved back to the "Build" thread, because it's um... a build in progress...

After losing my excellent '93 XJ in my first divorce, and spending far too many years pining for another, I bought a '99 XJ on 1.28.13.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20130129_125259.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20130129_125321.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20130129_125337.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20130129_125347.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20130129_125403.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20130129_125412.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20130129_125427.jpg

Isn't she a beaut!?!

I put a few stickers on her, you know... to personalize her a bit.

Purchased from Big Blue Auto Sales in Louisa, KY. *HINT* Do not buy anything from them.

168655 Miles.
Interior was quite nice and unscarred.
First thing:
New Sylvania H6054 headlamps on 1.28.13
New wiperblades (all around) 1.29.13
Noticed a serious rattle in the valvetrain on 1.29.13 on the return trip to collect the car that I drove to purchase the Jeep.

Hey, it's a 4.0L XJ, they rattle, right?

Ran a can of Seafoam through it: Still rattled, of course. 1.30.13
It either developed a leak or I noticed a leak on 1.30.13
Radiator flush/fill on 2.4.13
Took it to a mechanic who said that the timing chain had a heavy rattle.

I purchased a scope and scoped the entire engine, found the heaviest of the rattling in the cylinder 5 & 6 area (foreshadowing).
When I scoped the timing cover, there was very little rattle coming from it.
Pulled the inspection cover and found the flexplate in perfect operating condition.
Changed/cooked the plugs on 2.5.13
Greased the chassis and sprayed PB on the entire suspension on 2.6.13
Parked it on 2.8.13 after discovering an increasingly heavy amount of sludge on the oil fill cap.
Also, the oil pressure was dropping and it was beginning to WANT to overheat.

More to come, with fancy new powerplant pix!!

Feel free to pass judgement, weep, raise a flagon, or whatever floats your goat.

[WrenchDevil6]

Unfortunately, I don't have any tear down images aside from the ones that you see here. I should have taken a few of the old engine after I removed it and stripped it down, to illustrate the gunk covering the cylinders 4, 5, and 6 area. I timed the extraction/strip of the old engine to coincide with the arrival of the new engine, so the old engine was only out of the Jeep and on blocks overnight.

What follows are images of the new engine being assembled and other items being added while I was awaiting a few parts to complete the install.

Also, I've completed the install of all components in the last couple of days and there are no images of that, as I was simply putting things back where they belong.

Scrub-a-dub-dub, intake parts in a kerosene tub
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161019_123652.jpg

This could happen to you. Luckily, I had a spare from my 94 ZJ donor that wasn't cracked.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/c459777d-8381-4496-845d-689bbe01e9b1.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/ca92af22-a90e-40c8-b94a-9688c02d76e3.jpg

Illustrating all the parts to be replaced in the spring and their current condition. After this series of photos, the entire suspension was, once again (and several times since), soaked in PB.

Included are pix of the new Brown Dog Ultimate Rubber Mounts.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161020_104818.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161020_104804.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161020_104759.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161020_104741.jpg

Fresh from the crate, ready to be dressed:
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161013_114958.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161013_115013.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161013_115028.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161013_115055.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161013_115110.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161013_115125.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161013_115144.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161013_115204.jpg

New and cleaned old parts going on:
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161019_123710.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161019_123722.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161019_123747.jpg

Dressed, filled with live giving Royal Purple RPO 11487, and oil pump primed/checked for proper lubrication:
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161029_130651_1.jpg

This is where you'll feel like Dr. Crankenstein:

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161031_141259.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k225/WrenchDevil6/99%20XJ/20161031_150732.jpg

That's all the images I've taken to date. I can take finished pix if you want, but you could simply raise the hood on your XJ to see what it looks like. ;)

The next post will contain all the components that I've replaced on this build.

[WrenchDevil6]

Here's a list of everything I've replaced/upgraded up to this point, that hasn't been covered.

Brown Dog Ultra-Flex Rubber Motor Mounts
Spectra Premium Radiator
Clutch Fan Shroud
H2O Pump/Inlet Tube
Thermostat 195°
Dist Cap/Rotor
Radiator Hoses, but not engine to firewall hoses
Engine came with a std Mellon oil pump, which when I asked the guy at 4WD.COM, he said it DID NOT, so I purchased a Sealed Power HV pump w/pick up tube & screen.
Duralast Gold Starter (new, not reman'd)
Duralast Gold Battery Type 34
Crown Auto CPS (I'll probably end up regretting that)
NGK/NTK Upstream 23151/Downstream 23099 O2 Sensors
Mopar Tranny Mount
Champion Copper Plus 438/RC12ECC Plugs gapped @ .035

The next items on the short list are:
EV6 Injectors
Hella 200mm Vision Plus Headlamp bodies & H4 bulbs
Putco H4/9003 HD Wiring Harness from eAutoworks
A/C Condenser in the spring. Not too concerned about it, as fall is here and WINTER IS COMING. :D

I'm either going to go with MOOG or IronMan 4x4 suspension/steering components w/Durango steering box upgrade, when spring rolls around.

[WrenchDevil6]

Dropped the fuel tank yesterday:

Thoroughly cleaned the tank.
Replacing 52100132AB (vent hose) and 52100131 AD (filler)

Both hoses were original and rotten to the point that their reuse was questionable.

Replacing tank straps 52100009AC

Got the straps from Amazon. Crown Auto brand w/j bolts $22.36 per strap, beats any prices anywhere. Everywhere else, the straps and bolts are sold separately and the bolts are $33 per from Morris 4x4 if you were to buy them new. 0.0

Replacing pump strainers with Delphi parts from AutoZone:
Part Number: BFS0112
Alternate Part Number: FS0112

Pump is in good strong condition with proper psi at the rail.

The vent hose from the pump to the collector was rusted so badly that it broke upon removal. I have a vacuum line replacement lined up for it.

[WrenchDevil6]

After getting all my parts in for the tank, everything went back together, put 5gal in from the gas can, turned the key and she purred like a lazy tiger.

Put a socket under the throttle controller, locked it in at 2000RPM, ran it for the 25min break in period, changed the oil and filter afterwards (Rotella T4 10W30/Purolator PL30001), and I felt like a new dad all over again. There's just something about bumping the key and that 4.0 firing up and running that warms the soul.

I've built 67 & 68 Camaros that didn't make me as satisfied when I cranked them up.
Only in a Jeep, is exactly right.

So, I couldn't get BF Goodrich KO2's anywhere locally without having to wait for a week. I decided on Duratrac 235/75/15's and they look beastly. I had considered the Kelly Safari TSR's, but they weren't in stock either. Come to think of it, the Duratracs weren't in stock but he had them in the warehouse and had to go get them.

Anywho, the Duratracs feel great, look great, and sound great. It's the first Goodyear tire I've purchased in 23 years or so, and I'm hoping that they're a better tire now than they were then.

Discovered that I am developing a brake line leak on the left front, so that's the next order of business, along with new liftgate jacks and new rotors/pads.

I'm getting the Crown Automotive stainless braided full brake line kit #CRORT31015 and
Duralast rotors/pads/

Replaced front left signal bulbs with Sylvania 3157LL's earlier this morning.

Aside from troubleshooting why my electric locks aren't working from the main switch, I think that I'm finished (after the brake line/liftgate jack replacement), as it appears that winter is finally rolling in and the suspension is planned for spring anyway.

I'll take pix of the rig with new tires and keep you guys updated.

Thanks for all the help, and years of XJ wisdom that allowed my build to go so smoothly. And now that she's running strong, you know that I'll not be going anywhere except to check the mail for more upgrade parts.

[WrenchDevil6]

Soooo... Remember that brake line that I said that I should have replaced while I had the engine out?

Yeaahh... That's where my brake fluid leak is. The leak is in the hard line along the frame on the driver side (L). The line is basically rotten for about three feet.

Looked at getting my own tubing and flare tool and fittings... Not nearly as cost effective as simply calling the dealership and ordering one @ $39.00. I'll have it on Friday.

Fun times. ;)

[XJ Wheeler]

Congrats on the engine build man! I bet that's a good feeling, that first startup after a reduild!

Sent via messenger pigeon. I talk, he types.

[WrenchDevil6]

Thanks, Jake! It was quite awesome. I've ran it up and down the Interstate with some city miles thrown in (back and forth to various parts houses), and after today's running around, I'm going to change the oil again tomorrow and then go for 2K until the next change. After today, I'll have put about 500 miles on the engine, after the stationary break-in oil change.

She runs like a beast and purrs like a kitten.

After tomorrow's brake line replacement, I'll be going into planning mode for Spring's suspension upgrades. And there are a few items from JCR that I absolutely have to have, or I might die. :D

Have a great day everyone!

[4.3LXJ]

Congrats. A good ending to lots of effort. Driving a full rebuild is always gratifying.

[denverd1]

Nothing like that feeling when it finally fires for the first time. Nice work. Driving with an engine you worked on is very cool.

for the battery question, I went also with Duralast gold from Auto zone. I called a couple places before I bought. Interstate had a group 34 with more CCAs and a slightly better warranty for about $10 less. Negligible difference and auto zone is by my office. Good choice

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[WrenchDevil6]

Installed the brake line today: Part #52127967 The driver side line from the distribution block to the rear brake.

Took me about 30 mins, including bleeding the entire brake system.
Excellent weather to do it. Reminds me that I need to put up some pix of the rig.

I'm also pissed (once again) that Craftsman tools (except screwdrivers, pry bars, and a few other items still made in USA) are made in China.

It may be a misjudgment, but made in China is made in China, and now Craftsman and Duralast are, in my opinion, the same tool. -_-

Oh... Picked up a CEL today. Code is TPS P0122 and LDP 1494. I'm thinking that I have a rotten tubing fitting or a hole in a tube somewhere and that leak is throwing the TPS code, but the code included information about improper (low) voltage at the sensor. I'll repair the connections/tubing and see what transpires. I don't have a problem purchasing the Mopar part, just rather not... yet. ;)

[WrenchDevil6]

Here's an oddity...

Before the Jeep reaches operating temps, the CEL will flash if the RPM's exceed 1500 and will stop flashing immediately when the RPM's return to idle.

After reaching operating temps, the CEL will not flash at any RPM.

I haven't been able to trace down the vacuum issue and the CEL is still on (not too much of a worry). I'll get around to replacing all the rubber boots/fittings.

No rough idle.
No irregular sounds.
CEL flashes over 1500RPM both parked and driving.
Temp is at proper operating temp.
Oil pressure is good and constant.
Alternator is operating properly.
Oil is clean and free of water.
Coolant is green and free of oil.
No hesitation on acceleration.
No miss/no chug/lurch/stall when driving.

I'm stumped...

Could the vacuum leak be creating this issue?
Would a failed LDP create this issue (and of course this would be my 1494 code)?

INSERT: FOG emoji LOL!!

[WrenchDevil6]

UPDATE: The CEL no longer flashes. It's still on, but I'm pretty sure what that's about.

[WrenchDevil6]

Annnnd the CEL decided that it didn't need to be on, late in the evening after the above post. LOL!!!

Only in a Jeep. ;)

[denverd1]

love it when they fix themselves!