'93

[Infidel Edition]

So I've posted where I picked up my new to me '93 Red that replaced my '89 sand and black

9715

So far, I've swapped out the 5" lift and have redone the exhaust from the exhaust manifold back.
And had been chatting with friends about what I wanted to do to it down the road.
~ things like a high flow intake (99'+) and bigger TB (62mm)
I have ordered (but haven't installed): Gibson Header, and the 62mm TB, 20# injectors and Chrysler FPR and the brackets to mount the power steering pump. = next few weekends was the plan.

Then I decided to get a Dorango Steering Gear Box and the C-Roc reinforcement plates.
...........and recently picked up a new tie rod and draglink and installed it + got an alignment.
But still haven't done the steering pump and gear box upgrades.

[Infidel Edition]

So my wife wanted to get me something nice and asked my friends (using my $$ BTW / but she was good spending it :bacondance:)

She picked up this high flow head
$625 / has LS1 valves and such...

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9717

:bacondance::bacondance::bacondance:

[Infidel Edition]

My man brain started to think, maybe a better CAM would be good too! Just to make sure the air flow is best utilized.
So I dropped just under $200 and picked up:

9718

9719

And I was ready to start wrenching....

[Infidel Edition]

THEN.... I decided that if I were going that far, I might as well do a full engine rebuild.

I've started gathering pieces and parts.

Full Engine gasket set, New Oil Pump, Rocker's, push rods, bolts ...

So far, this is what has arrived:

9720

................and now I'm thinking why not STROKE IT!
and will be working on a crank, rods, and pistons.
:bacondance:

[4.3LXJ]

And the list goes on. Is there an end in sight? :D

[abebehrmann]

If you give a Jeeper a high-flowing head...

[Infidel Edition]

And the list goes on. Is there an end in sight? :D

I'm sort of thinking about grabbing a short block at Pick n Pull, gut it and dropping it off at a machine shop. That way, my jeep won't be down long term while I wrench.
* roughly $600 for the machining (boring and honing, decking, and etc.) and they'll assemble the parts (meaning I pick up equivalent to a long block).
** that price is solely labor / I provide 100% of the parts.

Between the stuff I picked up for the '89 ~ and the parts I've started gathering for this engine, I'm close.
Just need the crank, rods, and pistons... and all new bearings.
Less than $1,000 to go.

One of the things I like doing is seeing other threads / pic's of builds posted and part ideas.
= that's where I noticed Freeze Plugs and ordered those from O'Reilly's yesterday.

Once the engine is in, I'll do the power steering pump and durango gear box.
I'll probably do the front hubs and u-joints at the same time.
Then, there's the rear Drum to Disk conversion parts I never got around to installing because I decided to upgrade the axle shafts at the same time.

SO~ I'll be done when everything is new.
And will start over :love0055:

[4.3LXJ]

¥up, that is how it works

[Infidel Edition]

While I'm waiting for my rocker set (4 wheel parts $66) and the Freeze Plugs (O'Reilly Auto $15), I've been pricing out crank's, connecting rods, and pistons + rings and bearings.
Piece-Meal, I'm looking at $1025 for all new everything.
OR
Clegg has a couple 4.6L Stroker Kits for around $1000 (+upgrades would be $1125 - $1350 also all new)
* shooting to achieve between a 9.0:1 to 9.6:1 compression ratio

Looking at the
Scat Enterprises 9000 Series 3.895" Stroke #9 4.2L 3895 (generally around $450 / $500 individually)
King Connecting Rods and Main Bearings (want to say $250/$300 new is what I've seen .... but my brain may be off at the moment)
Molly rings

Here's the current difference that I'm looking at:

Sealed Power (cast) Hypereutectic Coated Dish Pistons vs. Icon Forged Dish Pistons

I've read up (google style) on the difference between the 2 and for the most part, lower RPM applications are fine with the Cast Pistons. The Forged are needed for higher RPM situations.
Since the cast pistons are less $, that's how I've been leaning.

I'm trying to figure out if there's any thermal differences between the 2.

[bluedragon436]

Yeah sounds about right on the pricing.. I've been looking at those same options for doing a stroker build, using a block I bought to tear down and build up, while keeping my XJ up and going @ the same time... I'm currently debating on either buying all the parts and having to ship the engine out for machining (as none of the local machine shops have reputable reviews).. or purchase an already assembled short block stroker... If I had a machine shop that was local, that either had good reviews or would machine and assemble my setup for $600... I'd certainly do the build up with parts..

[Infidel Edition]

Swapping the motor mounts was harder than on the '89. Well, the passenger side was harder, the driver side easier.
But both mounts and the tranny mount done.

Didn't realize that there was a difference... but the passenger side is a little wider = a little harder to get in place when you don't pull everything around it.
9743

With zero weight on it... it sits about 1/4" higher
9744

maybe 1/8" higher / the old one wasn't that worn. But since it's pulled, it's changed.
9745

[Infidel Edition]

Got these in the mail yesterday

Complete gasket set (I have other performance gaskets for things like my head, the exhaust man came with a gasket...) Although I have some better gaskets, it was cheaper to pick up this set for under $40 with shipping, than to buy the other various gaskets individually. * also new freeze plugs from OReilly
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This is the brackets from Mopar to mount the power steering pump to the '00 intake. *don't have the intake or the pump yet, but when I do... I'll have these.
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And when I swap that out... I'll do the Dodge gear box at the same time.
* as well as the CROK reinforcement plates that I pulled off the '89.
9757

[Infidel Edition]

Just ordered from Clegg / will ship next week

Keith Black (Icon) Hypereutectic coated pistons
Scat 9000 Crank (4.2L)
Scat 4340 forged 6.125" rods
Moly rings
King Bearings
Fully balanced and shipped

pending how much the remove when it's decked (local shop) and the gasket, this setup will give me between a 8.8:1 and a 9:1 compression ratio.

Total price under $1300 (*$400 of that was for the balancing and upgrade to the forged rods and upgrade to moly rings)

:bacondance::bacondance::bacondance:

[denverd1]

Yes!!! Love that head!! Now you gotta build the motor to take advantage of all that flow.

Why is your cam lift only .46/.48??? You need .50 at least bro!! Those springs will be just fine [emoji2] [emoji106]

sent from my Samsoon S5 from the bottom of a mud hole

[Infidel Edition]

Yes!!! Love that head!! Now you gotta build the motor to take advantage of all that flow.

Why is your cam lift only .46/.48??? You need .50 at least bro!! Those springs will be just fine [emoji2] [emoji106]

sent from my Samsoon S5 from the bottom of a mud hole

I haven't opened it yet... I was thinking the same thing.
After my last few items roll in, I was going to sit down and take inventory of everything and make some adjustments at that time.

[Infidel Edition]

As well, I need to figure out is the rated lift on the valves on the new head ...
And then weigh the trade off between low end torque and top end HP.

Soon as I figure it all out ... I'll post the update.

[Infidel Edition]

Now that I'm getting close to build time.... I'm really leaning toward picking up a short block at the junkyard for $125'ish...

That way, my jeep won't be down for more than a couple days while I wrench on the other engine.

Plus, that'd leave me with a damn near complete 2nd engine that I could put up for sale later.

* clegg has already shipped my order. Should have it mid-late next week. :bacondance:

They also offered to give me a core charge for my old rods

[denverd1]

core for rods?? push or connect?

like the short block idea. you gonna have it fluxed?

[Infidel Edition]

core for rods?? push or connect?

like the short block idea. you gonna have it fluxed?

Core on Connecting Rods = they're getting hard to find is the impression I got
Block = yeah, full acid wash, megnafluxed, bored decked, ... and made like new

[Infidel Edition]

WOW FAST AND EXCELLENT SERVICE!
The box showed up today :bacondance: and it was like Christmas!
That took 6 days from order to received (with a holiday weekend in the middle)

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Crank is balanced * the sweet spot is 3000 RPMs for my regular range
They got it significantly down!
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Pistons and Connecting Rods all within 1/100th of a Lb!
...maybe less = my scale only rounds to the nearest 100th
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IT'S GETTING HARDER TO WAIT UNTIL THE NEXT CHECK TO START THE NEXT THING!

[Infidel Edition]

The machine shop gave me a price break down:

Clean and test the block: $50 (if it doesn't pass / free if it does)
Deck the block: $125
Bore/Hoan and otherwise prep the cylendars: $325
*** to include installing the crank and pistons to ensure good clearance
:rolleyes:
Assemble the full engine with all the new parts and such: $300

Donor block (short block) from the local junkyard: $136
* can exchange if it doesn't pass the shop

So I can pickup a block, drop it at the machine shop and for ~ $600 drive away with a "ready to build" block (basically a Short Block).
OR for $900, a Long block (this guy builds strokers, so I'm confident he'd do it right).
:spongebob:
If I do the short block, I'll need to rent out a storage unit ($145/mo) + get an engine stand and hoist. Guesstimate: $200'ish.
:rolleye0012:
* and that doesn't include installing the engine. So, if I do the swap, I'd still need the hoist. + a place to do the swap.
I'm not sure how much it would cost to have a local shop swap the engine for me. But I'd guess $50/Hr and you know they'd call it a 2 day job.
** machine shop says they "don't do swaps"
:mad:
I've swapped engines in older Chevy's ~ where the entire front end comes off and the engine pops in.
From what I've seen, the Jeep is too much harder (when you add the disassembly and reassembly of the front of the Chevy).
So, depending on $$ to have someone do the swap, I was leaning toward that too.
:smiley-scared003:

[4.3LXJ]

The front header will come off. But usually the studs pull out of the fiberglass. When that happens, epoxy will fix that

[Infidel Edition]

I'm really leaning toward doing as much of the work myself as I like to do the work.
The $$ does have some measure. But the feeling of cranking up an engine that I built is 10 x more gratifying than 1 someone else built with my spec's.
...and that's 10 x better than cranking up an engine that was built to someone else's spec's.
............................least it is for me. :out:

[bluedragon436]

Looking good... Been working on pricing a stroker build with the spare block I have in my storage unit/garage... Was going to order up the same parts setup you have going on.. but machine shops in my are are not at all cheap, and most of them don't have very good reviews.. so am looking at picking up a built up short block.. going to talk to a few folks about machine shops they recommend and see where that goes... otherwise I guess I'll be going with a pre-built setup.. I'd much rather have my hand in it as much as I can as you said... but at least I know I'll be doing the swap around myself.. so will get some fun out of it.. lol Look forward to seeing your engine progress!!

[Infidel Edition]

I actually found this machine shop when asking a mechanic about getting work done on my last jeeps head.
I never would have found this shop.

...check with a localebgine shop to see, if you provide the block, crank, rods and pistons... How much they'd charge.

Clegg (where I picked up the crank and ...) Sells engines.
I'd bet, if you call them, they'd give you a quote for a block with rotating assembly installed.
Their customer service was the best I've had in years.

[bluedragon436]

I actually found this machine shop when asking a mechanic about getting work done on my last jeeps head.
I never would have found this shop.

...check with a localebgine shop to see, if you provide the block, crank, rods and pistons... How much they'd charge.

Clegg (where I picked up the crank and ...) Sells engines.
I'd bet, if you call them, they'd give you a quote for a block with rotating assembly installed.
Their customer service was the best I've had in years.

Yeah, Clegg was the place I was looking at for all of the parts if I was going to be building an engine... so guess I'll check them out and see what they have deal wise on a short block/engine w/ shipping...

[Outlaw star]

It is more satisfying when you did everything and it runs great.

Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk

[Infidel Edition]

Had some unexpected expenses ... put me back probably another 6 weeks.
In the mean time, my new decal showed up.

Going to replace the "SPORT" under the Cherokee emblem with this:

9796

[denverd1]

Life throws shit at you when you least expect, doesn't it?

I'd assemble it if it were mine as well, but for $300? hard to argue that I'd get it done cheaper/faster than that.

[Infidel Edition]

Fingers crossed, I'll go pick up a block in a week or 2
and take it to the machine shop by the end of Oct.
Should be bolted in by Nov.

In the mean time, I went ahead and applied the decals.
...used to have the "SPORT" label under the "Cherokee"

9828

9829

9830

[4.3LXJ]

Very nice. All you need is XJTalk.com underneath

[denverd1]

just added 20 HP for sure

[Pookapotamus]

Would have been 25 if it was yellow, just saying! ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[denverd1]

Would have been 25 if it was yellow, just saying! ;)


Well, its already RED. So thats an easy 25. Now we're talking 50 BEFORE he drops the stroker in :D

[Infidel Edition]

Very nice. All you need is XJTalk.com underneath

That's in the plans... Window vs fender though

[denverd1]

Stroker parts for sale
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3846777

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[bluedragon436]

Stroker parts for sale
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3846777

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

I am wondering if this isn't a guy who I was talking to through FB.. IIRC his listing looked almost the exact same as that one.. I think he sold it all, but not 100%... might have to hit him up and see if he's still got it available...

[Infidel Edition]

Could be some great finishing parts if he's got anything you need.

[Infidel Edition]

Found a block for sale out of a '92.
~ it's actually a complete engine with the head sitting on the floor next to it.

Gonna go check it out tomorrow and if it looks good, will drop $100 for it.
Went to "that discount" tool store and picked up a 1ton hoist on sale for $150 and got an engine stand from a guy I know for $50.

Rented a PublicStorage unit (huge garage) for $1 for the first mo. $190 a mo going forward. No contract. So, I could be done by the end of next month.

If all goes well, I should be able to strip the block down and get it to the machine shop by end of next week.

~ pic's to come.

[Infidel Edition]

Wasn't feeling great / and the wind blows today.
So I just picked up the engine and brought it back to my storage unit.

9866

9867

Gotta get an engine stand.

.... what size bolts to I need to mount the engine on the stand?

[4.3LXJ]

I think those are 3/8" coarse thread IIRC

[Infidel Edition]

OK... it was 3/8-16 for the 2 upper and 7/16-14 for the 2 lower points
~ some newer use an M12*1.75

Mounted it and mostly tore it down.

* gonna pull the cam and crank / brush the funk off and take it to the machine shop (sometime next week)

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9877

9878

9879

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[Infidel Edition]

Gonna be picking the block up in the next day or 2.
So, it didn't have the distributor hold down clamp or the screw. Is that the same as the generic Chevy hold down?

[denverd1]

Gonna be picking the block up in the next day or 2.
So, it didn't have the distributor hold down clamp or the screw. Is that the same as the generic Chevy hold down?

same style fork. not sure on bolt details

[Infidel Edition]

Picked it up, damn wet weather!
Just surface rust, hurried to wire brush it and a quick coat of paint.

What do people do for the water cavities? As they're building surface rust too.
...just flush it out with a rust inhibitor after its installed?

I'll post some picks in a day or 3

[denverd1]

spray wd40 should at least slow down whats going on

[Infidel Edition]

OK... so I quickly got it on the engine stand and prepped it for paint.
wire brushed / taped off / greased edges of tape lines and areas the tape didn't hit / covered spots....
Here's the results :bacondance:

WD40'd the inside after I painted
.....I'm going to start pre-assembly next week.


9912

9913

* yes, I have all the main caps, but had covered the back of the engine before I pulled those 2... so that I could paint the end before sticking it on the engine stand.
9914

...and my dog patiently waiting for me to play ball when I got home
9915

:beer:

[denverd1]

cool dog!! french bully?

block looks great

[4.3LXJ]

Nice dog for sure. You should teach him to wrench :D

[Infidel Edition]

yeah, he's a Frenchie.
Doesn't like to wrench, but he does like to play in the oil.

[MattybPDX]

My wife wants a Frenchie. Apparently a pit and German Shepard aren't enough.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[Infidel Edition]

What the WHAT!

Do you know what's not included when you build an engine from the block up?
THE F'ING BOLTS!
To an extent, I anticipated that.
BUT do you know what doesn't come with a new cam and timing chain?
The CAM bolt. You know, the 1 with the little spring loaded tip.
$8 online.
~ the bolt on the donor motor won't break free for anything! :bang:

OK. That's my gripe for the day.
Guess I'll get back to assembly when I get that bolt in the mail.

[denverd1]

always something. sounds like you're making good progress!

[Infidel Edition]

So I torqued the mains in sequence (I get the logic of torquing the head in sequence as it's a solid piece, but the mains are independant....)
...to 80# ea.

And measured out 1 ring, then mounted it to the piston to use to ensure they're in the cylendar level to measure the rest.
all gaps are roughly 0.014 (top and 2nd ring) and like 0.020 on the 2 oil rings.

9947

9948

9949

Fingers crossed, I'll pick up the CAM nut from a local engine builder...
...and install the pistons and timing chain
Then call it a week and go fishing till Monday.

[Infidel Edition]

for the bolt and mounted the timing chain and gears
as well, I installed the pistons and measured the deck height.

9950

9954

9952

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[Infidel Edition]

also looking at this scuffed up area.
...it's the water hole thread front driver side of the deck. Not sure if I want to look at a little JB Weld carefully applied, or just make sure I apply some water/liquid gasket to the area... or if it's even worth consideration.

9955

[4.3LXJ]

I don't think I would worry to much about that. The most important part is metal ring around the combustion chamber

[Infidel Edition]

Stopped by my dad's house and picked up the stuff I bought a couple years ago to rebuild my '89.
Was going to reuse the lifters... and keep the other stuff with the engine that will be coming out.
1/2 of the were "ok" the rest, the plungers were stuck or didn't spring back.
All had specks of surface rust....
So ordering a new set.

Double checked the deck height using the #3 piston
It measured at 0.019 - 0.020

[Infidel Edition]

Got the head in place to do the initial paint...

9982

Then realized (when I pulled the tape off) that there's a few spots that didn't take.
So I have to heat the block and engine up to 70'ish, clean it all off... and redo it.

:rolleye0012:

[bluedragon436]

Looking good, Dave!! Why do all the guys that have built up an engine have to be so far away from the east coast?!! LOL.. I'll get to building one up, one day... maybe here soon, since I'll have a bit more free time on my hands...

[Infidel Edition]

I've been doing 3 hours here 4 hours there and just enjoying turning wrenches.
Hardest thing for me was getting a place to do it.

~ I felt the others way = it seemed like many of the people were too far east for me.
...and the parts people were almost all east coast. And a few way down in CA.
But all the people I've needed when I've had a question are right here.

[MattybPDX]

I've been doing 3 hours here 4 hours there and just enjoying turning wrenches.
Hardest thing for me was getting a place to do it.

~ I felt the others way = it seemed like many of the people were too far east for me.
...and the parts people were almost all east coast. And a few way down in CA.
But all the people I've needed when I've had a question are right here.
I'm pretty much right down the street from you. I know nothing about motors though, well I know what they are at least.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[Infidel Edition]

I meant guys building jeep engines
There's some pretty cool guys here in Portland
...even if they did the 4.3 vortex thing

[Infidel Edition]

market the harmonic balancer
....remember the cam gear is twice the size of the crank gear ~ so each turn of the crank is 1/2 a turn on the Cam.
* I installed the distributor before I put the timing cover on... so I could see where the #1 plug/point was when the #1 piston is at TDC.

I used some MSD timing tape that I had and the dial gauge to measure.
I did + .1 and - .1 and figured out the exact TDC as it rides there for a little

I used a paint pen on front ... and a file for the line on the lip as the tape needs to come off before the belt goes on.

9991

9992

[Infidel Edition]

lubricated the lifters and installed them with a mag-stick

9993

9994

9995

[Infidel Edition]

Realized the new head bolts were the Jeep 12 point.... And yeah. No one had that damn socket.
...till I found it at a NAPA distro center ($6).

10005

Got the head on, bolts torqued, and push rods/rocker arms installed.

10006

..................................
And the lady at the Public Storage walked by and let me know I can't do anything other than store things there.
Now I need to find another place to do the engine swap :timeout:

[4.3LXJ]

Well that is no fun then

[denverd1]

Realized the new head bolts were the Jeep 12 point.... And yeah. No one had that damn socket.
...till I found it at a NAPA distro center ($6).

Got the head on, bolts torqued, and push rods/rocker arms installed.

..................................
And the lady at the Public Storage walked by and let me know I can't do anything other than store things there.
Now I need to find another place to do the engine swap :timeout:

did you tell her you were almost done? that sucks

[bluedragon436]

That's complete BS!! I talked to the people @ my storage unit before I ever rented mine, and they said, so long as I put down plastic to protect the floor and I clean up once I'm done.. that I can do whatever I want... but if anything is stained then I get "fined' for it... I've done quite a bit in my storage unit... under some new management now... so guess we'll see how/if that changes anything.. Going to be collecting up parts to be able to build up a "budget" build or just purchase an already built stroker.. to replace my "worn out" and unfortunately not very well taken care of (by PO's) 4.0.. guess we'll see if they biatch a fit and change it all up on me when I try and do engine swap out

[Infidel Edition]

I have family going on vacation in late Feb/ early Mar
So it sitting, waiting
...And I'm anxious

[Infidel Edition]

Pulled the old engine out...and took pics for posterity sake (and to help remind me where those parts go later / labeled each too)
....and yeah, there's way more pic's, but you get the idea

10174

10175

10176

[Infidel Edition]

Put in the new pilot barings ... C-Rok brace + Durango steering box (new from RockAuto)...

10177

10178

10179

And got the engine in and bolted to the tranny and mounts.

10180

10181

Picked up a 98 Grand Cherokee alternator (136 amp) and new hoses.
Going to bolt on the header, intake man, and start wiring it all back up this next week.
Getting closer

:bacondance:

[Infidel Edition]

Damn it Jim!
I'm a Dr
....


'Er, I mean the mustang injectors aren't quite right!
So I need to get different injectors.

Oh and the 136 amp alternator is about 1/4" too wide.
Double damn!

............missed the "some grinding is required" note on the alternator.
Guess I've got a little grinding to do.

[bluedragon436]

Looking good.. why isn't that thing done yet??!! Sheesh!! LOL

[Infidel Edition]

Wife doesn't know...
She thinks the clutch is slipping

So I've been squirreling away an hour here and 30 minutes there.

Plus some of that stuff is spendy

[Infidel Edition]

Ground out the brackets and mounted the '98 136amp alternator.
put in the Screaming Demon Wires....
10195

* I didn't take a pic... but the ground wire now comes off (the nipple) pointing directly at the IronMike Mount! Thank Goodness the wire is flexible.

10196

[Infidel Edition]

Gotta swap the cap
But I'll do that when I prime the oil...

[bluedragon436]

Looking good... Can't wait to replace the alternator in my XJ... I've got a nicely modified one that supposedly fits in the stock brackets with no shaving (we'll see about that)... just been waiting on her to either blow the engine, where I'd be putting a "new" one in... or the alt. go out... and here we are over 2 years later... still waiting... lol...

[Infidel Edition]

installed the WJ fan clutch.
Looks like about 1/2" to 3/4" bigger, but should still clear

10204

10205

10206

10207

[bluedragon436]

installed the WJ fan clutch.
Looks like about 1/2" to 3/4" bigger, but should still clear

10204

10205

10206

10207

Almost looks about like the HD ZJ tow package fan clutch I purchased for my last XJ, but didn't get installed until I replaced the radiator on the 97.. if it's the same, keep an eye on how close the fins are, to the radiator... Mine had a brace bar (of thin metal) right in front of the clutch, and it made such a horrible racket, ended up bending it as much as I could away from the clutch... but in the end I had to remove the support.. glad so far it seems to be all good, and no negative consequences from pulling the support bar... not to mention it was a major PITA to pull the support bar while the fan & shroud were still installed.. lol

[Infidel Edition]

I believe the rad lines up with that inner lip.
So I should have like 3/4" ... But won't know for sure till I put the rad back in.
Fingers crossed....

[Infidel Edition]

Went with Mustang (Bosh 0 280 155 715) 24# injectors... And the Dodge fuel pressure regulator (Chrysler # 4418850) @ 49psi "should be a good match" with my mods.
= 25.5lb/hr, 6cyl will support 240HP at the flywheel.

"The objective here is to select an injector that will deliver the correct amount (lb/hr or cc/min) of fuel required to support a given horsepower level while maintaining operation within its design parameters. While injector flow rate can be adjusted (to a limited extent) by pressure, (24# injector @ 43.5psi will flow 25.5# @ 49psi) the PCM controls the amount of fuel delivered by adjusting how often and for how long to open and close each injector."

[Infidel Edition]

Woop Woop fired it up for 30 min.

Since I upgraded the alternator to a 136 amp, I decided to upgrade the wiring too...
The 93 Chrysler wiring it PITA vs the 89. And the spiderweb looked scary, so I ordered a pre-dinner set from a guy on another site for $110 (shipped)
When it got here, I was let down as it was just a set of 4awg that I could have done for way less... but I misunderstood him when he said it had all the plugs. No, he just put all the eyelets on and included an inline fuse.
~ still need to upgrade the alternator to pdc...

While fitting all the cables, I decided to prime the fuel line (turn to on for a few...then off position and repeat).
Verified that my at was at 40# (upgraded injectors and pressure regulator).
...and when I went to take the keys out... I cranked it over.
:pray:
Nothing:bang:

I had upgraded EVERYTHING = so nothing had been street tested yet ~ like the hot coil or such.
Didn't want to start trouble shooting yet / and considered walking away for a while...
But thought, just in case it was the distributor was 180° off, I decided to try that real quick.
:bacondance:

20'ish seconds of cranking and 15 seconds of rough idle and
:bacondance:

Idled for 5-6 minutes till I realised I left the garage closed...
:rolleye0012:

Cut the engine and cleaned up for the night

[Pookapotamus]

I thought I heard some rumbling from the south! Glad to here it's running again!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Infidel Edition]

Took it out for the maiden voyage...

Break-in per Jeep 4.0 Rebuild by Larry Shepard.
Good book, but I wasn't comfortable with his target RPM ranges. This is excerpts from the book

Phase 1: For 30 min ~ do not use full throttle and try to limit the engine speed to 3,000 rpm or less. During this time, try to vary the engine speed

P2: For the next 30 minutes, move the engine limit up to 3,500 to 4,000 rpm and...

P3: For the next 30 minutes, use the new RPM limit of 4,000 to 4,500 rpm and use varying throttle applications from light to medium to full...

P4: For the next 2.5 hours of engine operation, the engine assembly is considered broken-in and you can begin to run the vehicle normally...

...I kept P1 under 2,000 / P2 under 3,000 and then a couple 4,000 bursts.
It just didn't feel like I was getting enough fuel over 4,000 to run well. I'll have to take it to a tuning guru after a couple oil changes.
****Love any thoughts and feedback from those that have done engine rebuilds on their break-in experience****


Otherwise, ran like a dream. Smoother than before. Power. Happiness till the next project.
~ upgrade breaks all the way around + double diaphragm boost.

[Infidel Edition]

I'll post some pics soon

[4.3LXJ]

:congrats:

[Infidel Edition]

Here's an engine video link
...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6LVIIkqSWxsYm9HaU03YzI1NVU/view?usp=drivesdk

Not sure if it'll work.