Trans cooler routing advice

[LGrocks]

Thursday night I'm starting some work on the new WJ. Replacing the radiator and condenser and installing an stand alone trans cooler too. Currently the only cooler it has is the one built into the radiator. I can't decide if I should plumb the trans fluid to run thru the radiator 1st, then to the new cooler, and back to the trans. OR abandon the radiator cooler totally and route trans fluid only to the new cooler. The new cooler is a Hayden plate type, 11" X 7.5".

I live in north Texas. Lots of summer heat but it can get cold too at times too. Originally I was thinking it might need to go thru the radiator cooler to get the fluid up to op temp quicker, for winter. Is that even necessary?

[4.3LXJ]

Kind of two schools of thought on that, probably why you are asking right?

Just using the torque converter gets the oil hotter than the cool side of the radiator. So in your case, if it is working hard I would put the cooler after the radiator and beat some of that summer heat.

[XJ Wheeler]

I went through this decision process when I wanted to plumb my b&m cooler. Where I live it doesn't get below freezing but maybe once a year. Although I do plan on moving to a cooler climate one day so I went with running the trans cooler on the return line to the transmission. That way it warms up quicker but you already knew that. :D

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[LGrocks]

Steve, yes.

The previous WJ (one I shoulda kept), had a Hayden trans cooler and lines were routed to that cooler only. Totally bypassing the cooler that's built into the radiator. I had a Trans temp gauge on the dash and I remember in the winter time on a 32 deg morning ride to work(all highway), it would take 15-20 miles of driving before the trans temp would even get to 150deg. Some days would never make it to 180. Is it true that the trans fluid isn't really doing it's job correctly until operating temp of 180deg?

[4.3LXJ]

In theory it needs to be warm. I run synthetic fluid and mine takes about a half mile to start working correctly. But it doesn't need to be a full 180 My cooler fan comes on if the final temp after cooler is at 160

[LGrocks]

In theory it needs to be warm. I run synthetic fluid and mine takes about a half mile to start working correctly. But it doesn't need to be a full 180 My cooler fan comes on if the final temp after cooler is at 160

Is your ATF routed to the Griffin radiator internal cooler first, then to an auxiliary cooler, then back to trans?

[4.3LXJ]

No, I have a cooler with a fan and thermostat in the hood.

[LGrocks]

Radiator, condenser & trans cooler are in. Ended up routing trans fluid to internal radiator cooler, then to new aux cooler, then back to trans.
I learned that, looking at the passenger side of the transmission case- the TOP port is "out to cooler" and BOTTOM port is "in from cooler".

Thanks for the help.
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