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F1Addict
08-04-2013, 02:18 AM
This is from last year, some of you might recognize it from "another Jeep forum". I thought I'd share here, as well. I'll be heading up here again at the end of next week and post up a more recent trip. In the mean time, I hope you enjoy the adventure.

Part I...

It was probably back in May, not long after a trip to Joshua Tree, that I woke up and realized it was time to start planning for the next one. I spent most of my childhood in the Eastern Sierras, dangerously exploring back roads and hunting trails with my grandpa in his '67 VW Bug... the places he drove that thing still shock me. My grandpa and his '67 Bug are both gone now but up until a couple years ago, I'd religiously made the 800 mile (round trip) journey at least a couple times a year (occasionally, 5 or 6 times!). Unfortunately, life and finances got in the way for a while and I found myself without a car and filled with overwhelming apathy for life and adventure... so not me but it had become me.

In October of last year, one of my clients offered me her 23-year-old XJ. She'd bought it new for her granddaughter back in '88 but for whatever reason, it wasn't "cool" enough and was quickly replaced (by a TJ, I believe). So for the past two decades, she had managed to put 106,000 miles on the odometer going to and from church and the store a couple times a week. As far as she knew, it had never been in 4x4 when she gave it to me. It had become too expensive for her to maintain, things were going wrong, it randomly died, the steering wheel wobbled around dangerously, in her mind, it was falling apart and she just wanted to be rid of it in favor of something newer and more reliable.

A couple weeks ago I set my alarm for 2:30 am, it was a Tuesday morning. That's a little earlier than my normal departure but I was hoping to get a jump on traffic and make my way through the desert before the 115º afternoon heat took it's toll on my (and Jeep's) fragile cooling system. I'm not a huge fan of the desert (mostly because of the heat) but I find it's ethereal morning light and silence to be one of the most beautiful things on Earth. As I traveled north on Highway 395, the telltale signs of dawn began to appear on the eastern horizon. Black yielded to a murky blue to a vibrant orange, stars slowly faded from bright beacons to barely discernible leaks in the morning sky. Then I saw it, the tiniest sliver of Moon, just one day from new, chaperoning the Sun over the hills to begin a new day.

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I won't bore you with all of them but I feel like one picture just isn't enough...

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We (Jeep and I) had left behind the last vestige of civilization for now with only small hamlets of inhabited space between us and our ultimate destination. I couldn't resist stopping for a photo-op at Astro Burger in Kramer Junction. This place is sort of a notorious landmark because of it's isolation, there are no bathrooms for scores of miles in all directions and urban legend has it that, after eating here, you will definitely need one... Urgently!

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_5890.jpg

Fortunately, Astro Burger had yet to open for the day, my colon and Jeep interior had been spared. So it was back on the road, hoping to make it through the desert before the heat became unbearable...

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Putting the ice chest on the front seat had the added benefit of giving me something my Jeep never had... cup holders! For the first time I can remember I didn't dump a full cup of hot coffee in my crotch. w00t!!

We rocketed [Not really, obviously, I was driving an overstuffed XJ] across the Mojave in search of higher, cooler accommodations. After several hours of driving, we finally found them.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_5952.jpg

When I finished setting up camp I decided it was time for a nutritious dinner followed by a good night's sleep. Here's what followed...

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^^Nutritious dinner! ^^

And...


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^^Lots of sleep^^

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Seriously, lots of sleep.

Okay, so I didn't eat very well and I didn't sleep much at all. I was so excited to be away from the city, away from all it's hustle and bustle, free of the electronic chains, social networks, forums (sorry, xjTalk) and other 21st century obligations that sleep seemed to be nothing more than an inconvenience. Of course, at some point, my body gave up. I'd been up since 2:30 the previous morning, there's only so much I can take.

I started off easy the following morning, knowing it would take both of us some time to adapt to the altitude, but I was anxious to engage my transfer case. I'd played with it a little in suburbia but those were silly, petty excuses for driving all four wheels, I actually had a need for it, now. So I went to the closest place I could remember that grandpa and I had tried and failed to conquer in his VW Bug... the road to Gibbs Mountain Trailhead. There's a spot on this trail that is so steep and rutted that it seems impossible for anything but a trail-tested donkey or a seasoned goat to get up but Jeep just drove right through the nearly vertical dips and woops like they weren't even there.

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On our way back.

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This photo doesn't do the steepness justice. My inclinometer showed 22º, I have no point of comparison but it seemed impossibly steep.

After cruising around the hills for a few hours, I decided to disengage my TC in favor of flat ground. I spent the balance of my day exploring the shores of Mono (pronounced Mow-No, not Mah-No) Lake, a giant, ancient inland sea with volcanic islands (http://www.monolake.org/about/geovolcanic) and a salt content (http://www.monolake.org/about/geolake) three times that of the ocean. There are no fish here, only trillions upon trillions of tiny Brine Shrimp (http://www.monolake.org/about/ecoshrimp) and billions of Alkali Flies (http://www.monolake.org/about/ecoflies) that support a very unique and delicate aquatic ecosystem. A large percentage of shorebirds (http://www.monolake.org/about/ecobirds) choose this lake as their breeding grounds, including several raptor species, gulls, ducks, geese, and phalaropes. The two islands and dozens of islets provide the ideal, predator free nesting ground. It does seem peculiar seeing "sea" gulls so far from the ocean, though.

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Not only does Mono Lake offer a unique environment for aquatic and avian species but for our species, as well. Surprises lurk around every corner, the most stunning are the Tufa formations which develop from a chemical reaction as mineral-rich fresh water springs bubble up from the salty seafloor, as the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power siphoned off the fresh water tributaries, the lake level quickly receded, exposing the Tufa. Some of the more unique formations can be found along the sandy road leading to Navy Beach on the lake's south shore. If you decide to venture out on the road marked "4-wheel-drive vehicles only" be warned that they mean it. The road is extremely sandy and soft and it's very easy to get stuck. If you do, expect to pay between $500 and $1000 for someone to come pull you out. This isn't a place where others will come along to help, if you're traveling alone, you'll most likely be out of luck.

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Ancient petrified sand castles.

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Jeep playing among the imposing but delicate Tufa.

As you can see from the photos, the weather had begun to change. Hot dry air was slowly replaced by Hot, humid air as monsoonal moisture worked it's way north from the Gulf of Mexico, clashing with the cool mountain air, rain was inevitable. The desert would resist the urge to release this humidity in the form of colossal downpours and lightning strikes that would startle even the most stoic of gods for as long as it could but in the end, rain was coming.

I returned to camp for chicken stir-fry and a fire to ward off the cool (high-30s) evening temperatures. Despite daytime temperatures that flirted with the century mark, it frequently got down to near freezing overnight.

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I awoke the next morning to ominous skies and an occasional sprinkle. The air was still far too dry to support any real rain but you could feel the change happening. I decided to head up Log Cabin Mine Road, an old, rutted gravel and rock trail that leads to a mining facility that has been abandoned since the late 1950s but before that, operational (off and on) for over a century. Between the highway and mine, there is a combination of lush aspen and pine forests and virtually alien landscapes completely devoid of any life at all. Conditions are harsh up here and only the heartiest will survive.

The road up is a bit treacherous with unstable shoulders and steep drops. All worth it for the spectacular views...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_9038.jpg

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Along the way, it was obvious that spring came late to this altitude (+/-10,000 feet). Indian Paint Brush, Lupine, and other wildflowers were in full bloom along the trail.

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Lupine Forest

Of course, there has to be a log cabin on Log Cabin Mine Road, right?

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http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Miscellaneous%20Crap/IMG_9071.jpg
Could definitely use some shingles, a window or two, and a little carpet but not bad for being over 160 years old.

Once I finally reached the plateau, everything changed. Trees gave way to rock, oxygen thinned, clouds drew ominously closer, and the wind set it's mind to blowing me and Jeep off the mountain.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_9085-1_mod_vig-1.jpg

I found some interesting things abandoned up there, including an old car and lots of mining equipment outside what has been designated a historic preserve.

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I wonder if those springs will work on my Renix?

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Miscellaneous%20Crap/IMG_9105.jpg
Here's the rest of the car.


Part II...

After spending much of my afternoon exploring the windy, frigid plateau atop Lee Vining Hill and Log Cabin Mine Road, I decided to head back down the mountain to replenish my snack and water supply. On the way, I encountered a few light showers. They weren't heavy enough to require using the wipers, just enough to turn the uniform coat of dirt and dust on Jeep into a chaotic sort of Cheetah print camo.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_0285.jpg

When I finally reached my camp, I pulled my trash bag out of the bear box to access my food locker. As soon as I did, a little Belding Ground Squirrel went after the bag and, ultimately, what remained of my stir-fry from Part I of this story...

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NOM NOM NOM

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Yum, yellow bell pepper

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Ramen noodle

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Chicken?

It was at this point that I locked the bag back in the bear box because I'm pretty sure squirrels aren't supposed to eat chicken! Undeterred, Mr. or Ms. Squirrel went after my hanging bag that I was 100% sure had nothing but non-food items in it... Well, like, maybe 50% sure.

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Apple

After shooing away all the critters and locking all of my trash in the bear box, I decided to drive up the pass. The “pass” (Tioga Pass/Highway 120) begins (6,845 ft.) among the sage and creosote of the desert that comprises most of the Mono Lake Basin. The only green you’ll find are the willows and small trees that cling to the banks of the streams that flow like snakes through the bleached white desert pavement from the mountains that rise to the west on their journey to diversion ponds and, ultimately, through a series of aqueducts and canals to the thirsty metropolis of Los Angeles 300 miles to the south.


http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Miscellaneous%20Crap/IMG_0447.jpg



As you ascend the pass, desert flora and fauna quickly yield to Jeffrey Pine and Aspen groves and later, to granite boulders the size of houses. The pass is just 10 miles from start to finish but the first 6 miles are quite steep. Jeep found them taxing on his cooling system and we frequently found ourselves relaxing with a book at one of many turnouts being serenaded by the romantic melody of six cooling, ticking cylinders and the hiss of a coolant reservoir while we waited for that silly needle to make it’s counterclockwise journey back to normal.


http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_0179.jpg

The road is two lanes (one in each direction) carved from the side of a sheer drop nearly a century ago by men much braver than I. The steepest parts are constantly in motion and frequently closed while road crews repair damage or remove rocks that gravity has deposited in lanes.


http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Miscellaneous%20Crap/IMG_5941.jpg
Look closely and you'll see a black car traversing one of the most treacherous sections of the pass, an area called Blue Slide.


As you near the top, the summit marked by the easternmost entrance to Yosemite National Park (9,945 ft.), you will be greeted by lush alpine meadows full of wild flowers and tall green grass, ancient Lodgepole Pine forests and pristine lakes, like gems nestled among the cirques and depressions. The lakes contain either brook, rainbow, brown, or golden trout (or some combination). I spent much of my childhood exploring these higher elevations and know them intimately.


http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Miscellaneous%20Crap/IMG_0259_60_61_tonemapped.jpg



When I arrived at the 10,000 foot level the weather became more ominous. It was still not raining but you could tell the sky would not be able to hold out much longer. Several flashes and loud cracks of thunder rumbled through the canyon.


http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_9138.jpg

Alas, the rain never came and I slept late the next morning, anticipating a long night of stargazing. I spent the day napping and preparing for the evening, including filling my gas tank for the first time since leaving home… Ouch!

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Miscellaneous%20Crap/0719121435_PB650.jpg



That evening, I drove out to the desolate, deserted north shore of the lake. I arrived just before the sun set and began setting up for an overnight time-lapse of the clouds and Milky Way Galaxy passing overhead.

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http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_6187.jpg

This video [YouTube Link (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=D76bnLZXPTw)] represents a total of 765 individually shot frames over six hours at intervals from 15 to 30 seconds. The video is in 720p HD but you have to select the higher resolution.


I slept much of the next day but did manage to get out to the lake and adjacent volcanoes for a little exploring and photography.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/IMG_0210_zps9ff7d931.jpg

My alarm clock for the next morning was an enormous crack of thunder that reverberated through the canyon and literally shook my insides. This was followed by hail and rain that popped on my tent like firecrackers. It was still early, maybe 5 A.M. but I jumped up, pulled my pants on over my flannel PJ bottoms and headed for Jeep. We raced out to the meadow that marks the entrance to the campground and spent the next hour photographing the storm.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Miscellaneous%20Crap/IMG_0239_40_41_42_tonemapped_mod-1.jpg
Looking down the canyon at the sunrise...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Miscellaneous%20Crap/IMG_0249_50_51_tonemapped_mod_desat_nowire.jpg
Looking up the canyon from where the thunder had come.

Then it was up the pass again for what I hoped would be neat cloud pictures.

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http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/IMG_0272_zpsb30f42bb.jpg

As long as I was there, I decided to head into Yosemite for a few photos
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_6498.jpg


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Half Dome from Olmstead Point


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If you look closely, people (like ants) can be seen climbing up the cables on the side of the rock.

That afternoon, I drove back down the pass and while relaxing on a dirt trail somewhere in the middle of nowhere I watched a bolt of lightning ignite a brush fire on the far side of the lake. Engines, trucks, and planes began converging on the remote plume of smoke but it was all unnecessary for an hour later a torrential downpour put the fire out for them.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Miscellaneous%20Crap/IMG_6347.jpg


The next day marked my last before giving in to the responsibilities of adulthood and returning to the big city. I spent it exploring and photographing a burnt out area of the desert and packing in preparation for the next day’s departure.



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I always miss this place long before I actually leave and this time was no different. I can’t wait to return and have already begun planning our next adventure.

oderdene
08-04-2013, 05:50 AM
wow, fantastic places and fantastic tour. thanks for sharing with us.

nickyg
08-04-2013, 08:12 AM
Very well written.

bad luck
08-04-2013, 10:39 PM
Very nice, I enjoyed the pics, I just looked at them quickly, I have to come back and read the report when I have more time.

Brasscatz
08-04-2013, 10:52 PM
Beautiful man... looks like a wonderful time!

F1Addict
08-04-2013, 11:50 PM
Hey everybody, thanks for taking the time to have a look/read... I know it's kind of long.

XJ Wheeler
08-05-2013, 06:08 PM
Okay, first. Amazing photos! Second. You should write books. I really feel like i was there, you told the story so well. Third. Thanks for the trip!

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

abebehrmann
08-05-2013, 09:40 PM
Great post! Can't wait for the next one.

90ARMYxj
08-07-2013, 11:55 AM
Some beautiful pictures of the scenery I miss the desert of California for that Gerry reason.

nateyz2000
08-07-2013, 07:46 PM
Um... First off, very impressed with photos... How did you do that? Secondly, this is the kind of trip I would love to do... When are we going?

F1Addict
08-08-2013, 12:04 AM
Thanks again! I always wonder if it's worth writing it all up, afraid it'll turn out like one of my grandpa's vacation slide shows that were the most boring thing I remember from my childhood. I'm sure it was fun for him, just like it is for me, but that didn't make it any less boring.

Nate, you're only 150 miles from where those pictures were taken (which is 250 miles closer than I am), you have no excuse for not going. I'm not sure what you're asking, how did I do what?

XJ Wheeler
08-08-2013, 12:56 AM
Thanks again! I always wonder if it's worth writing it all up, afraid it'll turn out like one of my grandpa's vacation slide shows that were the most boring thing I remember from my childhood. I'm sure it was fun for him, just like it is for me, but that didn't make it any less boring.

Nate, you're only 150 miles from where those pictures were taken (which is 250 miles closer than I am), you have no excuse for not going. I'm not sure what you're asking, how did I do what?

If you want that old slide show feeling again... read my build thread. :smiley-laughing021:

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

nateyz2000
08-08-2013, 07:43 PM
Thanks again! I always wonder if it's worth writing it all up, afraid it'll turn out like one of my grandpa's vacation slide shows that were the most boring thing I remember from my childhood. I'm sure it was fun for him, just like it is for me, but that didn't make it any less boring.

Nate, you're only 150 miles from where those pictures were taken (which is 250 miles closer than I am), you have no excuse for not going. I'm not sure what you're asking, how did I do what?

I was talking about the pictures... Like the one of the jeep with the starts glowing in the sky... You must have a nice camera and know how to play with settings...

150 miles away from me... I know... I never seem to make it to the east side of the mountains... I need to I see...

F1Addict
08-08-2013, 08:49 PM
I was talking about the pictures... Like the one of the jeep with the starts glowing in the sky... You must have a nice camera and know how to play with settings...

150 miles away from me... I know... I never seem to make it to the east side of the mountains... I need to I see...

Ahhh, yes, my camera is kind of old but I think it's pretty nice and I do know how to play with the settings :)

F1Addict
08-09-2013, 12:26 AM
If you want that old slide show feeling again... read my build thread. :smiley-laughing021:

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

I've made it through 8 pages of your build and, so far, I'm very entertained. My build thread would go something like this...

October 20th, 2011: Installed shiny valve caps

July 5th, 2012: Replaced headlight with brighter one.

December 23rd, 2012: Installed Christmas lights on grill!

December 24th, 2012: Searched for source of burning electric smell. Removed Christmas lights.

August 8th, 2013: Installed air in each tire, including spare.

The end.

XJ Wheeler
08-09-2013, 02:07 AM
I've made it through 8 pages of your build and, so far, I'm very entertained. My build thread would go something like this...

October 20th, 2011: Installed shiny valve caps

July 5th, 2012: Replaced headlight with brighter one.

December 23rd, 2012: Installed Christmas lights on grill!

December 24th, 2012: Searched for source of burning electric smell. Removed Christmas lights.

August 8th, 2013: Installed air in each tire, including spare.

The end.

I appreciate that, but i even bore myself sometimes. :p

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

nateyz2000
12-29-2013, 02:31 PM
I am requesting a few of your photos. 12, 13, 21, 22, and 35. If you would be willing to send me the original size file that would be amazing. My wife has taken down most of her pictures in my house, and I would love to blow these up on canvas or something and hang in my home. Let me know if you would be ok with that. :-)

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

SteveMongr
03-13-2014, 06:46 PM
Great story and pictures! Thanks for sharing.