Infidel Edition
04-15-2013, 04:13 PM
So the other day, I finally got my headlights working again so I could drive at night. The wiring on the top of the switch had melted... but that's another story.
After I changed out the switch, I discovered that the lighting behind the instruments was WEAK to say the least.
1987
** That’s not a bad camera shot… It’s really that bad at night!
Based on the condition of the headlight switch, I wasn't sure of the condition of the circuit board. So I started by planning on what I might need and how much that was going to cost me… but fortunately, these plastic sheets are reasonably durable considering their purpose. **see pic below**
Here’s a pic of the dash. There’s 4 screws (least in mine) to remove the outer bezel and then 5 to pull out the instrument cluster assembly.
1994
1990
There’s 2 plugs (again, on mine) in the back. The clips at the top and bottom press easily to pop the plug out. I used a flathead screw driver. Note, there isn’t a lot of room to play with.
1986
The other plug is behind the far left section of lights (ie. Part Time / Seat Belt…)
Here’s the plug hanging out waiting for me to get back to it…
1993
There are a few screws holding the gauges to the assembly as well as a few that act as connectors to the circuit board. As long as you are careful and pay attention they’re easy to remove. *obviously, you will want to put them back in the correct location when you’re done. And it's pretty clear how it goes... but you might want to be organized when you lay it out to ensure it makes sense when you put it back.
Here’s a pic of the circuit board. Just a sheet of plastic with copper circuit print on it.
1989
I used a little 300 grit sandpaper to clean off the green crap on the connectors. Note the green nasty that is on the middle one.
1992
There are 9 that light the instruments and 3 that are used for the turn-signals and brights. Here’s a pic after I cleaned up and installed the board and replaced the 3 that will remain OEM...
** Also, I applied some dielectric grease to the connections so that they shouldn't corrode as fast next time (since I sanded away what little plastic coating was there...
1991
I also had my doubts that poor connections were the only problem as the OEM bulbs are positioned 2" - 3" behind the gauges! As if shining a flashlight around a corner? So I added some "silver duct tape" I picked up at Home Depot to add a little reflective action along the outer edges and on the back of the face plate.
1988
The rest of them are pending receipt from my LED order on e-bay.
** XJ Wheeler found the correct LED’s to replace the OEM and gave me this link:
“I would suggest something like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-T10-194...49a527&vxp=mtr” They run $10 for 10 blue (other colors available).
...BTW~ Thanks for the link to XJ Wheeler for looking out for me before I bought bulbs that may have not worked...
…I’ll post a part 2 to this thread once I get them in / and take a pic in the dark.
After I changed out the switch, I discovered that the lighting behind the instruments was WEAK to say the least.
1987
** That’s not a bad camera shot… It’s really that bad at night!
Based on the condition of the headlight switch, I wasn't sure of the condition of the circuit board. So I started by planning on what I might need and how much that was going to cost me… but fortunately, these plastic sheets are reasonably durable considering their purpose. **see pic below**
Here’s a pic of the dash. There’s 4 screws (least in mine) to remove the outer bezel and then 5 to pull out the instrument cluster assembly.
1994
1990
There’s 2 plugs (again, on mine) in the back. The clips at the top and bottom press easily to pop the plug out. I used a flathead screw driver. Note, there isn’t a lot of room to play with.
1986
The other plug is behind the far left section of lights (ie. Part Time / Seat Belt…)
Here’s the plug hanging out waiting for me to get back to it…
1993
There are a few screws holding the gauges to the assembly as well as a few that act as connectors to the circuit board. As long as you are careful and pay attention they’re easy to remove. *obviously, you will want to put them back in the correct location when you’re done. And it's pretty clear how it goes... but you might want to be organized when you lay it out to ensure it makes sense when you put it back.
Here’s a pic of the circuit board. Just a sheet of plastic with copper circuit print on it.
1989
I used a little 300 grit sandpaper to clean off the green crap on the connectors. Note the green nasty that is on the middle one.
1992
There are 9 that light the instruments and 3 that are used for the turn-signals and brights. Here’s a pic after I cleaned up and installed the board and replaced the 3 that will remain OEM...
** Also, I applied some dielectric grease to the connections so that they shouldn't corrode as fast next time (since I sanded away what little plastic coating was there...
1991
I also had my doubts that poor connections were the only problem as the OEM bulbs are positioned 2" - 3" behind the gauges! As if shining a flashlight around a corner? So I added some "silver duct tape" I picked up at Home Depot to add a little reflective action along the outer edges and on the back of the face plate.
1988
The rest of them are pending receipt from my LED order on e-bay.
** XJ Wheeler found the correct LED’s to replace the OEM and gave me this link:
“I would suggest something like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-T10-194...49a527&vxp=mtr” They run $10 for 10 blue (other colors available).
...BTW~ Thanks for the link to XJ Wheeler for looking out for me before I bought bulbs that may have not worked...
…I’ll post a part 2 to this thread once I get them in / and take a pic in the dark.