**LIFT question**

[rm2406]

hi all,
i have a stock lift 95 cherokee and considering a budget lift. my question is how much lift can i do without having to modify anything else such as transfer case drop,sye,adjustable control arms,etc.. and not have any vibes...
can i acheive my lift with just coil spacers up front and extended shackles in rear or blocks in rear.. dont have much $ to spend but can use a little lift, it wont see any offroading any time soon.. thanks in advance.

[prerunner1982]

A 2" budget is probably about as high as you want to go so that you don't have to change anything else. I just installed my 2"BBC this last week. I have not changed anything else and have no issues. However, I can tell my axle is not centered now due to still having my stock trackback. You will want to align the front to get you wheel straight and while you have the rear shackle/spring loose, loose cut the tip off your exhaust pipe otherwise your longer shackles will hit the pipe. I do need to flex it out to make sure my brake hoses are long enough but for city driving there are no issues.

[ArmyGuy45]

hi all,
i have a stock lift 95 cherokee and considering a budget lift. my question is how much lift can i do without having to modify anything else such as transfer case drop,sye,adjustable control arms,etc.. and not have any vibes...
can i acheive my lift with just coil spacers up front and extended shackles in rear or blocks in rear.. dont have much $ to spend but can use a little lift, it wont see any offroading any time soon.. thanks in advance.

I would say 3 is the safe bet. Anything higher than 4 you will run into issues.

[4.3LXJ]

3" is the best bang for the buck

[rm2406]

so with stock track bar my axle will be off??
and did you install the lift your self? how long did it take?

[prerunner1982]

so with stock track bar my axle will be off??
and did you install the lift your self? how long did it take?

The axle will be shifted to the drivers side. I did install it myself in my driveway. It took me a few hours, mostly for the front as I was using coil spring compressors and was taking my time as they can be rather dangerous. The back was a breeze.

[rm2406]

how did you get your axle staighten out? or is it still shifted?

[prerunner1982]

It is still shifted over, it's not much since only 2" of lift. It is noticeable if you really look at it.

[NW99XJ]

What is usually called a "budget Boost" or "BB" for short is in the 2" range....and yea usually consists of spacers in the front, and shackles in the rear.
I would recommend you stay away from lift blocks....they generally cause more problems then they are worth.
1.) They almost ALWAYS will lead to axle wrap (eventually) and that always will blow U-joints in a heartbeat.
2.) cast aluminum or cast iron blocks CAN blow apart, or crack, or otherwise break upon installation when cranking down the U-bolts to secure the springs back down to the axle.

Shackles are the way to go in the rear.... however be prepared for a lot of trouble. The shackle eye bolts can break or strip out the weld nuts in the frame pretty easy.
There is a metal sheath/sleeve inside the leaf spring bushing that likes to spin, the bolt will turn, and may back out of the threads part way, but will then just sit there, and not move. Often times the only solution is to destroy the bushing to get to that sleeve, to get a set of vice grips on it to prevent it from spinning.

Some tips: PB Blaster everything (this stuff is some of the best penetrating lubricant out there) ....spray everything down for DAAAAYS prior to any wrench turning....and be generous with it. Find a source of heat. You'll prob need it.
Have a backup plan for bolts breaking....its prob going to happen.
Replace as many bolts as you can along the way.

Other options are ZJ coils up front, these will net you about 1-1.5" of lift and can be sourced from a junkyard.
Other options for the rear would be to create a "bastard pack"
Bleepinjeep does a great "How-To" video in creating these...this utilizes one or more of the leaf springs from an S-10, in combination with the stock cherokee springs. This can net you anywhere from 2"-4" of lift, and again, at junkyard prices.
Part one of the BleepinJeep.com video here: ----> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3c8swLMirAM


Take a look at getting a track bar relocation bracket.....
http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=SKY_JTBF_PIC_4_1_72.jpg&partNo=SKY&w=400&h=400

This will recenter your front axle, as the more lift you go (even 2") ...the more the axle will get pulled to one side without an adjustable track bar installed.
They're real cheap at less than $30...maybe even less if you really hunt.

If you do have driveline vibrations, there are two inexpensive fixes.....
1.) angel shim the rear....these are angle blocks that go under the leaf springs....yes ...i know....very similar to lift blocks, however they are VERY thin, often times no more than 3/8"-1/2" at their thickest. These help direct the rear pinion towards the T-case better.
Another option would be T-case Drop....You may be able to fabricate this yourself with washers (in a pinch) or some good HD C-channel or aluminum bar stock drilled for clearance....you'll only need about an inch, if that.

I can go on and on as far as other things you'll want to consider, or think of, but since your not planning on taking this offraod anytime soon, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

The last thing you'll want to do is re-adjust your steering wheel back to center, as it will have rotated after the lift.
This is done by adjusting the sleeve on the drag link......
This is all easy-to-do type of stuff.....a good set of hand tools, a breaker bar, and some patience....and you'll be fine.
Good luck!
And be sure to post up some before and after pics too!!!

[rm2406]

thanks, any suprises i should be aware during the install?

[rm2406]

ok.. thanks all for the advise and tips.. i will post pics after install.

[NW99XJ]

if you get into replacing the shocks....the rear upper shock bolts WILL break....98% of us have had that happen.....prepare for it IF you ever get to that point.
And like I said, drown everything in PB Blaster.....multiple times a day, for like a WEEK before you even pick up a wrench.... seriously.

Have a second vehicle or a buddy on hand to make runs to the hardware store to replace nuts/bolts, if/when needed.
If replacing / rebuilding the leaf springs...the front eye bolt can be another pain in the A$$.... look thru my build thread (see link in my signature) ....i encountered all this stuff, and show a lot of pics on how to resolve these sort of issues when they arise.

Do your homework too....research alot of this stuff for a while before you delve into this project....it will help you in the long run. You'll be better prepared for surprises, and know what to expect, and how to deal with them if/when they arise.
Also the more research you do, the better educated you'll be about this stuff, AND it may end up changing your train of thought as to the direction of your build (this is not a bad thing!) lol.....
And of course....you can always turn to us for help and guidance.

[NW99XJ]

I would also highly recommend getting the "XJ High Performance Builders Guide"
Its super cheap, and I cant tell you how INVALUABLE source of information this is....
GET IT, READ IT, LOVE IT!!!!! (Its the best $20 you WILL EVER spend on your Cherokee - trust me)

High-Performance Jeep Cherokee XJ Builder's Guide 1984-2001: Eric Zappe: 9781613250655: Amazon.com: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61Q%2BA85c4OL.@@AMEPARAM@@61Q%2BA85c4OL

http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/72637100/BOOK%20JEEP%20CHEROKEE%20XJ%201984-2001.jpg

[rm2406]

sounds great as i love my jeep and working on it.. research is always best in any case!