Intro To Electrical & Audio Tips

[NW99XJ]

Hey Everyone,
We've created this portion of the site to coincide with the "Electrical & Audio Tips!" Segment on the podcast.
If you have a question, or have a project you are working on that you need some advice on, or maybe would like to understand more about something electrical or audio related, please feel free to post here.
If there is a topic that comes up frequently, or is particularly interesting, I may address it in the podcast!
No questions are off limits, and there's no such thing as a stupid question.
Just please keep it electrical or audio related.

[XJ Wheeler]

Wow, a whole new section. This place just keeps getting better.

[cpttuna]

I usually buy my primary wire from J.C.Whitney(either 25 or 100 ft rolls). Anyone know of a place with a better price?

[bad luck]

You might want to check Del City, and Waytek. I buy electrical supplies from them, they have a huge selection and good prices. Bob

[NW99XJ]

McMaster-Carr has 18awg stranded wire for $16.79 /per 100ft.
Fastenall has 500' rolls of 18awg stranded wire for $55.80 thats less than 12 bux per 100ft.
Amazon has 100ft spools of 18awg primary wire for $12.51
I see that the price at JC Whitney for 100ft rolls is $11.99 ...thats pretty good.
Unless you can set up a wholesale account somewhere and start buying it in 500ft rolls or something, I'd say you're doing ok going with JC whitney.
But if I may.... 18awg is a tad bit small... i'd be looking at 16awg for most automotive applications. Especially for wiring up anything like lights, or power sources (constant/ignition feed to a stereo, trigger wire for an amp, etc.)

[prerunner1982]

You might want to check Del City, and Waytek. I buy electrical supplies from them, they have a huge selection and good prices. Bob

I am looking at buying some thing from Del City for a couple future projects. Have you had an issues with them, what is the customer service like, and how is shipping? Thank you.

[cpttuna]

I have no Del city in my area. Sorry.

[Mudderoy]

I have no Del city in my area. Sorry.

Del Taco? spam

[samori]

I am thinking of redoing all the wiring in my jeep cause it looks really bad. I had to put electrical tape around wires that splitting and coming apart and what looks like rot. should I get a wire harness from junk yard or go buy one. I plain on this being my daily driver by this friday so I need to also know how long it can take to do the job.

[4.3LXJ]

You could use one from a wrecking yard. Might not be cheap though and a lot of work to put in a complete one. If it was me, I would just fix the bad parts by splicing in new wire where damaged.

[KH96XJ]

My wiring is screwed up from the previous owner. I'm thinking I should get a separate aux fuse panel to run the aftermarket radio, CB and spot lights from. Any recommendations on where to pick one up for cheap?

[NW99XJ]

Painless Wiring makes alot of wiring solutions kits... from complete rewire, to auxiliary fuse panels etc.
Morris 4x4 has a decent selection of their stuff: (KH96XJ)
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/painless-performance/index.htm

Right now I dont think that Painless makes an XJ re-wire kit... I know they have them for CJ's and YJ's, but they may have a "universal" kit that would suit the needs for a complete rewire (Samuri)

[TimmyTXJ]

Painless Wiring makes alot of wiring solutions kits... from complete rewire, to auxiliary fuse panels etc.
Morris 4x4 has a decent selection of their stuff: (KH96XJ)
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/painless-performance/index.htm

Right now I dont think that Painless makes an XJ re-wire kit... I know they have them for CJ's and YJ's, but they may have a "universal" kit that would suit the needs for a complete rewire (Samuri)

I used a Painless Harness on my '68 Cougar. The kit was beautifully packed, with all the ancillaries labeled and separated by size or function. The harness itself had the function of each circuit printed on each wire about every 8 inches. The instructions were very easy to follow. I'd highly recommend them if they have an XJ specific harness. :cheerleader:

[4.3LXJ]

I have a painless harness on my rig too, but last time I checked they don't make any OEM harnesses unless for old Jeeps. And those are by no means complete. They specialize in add on stuff and engine transplants. So if you want to shoe horn a small block in, then they make it.

[NW99XJ]

Well you're only option may be to spend the day at the junkyard and pull one. Or at least part of one, and replace what you can thats gone bad.
Good luck man, thats gonna be a pretty big project.

[Dredwolf]

I feel this is electrical and audio related, but move it if I am wrong.:rolleyes:

Where are the best entry points into the passenger compartment for aux. wiring and accessories thru the firewall?

[NW99XJ]

By the brake booster there are a few spots where wires/cable are going thru already. There are also a few "soft plugs" there... stamped locations that are a clear path thru that you would drill and grommet. Use a right angle drill for easy access or center punch, use a small bit to pilot hole it, and then use a Uni-bit to make a larger hole. Uni-bits are an item that should be in every tool box. Another option is the main harness location...it has a big rubber boot that has plenty of room in it., Make a small incision...CAREFULLY ...not to damage any other wires... .and feed a snake thru it.... I use a really really long zip tie, or a coat hanger (the coat hanger could also just puncture the boot and you can pull directly thru that, but it would be harder) ...that way you can tape your wires to it and pull it thru...use a spot of window cleaner as lubricant to make it slide thru easier.

[Dredwolf]

Good info, the previous owner drilled holes in the passenger floorboard...:bang:

For a single power lead for a monster amp, and the PA speaker for the CB.:crazy:

[Carves]

Where are the best entry points into the passenger compartment for aux. wiring and accessories thru the firewall?



By the brake booster there are a few spots where wires/cable are going thru already.

Next to the brake booster seems to work - whether its a LHD ... or a RHD .. :D



http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Vehicle%20Bits/Electrical/Firewall01.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Vehicle%20Bits/Electrical/Firewall02.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Vehicle%20Bits/Electrical/Firewall03.jpg

[Dredwolf]

Next to the brake booster seems to work - whether its a LHD ... or a RHD .. :D


http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Vehicle%20Bits/Electrical/Firewall01.jpg



Jeeze, I don't think my XJ was that clean the day it rolled off the line :D

[4.3LXJ]

Mine used to be, but a few mud holes took care of that. Hasn't been blue under the hood since. It is all kind of red now

[Dredwolf]

Since the rear fender trim IMPENDING DISASTER has been solved by welding, and my windows work, back to the electrical concerns before I add a radio and re-work the CB and do something with the speakers.

As I mentioned, previous owner drilled a nice big hole in the passenger floor board to pass a power lead and the PA speaker cable for the CB. Thanks to the above, I have a plan.

Obviously, I need to add circuits, and clean up the steak knife trimmed mess at the Optima battery. A winch, forward lights, and backup lights are planned, too.

I can get a project box and work up my own accessory panel, but who makes the best add-on module for extra circuits?

[NW99XJ]

Fitchva used to be a person/place to turn to for this kind of stuff, he's around the forums a lot, and has been a pillar in the Jeep electronic field. He's done an immense amount of R&D when it comes to project wiring in jeeps, and has even developed some "project boxes" specifically for what you're doing. But I just looked, and it appears as if he may have gone into retirement. Doesn't appear that his website is working anymore. So with that, I may recommend going with a painless wiring kit. They have various sizes, and features, and any one of them would be a good alternative. Your local parts store may also have some other options, you may have to spend a day driving around and seeing what they have to offer.

[prerunner1982]

Thought I had posted this before but can't find where.... I think a good topic for this segment would be how to fix the gauge cluster issue most/alot of Cherokees have.

What reminded me of this you say? My gauges quit on me on my way to work. :rolleyes:

I am familiar with the issue as this isn't the first time I have dealt with it, but for others out there it may be good info.

[Carves]

Fitchva used to be a person/place to turn to for this kind of stuff, he's around the forums a lot, and has been a pillar in the Jeep electronic field. He's done an immense amount of R&D when it comes to project wiring in jeeps, and has even developed some "project boxes" specifically for what you're doing. But I just looked, and it appears as if he may have gone into retirement. Doesn't appear that his website is working anymore. So with that, I may recommend going with a painless wiring kit. They have various sizes, and features, and any one of them would be a good alternative. Your local parts store may also have some other options, you may have to spend a day driving around and seeing what they have to offer.


Yeah FitchVa is down by the looks of things ..

I used to keep some links as they were handy reference for others ... His headlight rewire was quite detailed and simple to follow.

Think he moved inter-State but it hasnt worked out all that well for him ??

[NW99XJ]

Thought I had posted this before but can't find where.... I think a good topic for this segment would be how to fix the gauge cluster issue most/alot of Cherokees have.

What reminded me of this you say? My gauges quit on me on my way to work. :rolleyes:

I am familiar with the issue as this isn't the first time I have dealt with it, but for others out there it may be good info.

In MY experience, the gauge cluster issue stems from a couple possibilities.... the primary one is the connection point.... i.e; the contacts from the cluster to the harness socket. These oxidize slightly over time, and vibration/impact will diminish connectivity, resulting in loss of signal.

The other issue that arises (party from this) is poor ground connection. There are several ground points in the dashboard sub-frame, that over time, can wiggle/vibrate, or otherwise work their way loose a bit. These are similar to the ground straps in the engine bay, and are points in which various devices/electronics in the dash come together to receive ground connection from the firewall or body.

Those who have ever taken the dash off to do a heater core swap know what i'm talking about.
Tightening these will help several things, and cleaning contact points in both the harness socket the cluster seats into as well as the contacts on the cluster itself will help as well. Sometimes resetting the contact points by slightly, and very carefully bending them inwards toward the middle more, will help create a more snug contact with the mating surface.

Now that's all taking into consideration that the cluster hasn't gone bad. In some cases the flex board (a flexy almost paper thin circuit board) on the back of the cluster, that contains "trace layers" -hair like circuit pathways in which electrical current passes. These can be damaged easily. If you've ever had to swap out a light in the cluster, the bulb housing when tightened into its socket, makes contact with this in two areas. If one of these trace layers gets broken, damaged, or in some way burnt out form a voltage spike, or a short, then your S.O.L.... these are very hard to repair and in most cases, swapping out the cluster is the best solution.

I hope I've shed some light on this, and if there's any other questions, please feel free to post them up, and I may decide to address those, and the aforementioned tips/topic on the podcast in the "Electrical & Audio Tips" segment.

[bad luck]

I just wanted to thank Josh, using a unibit is great for making controlled openings through the sheetmetal. Before with a regular drill bit once it broke through it normally went the full length of the drill possibly damaging wiring or something else, not with the unibit. I use sxl wire for almost everything I do, it can handle heat a lot better than the pvc insulation and doesn't cost much more money. And I try not to use the cheapo connectors from the auto parts store, I like amp terminals with nylon insulation. (pidg terminals) or just uninsulated with heat shrink tubing.

[bad luck]

Prerunner 1982, I am sorry I didn't reply sooner, you asked about service from Del City. I have had pretty good service from them. Since I can't buy anything here locally, at least not the price and quality that I want I almost always use mail order. But Spectro wire in Moore, Oklahoma has the best prices I have found on good sxl wire. And they carry alot of other stuff as well.

[TANGOTX]

hey guys and gals, I am installing a new aluminum radiator and a 3 fan cooling accessory, I need to know if there is an easy ignition wire or fuse plug for a 1995 jeep XJ under the hood or do I need to route to the fuse panel???
Thanks in advance

[NW99XJ]

There should be one near the PDC (Power Distribution Center).... I'm not sure of the color, or exact location,
....but what I CAN tell you is that the ignition wire in the actual ignition harness is going to be a larger blue wire, the accessory wire is going to be purple.
Look for these larger gauge wires (should be somewhere around 12awg or so) near the PDC, and using a test light and someone to work the ignition, probe these wires (if found) to verify.