PDA

View Full Version : Meet Blaqk



Pages : [1] 2

07Negative
08-15-2012, 12:47 AM
I've been wanting to start a build thread ever since I started frequenting Jeep Forums. XJTalk is a forum I actually like. So here is goes. But just like anything I type anywhere. I have to provide a disclaimer.

Disclaimer: I'm rude and use a vocabulary not comfortable to many. I might smoke a joint before I type. I am by no means someone you should follow instructions from. I know nothing! My camera was stolen when some ass hat decided to break into my house. So I'm not always as prompt when it comes to leaving pictures. This build thread will be more wordy than it will be visual. If comprehension is not your strong point. I suggest reading more. Done.

Back to the prick that broke into my house. I had a Canon 5D with some dope L series lenses. An external hard drive and memory cards. All taken. So I don't have images from when I started. So I'm going to fast forward a bit, while leaving out some details and the yada yada stuff.

I bought the Jeep from a fella, who has since become a friend. He did a Rusty's lift on it and some other typical junk. At the time. The tires were BFG A/T 32" that were cupping more than a porn star. I changed out the steering and the wet noodle for shocks and BFG KMII's in 32". Done and Done.

I have since broken many bolts. Add Clayton leaf springs, Fox shocks (which suck and are a waste of money. Lesson learned, eh). Locker, TNT customs frame stiffiner'z, Borgeson steering shaft, Hesco cooling, 3 row radiator, IronMan motor mounts. Exhaust manifold, exhaust, And some other odds and ends. That are clearly not important enough to mention since I can't remember their specifics.

My main objective with this XJ (it's my third). Is for it to be a jack of all trades and a master of none. But for it to be to it's best ability. At least to what my wallet can bent too. If you've read this far. Your not as illiterate as I thought you'd be. Did I mention I can't spell for crap and don't care? But yet still have a degree in physics. Amazing what money can buy yeah.

On to more interesting things. Pictures (assuming I know how to post them).

4.3LXJ
08-15-2012, 12:50 AM
Dee Jay, Vids are not downloading for me.

07Negative
08-15-2012, 12:52 AM
They're just images actually. They are from Flickr. I don't have them saved to my desktop. Maybe I should do that instead

4.3LXJ
08-15-2012, 12:53 AM
That might work better.

07Negative
08-15-2012, 01:07 AM
And I may add that my best friend is a puppy rot named, "Hans." He'll appear in many photos. I'll load more images.

Mudderoy
08-17-2012, 01:08 PM
Disclaimer: I'm rude and use a vocabulary not comfortable to many. I am by no means someone you should follow instructions from. I know nothing! This build thread will be more wordy than it will be visual. If comprehension is not your strong point. I suggest reading more. Done.

I may add this to the podcast... :rotfl2:

07Negative
08-21-2012, 11:38 AM
I just got back from Maui. But the night before leaving. I didn't pack my 1 bag. Oops. I spent the evening with the angle grinder trying to take the mounts off the Dana 30. It took me about 45 minutes just to get the passenger side upper control arm mount off.
Today is my first day back and I was suppose to go to work 2 hours away. But my Jeep wont start b/c the started is caked with oil. So I'll be replacing the starter. I'm thinking its a good time to replace those leaking gaskets.
Its the oil pan I'm worried about. I also noticed that the oil pan drain plug is leaking. But I just bought a new one. From the dealer even! I have some "Make your gasket" stuff that I got from the plumbing shop that I'm going to see will work. I didn't notice a crack around the plug area. I know it can happen if the plug is too tight too often.

I've also come into restrictions with my lack of tools. I've only got 3/8" Tools since my old box was stolen. So I'll need to acquire 1/2" again. I'm shopping craigslist for a used compressor and I'll just buy a new gun and sockets. I've been wanting air tools forever!

4.3LXJ
08-21-2012, 12:18 PM
They are handy Dee Jay

07Negative
08-21-2012, 10:15 PM
My buddy left me his electric impact wrench. For how cheesie that sounds. The bloody thing worked rather well. But air tools are on my list of things to get soon. The cost of building the jeep up is looking more and more expensive with needing new tools and all. Oh well!
Today I replaced the starter. When I took it off. It rattled like a babies toy. The connection was dripping with oil.
I also cut the drivers side front fender. I did the masking tape thing. Used a pencil to trace the OEM fender flare. I do want the same geometry just bigger opening. My only discrepancy is now I can see the window washer res. I don't really like it. Though this is not a permanent solution. I'll just have to live with it.
Future plans are to make tube flares.
I want to do the rear fenders a certain way, but its far more involved than the tuck and fold nonsense. Here is a link to how I'd like to do the rear fender trimming.
http://www.bsfab.net/?p=132
I'm also liking the tuck and fold of the rear lower quarter panel. The rear bumper that I'll be getting will require that quarter panel to be cut.

4.3LXJ
08-21-2012, 10:27 PM
Deejay, if you use an earlier washer bottle off the Renix era XJ, it will bolt in above the fender under the hood.

07Negative
08-21-2012, 10:49 PM
Sweet! Thanks for that info. I was about to start looking around for solutions. I only cut off 2.5" And maybe about 1/2" is showing. Maybe a touch more. I'll pick one up next time I'm at J&W pullers.
Now to figure out how to get these images on here. I think the file size may be a touch too large.

4.3LXJ
08-21-2012, 10:56 PM
Have you tried photobucket yet. It works well for me, except for my AVI vids

07Negative
08-21-2012, 11:05 PM
So here is how I went about cutting the front fenders. While the fenders were still attached. I threw down some masking tape while trying to get a about 2 or 3mm under the flare. I did so by pulling on the cheapo thing. Just a light pull gave me a big enough gap to squeeze enough tape under it. Then I used a pencil to trace the OEM fender flares to keep the same arch. I did follow it up with a thin marker. Making it so the lines could not be mistaken.
The tools I used was 10mm deep wall socket. 1/4" rachet. This was utilized to remove the flares. Factory used these long freakin threads. Most of them snapped like most bolts on this Jeep. So it made for light work. To date my favorite purchase was my Bosch angle grinder. So I employed that, with a cut off wheel. And to get clean lines for the corners. I used my other homie, Dremel.
I would have loved a pneumatic body saw for this. But I don't have one.
So it seems my photos file size is too large. Getting images on here is not as easy as I'd like to be lazy.

07Negative
08-21-2012, 11:23 PM
With fender flare
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_9877.jpg

Without fender flare
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_9878.jpg

I did say I cut the drivers side. Which I didn't take a pic of yet. I had moved the car to do an errand. So I changed the positioning of the car so I wouldn't continue to burn in the sun. I'm already red.

07Negative
08-21-2012, 11:55 PM
This is from when I installed the frame stiffeners. Stiffeners are from TNT Customs. Welder is a Lincoln Electric. This was quite a bit of work. Prepping was painful. So much stuff floating in the air while the wire wheel was taking road grime and paint off. The welding took a couple of sessions. I blew through the unibody 3 times. Nothing big though. But well worth the upgrade. These stiffeners are the middle section. The fronts I don't have pictures of...... I think....
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0612.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0910.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0920.jpg

Mudderoy
08-22-2012, 12:12 AM
I just got back from Maui. But the night before leaving. I didn't pack my 1 bag. Oops. I spent the evening with the angle grinder trying to take the mounts off the Dana 30. It took me about 45 minutes just to get the passenger side upper control arm mount off.
Today is my first day back and I was suppose to go to work 2 hours away. But my Jeep wont start b/c the started is caked with oil. So I'll be replacing the starter. I'm thinking its a good time to replace those leaking gaskets.
Its the oil pan I'm worried about. I also noticed that the oil pan drain plug is leaking. But I just bought a new one. From the dealer even! I have some "Make your gasket" stuff that I got from the plumbing shop that I'm going to see will work. I didn't notice a crack around the plug area. I know it can happen if the plug is too tight too often.

I've also come into restrictions with my lack of tools. I've only got 3/8" Tools since my old box was stolen. So I'll need to acquire 1/2" again. I'm shopping craigslist for a used compressor and I'll just buy a new gun and sockets. I've been wanting air tools forever!

I love my 1/2" 575 foot pound impact!

07Negative
08-22-2012, 12:14 AM
One upgrade I'm kind of on the fence about is the Borgeson steering shaft. I have been in search of a very particular feel in the steering. I've concluded, unless I buy another M3. I wont find what I'm looking for.
A few details on this shaft if you ever get one. What Borgeson states that'll fit an XJ is wrong. Or at least it was when I bought mine, which was only about 6 months ago. It came in far too short and the spline count for the steering column was off by a few. But I called them up and they worked with. I would feel completely confident to use this shaft as a weapon of mass destruction, no question.
Install was interesting to say the least. I'd never taken one out nor put one in. The OEM uses I think 10mm bolts at both ends. Take em out, compress the shaft. Slide it out. Its kinda like sex. I think it took me about 30 minutes which included urinating on my friends cat that I didn't see in the bush. Not my fault, it was dark and well. The cat is black.
Here is a pic comparing the two.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0968.jpg

07Negative
08-22-2012, 12:23 AM
This is why I've decided to build what may possibly be seen as a turd of a axle. The Dana 30. The High Pinion variety. I will at some point when money falls under my ass and I can just order a ton of parts from Serious Off Road to finish it. By that time I'll have demonstrated exactly how to spend far too much of your income on a Dana 30. And possibly show you what not to do. It would be cool if I showed you what to do. But I highly doubt that will happen. But my g/f got me this some time ago. It too, has been in the stack of parts I've been hording in the garage.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0798.jpg

07Negative
08-27-2012, 12:05 AM
I'm grinding away at the front axle slowly but surely. I'm working 7 days a week and with having a 11 month old. I hardly get a damn thing done.
Chopping off these brackets is a major P.I.T.A!
I think on September 9th I'll be taking the Jeep down. Do the transmission filter and gasket as well as the valve cover gasket. Then throw the Jeep on jack stands and install the belly pan. There is a retarded amount of drilling required for this belly pan. And I've read that it's almost an all day thing in its self.

07Negative
08-31-2012, 04:58 PM
I finally got someone to buy my trumpet. So once I get the money in my hands. I'll be buying a compressor. I'll be stoked!

bluedragon436
09-01-2012, 07:25 AM
Awesome build thread so far... Can't wait to see as the build continues!!

07Negative
09-02-2012, 02:13 PM
So I've been ranting about a Dana 44 build on a thread in modified section, which I'll stop posting in. I'm also working on a Dana 30/44 hybrid, which I've put the most amount of energy into. I actually haven't even touched the Dana 44 yet. Other than to put it on jack stands to get it off the ground.

Plans for the Dana 44 consist of: 33 spline alloy inners, Detroit locker, Disc brake conversion, 4.56 ring and pinion cryro treated, RuffStuff diff cover, 1350 Ujoints, and a yoke to fit the 1350 ujoints. I am considering TNT's U bolt eliminator kit, And I'll be chopping off the shock mounts to locate them higher up. I may also do new spring perches if I don't do the U bolt eliminator kit. Only b/c I want to not that I really need to. I just want a really kick butt axle.

Now the Dana 30/44 thing is going to be a long time in the making b/c front axles are so much more expensive. But for now I've been chopping off all the OEM mounts. To date, I've got the passenger side free and clear of all mounts and welds. I'll start Monday with the drivers side. It's tighter space to work in. And I learned from the other side what not to do. I wasted a lot of time and exhausted my efforts on the passenger side. So I wont be doing that again.
It's a ton of work and I get too excited about what's perfect. So much that I've phukt up a little already. But it's not all that bad, just not perfect.

The stats for Dana 30/44 hybrid consist of D30 housing. Chopping mounts, TNT truss with all mounts set up for high steer, Reids outer knuckles, Super 30 inners, Detroit locker, manual locking hubs, 4.56 ring and pinion cryro treated, Ford outers and disc brakes, 5x5.5 lug pattern, 1350 yoke, all new U joints of course. I was thinking of CTM's but I've been hearing some fellas say not to bother with them. I think that's about it.

Now I know this front axle build changes alot of things. Hell, your steering and track bar are up there. You've got sway bars, your coils, and shocks. And then your control arms are there so the axle stays kinda put. I've got a new track bar and mount, I'm replacing my existing 4.5" Rusty's coils with Claytons 4.5" coils and adding ACOS (6" of lift total and no higher I swear this time!), The last thing you do is your steering. That's right, your tie rod and drag link are last. Or actually more like drag link really. You have to see how all the geometry looks when your done with all that stuff you've got going on. But I'll be doing a cross over steering setup. You can read else where about the debate of what is truly high steer vs cross over steering. I frankly don't give a shit. I may also ditch the JKS disco's in lieu of the Anti Rock sway bars. You can essentially put that same kit together for about 40% less the cost of what Currie offers it for. I haven't done the homework on that yet. But I know you look at drag racing setups. They employ a very similar setup.

Now this coming Tuesday I'll be throwing the Jeep up on jack stands to finally install the long arm kit. I've been sitting on this LA kit for a year. Stupid I know! But with a new born, redoing my landscaping, building new fences, setting up rain collection barrels and a veggie garden. I'm mad busy. I also had my tool's stolen out of my garage a few years back and I haven't recopped them. Doing this kinda work with 3/8's ratchet and sockets don't cut it. I learned after 2 broken breaker bars and 4 sockets.
Since I only have a few days that I can afford to have my Jeep down. I may or may not get to address my steering. Which consist of AGR gear box and pump. Along with drilling the 4th hole for the gear box (it has 4 mounting holes unlike the 3 hole OEM box), I'm also replacing the aluminum spacer with metal spacer and frame plate. I've also got to consider my drop pitman arm. I'm getting some dump steer and am consulting with Steve (4.3LXJ) on how to figure out which arm I'll need.

I've recently sold a few odds and ends to get $500 in my pocket. I'm getting a Craftsman 26 gallon upright compressor and 1/2" tools. I had someone take some pictures while I was working on the axles. I'll post them once I get home and have the memory card handy. Thanks for reading my jibber jabber.

07Negative
09-03-2012, 01:39 AM
Photo's for the illiterate. I started taking off the drivers side mounts tonight. My plan of attack this time around has prevailed. I've done alot in only a hour. Tomorrow is pretty much just grinding things down. Then I'll check the tube to make sure it's not all bent outa shape or anything.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0048.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0019.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0045.jpg

07Negative
09-03-2012, 07:59 PM
Labor day is right! I've labored my skinny ass to death today. Sold my trumpet this morning to a really cool family. I'm glad it went to them. Then I high tailed it over to Sears to get a compressor. It came with impact gun and wrench. I picked up sockets to go along with the deal. The hose had a hole in it bigger than any vagina I'd ever set my eyes on. Sears told me to bring the entire thing back. So I bought another hose. i wont be shopping there again. I've never really liked Craftsman crappy tools, but I'm too poor to afford Snap On again. Well.... at least for now.
But I tell you what. It sound like Pho king NASCAR over here today. Yeah buddy! I've made it official. I'm giving up women for power tools! Who needs T&A when you got (insert air gun sound here)?
I'm almost finished with the all the cutting and grinding of the Dana 30. I'm inventing adjustable saw horses that are capable of holding 2K lbs. My back is on hurt status, bending over and all that jazz.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0059.jpg

oderdene
09-04-2012, 12:24 AM
good purchase, congrats to processing d30 at all.






sorry to neighbors :P

07Negative
09-04-2012, 03:07 PM
Something I did not take into account with my current steering issues is the length of both track bar and the drag link. Not to mention that they are not quite parallel. But I've got a new pitman arm on order. It's 1 5/8" longer than OEM. I'm also going to try this washers thing.

I was told instead of using poly spacers to use metal washers. If your not up to speed on drag link and tie rods for XJ's. There is the OEM style which is referred to as a inverted Y. Another option is a inverted T system. Great design, but has a major issue called the "dead" spot. The reason why this happens is b/c your drag link has a tie rod end (TRE) that connects to the tie rod its self. So when you turn your steering wheel, the drag link causes the tie rod to roll. The band aid for this is to replace the dust boot on the TRE on the tie rod with a poly spacer that is thick enough to prevent that rolling from happening. New to me is instead of poly spacers, use metal washers. You'll have to stack them equally as thick as what the poly spacer would be. And the reason for that is that the metal washers are less likely to crush.
I'm not completely sold on that ideal though. Washers for one are rather thin. Somewhere between 2-3mm thick each? If there is any amount of pressure on them over a long period of time. They are bound to crack with repetative pressure. There is bound to be some amount of roll in that tie rod. You'd be right back to what the poly spacer issue would have, which is either splitting or compressing. I do suppose washers are readily available and cheap! I'm thinking washers may have more of a negative impact on the tie rod it's self. Going back to that thing of the tie rod having some sort of roll in it means those washers might dig into the tie rod. Might be marginal but still compensating the tie rods structural integrity? I don't know. Either way I'll find out.

07Negative
09-06-2012, 12:37 AM
Got the Jeep up on Jack stands. I've taken the front end apart. Noticed the sway bar bushings are trashed. Tomorrow I'll take the steering gear box and pump out and hopefully install the long arms and new gear box and pump. I think I can manage that on my own tomorrow, right?

4.3LXJ
09-06-2012, 11:18 AM
Should be able to

bluedragon436
09-06-2012, 11:27 AM
Awesome purchase.. I would think teh saw horses would make it easier to work on the items.. just have to get someone to help you lift them up there, otherwise you'll still be in pain.. LOL.. Doesn't make sense why they wanted you to bring everything in just to replace the hose with a hole in it.. I've never had any issues with my Craftsman purchases.. but I love the Snap=on tools I have too.. just wish they werent so expensive..

07Negative
09-06-2012, 12:31 PM
I can't get the bloody tranny pan to come completely off. It's that dang tip stick. That bracket that is connected to the bell housing is getting hung up on everything.
And I'm sick so I'm agro beyond my own comfort level. I'm annoyed with myself even

07Negative
09-07-2012, 01:02 PM
Yesterday was a bust! I was way too ambitious. Between being sick, still not having the right tools, the jeep is caked with oil, and yesterdays temp was in the 80's when the news guy said it would be 70. And that damn transmission pan was a P.I.T.A to get off. Then to take off all the ATF gasket stuff. That was caked on too. But that alone took up my morning and early afternoon.

Then the in laws came from Sacramento. My g/f's mom always freaks out when she see's me working on my Jeep. "Your going to get cancer or why don't you buy a new car?" My g/f is also an advocate for me to get a new car. But I don't think there is a single "new" car I'd actually want to buy. And why in the hell would anyone want to be married to a bank? I mean, that's what it really is. You pay 6% interest on a POS $20K+ car. Explain the logic in that!

Knowing me, I'd return back from car shopping with another project car. 56' WV oval window, or a 66' Chevelle, 64' Nova, 50' chevy 5 window cab truck, or a Jeep Kaiser.

So yesterday consisted of breaking a few more bolts, servicing the transmission, more disassembling, new transmission mount. Which I'm trying out one of those Day Star mounts. Not sure I'll keep it. When mounted, it doesn't sit the same way as the OEM. I'll have to post pix of what I'm talking about. But one side (closest to the front of vehicle) the threads are angled. As if the mount when bolted down is rocked about 7-10 degrees. I don't get that?

When I get home after work today. I'll throw the belly pan on and mark up the support brace holes that I have to drill. By that time it'll be too dark to drill holes into the uni body. At least accurate holes.

I did attempt to take the steering gear box out. However, the lines connected to it, that come from the steering pump are not interested in being removed. I think I might just replace them with brand new ones. Yes added expense and way out of way to go retrieve them. But then I can just yank all that crap out and not worry about being polite about it. But first to find out how much that will set me back.

Sorry for the lack of pictures. I know its way too boring to read without images. But once you see how grease packed my jeans are. There's no way I'm touching a camera. And it's my g/f's camera at that.

07Negative
09-07-2012, 01:13 PM
Awesome purchase.. I would think teh saw horses would make it easier to work on the items.. just have to get someone to help you lift them up there, otherwise you'll still be in pain.. LOL.. Doesn't make sense why they wanted you to bring everything in just to replace the hose with a hole in it.. I've never had any issues with my Craftsman purchases.. but I love the Snap=on tools I have too.. just wish they werent so expensive..

The saw horses do raise them. But I'm almost 6'1". Believe it or not, I do lift those axles on my own. I have no friends. So I do everything solo.
When I was 13, I got this Craftsman X amount piece tool kit, which worked great for my BMX bike back then. But as i got more involved with my motorcycles and my first car or truck rather was a 1950 5 window cab Chevy pickup. Those tools became obsolete. I had broken damn near every single 3/8's and 1/2 socket and ratchet I had owned. I just think Craftsman is junk. And to find 6 point sockets seems to be impossible with them. Everything is 12 point. But it is what it is and it'll be what I'll be. I'm poor so that's what I can afford for now. I also think b/c Sears is damn near bankrupt and on it's way out of business. Their customer service/support is in the toilet. Break a Snap On tool rusted or not. They replace it. Not Sears.

07Negative
09-07-2012, 01:51 PM
For entertainment purposes. I called the Dealership to find out how much the pressure and return lines would be for the steering. Pressure line $138.10. Return line $169.50. That's over $300. A call to Quadratec priceless. Only $60 shipped for both parts. I called my near by NAPA, but some times they are doh doh's. And in this case, they were.
Part number for Pressure line is 52088489AB. Part number for Return line 52037645. Just in case anyone needed that.

XJ Wheeler
09-07-2012, 05:51 PM
For entertainment purposes. I called the Dealership to find out how much the pressure and return lines would be for the steering. Pressure line $138.10. Return line $169.50. That's over $300. A call to Quadratec priceless. Only $60 shipped for both parts. I called my near by NAPA, but some times they are doh doh's. And in this case, they were.
Part number for Pressure line is 52088489AB. Part number for Return line 52037645. Just in case anyone needed that.

Just looked it up and at Autozone you can get the pressure line for $20 and return for $18.

07Negative
09-07-2012, 06:50 PM
I don't have a Auto Zone around where I'm at. We use to, but now it's a O'Rillies. I can't shop at that store. They've given me 3 wrong parts. Just a bunch of stoner kids working there. I'm still happy with paying $60. At least it's not $300.

XJ Wheeler
09-07-2012, 09:19 PM
I don't have a Auto Zone around where I'm at. We use to, but now it's a O'Rillies. I can't shop at that store. They've given me 3 wrong parts. Just a bunch of stoner kids working there. I'm still happy with paying $60. At least it's not $300.

Been there!

07Negative
09-07-2012, 11:03 PM
This is the new transmission mount in place and how it's kinda rockin up on one side and lower on the other.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0067-1.jpg

4.3LXJ
09-07-2012, 11:09 PM
Check your motor mounts DeeJay

07Negative
09-08-2012, 12:56 AM
Interesting you say that. The front of the valve cover is heading on that same plane. But I've got the IronMan mounts. I was going to loosen the motor mounts to see if there is any settling.
When I'm supporting the tranny. I'm not really putting any pressure on it. So it shouldn't be manipulating anything.
I'll post pix of that tomorrow with the day light.

07Negative
09-09-2012, 01:03 PM
Alrighty! I'm back in the swing today. These two photo's show how my valve cover is rockin kinda up in the front. I do have a Transfer Case drop. I'm thinking it might have something to do with this. But I also have the IronMan motor mounts, which say it lifts the motor about an inch. Not sure if it contributes to this angle.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0072-1.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0071.jpg

07Negative
09-09-2012, 01:05 PM
I don't think I'll be addressing the above issue today. But instead this:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0075.jpg

07Negative
09-09-2012, 03:58 PM
I'm having some hang ups. Need some input. Especially if you have installed a TNT kit before.
So I'm having a issue with lining up the holes right. Now I know it'll be a bit of a struggle at times since 4 wheeling a unibody can over time make the entire vehicle a bit off kilter. But what I'm experiencing is pretty far off. I'm thinking it's more the fab work on this skid plate. But anyhow, here are some pix..

This first one is of the drivers side. The front of the vehicle is on the right side of the image/your computer screen.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_7904.jpg

Same side just another angle.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_7905.jpg

These next 2 pix are of the passenger side to show how much of a difference there is. Now the front of the vehicle is pointing to the top of your monitor.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_7906.jpg

Another angle

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_7907.jpg

This next image is a macro shot of how far off the holes are from lining up on the passenger side.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_7914.jpg

07Negative
09-09-2012, 04:01 PM
Now I know what you might be thinking. "Apply some force to line them up."
I would have to agree with that, but! The transmission mounts wont allow it. The TNT belly pan is notched for the tranny mount threads to slid back and forth. As in rear of the vehicle or more forward of the vehicle. Not side to side of vehicle.

What I'm on the fence about doing is taking my Dremel and cutting a little away so that I can allow the tranny mount threads to go side to side. Would I be foolish for doing this?

4.3LXJ
09-09-2012, 04:09 PM
Use the dremel. Looks like the thing can be shifted a little to the side too. One suggestion: Use the rubber mount instead of what you have. They are much more forgiving. Mine don't line up exactly either on the crossmember

Carves
09-09-2012, 04:17 PM
Just looking at the pics ...

The crossmember looks as if it just needs to move over - to centre the holes.

When you say the gearbox wont allow that .... you mean you have the crossmember centred to suit the current gearbox position ??

... any chance the gearbox isnt in the "correct" position ??

07Negative
09-09-2012, 04:22 PM
Steve, I did actually switch out that Day Star tranny mount. It's horribly wrong! Not sure if you remember this or not. But on the OEM setup (tranny, motor, etc) the tranny mount should be set up only one way. Otherwise it will shift the treads to the tranny mount to one direction that is not desirable. That DayStar wouldn't permit this, regardless of which way you mounted it. What a crappy purchase. I just hope the butt holes over at 4 wheel parts will return it for store credit at the least. For how much I hate that store! And I mean the same kind of hate I have towards Walmart and Costco! Like a bad case of the herpes!

07Negative
09-09-2012, 04:25 PM
Just looking at the pics ...

The crossmember looks as if it just needs to move over - to centre the holes.

When you say the gearbox wont allow that .... you mean you have the crossmember centred to suit the current gearbox position ??

... any chance the gearbox isnt in the "correct" position ??

I didn't mention anything of the gear box in my current conundrum. Which is the cross member/belly pan for the install of the long arm kit.
Are we on the same page?

Carves
09-09-2012, 04:43 PM
I didn't mention anything of the gear box in my current conundrum. Which is the cross member/belly pan for the install of the long arm kit.
Are we on the same page?


Maybe not ... :D

Going by your previous post ...


Now I know what you might be thinking. "Apply some force to line them up."
I would have to agree with that, but! The transmission mounts wont allow it. The TNT belly pan is notched for the tranny mount threads to slid back and forth. As in rear of the vehicle or more forward of the vehicle. Not side to side of vehicle.

What I'm on the fence about doing is taking my Dremel and cutting a little away so that I can allow the tranny mount threads to go side to side. Would I be foolish for doing this?


.... I had a mind picture of you having the cross member positioned to suit wherever the gearbox and attached mount currently are ..... causing the unibody mounting holes to be misaligned.



Never having fitted one ... Im guessing the tranny needs to move sideways ... or the crossmember was fabbed wrong.

If you centre the crossmember mounts ... how far off are the gearbox mount holes ??

07Negative
09-09-2012, 04:52 PM
When I read the words, "Gear box" I'm thinking of the steering gear box. So I just think our verbage is just not connecting.
But I think you've got the right ideal. The cross member needs to be allowed to shift from once side to allow proper lining up, for the unibody bolts to clear.

07Negative
09-10-2012, 04:33 PM
I talked to TNT Customs today about all my stuff lining up all wrong. I got the belly pan on after making the notched with my Dremel. Then I was trying to line up the transfer case skid and same crap!
The fella told me about how the later in the year 99' XJ's are funky like this. And that their kit if ordered correctly will address this. I remember something along these lines when ordering new rotors. Something about the depth of the hat or something. I think mine is a later in the year 99'. I can't remember everything!
I just want this dang thing on already! I'm anxious already!

bluedragon436
09-11-2012, 06:04 AM
I have heard something about the later year 99's being somewhat different.. Kind of funny to me.. I can't wait for you to have it installed either.. Can't wait to see pics of the installed product and some flexin' shots!!

07Negative
09-11-2012, 10:05 PM
My Jeep was manufactured in November of 1998. So I'm not in that late funkiness. I'm kinda confused. Had I not been installing this on a Sunday originally and had I not been so impatient. I would have just called them and asked for a new belly pan.
But now i have to wait for a new transfer case skid b/c now that wont line up and it's even more off than the belly pan. Just kind of a bummer when something is this bloody expensive and I keep running into snags.
Today I got one hole drilled through the unibody. It's a time consuming task. Got 3 more to go for the belly pan and 2 more for the t case skid for when the new one comes in.
I really hope the steering goes smoother than this. Im in need of a DD car. I just can't seem to pony up the coin for a 65 Chevelle.

07Negative
09-12-2012, 10:46 AM
I was to have far more done by yesterday. But with shooting back emails with Rod at TNT and taking my aunt to the doctor b/c she doesn't take care of herself. I got very little done. I did drill a hole through the unibody. Kinda freaked me out. My second round of issues is the t case skid not lining up as well.
I think from what I've come across thus far. I probably wouldn't recommend this long arm kit. For starters its a $1,000. You can save $300. Get a kit from FrankZ or Claytons and just far fewer head aches installing. The customer service has been good. But now my jeep is outa of commission for 2 weeks as I plug a hour in after work b/c it gets dark early now. I'm both disappointed and really annoyed.
here are some pictures
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0065-1.jpg

The notches I had to make to get the belly pan to shift more over on the drivers side.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0066-1.jpg

So this is the "L" bracket that is a support for the belly pan. There are holes that I'm drilling through the frame stiffenerz and unibody and a crush sleeve does in there. This is were some of my logic and nit picking details come into effect. Take notice of how this bracket is sitting. Notice how the surface of where the belly pan that bracket meets. I would have corrected these angles. If I knew I making a product and this is how it was coming out. It can't be that hard to correct that 5 degree angle where those 2 pieces meet.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0050.jpg

Starting to line up the lower control arms. Kind of important.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0062.jpg

DETOURS
09-12-2012, 11:16 AM
I don't usually comment on other manufacture's stuff....but if they said they had the proper pcs to address your issues, they should have sent it to you as soon as they were able or knew of the issue.

"The fella told me about how the later in the year 99' XJ's are funky like this. And that their kit if ordered correctly will address this."

"If the kit was ordered correctly"-? Did you use an online shopping cart? Just curious....

BlueXJ
09-12-2012, 11:32 AM
I have used TnTs stuff in the past and thought it was good quality. Maybe not up to todays standards but at the time very good quality. I have their frame stiffeners on my 90XJ and have had for several years.

07Negative
09-12-2012, 12:58 PM
I don't usually comment on other manufacture's stuff....but if they said they had the proper pcs to address your issues, they should have sent it to you as soon as they were able or knew of the issue.

"The fella told me about how the later in the year 99' XJ's are funky like this. And that their kit if ordered correctly will address this."

"If the kit was ordered correctly"-? Did you use an online shopping cart? Just curious....

No I order over the phone almost ALWAYS! And also why I ordered over the phone was that TNT was offering free frame stiffenerz with the long arm purchase. Well I had already owned the stiffenerz. So in lieu of the stiffenerz, I got the OTK track bar and bracket.
I've got a ton of their parts. Frame stiffenerz including the fronts. Track bar, LA, 4 bolt steering plate (it's kinda like the CRok plate) and axle truss. I also planned on doing their rear coil conversion as well. But now........ I might just stick to leafs.
I would certainly say the quality of the products seem rather on point. 3/16 steel. The joints are insane, however the welding is not complete on a few items. So you can see these holes between the welds. Personally I think the powder coating is fugly!

DETOURS
09-12-2012, 03:39 PM
Okay, thats all fine and dandy.

Point is, if they did'nt ask what year your ride was, it's not your issue to correct thier parts.

Powder coating is just a big 'cover-up'.....dosent work anywhere snow flys, salt or calcium applied to roads.

4.3LXJ
09-12-2012, 03:48 PM
Powder coating is just a big 'cover-up'.....dosent work anywhere snow flys, salt or calcium applied to roads.

I did't know that Mark. Good info to know

07Negative
09-12-2012, 03:50 PM
I'm in Cali. only thing on the road here are dumb asses.

4.3LXJ
09-12-2012, 03:56 PM
Lotsa salt on I80. My son is having issues with stuff that is powder coated. Now I know why

07Negative
09-12-2012, 05:12 PM
I didn't know they put salt on I80.

Brasscatz
09-12-2012, 07:09 PM
My transfer case skid doesn't line up either... I had taken it up to a shop quite a while back to have them re-seal my transfer case and they had the same problem. The realized that when they removed the skid, the Jeep was in the air on the lift (the kind that lifts from the frame or in this case unibody) and figured out that if they put it back in the air the skid lined back up.

Now, I've removed the skid when I was under there checking stuff out and the skid won't line up again. I was just going to have Matt and Jim look at it when I go up to Matt's shop again. I only have 2 small jack stands or I'd try suspending it by the unibody to see if that would work.

07Negative
09-12-2012, 07:18 PM
Are you talking about the OEM cross member?

07Negative
09-12-2012, 09:29 PM
I came home to my latest order from Claytons to help correct some steering issues. It's probably only a temporary band-aid. But in the mean time it'll help.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0071-1.jpg

And it will be attached to this:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0072-2.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0073.jpg

And to sum it all up would be this:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_0077.jpg

4.3LXJ
09-12-2012, 09:35 PM
Don't forget to adjust that steering box. They don't come pre adjusted

07Negative
09-12-2012, 09:50 PM
I know. I have no clue how to do it. I was either going to pay someone or try and figure it out. If you have words of wisdom, as I know you do b/c you never fail. Please throw it up. I know it'll come in handy for many of use at some point.
Thank you Steve!

Brasscatz
09-12-2012, 10:00 PM
Are you talking about the OEM cross member?

Indeed sir, no modifications. I thought maybe it could help in your case too even though it's not exactly the same circumstances.

07Negative
09-12-2012, 11:11 PM
Here is a OEM cross member/skid.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_7915.jpg

There are a series of predrilled holes for the transmission mount threads to fall through. And they did that b/c different years of 97-mid 99' then late 99' to 01 mount slightly differently. On mine you can turn the transmission mount one way and it will fall in the cross member holes fine. Still off a touch on the unibody. But turn the transmission mount 180 degrees and the threads are offset to the passenger side. Again, will fall into the other set of holes on the cross member fine. So weird.
When ever I've taken off my cross member. I've always had to use a bottle jack against the lower control arms to apply pressure back for the unibody holes to line up properly. But I know what your talking about. I do think over all there are some corks about the unibody.
In my case, TNT sent the wrong bloody thing. Again a quality control issue. I'm not the only one to ever experience it. There's no question that they (TNT) make good quality stuff. I'm just annoyed and frustrated that it happened to me. As if it weren't bad enough that not a single damn thing has gone smoothly with this particular XJ. I've had 3 (this is my 3rd). I've done a lot of work to this XJ and it really makes me want another vehicle some times.

DETOURS
09-13-2012, 06:35 AM
Can't go wrong with Clayton.

Once powder coating is scratched, compromised or even if it's not applied heavy enough, moisture get under it and simply BLOOMS rust, it's unstopable until sandblasted clean & readdressed with good primer & paint. Most vendors do a chemical wash at best on these large parts prior to coating, but this dosent address mill scale or welding slag.....some vendors don't even prep with a chemical wash, powder coat will cover most anything, even rust...but it will not last. The best prep for powder coat is a fully sandblasted surface so the powder coat can bite into the surface. Ford made the dreadfull mistake of powder coating suspension parts on their trucks, they totally rust and fail. (in areas of salt & calcium)

07Negative
09-13-2012, 01:28 PM
I really enjoy ordering stuff from Clayton's. Such a pleasant fella who owns the business. I've got their leaf pack that replaced a set of Rusty's leaf packs. I like the Clayton's more. I have 4.5" Rusty's coils in the front. They are not too shabby. But I'm still going to replace them with Clayton coils. They have a 165lbs rate. And I'll be throwing on a pair of the ACOS to achieve a total of 6" of lift.
I do have to say that TNT has been a great business to do business with as well. I like their stuff so far. Just this dang belly pan thing is what kills me.
Speaking of which. I've been talking with Rod at TNT. He says even though my XJ has a Nov. 1998 date of manufacturing. It has the transmission mounting of a 00'-01' year. So it's of no ones fault that I'm experiencing the hang ups I'm having. Live and learn. New T-case skid is in the brown truck.

Jeephead98
09-13-2012, 10:15 PM
Going through your build thread is like dejavu! I just finished doing a new build on a black 1998 4dr as well, that I paid 1k for. I am a BIG fan of TNT. I have installed 3 of their Y-link kits so far. All 1st generation(1 piece). This new XJ I am building also got the frame stiffener treatment. Definitely a must if you plan on wheeling it hard. Be careful with the yoke on the front axle with the TNT control arms. The high pinion D30 yoke hits the control arm at full down flex right where the upper connects to the lower arm. We broke several u-joints and straps and 1 yoke while wheeling. So you may have to adjust the pinion pich to avoid this problem.
The '98 I just finished has full widths under it. HD44 front/D60 rear. Custom 4-link out back.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product once you are done to see how similar they will look!

07Negative
09-13-2012, 11:30 PM
Finish? What's that? Thanks for reading. I'm not going over board with this XJ. Maybe a cage, tube fenders, and if the motor goes. I'm thinking a 5.3L swap. But I think I'll stop at that. I'll have to find a way to fund these axles. I barely paid the mortgage this month and I'm outa stuff to sale. No one wants my sperm and blood doesn't pay what it use to.
I'll keep an eye on that front yoke. I'm thinking a Rubicon T case will be in play later on. It sits about an inch and some change lower than the 231. I wonder if that would avoid that? If the price of em doesn't come down, then an Atlas would be more logical. But I'll worry about it later.

07Negative
09-14-2012, 02:21 PM
picked up a pneumatic drill this morning before work so I can finish these holes in the unibody. Sadly, it's not a right angle but yet the straight type. The place I buy tools at wanted way too much for the right angle drill. And finding this stuff used has not prevailed.
Edit: This damn pneumatic drill wont work either!!!!! Blasted! It must be a right angle drill b/c the drive shaft gets in the way and they you just run out of room to get a straight hole! Blah! Anyone want to buy a nice straight pneumatic drill? It's this one: http://www.toolorbit.com/Jet/Jet-JSM-842.html

07Negative
09-16-2012, 01:33 PM
Places I really dislike: Walmart, Target, Safeway, Costco, Harbor Freight, jail.
I ended up at Harbor Freight to get a right angle pneumatic drill. It's such a POS. But for $38.08, I can't complain b/c it cut through the uni body somewhat with no problem. Even though the JET saw I got wont quite do what I need it to do right now. It's a champ! The HF POS gets stuck midway through drilling. :bang: I think I'm going to keep the JET for later on purposes unless someone actually gives me the coin for it so I can buy their right angle drill.
I've been learning from all this frustration. My most recent learned knowledge would be, have the right damn tool for the job! In the words of Red Foreman, "Dumb ass!" Insert sound bite Red Forman Dumbass - YouTube

07Negative
09-21-2012, 12:29 PM
I made some progress, but had to throw everything together until Saturday so I can drive it. Belly pan is installed though. Makes a huge difference on its own. My mechanical fan it hitting the shroud. But I've been wanting to replace it with the DirtBound triple fan setup.

XJ Wheeler
09-21-2012, 03:00 PM
Hey, Deejay. How do you like those tnt stiffeners? Mine are sitting in the living room floor, just wondering if you saw/felt much difference.

07Negative
09-21-2012, 03:32 PM
I found a huge noticeable difference. Well worth the effort. I can't weld for crap, so my welds look like doodoo! Keep the temp low. I found it hard to meet the 2 thicknesses together. But I'm also a doh doh.
I have their fronts as well, but not yet installed. I'm plating the entire unibody at some point. I'm really thrown back by how thin the unibody it. It's only 3.5mm thick.
I would never put long arms and all this stuff on a XJ without the plating.
I have the TNT LA kit. Even with just the belly pan there is a huge difference.
The next project is to do 2x6 squared rock sliders. And the way I'll go about doing those should tighten things up as well.
My concern would be that if one were to only do that middle section of stiffeners that it'll just send that much more stress else wear that is not plated. So that's why I'm plating the entire thing.

07Negative
09-21-2012, 03:40 PM
And if it's of any help to ya for when you do go to weld them in. I had areas of the unibody where the gaps were just too dang big to fill in. So I didn't weld all the way around them. I think roset would be a good ideal. Something I didn't do.

XJ Wheeler
09-21-2012, 04:24 PM
All good points and i agree, seems as though if you plate just one area it'll just send the stress elsewhere. So full plating is on the list (way down there).

These are just a means to other things for me really. My rockers are trashed by rust so i plan on doing the tubing rockers as well, the stiffeners are to be the base for those.

My plan for the rosette welds are about 1" holes every 8" along the sides. What's your opinion on running them along the bottom? I just wonder if they would get hung up and ripped up on rocks.

Most likely i won't be doing most of the welding. Still a noob to welding, wouldn't trust them on a high stress application yet. Was thinking to bolt them up and put a few tacks, then take it to have someone who's more "qualified" to finish it off.

07Negative
09-22-2012, 02:15 AM
I suck at welding as you do at sewing. I still did it, so what? I didn't do rosettes b/c.....well I was probably too lazy to drill the holes and wasn't thinking like a fabricator or someone that knew what the hell he was doing. The point is. look like what your doing if your doing what your suppose to be doing. Get it done.

07Negative
11-10-2013, 05:09 PM
I haven't posted in here for a while. I've since sold my house, got arrested, was homeless living out of my jeep for 3 months and now I'm back at it. This time I'm working on doing the WJ knuckle swap so I can once and for all correct my steering issues. I'm going up in lift by about 1.5". Still on the fence about how to go about the rear. Option 1) IRO boomerang shackle or 2) shackle relocating bracket and shackle. The front is a set of Clayton 4.5" coils paired with ACOS.
I put in some Bilstein 5100's and I like them more than the fox that I had.
From what I've gathered. This is my parts list

2- WJ knuckles
2- Caliper mount brackets for AKEBONO style caliper
2- JKS hub spacers
2 Calipers akebono
2 2001 XJ Timkin Unit Hubs
2 WJ lower balljoints
2 Rotors on 5x4.5
4 Pads
Weld on JKS OAB

I'm thinking I'll end up doing heims in lieu of TRE. I'll also need materials for drag link & tie rod. I have a TNT OTK track bar, but I'm thinking of ditching it for making my own. Getting the materials from RuffStuff. I've seen quite a few track bars that are straight instead of having that bend in it. I don't see the need for a bend.
I have that TNT truss I want to install. But that I'm going to leave up to someone with way more experience than myself.
So far I'm just collecting parts for the knuckle swap. $260 got me the knuckles & calipers. Next will be hubs. I'd love to do lock out hubs. But I can't afford them. It'd be nice too b/c I could do 5x5.5 bolt pattern and not have to re-drill holes in the rotors. I want to get the most expensive parts out of the way 1st. I can't let my g/f know how expensive this.

07Negative
11-25-2013, 09:24 PM
Received IRO 1.5" boomerang shackles today. Should have my new Clayton's coils tomorrow. Wish I could just copy images over from my phone.

07Negative
12-04-2013, 04:00 PM
Changed my mind yet again. Yesterday I picked up the Reid Dana44 knuckles to do the Dana30/44 hybrid build. Got the Clayton 4.5" coils, & IRO boomerang shackles. Now if I can get this person to pay me back the $1200 they own me. I'll have the RCV axle shafts.

NW99XJ
12-04-2013, 04:14 PM
oh RCV's are awesome!
Man your front end is gonna be bullet proof!

07Negative
12-04-2013, 08:03 PM
oh RCV's are awesome!
Man your front end is gonna be bullet proof!

That's the idear. It'll also receive a TNT truss which I already have. 4.56 ring & pinion with new spider gears. Which all will be cryro treated. A Detroit locker and manual lock out hubs. High steer arms to be determined. Make my own tie rod, drag link, and track bar with Heims from Ruff Stuff. It should be plenty good for 35's. If I break it. I'll move onto a Dana60. But I doubt I will. People have done alot with far less.

4.3LXJ
12-04-2013, 08:30 PM
That is going to be a fun project Deejay

07Negative
12-04-2013, 10:41 PM
So far buying stuff is a blast. Sadly, I'm now broke again. I've got about $2k in lent out money floating around. So hopefully it starts to trickle in shortly. I'd like to have it done before KOH. I'm filming it this year.
I'm having a hard time sourcing a few items bc we don't have much for junk yards in these parts. I need chevy spindles, hubs, and lockouts. I'd rather not buy them new bc they're so damn expensive. I'll buy new rotors & calipers.

4.3LXJ
12-04-2013, 11:19 PM
They show up in the pick and pull here

07Negative
12-05-2013, 12:02 AM
Not sure how often u go. But if you stumble upon any. Let a fella know. Still got my number? I can wire you money

4.3LXJ
12-05-2013, 10:19 AM
I don't go that often, but we can work it out. How soon do you need this stuff? The trick is getting there first before people start stripping the axles

07Negative
12-05-2013, 01:47 PM
It's kind of whenever. I'm still waiting on the money for the RCV's. that's the biggest expense of the project. I'm going to check w J&W as well bc apparently I can use parts from a full size jeep. The only reason why I haven't done that yet is bc I feel bad taking parts from a full size when it should be rebuilt and driven. Love those damn things.

4.3LXJ
12-05-2013, 02:12 PM
OK, let me know. The thing is that all those D44 spindles will fit. You just need to match hubs. Bolt pattern may be a consideration. As far as rebuilding the oldies goes, once it hits the pick and pull, it gets beyond that. But in defense of a local yard, they do get classics in that would have a long way to restoration and allow them to be parted out and help other restorations out at a fraction of the cost of other sources

07Negative
12-11-2013, 04:19 PM
It's not until you've order all the "little" things that you come to realize, "Damn this is expensive!" Ball joints $200, heims & DOM $375, ring & pinion $200, misc brackets $100. I don't even have a locker yet. To think, that's the cheap part.

4.3LXJ
12-11-2013, 04:25 PM
Just like any conversion, it is the little stuff that adds up

07Negative
12-11-2013, 04:53 PM
It truly is. I was going to drop this axle in without a locker. But I'm thinking ill just use a credit card for how much I hate to. It'll save me from spending twice in the long run.
At least the rear end will be cheap in comparison.

4.3LXJ
12-11-2013, 04:54 PM
And twice the work too. It is harder to set gears up that have been used than new

07Negative
12-11-2013, 05:00 PM
I'm not reusing gears. That's the other thing. Spider gears are $100. That doesn't include cryo treatment either.
If male prostitution was in high demand. I might consider whoring myself out.

NW99XJ
12-12-2013, 11:26 AM
If male prostitution was in high demand. I might consider whoring myself out.
...The same thought has crossed my mind more times than it should.

4.3LXJ
12-12-2013, 01:36 PM
...The same thought has crossed my mind more times than it should.

You could wear a T shirt that says "Will **** for Jeep parts" :smiley-taunt002:

Carves
12-12-2013, 05:27 PM
............. At least the rear end will be cheap in comparison.


............. If male prostitution was in high demand. I might consider whoring myself out.



:rolleye0012: ...... :D:D

Brasscatz
12-12-2013, 06:02 PM
You could wear a T shirt that says "Will **** for Jeep parts" :smiley-taunt002:

Or buy a kiwi sheep farm...

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 because my microwave couldn't do it

07Negative
01-02-2014, 04:29 PM
Just got back from Ruff Stuff up in Loomis, Ca. What a cool fricking place! I had to refran from dry humping a axle housing. So damn sexy. The staff is beyond cool & helpful. Gotta cash discount.
Picked up diff cover, 7/8" heim steering w DOM, high steer arms, & hardware. I just need ring & pinion (plus cryro treatment) & the RCV shafts. Oh and 2 new rims for the 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
After seeing their axle housing. I'm kinda recreating not building one of those. There's definitely a cool factor. But then again the expense would be outrageous. $1500 for a Strange 3rd member alone.
I don't see why anyone would buy from Currie or Dynatrac when you can build a killer one from Ruff Stuff.

Edit: JKS ACOS finally showed up! Sweet!

4.3LXJ
01-02-2014, 07:28 PM
Glad to hear of the cash discount. Gonna pay them a visit too

07Negative
01-02-2014, 09:17 PM
What are you getting Steve? Or rather, what build plans you doing? It's gotta be good.

4.3LXJ
01-02-2014, 09:43 PM
They also have front spindle adapters for the Toyota 8.25. I have one already. Spindles for the rear, full floating axles from Bobby Longfield and disc brakes. 5.29s and ARBs both ends

07Negative
01-02-2014, 10:20 PM
You finally getting those axles together? Good choice on the Longfields. What the heck size tires you gonna be running?

jimmixj
01-03-2014, 06:46 AM
DeeJay,
Where did you get the D30 truss that you show on page 2 of this thread? Please, I must know!

07Negative
01-03-2014, 07:31 AM
It's a TNT Customs truss. It's lacking a few brackets to be "complete." But it has the essentials.
http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_dana_30_axle/axle_truss.aspx

There's also this one by IRO
It's cheaper with all the mounts needed.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SD30TS&Category_Code=PFX

4.3LXJ
01-03-2014, 10:13 AM
You finally getting those axles together? Good choice on the Longfields. What the heck size tires you gonna be running?

37X12.50X16.5 Goodyear Wranglers from Hundred Dollar Man

07Negative
01-03-2014, 05:25 PM
Dang! Perhaps I need to give them a look over. 5 35's were going to force me to sell an organ.

4.3LXJ
01-03-2014, 06:42 PM
The trick is getting wheels. 5 on 4.5 in the 16.5 are almost impossible to find. You would have to make the wheels up. But I will be running 6 on 5.5 and those are available on Ebay cheap. Throw in some internal bead locks and good to go anywhere at about $400 a corner or less

07Negative
01-04-2014, 02:29 PM
Sounds like a deal. I'm not sure about doing a 16.5" rim since not too much is available tire wise. I'd probably buy 3 full sets of tires if I were to go that route. I'll have a 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
I do have a question though. At what point would one want to consider going with bead lock rims? Or what determines/merits the use of bead locks? I usually see them with folks running 37" tires or larger. Not sure If I've seen someone with 35" tires rolling around with bead lock rims. I was going to consider them simply b/c you can air down lower without loosing a tire off the bead. But them again, is 12psi vs 6 or 7 psi really worth the extra hassle & expense?

4.3LXJ
01-04-2014, 04:38 PM
As far as I am concerned, bead locks are a must on any 16.5" off road tire. They have a tapered bead that can be knocked off easily at off road pressures. That is why the military uses a double bead lock for them. You can get the Hummer rims and have new centers put in. but I will go with the Stauns, cheaper and lighter and will hold the beads just fine

07Negative
01-04-2014, 05:11 PM
So is it not so much of a tire size issue regarding having bead locks? More so the structure or how the rim is actually made.

4.3LXJ
01-04-2014, 09:50 PM
In this case yes. But my opinion is that the taller the sidewall the more chance that can happen. Also some tires will let go in the inside bead, such as with swampers due to the bead construction. So there are a number of factors. Never lost a BFG bead, but I did loose the inside bead on the uphill side on the swampers

07Negative
01-05-2014, 02:23 PM
That makes sense. My KMII's are ready to be replaced after 50,000 miles of use. I still have tread, but they are cupping & I have 5 nails in 1 tire. I've been kicking around the ideal of DD on 33" duratracs and having a set of either 35" KMII's or Krawlers on bead locks sitting in the garage for outings. It adds to the cost of things. But it might work out well.

4.3LXJ
01-05-2014, 03:37 PM
I used two sets of tires for a long time. These 37s will be the street tire since they are cheap. Eventually I would have something else for trail use

07Negative
01-05-2014, 09:16 PM
37's as DD. That's funny yet awesome. But damn. I can't blame ya.

4.3LXJ
01-05-2014, 09:40 PM
37 is a nice round number :D

07Negative
01-26-2014, 03:19 PM
I'm still on the fence about which gears to go with. I was tossing around the possible ambition of a 5.3L swap when the time comes. A friend had stated that 4.56's would be a little high. At some point. I'd like an Atlas 4 speed t-case. Gear selection would be nice from an atlas.
On the other hand I'm a little Leary of 4.88's in a Dana30. Even though they'll be cryro treated. Thus ultimately being my weakest link on this over built Dana30. I'm keeping the 8.25 for now. I've got a Dana44 in the garage. But it's going to cost me about $2000 to build it the way I want. So I'm also thinking of the resale of the 8.25 axle with 4.88's. I'm not even sure how much I could get back from a built 8.25, with has alloy shafts, geared, Detroit locker, TNT truss, and possibly disc brakes. I'm about $1200 into the axle. I could see someone with 33's that wheels recklessly picking it up. But nor do I want to sell it for $400 if that's the reality of it.

4.3LXJ
01-26-2014, 04:41 PM
That is the trouble with used parts. They aren't worth much. Even a 3K Atlas is only worth half used. Personally, unless you start getting some air time don't worry about the 30 gears. You already cryo treated them and that adds 40% to the strength

07Negative
01-26-2014, 04:52 PM
Yeah. I think I've known the correct answer all along. 4.88's it is. Now if I can score a used Atlas! That would bananas awesome!

4.3LXJ
01-26-2014, 05:03 PM
They come up on Pirate once in awhile. But remember one thing, they come in a variety of ratios. Mine has the 10:1 gearing which is recommended for auto trannies. Some of hem only go to 5.4

07Negative
01-26-2014, 05:44 PM
I recently read that. I'm quite unfamiliar. So I wanted to get familiar with it. I'm thinking I really don't need 325hp in a XJ. I could get a ton of torque with the correct gearing though. I'd be pretty damn happy to be close to 75.1 crawl ratio.
I just found a NP241 from a Rubicon for $500. Which is a screaming deal.

4.3LXJ
01-26-2014, 06:58 PM
4:1 is much better. It is one of my ratios. But I gotta tell ya, that 10:1 lets you idle through some pretty big rocks. And the bonus is that the secret to my D35 staying in one piece while locked is that nice slow steady idle through the big stuff

07Negative
01-26-2014, 07:51 PM
I'm sure I've got more reading to do. But why would think/say the 4:1 is better? I would suspect having the options of numerous gears would allow for better choices in terrain?

4.3LXJ
01-26-2014, 08:55 PM
What I meant was, the 4:1 of the 241OR is much better for our terrain than the 2.7 in the 231. But the choice of all the gears is great depending on the terrain. The 4 sp does it all

07Negative
01-27-2014, 12:58 AM
Is there a way we can create a tread on this topic? I dislike how folks will trash talk an axle for a lack of its merits b/c of such axle isn't manly enough. But cats like yourself with a Dana35 are making stuff happen, b/c of your know how.
I myself, don't have the experience yet. But I want to contribute to the disbelief of bigger & better non sense. Maybe we can explain why a 2.7:1 or 4:1 or 10:1 is the right choice for our application.
If I could ask. Throw up some links to some URL's that allow me and us to learn about the importance of t-case selection and or it's gear ratios. I really hope this becomes a group discussion.

4.3LXJ
01-27-2014, 10:45 AM
I did address this in a pod cast, but that is ancient history now. Let me think about this a little

07Negative
03-03-2014, 06:36 PM
So I should be able to afford the RCV shafts this week, new ball joints, and one tire. You read that right. One tire. So I'll have to buy one tire each week as I can afford to do so. Then at some point I'll 5 total. I'm sticking to the BFG KM2's. I'm really impressed with the tire. And at the price. I can't quite afford to experiment with anything else. Only to be disappointed. I'd love a set of 33" Duratrac for daily driving. But 35 KMs otta work.
I'm going to go with the Alloy USA joints instead of the Synergy. No particular reason other than to support a fellow Jeepers web site. If I can name drop it. It's Seriousoffroadproducts.com. I dislike the 4Wheel Parts store near me. So funk em.
Then I've got a few brackets left to get. Finger out the track bar situation. Which I'm thinking I'll just have to keep the jeep down a few days to figure it out. Drink a few beers. Figure it out some more. Drink a few more beers and at that point, all I'll be able to do is stair at. King of the Hill style.
Oh and new rims. Going to 5X5.5 bolt pattern.
Then I think I'll road trip it back home (Iowa).

bluedragon436
03-03-2014, 06:51 PM
Sounds like a good plan Deejay!! I would have to say that Serious Offroad (http://seriousoffroadproducts.com/) does have some pretty awesome products, prices and customer service... even if it is just to ask him some questions about his products prior to buying them... Nothing wrong with buying a tire at a time as you can afford... maintaining a budget and being able to live everyday until the build is "complete" is just as important as having it completed all at once!!!

07Negative
03-03-2014, 06:57 PM
I need to get photo's up. Otherwise the saying goes if I'm not mistaken, "No pictures it didn't happen." My only gripe is I think we can only use Photobucket. Which no one uses any more, but for forums. So I forget my password all the time.

4.3LXJ
03-03-2014, 07:14 PM
It is all about money. Working on all the stuff here too before I take the next steps

Rocco83
03-04-2014, 06:57 PM
I need to get photo's up. Otherwise the saying goes if I'm not mistaken, "No pictures it didn't happen." My only gripe is I think we can only use Photobucket. Which no one uses any more, but for forums. So I forget my password all the time.


Just use tinypic.com. They give you an option for forum code. Best option to me as you don't need an account or anything unnecessary.

07Negative
03-11-2014, 06:11 PM
It's official. I placed my order with Frank for the RCV shafts today along with ball joints. I put a $400 deposit on a 5 piece set of BFG KMII's. I'm stoked! I've got a JY run to do for some misc things and a Detriot locker and its go time.
I'll throw pix up one I've got all off it together. Think ill swim in the parts like Duck Tails cartoon did w money.

4.3LXJ
03-11-2014, 06:23 PM
Haha, sounds really nice Deejay

07Negative
03-19-2014, 03:14 PM
Ordered a Detroit locker for the front end and alloy shafts for the 8.25 today. Man does money go fast. Gotta call that my tires are in, but I'm lacking $900 for the remaining balance. I still need a master install kit and 4.88 R&P for the 8.25.
I committed to the Memorial Day trip up in Reno with the NAXJA crew. I hope to have this junk done!

I'm reading up on the disk brake conversion for the 8.25. Alot of the posts are dated. I was wondering if there is anything new in the way of options for doing this? I've read GC ZJ and something about the LJ rear brakes. I'm familiar with the Teraflex kits.

One of my objectives is to change the bolt pattern to 5x5.5 since that is what my front will switched to as well. I've been trying to find this online. But have turned up nothing that really hits my point of interest. I'm also looking into the option of the double E Brake. I thought I found something on here about it, but me and the search option on forums don't communicate well with each other.

4.3LXJ
03-19-2014, 05:02 PM
If you are going to run lockers, why the dual brake Deejay?

07Negative
03-19-2014, 05:07 PM
For the future ideal of putting in the Dana 44 which will have a selectable. It was just an idear I briefly read on. And as usual. Making more work for myself as always.

4.3LXJ
03-19-2014, 05:11 PM
My take on the dual brake is that it is not that much use in an XJ with more weight in the front than back. It can be of some use however in higher speed situations, say 20 - 40 mph in sand or mud. But we don't have that type of wheeling around here unless you go to Pismo or Sand Mountain. Save your coin for the install kits

bluedragon436
03-19-2014, 05:25 PM
Ordered a Detroit locker for the front end and alloy shafts for the 8.25 today. Man does money go fast. Gotta call that my tires are in, but I'm lacking $900 for the remaining balance. I still need a master install kit and 4.88 R&P for the 8.25.
I committed to the Memorial Day trip up in Reno with the NAXJA crew. I hope to have this junk done!

I'm reading up on the disk brake conversion for the 8.25. Alot of the posts are dated. I was wondering if there is anything new in the way of options for doing this? I've read GC ZJ and something about the LJ rear brakes. I'm familiar with the Teraflex kits.

One of my objectives is to change the bolt pattern to 5x5.5 since that is what my front will switched to as well. I've been trying to find this online. But have turned up nothing that really hits my point of interest. I'm also looking into the option of the double E Brake. I thought I found something on here about it, but me and the search option on forums don't communicate well with each other.

There are many options as far as the 8.25 conversions.. You can do the ZJ rear brake setup, which is almost a "bolt on" upgrade with very minor extra effort. One I was looking at was one through Iron Rock Offroad (http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=CA-D35DISC&Category_Code=PFX)

07Negative
03-19-2014, 05:27 PM
No doubt! I'll just do the rear disk conversion.

07Negative
03-19-2014, 05:31 PM
Seems to be similar to the TeraFlex. I've read how alotta folks are achieving this conversion for about $200 cheaper than the kits though. And I'm getting wicked strapped for cash. I'm going to have to start whoring myself out on Craigslist here shortly or sell body organs (totally kidding BTW).

Rocco83
03-27-2014, 02:50 PM
Seems to be similar to the TeraFlex. I've read how alotta folks are achieving this conversion for about $200 cheaper than the kits though. And I'm getting wicked strapped for cash. I'm going to have to start whoring myself out on Craigslist here shortly or sell body organs (totally kidding BTW).


Don't underestimate the amount of cash you could pull in from whoring on Craigslist. You are better off trying backpage. Always remember to ask them if they are a cop first. You don't want to lose what money you have for bail on a solicitation charge :P

07Negative
04-02-2014, 01:28 PM
Alloy shafts came in for the rear. Looks like the RCV's & ball joints come today. Just waiting on the Brown Santa to show up

07Negative
04-03-2014, 10:54 PM
Picture time!

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-1.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-1.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-3.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-3.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-4.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-4.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-5.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-5.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-7.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-7.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg.html)

07Negative
04-03-2014, 11:10 PM
The locker is on back order until next week. I'll throw up a pick of that once I get it the knuckles outward parts are at my buddies garage. I'll be going there tomorrow night for "Garage Night." The ring & pinion for F&R are also there. I've got $736 left to pay off on new tires. Still not sure what I'm doing for new wheels. It's 1 or 3 options. Cheapo Crsgers. Slightly more Mickie's. or just throw down and get some made in the US of A bead locks.

07Negative
04-03-2014, 11:15 PM
Just in case you haven't read from page 1. This is also going on

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-9.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-9.jpg.html)

XJ Wheeler
04-04-2014, 01:51 AM
Its Christmas in April!!!

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

bluedragon436
04-04-2014, 02:38 AM
Those are some nice parts you got collecting..... Can't wait to start collecting parts for my build, and hopefully I can get some nice units like the ones you got going on here...

07Negative
04-04-2014, 03:33 AM
I'll let you know if it's worth while to actually build up a dana30 like this.

bluedragon436
04-04-2014, 05:19 AM
Yeah I wish I could afford the full rebuild/upgrade like you are doing.. Maybe I can slowly over time, once I clean up and make sure it is a useable axle.. I wish I knew how to weld and such, that would def help with upgrades especially with the truss like you have there..

Rocco83
04-04-2014, 05:53 AM
Yeah I wish I could afford the full rebuild/upgrade like you are doing.. Maybe I can slowly over time, once I clean up and make sure it is a useable axle.. I wish I knew how to weld and such, that would def help with upgrades especially with the truss like you have there..


Not trying to take anything away from the guys who are really good at it, but welding really isn't terribly hard. It is one of those things people shy away from if they've never done it. Once you do it you can probably catch on quickly if you have a good teacher. The guys where I work now all have been doing it for 25+ years each and let me do the welding any time something needs done. Like everything else it is something you just need to pick one up and start practicing.

07Negative
04-04-2014, 07:04 AM
Very true. Pick up a buzz box cheap on Craigslist. Goof around with it until you get the hang of it. Then pick up a MIG welder. MIG welding is wick easy. Taking a class at a local JC is a great idea too.

4.3LXJ
04-04-2014, 10:35 AM
Nice stuff Deejay. First class all the way

07Negative
04-04-2014, 10:49 AM
I got the ball joints yesterday as well. I'm really curious as to how these pan out. I read alot of 500 mile break in period and its white knuckles all 500 miles.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-10.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-10.jpg.html)

4.3LXJ
04-04-2014, 10:52 AM
That would be really tight

07Negative
04-04-2014, 10:56 AM
It's only what I've read. But I read about 50 of the same thing. We shall see.

4.3LXJ
04-04-2014, 11:00 AM
It seem a little far fetched to me. If you have everything tight and strong I can't see why that would happen. I think you have upgraded your pump anyway haven't you so you have another 50% more pressure and force in the steering box?

07Negative
04-04-2014, 11:08 AM
Ya, I've got the AGR gear box & pump. However it's not installed yet. It's all going on with the axle. I've got stiffiners for the front as well, that'll go on while I'm at it. The gear box has 4 bolt holes. So I also picked up: http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_Cherokee_XJ/4_bolt_steering_conversion.aspx

4.3LXJ
04-04-2014, 11:10 AM
I can't see where you would really have a problem then. The only thing I can think of is a lubrication problem. They stamp the outer part when making them so it forms around the ball. Perhaps you should cycle the steering with the weight off a few times to spread the lube around inside

07Negative
04-04-2014, 11:18 AM
I'll do that for sure. I'm still wondering if hydro assist would be excessive. It's a more added expense. But if its worth the while. I might as well throw it on now.

4.3LXJ
04-04-2014, 11:25 AM
I don't know about excessive. What yo have now is adequate for 35s in most all situations. However I think the main advantage of that for an XJ is extra force taken away from the frame. I have that box and love it. But it can still be overwhelmed if going down a steep hill with the front locker and brakes on. Not bad, but noticeable

07Negative
04-04-2014, 03:00 PM
And this is where all the swearing, drinking, bullshit talk will take place
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-11.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-11.jpg.html)

4.3LXJ
04-04-2014, 03:24 PM
A hoist. I am jealous. What a great time saver

07Negative
04-04-2014, 03:57 PM
There are 3 of them in this shop (Not miine). But I came to learn these hoist are only 3-5 grand. Once I get a garage that can contain one. I'm getting one! My buddy paid just over $5K for this one installed.

Rocco83
04-04-2014, 04:04 PM
Place about 40 miles from me sells 12 footers for $1800. Almost too cheap to not have one.

07Negative
04-04-2014, 04:20 PM
You forget we are in CA. Where everything is about 3 times the inflated price it should be. Great price though. If you gotta garage for one. I'd have one damn fast.

Rocco83
04-04-2014, 04:40 PM
I could probably do some modifying to get one. Garage is only 10 feet in the good part :( what happened to getting the hell out of Cali??

07Negative
04-04-2014, 05:31 PM
Working on it. Its the woman that's not so keen on leaving. She's from here, I'm not. She also makes a stupid amount of money as a nurse. I think it freaks her out to not have a city near by. Good restaurants. Consumerism shit. Stuff I couldn't care less about. I'm more of a loner, don't like government, dislike authority, like open space, Like dogs over people. Not that I hate people.
She did send me a few links to places for sale around the Sacramento area with 5 acres or so. Which is only good for a homestead. No real money generator. But it would fill a void. But being close to Sac alone would drive me nuts. Not to mention the health effects it would have on my kid to live near there. Anyway.....

Rocco83
04-04-2014, 05:34 PM
Traveling nurses out in this area make $80-$125 an hour and only work 3 days a week. Might not be the same kind of dough she makes, but for the costs of living out here it is amazing.

07Negative
04-04-2014, 06:33 PM
Ya she makes $80hr. Its my sorry ass that doesn't make crap for money.

Rocco83
04-04-2014, 07:08 PM
Can't both be bread winners. Make too much money and you will have to step up to a 2014 Grand Cherokee. :p You're doing it right though! I always try to get the girls with good jobs and their own money. Means they will spend less of mine.

07Negative
04-04-2014, 07:24 PM
I really don't care about money. Rich people are unoriginal any way. It's just when the cost of living gets 95% of my money I get pissed. Prices here are high for no damn reason. Track home brick of shit for $500K. Some have HOA's. Then you have to pay some bs tax b/c of a new school near by. Oh but what about all that state lotto money? Can't take a dump without hearing your neighbor do the same. Oh and how dare your grass be 3mm too tall. Heres a nice fine. Can't park your car there without throwing money into a meter. a quarter gets you 3 freaking minutes. 9% sales tax. Everyone gets your money but you. Or in this case, me. Only reason I'm able to build this Jeep now, is b/c these knuckle heads are finally paying me back money they've owed me for over a year. Once this is done. It'll be a while before I can put gas into the damn thing. Everyone says, Well find a new job. What jobs? There is nothing but dishwasher jobs in these parts. Or computer jobs. But I'm not into computer. Let alone educated in the stuff. I suppose I could become a government employee. But I would hate myself for that. Oh well. I'll mooch off the woman for now. Now if I can just convince her a tube bender & dies & some DOM are really really needed. :)

Rocco83
04-04-2014, 07:32 PM
Haha. You would cry your damn eyes out if you could see what 500k would get you here. Huge ass farm house, some barns, 50 acres, and maybe a tractor and some implements if you play your cards right. We just purchased 120 acres with a nice farm house and barns to rent out for 700k in a tax sale.

07Negative
04-04-2014, 07:58 PM
$700K seems so bloody high. Then you hear all these dipshits moaning how expensive food is. But little do they know. Farm land costs ya a mill. And you haven't even grown anything. Plus that stupid farm bill. Just one big giant freaking welfare check. I should ask my grandparents what they paid for their 650 acre place.

Rocco83
04-04-2014, 08:10 PM
For the most part you can get the land for 6-10k per acre. The house and barns were most likely mil+ just for them. They were a little over a year old. Guy who built it tried to do too much too fast and sunk more money into it than he could afford. We got it for pennies on the dime from the govt.

Farming isn't a way to get rich unless you so one of the super farms for hogs or cattle, or have an established organic dairy. Organic dairy makes sooooo much money. You need an insane amount of start up money though. Just doing crops you're not going to make big bucks. We do work the land, but we are 1/3 in on a steer and chicken setup that is now paid off and starting to get into the money making phase. I keep my hands out of that and mainly work with the land portion. My hay business the last few years has been killing it.

07Negative
04-07-2014, 01:59 PM
It kinda feels like this
Salute to Tim "the toolman" taylor - YouTube

When you open this

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-43.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-43.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-44.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-44.jpg.html)

4.3LXJ
04-07-2014, 02:04 PM
Fun stuff Deejay

07Negative
04-07-2014, 02:35 PM
The real fun starts when the actual building starts and then wheeling it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

4.3LXJ
04-07-2014, 04:36 PM
Wheeling ……. fun? nah :D

07Negative
04-09-2014, 07:32 PM
I've gotta get new wheels for at the front axle for now. And that's b/c of the change of the bolt pattern. OEM is 5x4.5 and I'm going to 5x5.5. I was going to be a cheap ass and stick with the Cragers. But they bend easily.
So talking with Frank at SeriousOffRoad. He told me to check out the Mickey Thompsons. He said they are cheap in price, but not in quality, which seems to be hard to find. I really want a set of TrailReady wheels. But that's booko bucks.
I think the M.T wheels are unattractive. Not that I'm a pretty face to look at. Anyone got suggestions or some input?
My long term goal is to have 2 sets of tires. A set of name brand "X" tire in 33" on cheap wheels for DD. While having a Set of TrailReady beadlocks with 35" sitting in the garage for outings only. I'm not sure how long term this goal is. I suppose that depends on how long the motor/tranny last me. And I do want to start on getting some bumpers and start working on the interior & roll cage.

Rocco83
04-09-2014, 07:45 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/10/ny8u3yvu.jpg

Throw on some 28s. Everyone can use some Februaries. :p

Best bet might be just saving up to get the ones you want in the end. I've decided to stop buying "placeholder" parts. I lose money always wanting something now rather than saving and getting exactly what I want.

07Negative
04-09-2014, 07:48 PM
Dude. I know I live in Oakland. But I'm not a homie. No thanks. :)

Rocco83
04-09-2014, 07:49 PM
Might help you with some street cred!

07Negative
04-21-2014, 04:10 PM
The Alloy USA ball joints are made in Taiwan. Kinda sad. Especially for damn near $200 ball joints.

Rocco83
04-21-2014, 05:11 PM
That is devastating to find out. Anything with USA, or an image produced such as our flag should be made in the US.

Brasscatz
04-21-2014, 05:45 PM
It's kinda ironic.... most Americans aren't even made in America anymore.... :P

Rocco83
04-21-2014, 06:47 PM
Lol. At least up here we don't have much of that issue though. When I lived in Texas I realized that though.

07Negative
04-24-2014, 10:15 PM
Driveway wheelin!!!!

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-63.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-63.jpg.html)

4.3LXJ
04-24-2014, 10:36 PM
Now that is a pile of leaves

07Negative
04-25-2014, 06:21 AM
It's 10 cubic yards of poplar tree mulch, for doing sheet mulching. It's what I covered the backyard in. You lay down cardboard the a 4-6" layer of tree mulch. It'll prevent weeds & unwanted grass from growing. It's also good for soil building & conditioning clay soil. Takes about 3-5 years for it to become a beautiful humis.
We do however have some big leaf maples on the street. Great for composting.

07Negative
04-27-2014, 01:15 PM
Last night, I was in the garage. Trying to make room for a bakers rack. So I can grow micro greens in the garage. All these axle parts are taking up a copious amount of space. While putting my power tools in there place. A "Made in Taiwan" print caught my attention from the perfrial. Look to the left and smack dab on the Alloy USA box containing my rear axle shafts, is where it came from. I kinda threw a silent temper tantrum. So I forwarded an email to Alloy USA and suggested they change their company name. Because so far, not a damn thing is made in the USA. Or maybe to my naive self. No one is making shafts, gears, ball joints, heim joints, etc in the US.
At this rate. I should just be driving an Isuzu or Toyota.

Rocco83
04-27-2014, 05:42 PM
Any of the extra parts you are having a hard time finding a place to store you can send to me and I'll store them on my Jeep for you :)

Carves
04-27-2014, 06:46 PM
Stuff coming out of Taiwan has been good quality for years .....

.... but it is damned annoying to support "local" business ... and find out they are just importers.

07Negative
04-28-2014, 01:03 PM
Stuff coming out of Taiwan has been good quality for years .....

.... but it is damned annoying to support "local" business ... and find out they are just importers.

This is actually my point and motivation entirely! I really do try and go out of my way for supporting what I think is local and USA made. I went 14 months without a job a few years back. I sure did miss having a pay check.
So when I go out on a whiny bitch rant about this kinda stuff or Wal-Mart rants. It's b/c of this. Its a bit disappointing. But I'm totally aware that Taiwan, Japan, and even China, has put a ton into manufacturing and making the quality much better.
I'm also sure our open trade market and EPA stuff plays a huge role as well. Politics essentially. Oh well. I have yet to hear of a rational person break one of these things.

Rocco83
04-28-2014, 02:34 PM
Somewhere there is a Senator/Congressman eating on an importer's dime that passed legislation that made it more expensive, or impossible for a US company to make their goods. Most likely the reason it is imported now. I'm at least hoping places like Alloy USA started in the US and were forced overseas. Anymore when I go buy tires for my vehicles I only buy Mastercraft tires because they are made right down the road from me and I at least know I'm supporting a local US company. Doesn't hurt their tires are among the cheapest and best quality I've used.

07Negative
04-28-2014, 03:23 PM
Somewhere there is a Senator/Congressman eating on an importer's dime that passed legislation that made it more expensive, or impossible for a US company to make their goods. Most likely the reason it is imported now. I'm at least hoping places like Alloy USA started in the US and were forced overseas. Anymore when I go buy tires for my vehicles I only buy Mastercraft tires because they are made right down the road from me and I at least know I'm supporting a local US company. Doesn't hurt their tires are among the cheapest and best quality I've used.

Right on man! Didn't even know this.

07Negative
04-28-2014, 03:24 PM
Just ordered these for front and rear. Really good prices. Way cheaper than Alloy USA and the RCV seals. I talked to these guys a few minutes ago. Had me sold in less than 2 minutes. Really helpful and to the point kinda folks.

http://www.sealsit.com/axlehub.asp

07Negative
04-29-2014, 02:43 AM
Also ordered a front bumper finally!

http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/product.php?productid=17519&cat=251&page=1

Rocco83
04-29-2014, 05:53 AM
Quit buying parts and start building already!

4.3LXJ
04-29-2014, 10:56 AM
I dunno Deejay, you get all this stuff on and I will be embarrassed to be seen on the trail with you :D

07Negative
04-30-2014, 12:42 PM
Quit buying parts and start building already!

Well that's not entirely happening yet. But the building does however begin soon. BofA keeps sending me money for some awesome reason, which I wont contend (From the sell of my house). So I just placed another order for a few minor things. 1 of which is very frivolous.
I've got $300 left to pay off on my tires. Then I have to get 2 new rims for the front, due to the change in bolt pattern. OEM 5x4.5 going to 5x5.5.
I should start on the actual build in a week or 2. My buddy had to fire a 2 workers b/c they screwed up BIG time. The customers truck caught fire after leaving the shop. Luckily this fire took place right in front of the fire station in Walnut Creek.

4.3LXJ
04-30-2014, 12:47 PM
The customers truck caught fire after leaving the shop. Luckily this fire took place right in front of the fire station in Walnut Creek.

Second worst place in the world to have a fire. Worst is inside the fire station :frog:

07Negative
04-30-2014, 02:27 PM
I dunno Deejay, you get all this stuff on and I will be embarrassed to be seen on the trail with you :D

HA! Hardly! Dude, you've built your jeep. I've only ordered parts. Your XJ is pretty badass! Even with that turdy5 in the rear.
I do have to admit though. I've getting stoked as all hell about this build. Suspension will be dialed in. New tires is like wearing new undies. Axles will be built. Even though they aren't 1 tons. They should do me well.
My interior is falling apart though. So after this mess and assuming the motor and transmission hold up ok. I'll start on the interior work.
I've been a big fan of Eric and his XJ and also Dean Murray's XJ for quite a few years now.

07Negative
04-30-2014, 02:30 PM
Second worst place in the world to have a fire. Worst is inside the fire station :frog:

Isn't that the truth! My buddy Cliff was pretty pissed off. Fired the 2 dudes on the spot after throwing some car parts and tools. I only saw the aftermath. But knowing Cliff. I'm glad I wasn't there for the explosion of his anger. 6'3" 220'lbs ex marine German. Ida piss myself had I been on the receiving end.

4.3LXJ
04-30-2014, 02:31 PM
If you are doing interior, I have a full set of power leather seats in excellent condition. I asked my son if he wanted them for his YJ, but he was kind of iffy on that. I will be using the seats out of the WJ, full power etc and they recline :D If he doesn't want them, do you?

07Negative
04-30-2014, 02:32 PM
A few things I was missing for brackets and ordered those today. Plus one frivolous item

http://www.tntcustoms.com/HD_Lower_Control_Arm_Mounts.aspx

http://www.tntcustoms.com/axle_bracket/trackbar/crossover_highsteer.aspx

And the frivolous part

http://www.tntcustoms.com/rear_axle_truss/chrysler_825/Jeep_Cherokee_XJ.aspx

07Negative
04-30-2014, 02:40 PM
When the time comes. I'm probably going with a set of Beard seats and harnesses. Not sure what I'll do with the rear bench seat yet. Gotta have a spot for the kid of course. But I'm on the fence if I should make space for a potential second kid. I don't want another kid, but if the Mrs gets her way. We'll have another. I'd rather get another rottweiler.
I like what Dean did with his interior. Get rid of all the plastic dash and center console. But I want to incorporate a hybrid cage like how Eric did with his. I even like what Eric did with his front Fenders. I just don't want to tie anything into my bumpers. I like the idea of being able to remove my bumpers. My Jeep is a DD and gets alot of miles a year. So if by chance I do get into a fender bender or something. And need to replace/service something. I like the option.
I'm going to do the 2x6" rocker panel skids. I just have to figure out which route to go. I'm not interested in cutting up my doors. I think I'll just need 4 2x4 braces for the "frame." I think that otta be sufficient for strength.

07Negative
05-03-2014, 11:35 PM
Axle building starts this week! I take parts to the garage on Tuesday.

4.3LXJ
05-03-2014, 11:36 PM
Good luck Deejay

07Negative
05-04-2014, 01:14 PM
Thanks Steve. It'll be some long nights to come that's for sure. Work my 9-6 job. Drive to walnut creek to work on axles.
I just learned that I'll be losing my Sunday job here shortly too. It's what has allowed me such fortunes to support this build. I'm really bumed out. I've been here for 9 years as of April 5th. It's a blessing for sure.

4.3LXJ
05-04-2014, 03:44 PM
Well, now you will have time to work on it

07Negative
05-07-2014, 03:40 PM
I got the last few brackets & the rear truss today.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-76.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-76.jpg.html)

I've got a question on this high steer track bar bracket though. Shouldn't this be welded on the inside as well? It's 2 separate jointing pieces of metal. The outside is welded. But I thought when joining 2 pieces together. You weld both sides?

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-79.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-79.jpg.html)

07Negative
05-14-2014, 05:49 PM
Had to get 2 new wheels in 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Went with these for now.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-80.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-80.jpg.html)

But I really want these at the of $350 each.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-81.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-81.jpg.html)

Oh and a pair of these :) Beard Super T1 seats

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-82.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-82.jpg.html)

07Negative
05-19-2014, 01:37 PM
I'm ordering up parts for the rear, to do a disk brake conversion and to also match the front bolt pattern of 5x5.5. Kinda freaks me out to have 2 different patterns. I'm taking the KJ (Liberty) route. I've read 2 really good write ups on this swap and it's a no brainer. Everything bolts up perfect. There are 3 minor details however. You need the KJ bolts for the backing plates, from the KJ 8.25 axle. The stock XJ ones are a touch too short. There are 4 for each side.
The other detail is, you'll need wheel studs from a front Dana 30 as well. A total of 10 studs. Reason being is that the thickness of the rotor hat is that much thicker than the original drum.
I'm going to use a zj ebrake cable for the passenger side and the KJ e brake cable for the drivers side, until I can figure out a shorter cable. A zj cable is too short. An Explorer cable is also too short. I'll just have to wrap the drivers side ebrake cable into a 6" diameter and zip tie it until I find a better solution. Now the soft lines for the brakes, I'll just use OEM KJ lines. The 03-06 brake lines from the KJ is all one piece and the consensus is that it's just too much work when there are easier and effective alternatives.
While reading through other write ups. It seemed some of the lesser familiar folks were really unsure how one would change the bolt pattern. The flang on the axle shaft has a bolt pattern already drilled into it. So for instance. I ordered Alloy USA 1541 axle shafts. Since they were made for the application of a 29 spline 8.25 axle. They came with a 5x4.5 bolt pattern already drilled. So to get the 5x5.5 bolt pattern. I'll need to redrill holes into both the flange of the axle shaft and the hat of the disk brake rotor. There is an aluminum template that has a bunch of bolt patterns on it and I'll use that to drill the holes in both items, using a drill press.
I was going to be lazy and buy the TeraFlex kit. But at the tune of $660. I decided against it. I should be able to get these parts for less than $400. I'm hoping even less. And this price will ultimately differ from region to region and supply and demand of course. Rock Auto and such websites will be your friend. Here in the Bay Area of Cali. We don't have the pleasure of having Picking and Pulls. There are a few. But not the kinda stuff I/we need. Great if you have a Buick or Corolla.
I'll have part numbers available as I go along. I'll also include pictures. And I'll edit this post as needed as well.

07Negative
05-20-2014, 05:23 PM
Well folks! Back to the drawing board. The shafts won't allow me to drill 5x5.5 bolt pattern. So now I'm thinking to build up my dana 44 instead. G/f found out how much I've spent so far. She's pretty pissed off. Awesome times.:bang:

Brasscatz
05-20-2014, 05:55 PM
Next thing you know, she'll put you on a monthly allowance for your Jeep Fund and she'll be the one balancing the checkbook....

07Negative
05-20-2014, 06:53 PM
She wants me to get rid of the jeep. Get something practical. I gotta admit tho. This shit is getting freaking expensive!

07Negative
05-20-2014, 08:45 PM
acquired a Detroit locker for the Dana 44 already. $200. In the form of an IOU. 300M shafts would be sweet! But they rack up to $1500, that I simply don't have. I'll stick to Made in India Alloy USA shafts for now. Stick to the drum brakes that are already on the axle. Just freshen them up.
Man, what a let down kinda day. On a bright note. I've only got $100 left to pay off on the tires and I got 2 of them mounted for now.

07Negative
05-20-2014, 08:48 PM
Tires mounted.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-87.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-87.jpg.html)

07Negative
05-20-2014, 09:15 PM
Sorry to clog this thread up with nonsense. But I posted some stuff for sale in the "sale" section. I yank the axle out in STAT just to put some coin my in pocket, only to dump it into the D44. Thanks folks

07Negative
05-21-2014, 02:50 PM
There are few things that really piss me the Phuk off. And that's not so great customer service or price gouging a fella who has spent thousand of phuking dollars with a business. Only to be told I'll be charged a 20% restocking fee for returning an item for the correct item. I'm keeping my money there. It's not going any where. It's just a switch er ru. I'm really phuking pissed off right now.

4.3LXJ
05-21-2014, 04:15 PM
Was it their mistake?

07Negative
05-21-2014, 05:46 PM
Nope. It was a change in plans. Wont switch out the one product for the identical product for said application. It was for the rear truss. Oh then it was the Alloy shafts. Just a splendid past 2 days.

4.3LXJ
05-21-2014, 06:55 PM
Sorry to hear that. Lots of companies do that. But they make money on it beyond their costs

07Negative
05-21-2014, 08:57 PM
I know. And I know it's my fault for hitting a wall in the mist of my build. But if someone dropped $5K in my biz. I'd be kissing their ass. I think I'm a good customer. Pay in full w cash and don't ask much of folks. Oh well, thus is life. I'm more butt hurt b/c I'm broke. If I had money to just throw at it. I'd have a different attitude.
So since I'm stuck with $600 worth of product I can't exchange out. Ima just complete the 8.25 build. Quietly build the dana 44 I've got. Sell the 8.25 when thing look closer to completion with the D44. Then I won't be in the dog house & on the couch over it. I'm in so much trouble with the lady.
And on a positive. RuffStuff is a steeler, honest, understanding, and very fair company to do business with. I have to return my high steer arms bc they don't fit my knuckles. They'll give me a full refund. I've only spent about a grand there. But really cool folks!
Also Frank at Serious Offroad. I gotta give the guy a major high five for going to bat for me. I love doing business with that fella. I've spent a pretty penny with him as well. So thank you to those 2 businesses.

07Negative
06-06-2014, 01:05 PM
So the Jeep is in itty bitty pieces. I got the wrong high steer arms b/c the Reid knuckles for the Dana 30/44 is not the same as a genuine dana 44. I didn't know what I was buying. But luckily, I got these high steer arms from RuffStuff. RuffStuff didn't have cad files to make arms for my knuckles. So they are giving me a refund and I'll be getting knuckles from Ballistic Fab instead. So what I'll end up with is an actual cross over steering setup. Not a high steer.
I'll be going up to Loomis on Tuesday to return those arms and pick up a few other nicknacks.
And it looks like my front bumper comes in today. It's on the FedEx truck for delivery. I just hope it wasn't man handled too bad.
I still have to pick up 2x6" for the rocker panels.
I'm hoping someone picks up some of these parts off my so I can place an order for the rear bumper.
After talking with a few other cats. I kinda regret not getting the MT/R's. My iPhone screen is completely shattered. So I have it in a sandwich bag so I don't get the sharp pieces of glass anywhere. Already got a piece in my foot. So I wont have pix any time soon. I still have to find the time to get the screen replaced.

07Negative
06-06-2014, 07:30 PM
Found these guys today. Even local to me. I think I could use a few things from them

http://www.stage8.com/index.html

XJ Wheeler
06-06-2014, 08:43 PM
Found these guys today. Even local to me. I think I could use a few things from them

http://www.stage8.com/index.html

Ya know, I just saw those the other day in some video where this guy was using them on his header. Seems like an excellent idea!

07Negative
06-07-2014, 02:35 PM
My exhaust bolts come loose all the damn time. I'm going to stop by their shop later this week. See if they'll do a cash deal. Cash is king usually.

4.3LXJ
06-07-2014, 02:42 PM
From what I could see from the pics, the new Jeeps have something similar on the header flange to keep them from coming loose

07Negative
06-08-2014, 09:55 AM
Been looking at winches lately, since I've finally got something to attach it to. Oh the choices.

Brasscatz
06-08-2014, 10:27 AM
Depending on what your goal is (price vs. name brand), Harbor Freight has had a winch sale going on and there's a coupon for a good winch for cheap.

4.3LXJ
06-08-2014, 10:35 AM
Go for line speed Deejay.

07Negative
06-11-2014, 02:29 PM
I'm a quality snob. So Warn comes to mind the most. I suppose name branding has worked it spell on me. Been looking a the M8000 and some 9000lbs. Tomorrow is my bday. So I asked the Miss' since she asked me what I wanted, but I think it's a far fetch ideal, since these things are essentially a grand.
I might have to resort to whoring myself out again on Craigslist. :)

4.3LXJ
06-11-2014, 03:07 PM
You might want to look at Superwinch. They have a fast one too for less money

07Negative
06-11-2014, 03:21 PM
I've been reading about how some folks will had batteries drained in a short period of time as well from winching. So I've been looking into amp draw more than speed. I'm not sure about this. But I'm thinking a alternator with more amps, thicker & better battery cables and terminals, as well as a dual battery setup.
Dual batteries would probably have one in the cargo area to leave room to do the same style onboard air system you have Steve. I'd like to do what Eric did with his XJ and use one of the 2x6" rockers as a tank. All this will be the next stage of projects. Minus the winch, it should be rather cheap to do. Unless I go crazy and get a MeanGreen alternator. But I'm looking into lesser expensive choices for Alternators.
The Superwinch isn't cheap either. Pretty expensive.

4.3LXJ
06-11-2014, 03:26 PM
It is true that the faster winches draw more power. You get what you pay for. But as for winching yourself out, the faster line speed capability plus some wheel spin is a good combo. There are other alternators out there. To start with, the ZJ alternators put out about 135 amps. That is much better than the usual 90 or 100. The trick anyway is to keep the engine revved a little to keep up the voltage with the high amp draw. And yes, dual batteries are on the list. Any winch is just like a starter motor, only worse. So if you don't have a source charging it, the battery will drain down quickly. If you have 800 cold cranking amps, then a which drawing that much will draw it down in less than a minute

07Negative
06-11-2014, 03:35 PM
Maybe I'll chill on the winch thing for now. Get my alt. battery, wiring stuff situated first. There's more to consider than just throwing a winch on and calling it day.

4.3LXJ
06-11-2014, 03:36 PM
True that

slipinkramer
06-11-2014, 03:42 PM
I have found that pure grunt beats speed every time. I have never, ever found myself wishing for more winch speed...

Worm drive winches such as the Ramsey RE Series and the Superwinch Husky Series pull the hardest and the longest. Therefore, they are the slowest too...

slipinkramer
06-11-2014, 03:49 PM
Here is a winch that offers tip-top quality, top pulling ability (don't be fooled by the poundage rating) reasonably light battery drain and very fast line speed. This one is not a weekend warrior's winch. This one is a winchers winch. Its a mechanical work of art. I want one!

Amazon.com: WARN 38631 M8274-50 8000-lb Winch: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51IV1gSsLYL.@@AMEPARAM@@51IV1gSsLYL

You will notice that all these nice features come at a price...

4.3LXJ
06-11-2014, 03:51 PM
Used to have one of those

07Negative
06-11-2014, 06:02 PM
HA! a $2,000 winch. I'd have to sell myself and my cloned self. Damn son, I need a better paying job.

slipinkramer
06-11-2014, 07:42 PM
HA! a $2,000 winch. I'd have to sell myself and my cloned self. Damn son, I need a better paying job.

Same here...

Personally I use a $200 Chinese winch I got on sale at Harbor Freight. I can say that it has pulled the Jeep every time I needed it to.

4.3LXJ
06-11-2014, 07:45 PM
I have a Mile Marker I got for $299. It worked every time, except the last time. That was when the wife said to get myself a good winch. So I bought the Warn :D

07Negative
06-23-2014, 12:48 PM
Note to self: Kickass Axles in Loomis does cryo treating and makes killer axles and great service. Cryo treating is only $75 for the set!
Mike Shaffer fabricator in Alameda(Shaffer Offroad).

http://www.kickassoffroad.com/kick_ass_offroad_final_003.htm

http://www.shaffersoffroad.com/blog/

07Negative
06-23-2014, 01:12 PM
Going with Sierra Gear b/c they use an old Dana facility in Korea, using Dana casts. Their prices are fair and local to me. Just need to find someone local to install them for less than $700. But someone that does it well. It might turn out that I just have to pay top dollar for top quality work.

07Negative
06-25-2014, 09:18 AM
Dropped my axle & truss off with Mike Shaffer yesterday at his shop. DUDES! This guy is badass! It's him & 2 other cats in their mid 20's. I wish I coulda got some pix. This place is like walking into a strip club full of the hottest chicks, but instead it's offroad vehicles. Nicest people too.