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NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:38 PM
99 DD & Weekend Warrior

I have this build on another site, and figured I'd make a copy of it here as well, as this community is more Cherokee Specific.
I've started this thread to document and share the build process of my Jeep... A 1999 Cheokee Sport. 4.0L I6, AW4, NP242, HP D30/C8.25
I have lots of plans for it, but for now here is the way I got it - back in Feb of 2010.
Picked it up bone stock. I'm the 3rd owner.

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/2768/frontkx.jpg (http://img37.imageshack.us/i/frontkx.jpg/)

With a lovely 1" sag in the rear.

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/416/66bc9592cd8b12660016410.jpg (http://img651.imageshack.us/i/66bc9592cd8b12660016410.jpg/)

First up was a couple of quick essentials:
Came across some killer deals I couldn't pass up, so I figured I might as well add some goodies: Cobra 19DX IV -from Craigslist
Got a deal on a K40 4ft 2kw tunable fiberglass antenna from the same guy.
...with a trip to Radio Shack, and a few things from the Auto Parts Store:
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/677/picture005gk.jpg (http://img189.imageshack.us/i/picture005gk.jpg/)

And..... A Yakima Warrior Rack for dirrrt cheap.
$175 with mounts and wind dam!
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/1153/picture006jx.jpg (http://img189.imageshack.us/i/picture006jx.jpg/)

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/6584/picture002m.jpg (http://img641.imageshack.us/i/picture002m.jpg/)

(yes... at the time I was living in an apartment complex:mad: )
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/9674/picture003bn.jpg (http://img641.imageshack.us/i/picture003bn.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:39 PM
MARCH 2010:
Well after weeks of driving around with a god awful clatter and *thunking* sound coming from the back end, I finally had a friend help me track down the exact source of the noise. Turned out to be my right rear shock. Totally blown, and in dire need of replacement.
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/6326/bpeinstall001.jpg (http://img683.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall001.jpg/)
I had originally thought it was the rear lift gate, and after buying new bumpstops at the stealership, and installing those, the noise was still there. In fact it just got worse over the next couple weeks. Well I had been shopping around for lifts, and i knew i was going to end up with a 3.5" with full leaf packs and of course new shocks all around. But i had been waiting on a couple pay checks, and a tax return to make it happen. In the mean time, and more for safety's sake and my own peace of mind than anything, i decided to just swap out the old OEM shocks for something of equal value, ($24ea at Nappa.) I also knew I was going to throw in some Bar Pin Eliminators at the same time, so I picked up some JKS Rear Upper BPE's from one of my local 4WD shops- Central 4WD. Got 'em for $40 out the door!
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/1613/bpeinstall005.jpg (http://img683.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall005.jpg/)

Below I'll detail how it all went.
>
So I began the install around 2:30, 2 days of PB Blasting everything to hopefully avoid the dreaded rear upper shock bolts breaking. FAT CHANCE!!!! ALL FOUR snapped right off. Lowers came off no problem, but I know there was a good chance the uppers were going to snap, and shure enuff, they all did. Luckily I did my homework and read a thread on how to circumvent this issue. I simply drilled out the old bolts - had to use a good high speed carbide drill bit - and knock out the old welded nuts on the chassis.
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/4338/bpeinstall003.jpg (http://img683.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall003.jpg/)
Easy enuff, just took alot of elbow grease and a good corded drill to get thru the bolts, and a hammer and punch did the rest.
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/3635/bpeinstall004.jpg (http://img683.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall004.jpg/)
Here's a shot of the old shocks compared to the new ones. Nothing special, but as you can see the OEM's were just toast.
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/8368/bpeinstall002.jpg (http://img683.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall002.jpg/)
Once I got the old ones out and the holes drilled, it was off to the parts store to get the RIGHT hardware. I had originally picked up some 7/16" grade 8 bolts, but those were WAY too fat to fit in thru the JKS BPE's. Ended up going with 5/16"x2" grade 8, a larger washer on top to keep the head from coming thru the holes I drilled, then a smaller washer and a lock washer for the bottom side of the BPE's. Got back and started to set everything up.
The trick to getting the new bolts thru the drilled holes is to use a length of thin wire to fish them thru the triangular access holes that are directly in front of the shock locations. Not alot of room but its not that far to fish. Just make sure the wire is wrapped around the bottom of the bolts real good.
It's actually pretty easy to do. Here's a shot of one done already and me fishing the second one thru:
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/9379/bpeinstall007.jpg (http://img683.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall007.jpg/)
And VOILA!! -out comes the bolt.
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/3395/bpeinstall008.jpg (http://img203.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall008.jpg/)
Once that was done, it was time to extract the bar pins from the new shocks, WHAT A PAIN IN THE A**!!!
But a little more PB Blaster, some vice work, and a good pickle fork used for ball joints and they came out:
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/9606/bpeinstall009.jpg (http://img683.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall009.jpg/)
Once those were out it was time to got the BPE's on them. That went fairly smooth. Just lubed up the shaft (lol), stuck the base in the vice, and while rotating the shock back & forth with one hand I pressed down with the other to get it to seat. Then simply placed the other end of the BPE on and used the vice to clamp them down, then hammered down the set pin. TA-DA!!!
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/487/bpeinstall010.jpg (http://img35.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall010.jpg/)
....yes I know the holes are 90deg from where they should be, but that was easily remedied.
Once the shocks were ready, they simply slipped over the bolts that were hanging thru the holes, I placed the lower end over the bottom mount, that kept the whole assembly in place while i put on the washers and the nuts. Tightening them down requires you to get an open ended wrench in thru that triangular opening to keep the bolt from spinning. Not as necessary as it sounds. Didnt need to do it on a couple of them. Torqued it all down real good. And I WAS DONE!!!! ----only FIVE HOURS LATER!
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/8194/bpeinstall011.jpg (http://img35.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall011.jpg/)
Another shot of the shocks installed with the JKS Bar Pin Eliminators:
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/764/bpeinstall012.jpg (http://img35.imageshack.us/i/bpeinstall012.jpg/)
I highly recommend this method for anyone installing rear shocks and end up snapping bolts. Don't be a idiot and start cutting up the floor of your jeep to try to do this form the top. The most difficult part was the drilling. But with the right tools, and enough preparation this isn't that bad of a job. And it was all ready to go when I finally ordered my lift kit with new shocks. I will document that process as well.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:42 PM
MARCH 2012:
Next up was to make sure some of the mechanical was all in order. A Full Tune-up was done. I had been keeping real good track of the MPG's and i was averaging a solid 15-16 mpg. The best i had was a touch over 18. I know these things arent the most fuel economic vehicle out there, but i know there was 2-4 mpg i could squeek out of it. I also knew that my down stream (after the cat) O2 sensor was bad thanks to a trip to the mechanics shop for a full "used vehicle inspection." So after a trip down to the parts store here's what I decided to do, plugs, cap, rotor, O2 sensor, and a new high flow air filter.
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/9579/marchtuneup001.jpg (http://img707.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup001.jpg/)
I decided to do a modification to my stock air box, as I didnt want to fork out the bucks for a full intake system that gives you the protection from both heat, and water. Keeping the stock air box and dropping in a good high flow, gives about the same results as a aftermarket system.
Here's how that all went:
First you remove the blow by tube, and the intake tube form the air box, removing the air filter, leaves you this:
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/8775/marchtuneup002.jpg (http://img707.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup002.jpg/)
There's two mounts that hold this in place, the one towards the rear is on a stud, while the one towards the front bolts thru the box to a welded nut on the body. I PB blasted them before hand, and let it soak for about 30mins before proceeding. Of course in true Jeep fashion, the front bolt broke off on me:
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8831/marchtuneup009.jpg (http://img535.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup009.jpg/)
No worries, on to the next steps..... The factory air box has a small, flanged intake port. This restricts the airflow into the intake, and can easily be modified. Now this CAN be done IN the vehicle, but it is far easier taking it out, and i'll show you why later.
This shows the factory opening in the air box. (i had aleady made most of the cuts, in this pic):
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/2592/marchtuneup003.jpg (http://img707.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup003.jpg/)
After the cutting is done: (note: all i used was a jig saw to make the cuts, a saw blade, hot knife, or sawzall could be used to do this as well.)
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/5363/marchtuneup004.jpg (http://img413.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup004.jpg/)
This shows after the cut, the difference between the stock opening, and the modified one as you can see, this will allow a much greater mass of air to be drawn in, while still keeping the filter out of the elements:
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/2527/marchtuneup005.jpg (http://img413.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup005.jpg/)
Next I de-burred the edges with a file, and smoothed all the cuts, rounding them off, leaving no restrictions for airflow.

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6660/marchtuneup007.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup007.jpg/)
After modifications are done, reinstall the air box. With one of my bolts broken, the only factory mounting point was the rear stud. There is however (on my 99) a small hole (aprox 1/8" in the bottom towards the front,) which I used as a guide to drill a pilot hole in the body for a new screw to secure the front half of the air box. You'll see the shiny #10 x 1/2" steel screw in this pic that was used.
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8184/marchtuneup010.jpg (http://img535.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup010.jpg/)
Only thing left to do is drop in the new air filter and button it all up.
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/549/marchtuneup011.jpg (http://img535.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup011.jpg/)

Next it was on to the tune up, the plugs were definitely shot:
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/5868/marchtuneup019.jpg (http://img242.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup019.jpg/)
And the cap was toast too. Note the build up on the contact points, obviously this would prevent good electrical conductivity, and create a weak spark. Now the engine wasn't running rough before, but it certainly lacked pep, and the mpg's were showing sign of ineffeciency.
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/6913/marchtuneup023.jpg (http://img402.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup023.jpg/)
Now I know i could have just scraped the contacts, and sanded the rotor down to shiny metal and called it good. But to me thats just a band aid.

Next was on to the O2 sensor, let first say that was a PITA to get out. It was rusty, and might as well have been welded in. It was probably the OEM unit, and had never been replaced. I soaked it with PB Blaster several times for at least 1.5 hours before hand. Finally came out and here's the comparison between the old (left) and the new (right)
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/9003/marchtuneup012.jpg (http://img260.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup012.jpg/)
The new sensor had a much longer wire harness, and after installed it was obvious that there was potential for failure, as the harness was lying on the drive line:

So using the factory plastic connector shield (black plastic assembly in photo) I noticed a spot where there was room for a zip-tie to be placed tying up the harness out of the way.
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/3674/marchtuneup017.jpg (http://img260.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup017.jpg/)
Note the small rectangular opening towards the bottom of the plastic housing at the bottom of the pic:
(also, this housing must be removed in order to disconnect the old sensor and plug in the new one, only one bolt holds it in place, and strangely enough, came out quite easily)
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/1688/marchtuneup018.jpg (http://img260.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup018.jpg/)

Thats pretty much it. I had in the beginning removed the positive battery terminal, and after a few minutes, held it ground briefly to discharge the computer's memory. This caused some rough idling and acceleration upon restart after the job was completed, but smoothed out after a full heat cycle, and a 30 min drive. Even after that, I could tell the computer was still "learning" and will eventually smooth out completely with more driving.
Towards the end of the drive it was very clear that the engine was running ALOT better, and acceleration had improved as well.
Hope this shows you how an afternoon, and a few things form the parts store can not only improve efficiency, but also give you a little increase in performance.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:43 PM
In March of 2010 I bought the lift kit, but at the time I was living in an apartment complex, and it took a while to get the time (and for the weather to cooperate) and place to do the install. Here's a pic of the all the parts (minus the full leaf pack) as it sat in my living room before the install.

LIFT KIT INSTALL - PHASE-1 - MAY 2010
3" ProComp Kit with full leaf packs (rubber bushings and 4 degree shims installed already), New U-bolts, 3" coils, front brake line relocation tabs/brackets, new lower control arms, sway bar drop brackets, and new sway bar links, track bar relocation bracket, Pro Comp ES3000 shocks, shock boots, and JKS front lower bar pin eliminators. (already have the rears installed.)
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/2705/procomplift001.jpg (http://img690.imageshack.us/i/procomplift001.jpg/)

So now that we're all up to speed, here's how the install went.
Backed it in, and started in on the rear. I knew this was going to be the most difficult, and had the possibility of presenting the most issues.
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img257.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

With the rear end jacked up and on stands, the rear wheels came off and I dove right in.
http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img692.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Many weeks of PB Blasting had been done. In the last 6-8 weeks alone I've gone thru 2 full cans, and during the install, went thru 1/2 of another can.
Fist to come out was the rear sway bar. Three bolts of the four came out with no issue at all. But in true Jeep fashion, one of the weld-nuts decided to break off in the frame rail. So with a quick trip to Harbor Freight for a cheapo 4.5" angle grinder, It got cut off.
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img28.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

And out it came. Wont be needing this any more! :cool:
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img375.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Next up was the front leaf spring mounts. I've read several posts where these have been touted as one of the worst parts of a lift install on an XJ.
After some close inspection, I found this little hole just to the inside of the mount.
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img156.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

If you spray inside at the right angle, you can get right to the threads of the bolt sticking thru the weld-nut. A straw would be awesome on the end of the spray nozzle, but PB Blaster has a pretty good stream so it wasnt too hard, just dont be shy with the lube. SOAK IT. If you get the right angle (see arrow) you can hit it pretty good. I did this for weeks before the install.
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

This proved to work well, as the first - front leaf spring bolt came out with out too much difficulty. I did have a 3/4" 2ft breaker bar, and I torched the bolt too, just to be safe. Last thing I wanted was to break one of those weld-nuts.
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img228.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

I can't explain just how "crunchy" and nasty this was and how absolutely CAKED with rust this bolt/weld-nut were. This pic just barely shows how much crap is built up inside these.
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img709.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:43 PM
The driver's side front leaf spring bolt was a whole nother story. This didnt want to budge. So i sprayed, and torched......
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

....sprayed, and torched some more, and after putting all I had into it.....
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img188.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

It finally broke free. Creaks, and cracks, and the most gawd awful "wet sand" noise every time I got a turn out of it. It came out about an inch.... then stopped. A typical issue from what i've read on Jeep Forum. Here's the arsenal of tools required to do this part of it:
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/7340/procompliftinstallmay20z.jpg (http://img188.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20z.jpg/)

If this ever happens to you.... take my advice and dont just keep turning. I did that while getting on it with a pickle fork, trying to pry it out as i turned. It didnt work. After a whole lot of torching, and prying the leaf spring eye to one side as much as possible, i was able to get a set of vice grips onto the collar/sleeve/tube thing that goes thru the center of the bushing. The bolt rusts/fuses with this, and wont back out. There's enough bite on the threads of the weld nut to push it thru part of the way, but after that your SOL. If you just keep turning, and dont stop that sleeve from spinning inside the bushing, this will happen:
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img266.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

The threads stripped out from the bolt just spinning against them and not backing out. There was maybe 2 or 3 good threads at the very end of it. I tried chasing the threads with the new bolts, but no luck.

The rears came out pretty easy. Lost of pre-spraying did the trick. That and the right tools really help. Quite rusty, and definitely due for a swap.
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img442.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Once the whole spring was out I got a better look at the old. Here's a close up of the front eye. I have some choice words for this s.o.b.
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img168.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Speaking of swap. Here's the new shiny that will be replacing the old rusty junk hardware. THANK YOU JACK-IT!!! ---> Suspension lift kits, body lifts, leveling kits, shocks and other 4x4 products - Jackit.com (http://www.jackit.com/store/supercart.cgi?s=jac1022)
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img202.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:44 PM
Here's the old vs. the new leaf springs. Nice arch on the new, flatness-saggy-worthlessness on the the old. I'm SO GLAD I went with a full pack over an AAL. An Add A Leaf simply wouldnt have given me the net gain of lift I got form a full leaf pack, and would have just sagged over a short period of time.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

So after the old leaf springs were out, it was time to tackle the repair of the stripped out drivers side front leaf spring weld nut. Here's what was required:
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/5051/procompliftinstallmay20i.jpg (http://img202.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20i.jpg/)
A 12" x 1/2" drill bit. This is long enough to reach all the way through with out any interference. This bit will ream the hole to the appropriate size in order to install a Heli-Coil. A Uni-Bit to enlarge the outer hole enabling you to clear a socket to hold the tap tool. A 14-2.0 tap tool, and the smallest possible socket to capture the end of it. You wont have room for a typical "T" style tap handle. A 14-2 Heli-Coil Kit - includes the previously mentioned tap tool, coils, and coil install tool. (be prepared, this kit cast nearly $80). And of course a NEW bolt to install/check afterwards. Dont even THINK of using the old hardware.
Here's the outer hole only SLIGHTLY reamed out larger for tool clearance.
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img411.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

The process of tapping the old, reamed out weld-nut, is very tough. This is at least grade-5 type hardware. The tap is tough enough for the job, but you'll want to tackle the first part of this with a drill. Doing this by hand would take forever, and most likely give poor results. There will come a point when the drill just wont have the torque to finish the job. Thats why I went with the socket method. This enabled me to finish the job with good results. Its always a good idea to clear out the chip load (shaved metal) and lube often. This will make things easier and give better results. Once your drilled, and tapped, you'll thread in the Heli-Coil just past flush with the frame rail. Because of the intensity of this whole repair, I neglected to take a few, "mid-way" pics. But here's the finished product:
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img204.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img697.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Now that the weld-nut is repaired, its time to get the new leaf springs in and move on. I recommend installing the front of the leaf spring first. This will prove to make things easier in the long run. Installing leaf spring by yourself can be difficult, but with the right tools/technique, it can be a breeze. You'll need a bottle jack, a floor jack, and a pry bar. This will give you 3 axis' of control to line up the bushing eye with the shackle. By this time the rear axle is only connected by the drive shaft, and brake line, everything else is disconnected, but the axle is still supported by a floor jack under the differential. this will enable you to manipulate the axle easily to give yourself as much room as possible to fit parts, and for working room. Having the axle as low as possible will make it easy to fit the new springs in. Once the front is in, (sorry no pic) loosely install the new U-bolts, and move on to the rear. The bottle jack will go on top of the spring and press against the top/back of the wheel well. Dont worry, there's not a lot of force being applied here, your not going to dent anything.
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img714.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Extending the bottle jack will control the forward/backward axis of the spring.
The floor jack (placed under the axle tube on the side your working on) will control the upward/downward axis of the spring.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/4425/procompliftinstallmay20l.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20l.jpg/)

The last control factor is the use of a pry bar against the shackle. This will (of course) move the shackle into a position where you can slip (maybe hammer) the new leaf spring eye bolt thru.
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/2296/procompliftinstallmay20x.jpg (http://img257.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20x.jpg/)

Since the jacks work independently, and can be adjusted then left alone without having to hold them, you have one hand free for the pry bar, and one hand free to install the bolt.
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img94.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img704.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:44 PM
Next is the shocks. Since I've already done this once, it went super smooth. Bar pin eliminators FTW!!! Here's the old (blue) and the new (white).
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img243.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img13.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img42.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

After this, it was just a matter of throwing on the 1.25" Hub Centric Wheel Spacers. I got these off of Craigslist, one of those deals I couldnt pass up. For the price of 1 to 2 wheels, i got wheel spacers that simulate roughly 4" of back spacing on my stock Eco-5's. Red Loctite on the threads, and torqued to 85ft lbs.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/3579/procompliftinstallmay20s.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20s.jpg/)

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img708.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Once that was done, the wheels/tires went back on, and a quick pic was taken: HUGE difference!!!
BEFORE: http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/1571/marchtuneup026.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup026.jpg/)

AFTER: (rear only)
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/5051/procompliftinstallmay20i.jpg (http://img168.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20i.jpg/)

So there it is!! Back half was done and a good preview of whats to come.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:45 PM
Ok, so after the rear was done, I moved right to the front end. Turned the Jeep around and started the tear down. I dont have alot of pics of this stage pf things, as I was making great progress, and got caught up in the momentum of things. It all went pretty easy. First off was the sway bars. Those came out pretty easy. Here's the old vs. the new. Beefier, taller, and hinged for a little more articulation over the stock style.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img171.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

The new ones went in real easy, and look great too. I'll eventually mod them to disco in the future, but they'll be fine for now.
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img710.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/6986/procompliftinstallmay20p.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20p.jpg/)

Yes those are the new lower control arms half installed. I forgot to take a side by side of the new and old ones. The old ones came out without too much difficulty, alot of pre spray with the PB Blaster, a breaker bar, and an electric impact wrench made fairly quick work of this process. Had to re-use the old hardware, but it cleaned up well enough, and the threads weren't in bad shape.
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img40.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Greasing everything up real good helps get these in place, a dead blow rubber mallet helped when some extra persuasion was needed. After it was all done: (This pic taken a few days after install.)
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img227.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Springs were next, no spring compressor was needed. These are only 3" springs, had they been like 5" or bigger, one MAY have been needed. But by this time virtually everything of the old suspension was off already. Shocks were out, the lower control arms had not yet been bolted to the axle, and the sway bars hadnt been tightened up yet. So the axle was easy to manipulate. Just lower it as far as it will go, (with the jeep up on stands as far as IT will go, and you'll have plenty of room.) just lower the axle on one side, lift on the other a bit, and it will pivot to the point of where you can pull the spring out (after removing the spring retainer clip first of course.)
Old vs new:
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img155.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Not a huge difference in length, bu the gauge of the spring and the number of coils let you know this isnt going to sag or be as soft as the stock ones.
They went in as easy as the old ones came out, and again.... no spring compressor was needed. Just apply the same logic as before, and voila!
The shocks went in next as did the JKS Lower Bar Pin Eliminators. Easy as pie!
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img517.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)
Wheel spacers up front too of course
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/6986/procompliftinstallmay20p.jpg (http://img714.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20p.jpg/)
(yes i cut the zip tie)
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img241.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

The Trac Bar Relocation Bracket was last. No amount of grease and hammering made this go in easy. Talk about a tight fit!!! Goes right in place of where the trac bar mount in its stock location. Drill a hole for a second nut and bolt (grade 8) and remount the trac bar. This took some hammering to get in as well.
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/511/procompliftinstallmay20o.jpg (http://img535.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20o.jpg/)
(this pic taken a few days after install)
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img88.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

This put the steering wheel about 90degrees off from normal, but it still drove straight. I went and had it aligned a couple days later. I was told it wasnt all that far out of spec. - means i did my job right! - :thumbsup:

All said and done!!! Here it was after it was all buttoned up.
Bad angle before:
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/1571/marchtuneup026.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/i/marchtuneup026.jpg/)

And after!
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1511/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg (http://img18.imageshack.us/i/procompliftinstallmay20.jpg/)

Drives straight, handles great. The new suspension is far more responsive than the beat up, blown up stock suspension. No more jarring impact when I hit a pot hole, now it absorbs just about anything. (not that i'm stump jumping or looking to hit the biggest/deepest of pot holes.) I'm really quite happy with how it turned out. All together across two days, i put in about 21 hours of labor. Air tools, a hoist/lift would have made things go alot faster.
Drive line vibes are there, not horrible, but enough to where i've ordered a Transfer Case Drop Kit. And best of all... no death wobble or bump steer.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:46 PM
So of course there were some slight drive line vibrations, So I picked up a transfer case drop kit. The vibrations were getting to me, and ignoring something like that for any extended period of time is just not a good idea. They weren't bad really, not shaking the fillings out of my skull or anything. But still something had to be done. Called around, and no body had anything in stock, everybody was a week out. And internet shipping was going to get spendy. But Mark down at Central 4WD really came thru for me. They didnt have anything on their shelves, but he knew a local install shop that did, and had one drop-shipped for me that day. THANKS MARK!! So after work Friday, went and picked up my new Skyjacker Transfer Case Drop Kit for lifts 2.5" - 4.5".
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/2213/skyjackertcloweringkiti.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/i/skyjackertcloweringkiti.jpg/)

The install is pretty straight forward, however the instructions were recommending I loosen up the engine mounts, and breaking one of those bolts, or replacing a mount was just not a risk or project I was willing to deal with that weekend. So i went about dropping the transfer case cross member, 4 bolts (well 2 bolts and 2 nuts - each side has a stud that comes down, and a bolt that goes up into a weld nut.) 3 of the 4 came out no prob.
But of course, nothing is ever easy when working with Jeep hardware:
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/2213/skyjackertcloweringkiti.jpg (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/skyjackertcloweringkiti.jpg/)

Ugh... i'm getting real tired of seeing this every time I turn a wrench on this thing:
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/4633/skyjackertcloweringkitis.jpg (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/skyjackertcloweringkitis.jpg/)

I tried for over 5 hours to extract that damn f_cking bolt. No luck. Drilling, easy outs, 2 broken drill bits and a bunch of torching and welding experiments later, and it hadnt budged a inch. So i continued on with the install anyways. It all went in real easy (i still had to install the linkage drop bracket) and after everything else was in. It was time to WELD. I've only welded a couple times before. Nothing major. So lets hope my Farmer Jon Welds hold up.....
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/9829/skyjackertcloweringkitix.jpg (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/skyjackertcloweringkitix.jpg/)

Yea I know, ugly as hell. But its been nearly TWO YEARS now, and everything is rock solid still.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:47 PM
September of 2010 brought some new additions:
I had been staring at a pile of parts, and finally got the time to do something about it. HOWEVER.... On my way up to my buddy's place to use his tools and driveway, (I was still in the apartment at this point) my passenger front window fell into the door. Out of nowhere! No issues before hand on this, but right before it happened i hear this loud *TICK*... and I knew instantly what had happened. The regulators on the XJ's have a slight design flaw in how the window track grabs the worm drive gear to make it go up and down; its a tinly little piece of plastic. I know there's repair kits online, i've seen 'em before, but with rain on the way, i had to do something about it right away. $120 later, and I was tearing apart the door to do the swap. New motor and regulator went in.
Here we are with the door panel off,
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/6206/installsept2010001c.jpg (http://img706.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010001c.jpg/)
Easy to do, just take out all the screws, pop it loose from the door, remove the two blue plugs from the switches, and pop off these clips from the door release and lock linkage. They just rotate off. Might need to use a little force, but they DO come off, a flat head screwdriver will help with prying them loose.
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/362/installsept2010002.jpg (http://img835.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010002.jpg/)
Just remove all the bolts, that hold in the regulator and motor, unplug the wiring harness to the motor, and pull the whole assembly out. Here is the door all gutted. Just do the reverse to put in the new assembly. Pretty easy really. Only took about 30-45 min, if that.
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/671/installsept2010003.jpg (http://img706.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010003.jpg/)

Next up was the Transfer Case Drop Bracket Shift Linkage Spacer. Finally got my 4Lo back!
http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5893/installsept2010016.jpg (http://img838.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010016.jpg/)

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/9283/installsept2010015.jpg (http://img838.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010015.jpg/)

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/8453/installsept2010018.jpg (http://img838.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010018.jpg/)

Installation was pretty simple, had to pull the front seat out to get to the top of the bolts that hold the bracket to the floor pan, where the pivot point is. Other than that, it went pretty quick.
Next up was the Dyno Max Cat Back Exhaust. I had Been sittin on this for a while now, so I was anxious to put it on. This too went in real easy. Out with the old, in with the new!
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/2797/installsept2010011.jpg (http://img835.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010011.jpg/)
(Bizz the Cat decided to lend his expertise in this endeavor)
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/7017/installsept2010014.jpg (http://img835.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010014.jpg/)
As you can see it tucked up pretty nice.
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/8521/installsept2010013.jpg (http://img835.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010013.jpg/)

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/4275/installsept2010012.jpg (http://img835.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010012.jpg/)

And I picked these back in June or July of 2010, couldn't pass up the deal on got on them, and they're in like new condition. They'll work out perfectly too, as I don't do a whole lot of extreme rock crawling. Couple mounts to the "frame" and five across the pinch seam. Pretty much the same as alot of other rails out there.
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/7350/xjrocksliders.jpg (http://img706.imageshack.us/i/xjrocksliders.jpg/)
Looks good to me!
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/6871/installsept2010021.jpg (http://img201.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010021.jpg/)
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1261/installsept2010022.jpg (http://img201.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010022.jpg/)
And here's a shot in the daylight:
http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/2747/installsept2010019.jpg (http://img838.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010019.jpg/)
Went to install a JCR "type" rear bumper I got off a guy on Craigslist too, (almost identical in every way) but I think his jig was off when he welded it together, cuz it sat about a 1/4" too high, and wouldn't let the rear hatch close. All the work to take off the factory rear bumper, get this new one mocked into position, only to find out that it doesn't fit properly. I didn't have the time or the means to fix the fab work on it to make it fit right. So I put it on the back burner for a while.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:47 PM
SEPTEMBER 2010
Found a killer deal on Cragslist, a Brand New ProComp Steering Stabilizer, for only 15 BUCKS! The guy even had a black shock boot to go with it. Matches my whole suspension set up in every way! (ftw) :thumbsup:
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/9782/installsept2010.jpg (http://img696.imageshack.us/i/installsept2010.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:48 PM
OCTOBER 2010:
Finally got a house, and a GARAGE...

I put in the steering stabilizer I had picked up the month previous, but I had misplaced the boot that came with it, :brickwallso I'll end up putting that on (providing I can find it.) I of course needed the Breaker bar and a generous spraying of PB Blaster.
Here is the old one sprayed and ready to be torq'd upon:
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/9886/ststblzr022511001.jpg (http://img153.imageshack.us/i/ststblzr022511001.jpg/)

Here is the old nasty, out and the new shiny, ready to go in:
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/8333/ststblzr022511002.jpg (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/ststblzr022511002.jpg/)

Here it is all finished up:
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/515/ststblzr022511003.jpg (http://img836.imageshack.us/i/ststblzr022511003.jpg/)
It was a little below 19 degrees out right now, :chilly:and I couldn't close my garage all the way, but I had to get this done tonight, cause i was heading out for a wheelin' trip the next day.
The results? MUCH BETTER! The whole range of steering (lock to lock) was much smoother. Feels more....."confident", not necessarily more responsive, but "firmer" ... if that makes sense.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:49 PM
OCTOBER 2010:
Here's the install the Jet Performance Stage-1 Chip that I got off of a guy on Craigslist. These go for over $250 new on Quadratec http://www.quadratec.com/products/17608_0111.htm ...but I got mine for ONLY $40.00!!!!!! (god I love craigslist)That was one of those deals you just CANT pass up. Its plug and play, so no real need for a big write up, but I did snap some pics anyways just to document the upgrade.
Here's the Jeep shoe-horned into my garage:
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4088/jeep002w.jpg (http://img208.imageshack.us/i/jeep002w.jpg/)

My dirty Engine Compartment showing the ECU location before the chip install:
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/7332/jeep001.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/i/jeep001.jpg/)

And the Chip, along with some O-rings I picked up to make sure things stay sealed.
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7503/jeep003.jpg (http://img411.imageshack.us/i/jeep003.jpg/)

And here we are all installed:
http://img574.imageshack.us/img574/1590/jeep004.jpg (http://img574.imageshack.us/i/jeep004.jpg/)

I followed the install procedure listed in the PDF I got from Quadratec's website, it literally took like 10 minutes.
Hooked the battery back up, and drove it a few miles before getting on the freeway. I noticed right away by my super scientific "seat-of-the-pants-ometer" that there was a gain in the low end torque. This was further confirmed when pulling onto the freeway, the second gear power band had WAY more "oomph." This all coincides with the manufactures claims, and I feel that this was a good mod. Best gains are achieved when using higher octane fuel, and have a high flow intake, and cat-back exhaust installed. Both of which I have.
JET's dyno sheet backs up my super accurate scientific findings. The dyno tests show, on a 1999 TJ, with a 4.0L I6, and auto trans. (virtually the exact same drive train as my XJ) that there was a 12HP gain at 2500 RPM, and 10HP gain at 5k RPM, (max range) average gain of 11HP across the whole RPM range.
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/3925/jeepq.jpg (http://img708.imageshack.us/i/jeepq.jpg/)

I'm not gonna complain about 10HP for only 40 bux! I call that a win! The Jeep tested out fine on the 10 miles or so I drove, no CEL, or red flags of any kind. If you CAN get a deal, and if you have a 99 XJ with similar mods as mine, I would recommend this upgrade to anyone. I cant speak for any other year of Cherokee, or different degree of modifications.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:50 PM
FEBRUARY 2011:
Took a couple trips up to the Tillamook State Forest (TSF) recently where they have an OHV "park" Lots of trails. Most people around here know it as Browns Camp.
Been up there many times before in other peoples rides, and several times on bikes/quads etc. Got a couple videos posted up on youtube, nothin special, kinda hard to wheel and film at the same time. Did get a couple of poser shots though-
Fairly well flexed out:
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7499/brownscamp012911016.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/i/brownscamp012911016.jpg/)
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5243/brownscamp012911015.jpg (http://img705.imageshack.us/i/brownscamp012911015.jpg/)
STUUUUUFFFFF'D!!!
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/1797/brownscamp012911013.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/i/brownscamp012911013.jpg/)
One Dirrrty XJ taking the lead -open diffs, 235/75/15 All Terrains leading a locked up TJ on 35's ----Gotta Love It!!!
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/796/brownscamp012911010.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/i/brownscamp012911010.jpg/)
Went up again the following week, it was even wetter.
http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/625/brownscamp020511006.jpg (http://img809.imageshack.us/i/brownscamp020511006.jpg/)
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/3977/brownscamp020511005.jpg (http://img824.imageshack.us/i/brownscamp020511005.jpg/)
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/9131/brownscamp020511009.jpg (http://img192.imageshack.us/i/brownscamp020511009.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:50 PM
FEBRUARY 2011:
Tax returns came in and I bought some new shoes for the XJ:
I Had been doing a LOT of research over the last several months in regards to tires. I had also posted up a couple threads asking for advice on a couple of my selections, looked around the Jeep community for reviews and experiences with the tires i had settled on. And after reading well over 200 reviews (literally) across a bunch of websites, I had made the choice to get myself a set of Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac's. They're one of the most aggressive all terrains i've seen, look more like a mud terrain, and get nothing but good reviews. This rig is my daily driver, and i have a decent commute, so I had to stay somewhat tame on my tire choice. 31x10.50x15's are all i can fit for now. Haven't had a chance to break 'em in yet. But had to take a couple shots with the new rubber on right away anyways.

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/817/tires003.jpg (http://img265.imageshack.us/i/tires003.jpg/)
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/9756/tires005.jpg (http://img717.imageshack.us/i/tires005.jpg/)

The front was rubbing a bit on the bumper's end caps, so I trimmed and took off the lower air dam.
I will prob have to do more, if i stuff and turn they still rub a bit..... Man I need a decent front bumper!!!!
http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/6505/tires015.jpg (http://img809.imageshack.us/i/tires015.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:51 PM
MARCH 2011:
Well as luck would have it, my JCR Nut Strips arrived today.
MY BIRTHDAY!!! My first "Jeep-ish" present, even if it is from myself, its still worth documenting:
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1224/nutstrips030111002.jpg (http://img6.imageshack.us/i/nutstrips030111002.jpg/)

All unwrapped:
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/9739/nutstrips030111003.jpg (http://img19.imageshack.us/i/nutstrips030111003.jpg/)

The plan with these are to secure a trailer hitch (once I get one) and to mount up the OEM Steel Gas Tank Skid Plate I picked up off of Craigslist.
GOT IT FOR ONLY FIVE BUCKS!!! - You really cant beat that.
Here's a crappy pic of it just to show it off:
http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/83/nutstrips030111001.jpg (http://img580.imageshack.us/i/nutstrips030111001.jpg/)

I'll need to clean it up, maybe give it a fresh coat of satin black, but it'll be a good addition as far as armor goes.
As for the trailer hitch, i can grab a class III from U-Haul, for around $130 brand new. I'm still huntin on Craigslist to score one from there as an option, but i'd almost rather go for new, and be assured its a true class III.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:51 PM
MARCH 2011:
Scored again on Craigslist!
Picked up a set of H4 housings in near mint condition. Got them for only $30!!!
As soon as I knew they were mine, I ordered my E-AutoWorks Headlight Harness.
Now all I need to do is choose a set of bulbs for these in the mean time. I'm going to hold off on installing everything until I have all parts in hand.
It should make for one stunning before/after shot.
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/5525/h4030411.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/h4030411.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:52 PM
MARCH 2011:
Finally received my E-AutoWorks Headlight Harness, So it was time to buy some bulbs and install my upgrades...
http://img858.imageshack.us/img858/4859/h4install031011003.jpg (http://img858.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011003.jpg/)

Upon pulling the harness out and inspecting it, i noticed something I thought might pose a problem in the future. The plug ends (connector) for the lights, were not sealed up, and the contacts, although locked into the connector body, seemed to be a bit loose, and not protected at all from possible shorts to the body, or the elements.
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/4127/h4install031011006.jpg (http://img847.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011006.jpg/)

So i did two things: i secured the wires together with a zip tie, close to the connector body, and then wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape, sealing off the exposed portion of the connector.
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/180/h4install031011007.jpg (http://img849.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011007.jpg/)
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/2606/h4install031011009.jpg (http://img855.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011009.jpg/)

I did the same thing to the one factory harness plug that wouldn't be connected to the new harness. (the harness uses only on of the plugs for a signal to trigger the relays.)
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/6121/h4install031011010.jpg (http://img641.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011010.jpg/)

After that I routed the harness, i decided to go under the radiator vs. over the top, because it seemed easier to get the ends up thru the various cavities and openings than to do it from the top. I didn't get any pictures of this part of it all, but the main part of the harness went thru the opening in the fender just to the side of the battery and got routed down behind the passenger side light then into the space behind the bumper, under the radiator. One plug (on the longest part of the harness) goes to the driver's side, and two plugs go to the passenger side. One for the new light and one to plug into the old factory harness end to use as a trigger source. Here we see the the two harness' plugged into one another, and the one new pigtail for the new light:
http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/849/h4install031011011.jpg (http://img861.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011011.jpg/)

I didn't get any pics of the electrical connections at the battery, as that's pretty self explanatory. I did however fuse the positive side of the harness as a safety precaution, it does NOT come fused from E-AutoWorks.
Next up was to install the bulbs into the new housings. I went with PIAA'S "Intense White" H4's (p/n: 10904) http://www.piaa.com/Bulbs/Bulbs-H4.html rated at 60/55w but have the output of 135/125w at 4100k in the color spectrum. I went with these because of their output, reviews, reputation, and the fact that they don't have ANY hint of blue in the light.
(I cant stand the douche-bags with purple headlights)
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/8879/h4install031011002.jpg (http://img846.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011002.jpg/)

Easy enough to put into the housings, REMEMBER: DONT TOUCH THE BULB GLASS!!
First I needed to pull off the rubber "doughnut" seal on the back:
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/3049/h4install031011018.jpg (http://img850.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011018.jpg/)

Then just flipped back the lock spring on the housing, and line the bulb's three tabs up with the corresponding indents in the housing for proper alignment, and ensure they're seated securely:
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/9631/h4install031011020.jpg (http://img534.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011020.jpg/)

Replace the rubber doughnut seal making sure its tight up against the back of the housing:
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/1982/h4install031011022.jpg (http://img710.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011022.jpg/)

And these are ready to go in:
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5193/h4install031011021.jpg (http://img146.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011021.jpg/)

The difference was huge! The beam pattern is quite different, not to mention the amount and color of light that comes out.
Old:
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/6887/h4install031011012.jpg (http://img851.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011012.jpg/)

New:
http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/8601/h4install031011024.jpg (http://img859.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011024.jpg/)

And here's a shot of the beam difference, (note; Left is old, Right is new, and the old one was only held in by one screw so it appears to be a bit high:
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/6316/h4install031011017.jpg (http://img854.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011017.jpg/)

The brights... well lets just say you could probably see them from space.This is by far one of the best mods i've done so far. I HIGHLY recommend that ANYone with a Cherokee do this as soon as possible.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 01:52 PM
APRIL 2011:
I ended up scoring again on Craigslist. Couldn't pass up the deal.... a Rubicon Express Hack 'n' Tap SYE kit. COMPLETE.
The guy had it sitting around, (noticeable by the stains on the box) never put it in, and has long since sold his XJ.
He no longer had a need for it, and i was the first to call dibbs!:2thumbsup: ...So i'll be tracking down the appropriate front drive shaft out of another Cherokee, to tide me over until I get a Tom Woods.
STAY TUNED:::: I'm planning on doing a full pic heavy write up, and will even shoot some video on the install of this, when the time comes.
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/1812/sye032811003.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/i/sye032811003.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:23 PM
APRIL 2011:
Ok, so as you saw above, I already had my H'n'T SYE.
I grabbed the necessary Spicer Flange (p/n: 211229x) for the install,
And three Spicer 1310 U-joints to rebuild the donor shaft.
Also picked up a front drive line today at the junk yard, pulled it out of a 93 ZJ.
Going to have it balanced in the next couple weeks.
Here's the goods:
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/6585/driveline040911002.jpg (http://img543.imageshack.us/i/driveline040911002.jpg/)
Already talked to the drive line shop and got a quote. $77 with about a 3-4 turn around. Their work looks to be pretty good, and they're a national company.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:24 PM
APRIL 2011:
Remember that rear bumper I picked up from a a guy off of Craigslist that didn't fit right?. I got a wild hair, and decided to modify the mounts to MAKE it fit. (sorry no pics of this) I figured since I was going to be working on the back end of the Jeep, I might as well install the gas tank skid plate that i'd had laying around for a while too. Well I couldn't do THAT until I got a trailer hitch. So I did some shopping around, and some good 'ol fashioned haggling, and picked up a brand new Class III trailer hitch from U-Haul, they listed it for 139.95...I got it for an even 115.00!! So along with the JCR nut strips I received a couple months ago it ALL went in.
....Of course not with out the standard breaking bolts (off of the old nut strip that the OEM heat shield was mounted to), a LOT of PB Blaster, and a little sheet metal modification:
http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/1990/imag0007md.jpg (http://img580.imageshack.us/i/imag0007md.jpg/)
MODIFIED:
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/8766/imag0009de.jpg (http://img843.imageshack.us/i/imag0009de.jpg/)

After all was said and done, (and about 8 hours later...) here is the new backside of the XJ:
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/9892/bumperhitchskidplate042.jpg (http://img607.imageshack.us/i/bumperhitchskidplate042.jpg/)

Gotta do something about those rear quarter panels... maybe JCR corners?

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/9892/bumperhitchskidplate042.jpg (http://img694.imageshack.us/i/bumperhitchskidplate042.jpg/)

Here's the underside, all armored up!:
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/9892/bumperhitchskidplate042.jpg (http://img850.imageshack.us/i/bumperhitchskidplate042.jpg/)
I'm going to take a heat gun to that U-haul sticker and remove it eventually.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:24 PM
MAY 2011:
The objective: To fabricate and install a set of Home Made Adjustable Sway Bar Disconnects.

Note: This specific set up, parts list, and installation process will only work for those with aftermarket sway bar links or links that have the bracket on the upper mount.... those with out will have additional fabrication involved.

What I was going for was something with a few less parts, very strong, and easy to use, but the bottom line, was well, the bottom line. I wanted to make sure that the cost of doing this was going to be way cheap, but not so low that I'd end up with an inferior product.
The parts list is as follows:
(4x) 1/2-20 Female Rod Ends - McMaster-Carr p/n: 44447231 ___$6.98 ea.
(1x) 1/2-20 all thread x 12" Long ___$5.98 (napa auto parts)
(4x) 1/2-20 Hex Nuts ___$0.58 ea. (napa auto parts)
(4x) 1/2-13 x3" Hex Bolt ___$1.78 ea. (home depot)
(6x) 1/2-13 Hex Nuts ___$0.52 ea.(home depot)
(2x) 1/2-13 Wing Nut ___$.098 ea (home depot)
(8x) 1/2" Flat Washers ___$.078 ea. (home depot)

Grand Total: $54.66

Here's how it all went together, and the install process:
First I took off the existing sway bar links. (these are what came with my ProComp lift kit)
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/8/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

Once those are out of the way, it was on to the most difficult of the whole process, getting the OEM axle mount (T-55 Stud) out of the tab that comes off the axle.
Here is what i'm talking about:
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

My best advice is to do the following: HEAT IT UP and I do mean TORCH it! I did this with a propane canister and a torch nozzle from Harbor Freight:
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

It was less than $15 and made things ALOT easier. Once I torched it for a good solid 5-7 minutes, I got my T-55 on the end of a breaker bar and started working it loose. It broke free and started to spin, thats when I used a 2 prong puller to "push" it thru the bracket.
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/84/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

As you can see the very end of it is a slightly larger diameter and knurled, this is what is pressed into the bracket on the axle. THIS is why they can't be just turned out. Once that was out of the way it was on to the assembly process.
The old sway bars had a bracket on the upper side that I intended to re-use. The holes in the sides were set up for smaller hardware, so those were drilled out to accommodate 1/2" hardware:
http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/859/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

Then I extracted the old metal sleeves from the inside of the sway bar link bushings. These were cut down to make the spacers.
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/709/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

The spacers are what goes in between each side of the bracket and the Heim Joint of the rod end. (You'll see what I mean here in a minute.) These sleeves are steel, so cutting them wasn't easy, they later had to be ground down to proper flatness and for fitment. I highly recommend the use of a bench grinder to do that part of it. Cutting them to the rough size you'll need (aprox. 1/2") can be done with a vice and a hack saw. The 1/2-20 allthread rod had to be cut in half as well. This gave me two 6" pieces of all thread. (duh) These will be the "Arms" of the new links. That's pretty much it for the custom fabrication part of things. Now it was time to put it all together.
Laying all the parts out (for one side) this is how it looks:
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

A close up of the rod end:
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/714/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

Here's how the upper side goes together. (note: the gaps seen here go away when it is all wrenched down, in this photo, it was just finger tight) Washers on the outside, the 1/2-13 x3" hex bolt thru the middle with the rod end in the center, sandwiched between two spacers:
http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/809/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

In my case (and I'm sure its this way on most cherokees) the mount for the sway bar on the axle is to the outside of the upper mount on the sway bar itself. Since I got the grease-able rod ends, I wanted to make sure the zirks were facing out (forward), so the offset of the mounting point for the upper bracket had to be taken into account.

Now i just put the rod ends onto the allthread. The 1/2-20 hex nuts go on first, these will act as jam nuts to prevent the rod from spinning. Once done the finished product looked like this:
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

You've seen how the upper side mounts to the sway bar, (you'll see it installed here in a minute) ...but the lower side (axle mount) is something a little different, and may end up getting changed to something else later down the road. But I went this direction because it was inexpensive, and resulted in a "clunk free" set up. One of the remaining 1/2-13 x3" hex bolt, two of the flat washers, and two of the hex nuts mount in the old stud hole on the axle bracket. Like this:
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/15/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

The lower rod end simple slides over the protruding threaded portion of the bolt, and is secured in place by the wing nut. Later I will drill a hole thru the bolt for a cotter pin, or a clevis pin to prevent the wing nut from backing off completely. The upper end mounts to the sway bar in the same fashion as the old links did, using the same hardware as the old bracket used.

Once its all fully installed it looks like this:
http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1185/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/swaybardisconnects05121.jpg/)

So far I'm very pleased with the results. I've been driving pretty much all week with the sway bar disconnected, as I was in the process of figuring out what I needed, acquiring all the necessary parts, and modifying what I already had. The difference is amazing, these preform just as good as the links I had on before, and are super quiet. No noisy clunks or rattles. I've "disco'd" them several times, and hooked 'em back up and they go on with ease.

I'm sure I could have cut corners, gone with cheaper hardware, gone with the less expensive non grease-able rod ends, but for less than 55 bucks... these seem to be one heck of a product.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:25 PM
JULY 2011: - LIFT -PHASE-2:

Scored some more parts on Craigslist, and bought some others brand new, and for a few months I had just been stock piling parts.
Here's the list:
-6" TJ Front Coil Springs
-2" Greasable Lift Shackles
-Braided Stainless Steel Extended Brake Lines
-Front Tow Hooks
-New Sway Bar Bushings
(Pics below)
__________________________________________________ _______________________________
These TJ springs were for a 6" lift, but being that the XJ front end is a bit heavier, I netted about 5" - 5 1/2" over stock after they were put in.
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/5889/parts004.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/402/parts004.jpg/)

Here's one of the OEM shackles, and one of the new.... HUGE difference.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/976/parts008a.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/121/parts008a.jpg/)
Getting the old ones out took ALOT of work.
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/5678/parts006.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/33/parts006.jpg/)
But after going thru all that I did when putting in the new leafs when I did the first phase of the lift, I was prepared.
Big breaker bars, a ton of PB Blaster, and of course, some good ol heat!
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/6562/parts007.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/parts007.jpg/)
I was able to salvage the old hardware, cleaned it real good with some oil, and a wire brush. The threads in the frame were good too, so I left those alone. A tip for anyone swapping out their shackles: THE BOLTS WILL SPIN, BUT SO WILL THE "SLEEVE" INSIDE THE BUSHING!!! Do yourself a favor, and get a set of needle nose vice grips, heat up the old bolt until the rubber starts to melt... clear it out a bit with an old flat head screw driver, and get those vice grips up onto that sleeve. Make sure you got a good bite on it too. Other wise, you'll be turning that bolt, thinking that you backing it out, when in fact all your doing is stripping the threads of the weld nut in the frame. GOOD LUCK!
Here's the new ones almost totally in.
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/1172/parts009q.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/parts009q.jpg/)
And all in.
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/2217/parts041v.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/parts041v.jpg/)
And as some of you know... once in, the exhaust has to be "modified" in order to clear. I had to hack off the tip, and re-secured the pipe to the hanger. I'll get a turn down tip to throw on here soon, but for now this works.
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/8237/parts044.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/parts044.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:25 PM
JULY 2011:
So right after I get done working on the Jeep, i'm on my way back from returning the spring compressor I rented, when all of the sudden, the Jeep just dies. All the electrical still worked, just wouldn't restart. I coasted into a parking lot, and poked around,... couldn't find the problem. Got towed back to the house, and started searching for probable causes. I did some testing, and discovered I had fuel, but no spark. Common symptom of a failed CPS (Crank Position Sensor) So I bit the bullet, and bought a Mopar CPS
(I read a lot of bad reviews, and good advice from some of the more knowledgeable Jeepers about going with "parts store brand" sensors) ...$125 later and I had myself a brand new CPS sensor to install:
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/6346/parts016.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/825/parts016.jpg/)
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/7138/parts020.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/830/parts020.jpg/)
For those of you who dont know, this part is a big pain in the A$$ to get to, having a lift, helps, and after doing some searches, i found that dropping the front diveline helps a lot too.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/8499/parts019k.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/parts019k.jpg/)

The CPS is located at about the 11-o-clock position on the backside of the bellhousing. With not a ton of room around it to work with.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/4705/parts017.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/231/parts017.jpg/)

Here's a good shot of the old one, fully saturated and soaking in PB Blaster:
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/641/parts018.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/parts018.jpg/)

Finally got the old one out:
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/3829/parts027.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/219/parts027.jpg/)

Once you have the old one out, the pig tail routes up against the firewall, and the plug is behind the throttle body, towards the very back of the fuel rail.
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/1773/parts022.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/190/parts022.jpg/)

Testing the two units with my multi-meter, I definitely got different results.
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/8969/parts026.jpg (http://imageshack.us/pho[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/830/parts026.jpg/)
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9218/parts025.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/198/parts025.jpg/)

And the old one still had some decent magnetism left to it (note the wrench hanging from the end):
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/9660/parts023.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/823/parts023.jpg/)

Putting the new one in:
http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/1103/parts028.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/parts028.jpg/)
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/9349/parts029.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/parts029.jpg/)
And here we have the brand new Mopar Crank Position Sensor all installed:
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3117/parts036.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/696/parts036.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:26 PM
After it was all hooked up I went to start the Jeep, ....only to find my problem wasn't fixed. "'D'OH" ...so I turned to my trusty Factory Service Manual, and started going thru everything, I tested the coil, the plugs, the plug wires, even went thru my alarm thinking that maybe one of the cut off relays was leaving one of the ignition wires as an open circuit (i knew better, but still had to check)... finally I figured I'd test the the Cam Position Sensor, (located inside the distributor)... upon removing the cap I noticed something odd..... the rotor had grenaded itself into three pieces!!!!
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/5720/parts031.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/parts031.jpg/)

....'can't believe I didnt check that first!!!! Its only about a year old, if that, so i just assumed it was ok....
Looks like the little plastic rivet thats supposed to hold the contact point on broke off or something, and it all just fell apart:
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/8382/parts032t.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/696/parts032t.jpg/)
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/4336/parts034.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/837/parts034.jpg/)

So Off I went back to the parts store, and picked up a new cap and rotor.
http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/8339/parts035.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/803/parts035.jpg/)

Put it all in, and of course... fired right up!:2thumbsup:
Oh well, at least the CPS is one less thing I have to worry about, and now I have a working spare, for on the trail, or if a fellow jeeper is in need.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:27 PM
JULY 2011:
I was getting things ready for a big run. Top of the list was front recovery. Installed the Rugged Ridge Front Tow Hooks today. Went in super easy, and seem pretty damn solid too.
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/1058/parts040.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/33/parts040.jpg/)

End Caps came of first:
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/8470/parts046.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/parts046.jpg/)

Then the whole bumper:
http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/619/parts047.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/838/parts047.jpg/)

The brackets lined right up.
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/89/parts053.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/parts053.jpg/)

I decided to go with some new hardware in the front, the stock "thread clip things" were falling apart and basically worthless.
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/6/parts054u.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/parts054u.jpg/)

Brackets go way back. Bolt through the frame with MASSIVE carriage bolts.
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/9738/parts055.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/715/parts055.jpg/)

Everything went back together perfect.
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1535/parts056ch.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/parts056ch.jpg/)
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/8751/parts058.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/parts058.jpg/)
http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/8739/parts057.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/parts057.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:28 PM
JULY 2011:
Taking full advantage of the storage under the rear seat. From top to bottom...
-Portable 12v air compressor (airs up a 33 from 5psi to 35psi in about 10min)
-Extra Spicer U-Joint
-Jumper Cables
-20' Tow Strap
-Tire Iron (might not be able to see it on this pic)

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1188/parts052.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/228/parts052.jpg/)

Also Took advantage of the rear storage cubby. Going to put a first aid kit in there too I think.
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/6455/parts048.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/841/parts048.jpg/)

And threw on another rear recovery point.
(i'd trust the mount of the hitch before the mount of the rear bumper if I needed a good yank out of a hole)
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4245/parts049.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/parts049.jpg/)
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/6774/parts050.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/parts050.jpg/)

Up next... The Rubicon Express Braided Stainless Steel Extended Brake Lines,
And The Sway Bar Bushing Swap.
http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/4344/parts037.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/parts037.jpg/)
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/9869/parts039.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543/parts039.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:28 PM
JULY 2011:
Here I finally started in on rebuilding the donor driveshaft for the SYE install.
Picked up one of these Ball Joint/U-Joint Service tool toady to make things easy.
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/3241/image569i.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/21/image569i.jpg/)

And started in on replacing all the old U-joints with my new Spicer U-joints.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9306/partsp.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/partsp.jpg/)

One down, 3 to go.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:29 PM
AUGUST 2011: - SYE INSTALL -

The new rear drive shaft had been modified, and the assembly all put together using all new Spicer U-joints.
As you recall the new rear drive line was actually an old front drive line from a 94 ZJ. Along with the new spicer U-joints, and the required CV Flange I had all my parts to go along with the R.E. Hack 'n' Tap SYE.
The stock set up was the only thing in my way... well almost the only thing.
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4159/drivelinesye004.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/drivelinesye004.jpg/)
Once that was out, it was on to the "hacking" part of the SYE.
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/1552/drivelinesye005.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/535/drivelinesye005.jpg/)
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/6359/drivelinesye006.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/683/drivelinesye006.jpg/)
I measured (twice) and marked where I needed to cut. Leaving the appropriate 1.25" of splined shaft left.
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/642/drivelinesye008.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/508/drivelinesye008.jpg/)
Then the shaft was trimmed.
I had video of the second and third cutting sessions of the shaft - but for some reason I cant get the vids to post. Each session was about a minute long and five minutes in between to allow for cooling.
The transmission was in reverse, the transfer case in 2WD, and the engine running during each cut.

I drilled the shaft using the supplied bit, (working my way up to it, starting with an 1/8" then, 1/4" and so on) until the large 21/64" on the final drill.
What I learned in doing this is that even with a cold wet rag wrapped around the shaft, heat can build up (substantially), and over the course of the work being done.... this "heat treats" the steel, causing it to harden. I also learned that these shafts are "Case Hardened" meaning that the outside is harder than the center. I went thru several bits getting that hole drilled, but finally got it.
Then it was time to tap it. I used the supplied tap, and generous amounts of cutting oil.
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/5596/drivelinesye011.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/20/drivelinesye011.jpg/)
I was about 3/4 of the way done when the worst happened:
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/5167/drivelinesye014.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/849/drivelinesye014.jpg/)
That's right, the tap broke clean off.
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/4008/drivelinesye013.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/840/drivelinesye013.jpg/)
I can't fully describe the feeling I had when I heard that *SNAP* and the base of the tap and the handle dropped. Nor can I begin to list the endless string of expletives that came out of my mouth. Those pics above are taken AFTER I tried every method under the sun to remove said broken tap. I tried drilling, I tried a carbide ball end mill, I even tried a Walton Tap Extractor, with no luck. In fact the tap extractor's splines even broke off in there. I only had one option left... replace it.
So I dropped the case, split it open, removed the main shaft, got a different one to swap it out, and started in on the modification of it.
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/8615/070811183401.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/070811183401.jpg/)
The problem was... when I went to put it in, I noticed that the journals were slightly different. So the 4 hours in the machine shop at work spent modifying it was all for nothing. Found out the shaft I picked up was out of a 249, not a 242. No way of telling they're different until you get it stripped down. The guy was cool though (thanks a million Mudb8) and found me one for a 242, which I took back to the shop at work and started in on the mods.
Here it is on the lathe.
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/4179/070811185200.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/94/070811185200.jpg/)
Getting the drill and tap absolutely centered on the shaft while it's still in the vehicle is not as easy as some say. The lathe made easy work of it, and I shaved the time down to 2 hours on the second go around. The results were absolute perfection.

So with the case split and the new shaft modified, it was all ready to go back together.
Here's a shot of the case open:
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9805/drivelinesye012a.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/drivelinesye012a.jpg/)
And all put back together and ready to go back into the Jeep:
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/7058/drivelinesye017.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/607/drivelinesye017.jpg/)
And all installed with the new flange on:
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2306/drivelinesye018.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/193/drivelinesye018.jpg/)
There was an issue getting the new Rear Output Shaft Seal put on,
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/7514/91723.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/91723.jpg/)
It rolled just slightly. Right where the groove is for the tension spring... Causing a nasty leak. Those seals are EXTREMELY finicky, the slightest of imperfections and they'll leak. It took me three tries to get it right.
>
Here's a tip for putting them on: Wrap the C-clip journals with electrical tape. Go all the way down to the point on the shaft where the seal will seat. Start down towards the case, and wrap your way up to the end of the shaft, this will allow you to unravel it all after the seal is installed. Use an insane amount of grease and lube up the shaft, watch the edges of the cut splines as you slide the seal on, they can nick the inside diameter of that seal. Rotate the seal as you put it on and it will seat perfectly.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:29 PM
AUGUST 2011: - SYE INSTALL CON'T: -
I went to put in the new drive shaft.
As I mentioned before, it was a front shaft from a 94 ZJ. I cleaned it up, painted it, and put in all new sealed Spicer U-Joints.
Here it is after I cleaned it all up, and before I painted it.
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/8722/drivelinesye001.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/drivelinesye001.jpg/)

After the pint and before the re-assembly:
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5034/drivelinesye002.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/217/drivelinesye002.jpg/)
And here it is with the new U-joints and the Double Cardan Joint put in:
http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/4576/drivelinesye003.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/814/drivelinesye003.jpg/)

So when I went to put it in, I realized that my measurements (from mocking it up on my workbench) had been off. The new shaft assembly ended up being 1.75" too long.
Here's the new shaft, and the old side by side:
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8402/drivelinesye007.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/31/drivelinesye007.jpg/)

I got hooked up (threw Mudb8 - thanks again man!) with a local guy who does FANTASTIC drive line work out of his garage. He was a former drive line tech, and was fully equipped with a couple of massive lathes. He double checked my measurements, took my drive line, shortened it, balanced it, and even threw on another coat of paint. All for the same price as some of the other shops around here charge for a balancing alone. Plus got it back to me in one day!! IF you need any work, and are in my area, PM me, and I'll get you in touch with him. (Thanks Brian - you're work is second to none!)
Now that I have my shaft back, and its the proper length, I put it in.
Went in like a dream. Everything lined up right, and it looks great too.
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/221/drivelinesye021.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/drivelinesye021.jpg/)

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/4189/drivelinesye019.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/drivelinesye019.jpg/)

Some people aren't big fans of the Hack 'n' Tap SYE. I prob wouldn't use this kind of set up for competition rock crawling. But for the average daily driver/weekend wheeler, this set up works just fine. I went for a weekend long wheeling trip with Jolly Jeepers, for their annual "Back to Basics" run, which ended up being anything but. I was running with wranglers, and CJ's, most of which were locked front and rear, ALL of which were running 35's or bigger tires, (only one had 33's) and I managed to keep up for the most part. (needed a tug once on the first day, and a winching once on the second day.) It rained over 3/4" the first night, and never really let up. It was crazy muddy on the trails, insanely slippery, and hard to get any traction. I really put my rig to the test, and really put this SYE thru its paces. Everything held up just fine.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:30 PM
AUGUST 2012:
That weekend wheeling trip with the Jolly Jeepers lead to two small bits of damage.
The first was a rock that came out and took a bite out of my rim (aka "rock-of-doom" on Firebreak-5):
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/7628/071811143200.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/071811143200.jpg/)
Nothing I can do about that. I do have a matching spare that I'm going to swap over, so at least I'll have four good rims back under me. As for the damaged one, i'll prob scrap it, or hold on to it, just in case some real damage occurs to one of the other ones.
The second bit of carnage was my rear diff. The rocks were out to get me that weekend.
The Chrysler 8.25 held up well, and after sliding right onto a rock, it only bent the cover's lip up a little bit:
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/4765/reardiffcover003.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/545/reardiffcover003.jpg/)
http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/9278/reardiffcover002.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/542/reardiffcover002.jpg/)

I did try to fix it up. Hammered the lip back as best I could, and Filled in the gap with RTV.
http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/7617/reardiffcover001.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/853/reardiffcover001.jpg/)

It didn't work as well as I had hoped. It did slow the leak quite a bit, but was by no means a permanent fix.
My only option was to replace it. So I picked up something that should turn out to be a bit better than stock:
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/794/reardiffcover005.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/607/reardiffcover005.jpg/)

My new Solid Rear Differential Cover is BEEEEEFY! And they're easy to install.
I pulled the old cover off.......
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/4791/reardiffcover004.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/reardiffcover004.jpg/)
....cleaned up the mating surface real good, and layed a bead of RTV down before putting on the new cover. I really REALLY wish I could've thrown a locker into that carrier while I was at this point, but the budget just doesn't cut it right now for that kind of upgrade.
The new cover went on, but not without difficulty. The Chrysler 8.25 Cover from Solid is a fairly new model for them, and from what I understand, hasn't been out on the market for all that long. What MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE showed me, was that the holes did not line up perfectly. It DID go on, but it was VERY hard to get lined up, and in fact I ended up having to re-use some of the old hardware, because for some reason the new Socket Head Cap Screws that were provided did not want to start right. If I was to do it all over again, I would have reamed out the holes in the cover by another 1/16" or so. giving me a little more room to get everything lined up perfectly.
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/1322/reardiffcover006.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/195/reardiffcover006.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:31 PM
A while back I was under the Jeep and noticed a big A$$ dent in my down pipe. That's the part after the header, but before the Cat.
Not sure how it got there, or when it happened, and cant remember if it was there from the previous owner or not. Either way... it was a massive restriction and had to be dealt with.
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/733/063011172900.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/717/063011172900.jpg/)
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/4583/063011172901.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/97/063011172901.jpg/)

Those pics were taken the day it got swapped out (6/30/2011) - just kept forgetting to post it up. The muffler shop around the way ended up cutting that whole section out, (thats what you see in the pics) and bending up a whole new piece from scratch, and welding it in, including a new bung hole for the o2 sensor. They also told me that I'll need to replace my catalytic converter real soon, as the one that's in there is likely the original. Not sure the direction i'm going to go with that, whether it'll be a high flow, or a direct OE replacement.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:31 PM
SEPTEMBER 2011:
So I finally got around to installing the new sway bar bushing kit that i had laying around for months. And since the kit came with more than just the frame bushings, I decided to make some modifications/ upgrades to the home brew dico's that I made a while back. They've been working great, but sometimes they'd give me a little "clunk" over potholes or going over speed bumps. So here's how it went:
First some shots of the old set up:
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/8743/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/109/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg/)

As you can see the frame bushings were well worn out:
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/8743/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg/)

Here it is (sway bars too) completely pulled out:
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/8743/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/849/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg/)

I decided once it was out to clean it all up and give it a fresh coat of paint too:
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/8743/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg/)

Here is the old worn out fame side bushings compared to the new Energy Suspension ones:
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/8743/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/190/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg/)

So what I decided to do was to put part of the bushing kit in between the disconnects and sway bar itself, in hopes of dampening some of the vibrations and bumps that are being transferred directly through the frame.
Here's what the upgrade looked like once I was done:
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/8743/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/683/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg/)

As you can see I now have another bushing where there was none before:
http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/8743/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg/)

Here it is all installed:
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/8743/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/198/swaybarbushingupgrade00.jpg/)

And as you can see.... no more gap between the bushing and the sway bar:
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/3882/swaybarbushingupgrade01.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/swaybarbushingupgrade01.jpg/)

They were doing some paving on some of the roads around my house, and the pavement was pretty rough and beat up. On the test drive I immediately noticed a huge difference. Going over some railroad tracks, no more clunks! Going over some pot holes and the big speed bumps in my neighborhood.... no more bumps... Bottom line, I would recommend this kit to anyone, especially if you've got a set of home brew quick disconnects. At $30..... not a bad investment at all.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:32 PM
OCTOBER 2011:
Suffered some minor carnage on the infamous Firebreak-5 (again) up in the Tillamook State Forest on the last run. Popped a pin hole sized leak in my power steering pressure line....the smallest of holes was just spewing steering fluid all over my exhaust manifold. Awesome! ...man that stuff stinks when it burns.
So i pulled the air box out and got to work with some electrical tape for a quick trailside repair.
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3631/brownscamp1008201110.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/brownscamp1008201110.jpg/)
In all my angst and haste, I forgot to snap a pic of the macguyver style fix-up, plus I had some jerk-wads in their nearly stock toyotas dragging them selves thru this black diamond trail I was on with nothing but poor spotting and skinny pedal.... I must've taken at least 6 clods of dirt to the side of my dome from them spinning tires so much.
:thumbup: good job guys!-you made it! <sense the sarcasm> (ugh...some people's children, i swear) ok...i'm done (for now) I swear.
The following morning I noticed a decent clunky-rattle coming from under the floor boards. After a bunch of research and strong arm from a buddy under the jeep, I narrowed it down to the transmission mount. So I picked up a new tranny mount, and a new power steering pressure line. Pretty inexpensive parts I must say, less than $40 out the door.
Here's the old mount:
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/4625/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/403/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg/)

and a closer look... looks a little worn/chapped/cracked to me:
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/4625/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/97/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg/)

And oh!....Whats This?!?!.... I think I found the ACTUAL source of my rattles:
http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/4625/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg/)

Yup a loose exhaust hanger. I dragged pretty good a couple times on the last wheeling run... a rock must've grabbed the exhaust somewhere and tugged enough to pull that free.
Well no harm in putting in the new mount anyways, it DID look to be time for a replacement regardless. Crossmember out:
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/4625/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg/)

And new unit all in place:
http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/4625/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg/)

If your old trans mount looked ANYthing like mine did I would HIGHLY recommend going out and spending the 20-30 bucks for a new one... super easy to put in, and it returned a ton of lost torque I never knew was gone. Instant "seat of your pants" difference in the feel of the jeep's first few hundred RPM's, much more solid.

Got the new power steering pressure line in too:
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/4625/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/841/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg/)
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/4625/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/3/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg/)

THIS fitting was a MASSIVE PAIN IN MY A$$!!!!
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/4625/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/14/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg/)

(your looking at the pressure line into the steering box -top of the picture) - It would not thread for the life of me, there's barely enough room just to get it seated let alone for a wrench to get in there, i ended up stripping the first few threads out on the aluminum fitting itself after a couple dozen failed attempts. I spent half the night chasing the threads back into the fitting, and finally got it in without crossthreading in the wee hours of the morning.
I also picked up some "Thermo-Steel" to attempt a hokey fix of the now expanding crack in my header.
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/6083/1mpx3as01.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/1mpx3as01.jpg/)
Noticed the leak got a little louder after the last wheeling trip. Gotta do a temp fix for now, and I hear this stuff will last a while, so I'm gonna give it a shot. In the mean time I'll be saving up for a set of APN headers or something similar (cant afford the banks or borla, etc...)
So I did my best putty job, and of course forgot to show you all what the crack looked like before hand, but if you've been around jeeps long enough, you know what it looks like.
Here's the patch (i may try to put a second coat/layer on tomorrow)
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/4625/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/254/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg/)
While I was getting all-up-in my engine compartment I noticed I may be due for some motor mounts too...wouldn't hurt right>!
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/4625/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/4/transmountpwsteeringhea.jpg/)

You guys may be seeing some Brown Dog Motor Mounts in here soon. But first, I'm going to swap out the upstream o2 sensor, and put in a new Catalytic converter... that's top of the list right now.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:33 PM
CHRISTMAS 2012:
Christmas has came and gone, and under the tree I found no Jeep parts from Santa, I did however get a massive addition to the tool box courtesy of a very loving girlfriend:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/255pc-toolset.jpg
CRAFTSMAN FTMFW!!!
My old sockets were, ...well, old, and in in need of an upgrade, they've served their purpose well, and will now be dedicated to the on-trail tool kit.
And as many Oregon Jeepers who have had your rig in my garage will know, this 255pc mechanics set will be put to good use.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:33 PM
JANUARY 2012:
Well that's pretty much it to date. Recently I did some electrical work on the Jeep (over the last couple weeks)
I finally got around to installing some fog lights that I've had laying around for ages. Nothing fancy, but they get the job done. Put 'em on the front bumper caps, for now.
Completely rewired the stereo system, It looked like the P.O. had a drunken monkey with only two fingers and one good eye put it in.... a complete FUBAR as far as installs goes, but I got it all cleaned up and figured I'd throw an amp in the mix too. A 200w 4ch, wired up under the rear seat.
Also went and rebuilt my dimmer switch, I did a pretty lengthy/entailed write up on it here:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1077584
I had a couple instrument cluster lights go out on me recently, so I replaced ALL of them. Now it looks good as new, (however, I'm gonna do something cool soon with those in the near future - stay tuned.) http://www.jeepforum.com/ubb/sssh.gif
My rear defrost switch light went out on me too, so I took care of that as well - I did something a little different, I'll post up the pics/procedure on that here in a minute....
Also did the power window master lockout bypass trick. Now all the switches are working the way they should.
Here's a couple pics of the lights and amp:
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/723/foglightsamp002.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/59/foglightsamp002.jpg/)
(Like I said, nothing fancy, but gets the job done.) -may try to swap in a set of 100w H3's into these housings and see how they do.
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/6631/foglightsamp003.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/foglightsamp003.jpg/)

Here's the Amp, an MTX 4200X, 4ch, 200w, with built in X-overs. Front is ran 2ohm stereo to all 4 speakers, and the rear is bridged 4ohm to a single 10" sub in the back. (just for low-fill, not trying to win any DB or SPL contests here.) -that, and I wanted something that can be removed very easily for cargo room, etc.
http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/8095/foglightsamp005.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/862/foglightsamp005.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:45 PM
JANUARY 2012:
Here's the results of the illumination upgrade/fix on my rear defrost switch.
Basically a tear down of the switch, and swap of the illumination bulb for an LED...
You can find the full step-by-step write up on the process here:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=245557733#post245557733

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/1125/dashlightsswitch0120120.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/823/dashlightsswitch0120120.jpg/)


http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/1125/dashlightsswitch0120120.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/dashlightsswitch0120120.jpg/)

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/1125/dashlightsswitch0120120.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/207/dashlightsswitch0120120.jpg/)

I really like the look of this clean, white illumination, and with the resistor, its not a "Hyper-LED" look, it looks OEM, and more modern.
I'm planning on doing this to the entire dash including the heater controls,
as well as the instrument cluster in the very near future.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:47 PM
FEBRUARY 2012
Well Taxes have come back, and some of the refunds are going into the Jeep (of course)....
Here's the list:


1-ton Steering Upgrade
Adjustable Track Bar
(possibly) New Drop Pitman Arm
Rear Main Seal
New Catalytic Converter
New Exhaust Manifold/Header
Offroad Lights



I've started ordering parts, and here's whats in shipment as I write:
New Catalytic Converter: (Roughly $75 - Shipped)
http://performance-curve.com/2goerlichcatalyticconverterobdii608214-1-2.aspx
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/608396.jpg
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/thunderbolt2.jpg

New Exhaust Manifold: (Roughly $73 - Shipped)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Exhaust-Manifold-Jeep-Wrangler-99-98-97-95-94-93-92-91-Cherokee-Car-4883385-/250913149079?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999|Make%3AJeep|Model%3ACherokee&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6b96d097 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Exhaust-Manifold-Jeep-Wrangler-99-98-97-95-94-93-92-91-Cherokee-Car-4883385-/250913149079?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3ACherokee&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6b96d097)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/KGrHqRpE8Vh2ttUBPNeSP7rMQ60_12.jpg

Offroad Lights: (Roughly $41 for all 4 - Shipped)
Pin Spots (will be mounted center of roof rack)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/C8006W.jpg
Driving Beams (will be mounted outside of center on roof rack)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/C8005W.jpg
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/C8006W_schematic.jpg

That's it so far - I think I have a deal worked out to to have a completely custom fabbed steering upgrade - I MAY go OTK on this- we'll see. - If so... the whole thing will be custom - including the track bar.
The rear main seal I'll be picking up soon. (prob from the stealership)... I will of course do a full pic-heavy write up as soon as the parts come in.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:49 PM
Well parts have started rolling in, The Lights, Headers, and Cat have all arrived this week. (I'll post pics in a min....)
I also just ordered: (parts will ship out tomorrow and should be here next week)


1.00" DOM H/D Steering upgrade kit (tie rod/drag link)
Double Shear Track Bar
Steering Box Brace
Drop Pitman Arm



And I'll be picking up from NAPA tomorrow:


Felpro Two-Piece Rear Main Seal
Felpro One-Piece Oil Pan Gasket
Loctite 518



There's gonna be some serious wrenching going on in the next couple weeks,
I'll be sure to post up pics of the parts as they come in, and of course do a full write-up of the installation as it happens.
STAY TUNED!!!

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:49 PM
Pics as promised:
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/872/parts022012011.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/254/parts022012011.jpg/)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/9650/parts022012001.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/442/parts022012001.jpg/)

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/8051/parts022012003.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/parts022012003.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 02:50 PM
More Parts:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/parts.jpg
Picked up (2) two-piece Rear Main Seals (just in case I screw one up)
And a 1 piece Oil Pan Gasket.
Also some gasket maker (same as Loctite 815)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:00 PM
Last weekend didnt bode well for time in the garage to work on the Jeep.
My "hunny-do" list become 10 times longer than it should have.
So the only thing I got done was fabbing up a mounting system for the light on the rack.
I still have the exhaust work to do AND the maintenance
.... and on top of that, The rest of my parts came in today (YAY!... Birthday presents!!!) - that I bought for myself....
.... well its still cool to get a mass load of parts delivered on your birthday, even if you had to buy them yourself.
Just arrived:


1.00" DOM H/D Steering upgrade kit (tie rod/drag link)
Double Shear Track Bar
Steering Box Brace
Drop Pitman Arm

I'll post pics of all the new parts, as well as my install of the lights later tonight.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:02 PM
MARCH 2012
I know I'm a couple/few days behind on this, but here's the new parts for the steering upgrade. I haven't yet gotten to the install, so for now, these are just sitting in my spare room taunting me:
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/7113/steeringq.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/steeringq.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:03 PM
MARCH 2012
So i was trying to figure out how and where to mount the lights on the rack.
Since the rack I have on there isn't the quintessential "offroad rack" my mounting solutions were kind of limited. As i'm a cheap bastard, I didnt want to shell out $20-30 for each mount (like the KC bar clamp style.) So I was going to fab something up. I had initially thought about tabs to weld on, but I wanted something that gave me a little adjustability/flexibility.
now as far as position goes....The easiest was to go above the rack (on top) ...these are just mocked in place in this pic:
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/646/parts022012007.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/parts022012007.jpg/)

But I wanted a little more lower profile, and still wanted to be able to pull into the garage. So off of the lower bar was where I had decided where my my mounting position was going to be. Something like this:
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/2872/parts022012010.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/parts022012010.jpg/)

I did a ton of searching online, and around various forums, and actually found a couple different ideas from a couple different places, and combined them to make what I used.
Some stainless hardware, 3/4" conduit clamps, and some drilled/galvanized angle stock:
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/2648/racklights.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/190/racklights.jpg/)

The conduit clamps were used to mount the angle stock onto the rack itself, and the angle stock is where the lights would mount to.
Here's how it all went together, and the process of the installation:
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/313/racklights6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/705/racklights6.jpg/)
http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/1074/racklights7.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/692/racklights7.jpg/)

Here's a little closer shot of how the conduit clamps work with the rack and a more side profile of the assembly:
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/7715/racklights5.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/racklights5.jpg/)
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6307/racklights4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/39/racklights4.jpg/)

I mocked together the whole assembly. lights and all for a test fit:
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/641/racklights8.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/racklights8.jpg/)
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/4166/racklights11.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/27/racklights11.jpg/)

If you decide to use something like this for yourself, here's a tip: Chose a smaller conduit clamp than the diameter of the bar your mounting to is. For instance (like mine) if your bar is 1.00" in diameter, use a 3/4" conduit clamp. I had made the mistake of choosing a 1" clamp initially, and it didn't work out... just didn't have enough "bite" to hold things in place without rotating around the bar.

And since i'm not real big into "bling" I didnt want all that flashy metal up on top of my rack, so I painted as much of it as i could flat black. Here is the clamps, the light mounts and the angle stock all painted up:
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/5621/racklights20.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/racklights20.jpg/)
I mock installed it (again) without the lights to make sure where my final mounting position was going to be, and started clamping/tightening everything down.
http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/2773/racklights22.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/542/racklights22.jpg/)

At this point I mounted the lights and started trying to figure out how I was going to get my wires into the inside. I read countless threads on this, and the only real clean installs were guys who drilled thru the roof... not my ideal choice, trust me, but I didnt want to run miles of wire, and I wanted something clean, and out of the way. So I made the tough decision to drill.
...But i'll get to all that in a bit....

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:04 PM
Here's the electrical side of things:
Being a First Class MECP Certified Installer, and having worked in the mobile electronics industry for 10 years, (i've since moved on but still do side jobs) ...I have amassed a good stash of various "shop supplies" including enough wire to do just about anything:
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/4025/racklights19.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/192/racklights19.jpg/)
The switches used for this project ended up being quite a hassle... I found a set (from radio shack) that I really liked, so after going to three different stores to get the quantity I wanted (4) I started drilling my center console, well shift bezel really, to mount them up..... the problem was after doing so I realized the switches I got were 125v not 12v..... major fail..... so three trips, and two different switch choices later, I finally got some that worked for the location, the mounting pattern, and that had the look that I wanted:
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/5263/racklights33.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/racklights33.jpg/)
I then wired all the switches (shown) and relays (not shown) up all nice and clean.
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/2217/racklights34.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/190/racklights34.jpg/)

Loomed up the new harness to keep it clean:
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/9743/racklights35.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/535/racklights35.jpg/)

The main supply from the battery comprised of (2) 10awg ATC Fuse holders, (loaded with 20a fuses) then strung with 12awg wire to the relays. Each of these feeds one pair of lights on the rack.
(i'll clean this up one of these days I swear)
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/1552/misc042.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/misc042.jpg/)

The low voltage supply from the switches was pulled directly from the ignition, and was fused as well. Since this line only feeds enough voltage to trigger the relays, and to power the LED indicators on the switches, It didn't need much for protection.
The four switches are laid out as individual circuits, but share common ground and power supply. The relays for the lights have their own power supply, and share a ground. Each switch provides its own trigger for each circuit.
From top to bottom I have them like this:


Fog Lights (already installed - just switched the switches)
Rock Lights (future install)
Pin Spots (center on rack)
Driving Lights (outsides on rack)


Once the switch panel was all wired up and the wires loomed and routed to their destination, It was time to put it back together. I found that this tab (pic below) was in the way of the wires coming off of the lower switch.
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/4000/racklights37.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/racklights37.jpg/)

So I hacked it off.
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/2416/racklights38.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/racklights38.jpg/)
This tab is to locate the indicator panel (the clear plastic tab that comes off of the shift selector indicator. But on the right side (the tab that was in the way) is for right hand drive vehicles, and in no way played any role in locating or locking into position my shift bezel.
Now that it was out of the way, the bezel locked back into position perfectly, and looks great:
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/7965/racklights40.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/racklights40.jpg/)

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2738/racklights39.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/694/racklights39.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:05 PM
Now that interior side of things was done it was time to move onto the lights themselves.
So as I stated earlier, I made the choice to drill, I chose a location that was easy to get to, near the "B" pillar (my choice for the route of the wires to go from the top of the vehicle to the bottom) and that was going to be more or less "hidden" from view, and and various branches or other things that may want to snag the loom. I picked a spot, drilled a pilot hole, then hogged it out from below with my uni-bit.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1283/racklights25.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/201/racklights25.jpg/)

Yes this is light shining thru the hole in my otherwise perfect roof:
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1740/racklights24.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/141/racklights24.jpg/)

I primered the hole with black paint:
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/1152/racklights26.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/213/racklights26.jpg/)

And pulled out the necessary supplies to protect the wires from being cut, and the headliner/interior from water leakage:
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/4858/racklights21.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/racklights21.jpg/)

Here you can see the grommet installed before getting the wires and sealed up with the RTV.
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/7281/racklights27.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/607/racklights27.jpg/)

All four lights share the same ground, which is right at the top of the "B" pillar on the inside where a bracket is to support the sunroof. The lights are paired, thus only three wires total (the same 12awg wire you saw above) are coming thru the roof. One ground, and one trigger for each pair. All the wires are routed and loomed to keep things nice and tidy, and protected from the elements (more or less)
Here's how things looked when done:
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/4522/racklights29.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/52/racklights29.jpg/)

I left myself some extra wire on top, just in case I changed my rack, or relocated it, or if the position of the lights ever changed. It's looped up, and tied out of the way, but there in case I ever need it:
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/3677/racklights28.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/racklights28.jpg/)

Here you can see the final routing and protrusion thru the roof line:
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/1074/racklights31.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/190/racklights31.jpg/)

A little closer look at the sealing job:
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/299/racklights30.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/195/racklights30.jpg/)
The RTV was used inside the grommet around the wires, and both on the exterior, as well as on the inside, around the grommet, and the wires. This has been tested with several days of good rain, and at speed in the rain thru days of commuting, and not a drop had dripped. I'm fully confident that this will remain sealed for quite some time.
Here's a poser shot, during the day, and before everything was all aimed up.
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/3079/misc046.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/198/misc046.jpg/)
All in all I'm quite happy with the results, the lights look like they belong, tie-in well with the vehicle, and perform well. They're plenty bright on the street, and I'm sure will light up the trail just fine.
Let me know what you think!

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:06 PM
MARCH 2012
So I've been slacking greatly on the updates. In the last several weeks, I've managed to install the new header, the new cat, and the new steering upgrade. The work is done, and the pics have been taken, but I havent gotten around to getting everything posted up.... so here's the photo's and write ups... (finally)
>
Pretty much half of the engine compartment has to come out in order to get the exhaust manifold off. The intake manifold and everything thats on it. The power steering pump, fuel rail, intake, the whole nine yards.
>
First to come out was the air box and intake tube.
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/2651/header001q.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/718/header001q.jpg/)

The throttle linkage and bracket comes off as well:
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/6151/header002.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/252/header002.jpg/)

All the various breather lines, hoses, and vacuum lines come off:
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/8080/header003.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/252/header003.jpg/)

As well as the fuel rail:
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/7138/header004.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/header004.jpg/)

The power steering pump has to come off as well, the mount for this is part of the intake manifold. But first you have to loosen up the belt. On mine this is done by relieving the tension on the tensioner pulley by turning the bolt that moves it up and down. (seen to left side of the photo)
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5016/header005.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/254/header005.jpg/)

Loosen up all the bolts and pull them out thru the pulley.
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/2555/header008.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/441/header008.jpg/)

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/3849/header009.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/header009.jpg/)

Once all the bolts are out the pump can be removed,
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/4195/header010.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543/header010.jpg/)

and set aside (the former location of the air box makes a good shelf)
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/4195/header010.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543/header010.jpg/)

Now you have access to all the bolts, both upper and the PITA lowers to get the intake manifold off:
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1262/header012.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/254/header012.jpg/)

Once off you get to see just how nasty the inside of these manifolds can get:
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/9618/header013.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/252/header013.jpg/)

The build up was pretty good, I may just see if some seafoam will help knock this down a bit.
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/6830/header014.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/header014.jpg/)

I did end up at the end cleaning this up a little, but I didnt want to spend all day wiping tar.
The exhaust manifold was ready to come out, just needed to loosen up the bolts down at the down tube flange.
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/9085/header016l.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/header016l.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:07 PM
While I was down there I got a good look at how my repair job had cracked open:
http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/3412/header017.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/header017.jpg/)

Finally out and on the ground, and getting a piece of my mind:
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/2321/header018.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/header018.jpg/)

Since I had it out I gave it good looking over and realized just how bad the leak was....SEVERAL cracks were found.
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5694/header019.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/210/header019.jpg/)

And the main crack was almost completely around and thru the whole header pipe:
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/530/header020n.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/header020n.jpg/)

Now it was time to address the engine:
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/1570/header021.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/20/header021.jpg/)

All the old gasket material, build up, grime and gunk was all scraped off. I used some scotchbrite to get the surface all nice and smooth. I also wiped some of the goop on the ports out a little bit...but again, I wasnt wanting to spend all day at it.
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/5679/header022.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/header022.jpg/)

The new manifold vs. the old:
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/3711/header023.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/header023.jpg/)

Back when I rebuilt my old motorcycle engine, a friend gave me a tip about gasket treatment. A good coating of copper spray helps keep a gasket seated, gives it a bit more durability, and life. It dries a bit tacky, and just adds to the sealing capacity of the gasket.
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/1610/header024.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/header024.jpg/)

The new header has a gasket of its own for the down pipe joint. This thing resembles a steel wool doughnut mated with tin foil.
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/3268/header027.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/687/header027.jpg/)

Kind of a pain in the butt to get on and seated all the way, but some whacks with the dead blow got it to seat right:
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/1589/header028.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/821/header028.jpg/)

The new manifold was placed on, and a couple of the bolts put into place. The intake manifold was placed back on, ensuring that it was seated on the location pegs nice and flush. Then all the bolts were torqued down in order, and to spec according to the FSM.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9928/header029.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/header029.jpg/)

After everything was all put back on and hooked back up, I fired it up..... It was weird hearing the jeep purr and not clack about.... the idle had smoothed out a bit and there was no noise coming from the engine bay anymore.
I'm very happy with my choice, and after several weeks, its holding up just fine, and still no leaks.
This job took me several hours, I only had a couple snags, one was the fuel rail, and the other was the lower bolts on the manifold...they're just kinda hard to get to. Other than that, this job was actually pretty easy.... just time consuming.
>
Next up is going to be my write up on the steering upgrade. Stay tuned!

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:47 PM
MARCH 2012
Ok so after a lot delay, here's the write-up on the Crown HD Steering upgrade that was done earlier this month....

First to get tackled was the track bar. This was long overdue, as my axle has not been centered for a little while now. Since the kit I ordered came with a ne double shear mount, the old frame side mount was first to come off:
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/4900/steeringupgrade005.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/steeringupgrade005.jpg/)

There's four bolts that hold this thing onto the frame, two on the side of the frame rail, accessible from inside the wheel well:
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/4900/steeringupgrade005.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/steeringupgrade005.jpg/)

And two found on the underside of the frame rail. Here you can see I have the forward most bolt removed, the weld nut holding it in snapped off, and luckily I was able to still get the bolt out by using some vice grips on the broken nut.
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/1889/steeringupgrade007.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/19/steeringupgrade007.jpg/)

The rear most bolt has a weld nut as well, and on my XJ, it was stubborn as all hell...even after a good soaking in PB Blaster. So out came the heat....
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/5315/steeringupgrade008.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/715/steeringupgrade008.jpg/)

And even more heat....(got this thing red hot and it STILL wouldn't budge)
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/4396/steeringupgrade009.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/825/steeringupgrade009.jpg/)

After a lot of swearing, another round of heat blasting, and back breaking force with my biggest breaker bar, it finally came out:
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/4396/steeringupgrade009.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/825/steeringupgrade009.jpg/)

Here it is completely loose from the frame side, all that was left was the axle side mount, and it was ready to come out:
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/6933/steeringupgrade012.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/823/steeringupgrade012.jpg/)

Here's the old vs. new:
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/8269/steeringupgrade013.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/841/steeringupgrade013.jpg/)

The frame mount and he track bar itself are SO much more beefy than the stock... plus I'm gaining adjustability.
The bar is not only a larger diameter, its wall thickness is double over the stock (iirc)
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3929/steeringupgrade014.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/689/steeringupgrade014.jpg/)

The frame mount was first to go in, and although the kit didnt come with new mounting hardware, I knew I couldn't re-use the old bolts, (at least on the lower side) ...good thing I had some extra hardware laying around. Here's a lesson as to why its a good idea to always have some extra nuts and bolts laying around:
http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/4674/steeringupgrade016.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/813/steeringupgrade016.jpg/)

Since I was going with some new hardware, I wanted to eliminate the one remaining weld nut, so I put a cut off wheel on the grinder and went to work... off it came!
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/91/steeringupgrade018.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/steeringupgrade018.jpg/)

Here you can see the new double shear track bar bracket in place with the new lower hardware:
http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/3219/steeringupgrade019.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/864/steeringupgrade019.jpg/)

Its easy to adjust the track of the front axle. Since the track bar was off you can bounce the suspension, and wiggle the steering wheel back and forth to self center the axle under the body. Once I had it pretty close, I mocked up the frame stiffener. (we'll get back to that in a min.)
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/7936/steeringupgrade020.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/steeringupgrade020.jpg/)

At this point it was time for a beverage break, and since it was St. Patrick's Day, I figured this was a fitting refreshment:
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/2748/steeringupgrade025.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/441/steeringupgrade025.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:48 PM
Ok back to work, the drag link and tie rod was next to come out. The steering stabilizer was disconnected from the drag link and was loosely left in place just to help keep things in place. Removing the drag link from the pitman arm was a massive pain in the ***. Heat, prying, and finally a puller (seen on the floor) finally paid off.
http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/3250/steeringupgrade026.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/steeringupgrade026.jpg/)

The tie rod came off real easy, and the whole thing was brought out as one assembly. Here's the old vs. the new:
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/66/steeringupgrade027.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/39/steeringupgrade027.jpg/)

I know it doesn't look like much of an upgrade, but remember, this is a solid tube, and the rod ends are much, much more beefy:
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/5918/steeringupgrade028.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/steeringupgrade028.jpg/)

Once I had everything all in place, and roughly measured out to "close enough home garage alignment" specs... I noticed something that wasnt right....here's the view of where the drag link meets the tie rod looking upwards:
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/5255/steeringupgrade029.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/694/steeringupgrade029.jpg/)

From above:
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7273/steeringupgrade030.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/207/steeringupgrade030.jpg/)

And from the side:
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/854/steeringupgrade031.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/525/steeringupgrade031.jpg/)

As you can see the rod end is hitting the sway bar mount. I tried everything, from pressing/compressing the joint as much as possible.....
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/5791/steeringupgrade034.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/steeringupgrade034.jpg/)

....to even pulling out the grease zirk, and screwing in a set screw as a plug.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/9421/steeringupgrade032.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/837/steeringupgrade032.jpg/)

I finally ground the hell out of the sway bar mount and that gave me a bit more clearance....
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/5629/steeringupgrade035.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/851/steeringupgrade035.jpg/)

Here's the finished product:
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/7529/steeringupgrade036.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/846/steeringupgrade036.jpg/)

It still hits a bit, but I think once I get the drop pitman arm on, it'll lower the drag link a bit and should clear this high point of the swaybar mount, as well as correcting some of the angles.
>
Now that wasnt the only snag in this whole thing... remember that frame stiffener I briefly mentioned earlier?
Here's where it mounts on the passenger side frame rail:
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/4535/steeringupgrade022.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/steeringupgrade022.jpg/)

With it mounted at the frame, here's where it ends up at the track bar mount (where the other end is supposed to secure to)...
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/3006/steeringupgrade023.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/steeringupgrade023.jpg/)

And if its secured to the track bar mount, here's where it ends up on the frame:
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/2841/steeringupgrade021.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/401/steeringupgrade021.jpg/)

As you can see its a bit too long.... either that or my unibody is twisted/bent or otherwise not straight.... which I dont think is the case....so I'm stuck.... Not sure what to do with it at this point. Any suggestions?

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:49 PM
APRIL 2012:
Some front end maintenance was overdue, and I couldn't put it off any longer. The Front axle had been making some noise when I would turn.... pretty much anytime over 30mph and turning the wheel to the left, I would get a howl from the passenger side. I deemed it was time for some U-joints. I'm pretty sure the ones in there were the originals. And at over 200k, I'm not surprised they had started to make some noise....
Especially looking like this:
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/39/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

Too much rust for my liking. All my research made the process to do the swap seem pretty easy. Everything got a liberal soaking with PB Blaster, and I went to work...
With the tires off, and the front end jacked up an stands, everything else has to come off of the knuckles. I needed to use a screw driver stuck in the slots in the end of the rotor against the caliper as leverage to get the hub nut off. Another option would be to have someone stand on the brake pedal. Or it would probably work better if the transfer case was in 4lo, and one wheel/tire were left on, and on the ground. Since I was this far, I just went with the screw driver method. This cotter pin was going to have to eventually come out, so I knew I was also going to have to take off the wheel spacers at some point.
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

Once that was off, this nut cap and compression spring come off (dont loose these) and you can get to the 36mm nut. You'll need something like this to get it off:
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/196/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

With some good force (or an impact gun if you have one) it'll come off:
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/707/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

Now its time for the caliper to come off. Two 6-point 13mm bolts on the back hold it on:
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

Once those are out, the caliper swings off from the top:
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/192/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

You dont want to just let this hang by the brake line, so suspending it with some bungees, or a coat hanger or even some zip ties is a good idea:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

Once thats off, the rotor can come off too. It may need some persuading with a dead blow, just to loosen it up, but it should just come right off.
Next up is the thee, 12 point, 13mm bolts that hold the unit hub on. Do not attempt to use a 6pt socket or a wrench for these, you WILL screw them up.
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

Once all three bolts are out, the hub assembly is ready to come out. There are a few different ways others are taking these out of the knuckles. They're pressed in, but can come out by hammering a chisel between them and the knuckle, this will more than likely result in damaging the dust shield, but may work for some. Some people opt for a puller of some kind, but if you live in the rust belt, or your jeep came from an area near the coast or where they use salt on the roads, you may want to use this option - A three inch 3/8" extension, (a 1/2" would work well to, but I wouldn't use a 1/4" for this) placed in between the axle and the outer shaft. With the engine on, the force applied to this with the power steering is enough to pop the hub right out. Be careful though, the extension could just as easily become a projectile.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

At this point the axle shaft outer, u-joint, hub assembly, and inner shaft all come out as one. Its important to support the inner shaft as it comes out, trying to keep it as close to the middle of the tube as possible.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/3567/axlejointsunithubs04211r.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/axlejointsunithubs04211r.jpg/)
After a little while some of the diff fluid may leak out a but, but it wont be too much, especially if the axle is more or less level.

Once this is out you can separate the hub unit from the axle shaft.
The U-joints are pressed in the ears, and are locked into position with circle clips. These have to come out. A screw driver and a hammer makes this easy:
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/38/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

Once these are all out, the joint can be pressed out as any other.....
The first cap came out with a lot of resistance... this may explain some of the noise:
http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

The other cap was even more difficult, and ended up coming out like this:
http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/853/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

The rest of the job proved to be impossible. All I had was my trusty H.F. Press Tool. It worked great for the driveline, but proved to run out of leverage (without having a vice) to get he rest of the joints out in either shaft. Even with one, I think getting these out would have proven to be difficult if not impossible. I ended up having to have a fellow jeeper (two in fact) help me out, He-Man was kind enough to provide some transportation, and drove me out to Battleground to BPB's house, where he dropped what he was doing to help me out using his 20ton press, they finally came out. But it took all that thing had, plus a BFH to do it. The problem was that the force required to press the old joints out bent the ears in I think. So it was impossible to get the c-clips back on the new 5-760's I was trying to put in. We even blew one end of one of the caps off trying. So I went back home with 1.5 spicer 5-760's that didn't fit. This being my only vehicle, failure was not an option, The following morning I got a ride to the parts store, and picked up some ultra heavy duty precision u-joints, to replace the spicers, and solidified my theory that the ears were bent, as these didnt go in either. I tried heating up the metal, and tried to bend the ears back as best as I could, but it was no use. I ended up grabbing the file, and the grinder and took off about .062" of material off between the inside of the two ears. This gave me enough room to finally get the clips on the new joints.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:50 PM
APRIL 2012:
Some people may claim that spicer joints are the best, thats why I had originally picked them for this. After comparing the precision to the spicers, I think theses will work out fine.
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/715/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

Now that the U-joints were done, I could put the axle shafts and the new hub assemblies back in. The old ones were long over due:
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/29/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/151/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

Here's a video of how bad the wheel bearings were in this unit:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPwbeDimgDo&feature=youtu.be

tPwbeDimgDo&feature=youtu.be

The old knuckle was pretty crusty:
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

I prob should have wire wheeled this and painted it, but a good wiping and a little grease seemed to do just fine:
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/213/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)
The new hub unit, and axle shafts/U-joint assembly was re-installed, (trying to be very careful when inserting the inners back into place, as to not damage the axle seals) ....and all bolts torqued to spec.
Here's a shot of the new U-joint in place:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1134/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/201/axlejointsunithubs04211.jpg/)

The ride is much quieter, and of course the howling is gone. This job is not too terribly difficult, but CAN be quite time consuming if things dont go as planned. Obviously I had had some snags, which turned this into a two day job. I also learned that its very difficult to re-install the passenger side axle shaft (the long one) without a very high risk of damaging the axle seal. I believe I nicked mine on the re-install, as I've had some minor, and intermittent diff fluid leakage over the last week or so. So that is going to be fun. I hear the carrier has to come out for that job. (great...)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:51 PM
MAY 2012:
Ok, so i've been lazy in getting these pics up so here it is: Last weekend (05/05/2012),, I tackled the axle seals in my D30. I was a little scared, as I knew the diff had to come out, and I've never done any differential work before, and was a little worried I'd screw something up. While I was in there I was going to throw in the Spartan locker I got off Craigslist for a sweet trade. (managed to grab a new hardened cross pin shaft for it too from Central 4WD)
>
So here's how it went:
-First step was getting the diff cover off & draining the fluid. (I really wish I woulda had a beefier one to put back on but at least this one isn't too beat up.)
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/5792/img1282r.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/img1282r.jpg/)
You like that thumb? Seems like every time I wrench on this thing I bleed.
I've always said: "a little bit of me goes into every upgrade"

Once off and drained, I got a good look at the innards:
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/9743/img1283y.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/513/img1283y.jpg/)

Next up was getting the shafts out, I opted to just remove the hubs, shafts, and rotors as one large assembly, kind of heavy, but manageable to re-install later, (I just didnt want to take off my wheel spacers,) http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/7203/img1284e.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/img1284e.jpg/)

My FSM said to check the backlash before removal, so I did so and made note of it. I kept my fingers crossed that this number would pop up again after all was said and done.
http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/9381/img1285jl.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/img1285jl.jpg/)

After that I used a punch to mark the bearing caps, as they need to go back in their original locations and orientation. I removed the caps, and was ready to pull the carrier and ring gear assembly. I had worried that I was going to need a case spreader to get the diff out, but it ended up just sliding right out. No trouble at all. Didnt even have to pry.
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/258/img1286ta.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/img1286ta.jpg/)

Here's a look at the seal from the inside. Seemed to be fine, the leaks WERE intermittent, but none the less, needed to be addressed.
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/2580/img1287k.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/528/img1287k.jpg/)

They came out relatively easy. Still needed to use a dead-blow and a bar to push them out.
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/6715/img1288oo.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/842/img1288oo.jpg/)

Now that the diff and the seals were out, I cleaned the inside up, and ran a towel thru the tubes to help clean out the debris and residual oil and whatever else was in there. (credit to TORX for the idea on that)
Here's one of the new vs. old seals.... the old wasnt nicked up or split or anything, must've just been some grit and grime that got between the shaft and seal when I did my u-joints and hubs.
(Back/Diff-side)
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/6526/img1290yr.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/img1290yr.jpg/)

(Front/Axle-side)
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/6671/img1292cr.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/641/img1292cr.jpg/)

Putting them in was easier than I thought it was going to be. I had gotten some advice from other members here, and on jeepforum.com on some tips and tricks to make this as easy as possible. (Thanks to all that gave advice)
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/5919/img1293f.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/140/img1293f.jpg/)

Here's the tool that was created to get the driver's side in (from the passenger side) - about 4' of extensions and a 35mm socket (it fit perfectly inside the lip of one of the old seals...the old seal of course fit perfectly inside the back flange of the new seal - Credit to TORX again for the idea of using the old seal as a die to press the new seal in - thanks man!)
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/6498/img1294yz.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/267/img1294yz.jpg/)

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/5996/img1295y.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/39/img1295y.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:52 PM
MAY 2012:
Now it was time to get the Spartan Locker into the diff of the D30. With the carrier and stuff on the work bench I went to task following the instructions I downloaded. I was hoping I wasnt going to have to remove the ring gear....
First to come out was the pin holding the cross pin in place:
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/9282/img1296nw.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/85/img1296nw.jpg/)

With that out the spider gears came right out:
http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/3081/img1298og.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/801/img1298og.jpg/)

I started cleaning up the locker, getting it ready for its new home. Took it all apart, cleaned each piece real good, and noticed something that I really should have caught before.....
http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/3643/img1301k.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/803/img1301k.jpg/)

The spacers had been thru hell....The guy told me that he had incorrectly installed it... leaving the thrust washers in, when you're clearly not supposed to. It broke the cross pin he installed, and he just decided to off it to someone else, rather than deal with it. Hence the need for me getting a new cross pin shaft. I didn't mind spending the $20 for one of those, and the rest of the locker looks fine, but these spacers, are just shot. Some of these cracks go all the way thru, and there's no chance in hell i'm going to assume these wont grenade in my differential and take everything else out with it.

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8734/img1302c.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/img1302c.jpg/)

They're in just too bad a shape for me to install, so with a heavy heart, and an angry temper, I put my differential back together, and re-installed it. Re-checked the backlash (was only off by a couple thousandths than before.)
The axles went back in, and the diff was buttoned up and re-filled. Been a week now, and not a drop has leaked. So the seals are doing just fine.
>
In the mean time, i've ordered a new set of springs and pins for the Spartan, from Bell Offroad out of Bellingham Wa. (gotta support the NW!) -they came in three days flat, and the price couldn't be beat anywhere.
>
And since my day job is sitting in front of a computer, engineering and designing tooling solutions for the electronics manufacturing industry, I took it upon myself to mic-out the spacers, and draft up a design for a set of replacements. (I couldn't find a set anywhere to buy - so why not just make them!) - We have a machine shop here, and my cost is only going to be for the hardened tool steel. The design time is, well, mine, and the machining time is free. Cant argue with that, Here's the model I've got:
http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/7435/spartanspacer.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/spartanspacer.jpg/)

I should have the new set of spacers done sometime this week, and be ready to put them in before a (possible) shake down run this weekend.

PARTS ARE DONE!
Here's the new spacers to replace the cracked/broken ones that I got with the locker.
They spec'd out right on the money... less that .001" off of my design's measurements.
The old one is the one in the background.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1310.jpg
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1311.jpg
The machining quality is perfect!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1312.jpg

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 03:54 PM
may 2012:

Alot has happened this weekend, first off, I'm getting ready for 33's, and wanted to open my options for tire choice. My Ecco-5's being only 7" wide, would accept the only 33x10.50 mud terrain on the market, the BFG KM2's.
Not there's anything wrong with those tires, I just wanted more options.
So another forum member (thanks Jimmy!) hooked me up with his old set of 31x10.50 KM1's on Ravines......
OLD:
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/2227/img1314q.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/img1314q.jpg/)

NEW:
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/7678/img1315uu.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/85/img1315uu.jpg/)


The Ravines are 8" wide, and will allow me to run a 12.50 wide tire if I so choose. No Complaints here, they look great!

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 04:04 PM
MAY 2012:
So its taken me another week or so, but I finally dove BACK into the D30 to install the newly refurbished Spartan Locker. I also decided to put on the Front SST Extended Brake Lines I've had laying around (for like a year) as well as put on a set of shocks I picked up a month ago or so.
I kind of rushed thru the install of most of this, so this isnt going to be as pic heavy and descriptive as most of my write ups. But here's how it all went:
>
The was parked, tires removed, and sitting on jack stands, the D30 cover was pulled, and the case was drained. The brake calipers were removed, and the axles/hubs/rotors were pulled as an assembly. The differential bearing caps were already marked from my last time in there, so they were pulled and the differential was removed.
Here's a familiar sight - on my bench, removing the cross shaft retaining pin:
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/7316/img1335j.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/img1335j.jpg/)

And removing the cross pin/shaft/whatever:
http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/1368/img1336er.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/img1336er.jpg/)

The Carrier was then emptied of all of it guts, spider gears, shims, and thrust washers, etc....
At this point the Spartan was ready to go in.
Here's why I decided to replace the springs/pins in it:
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/8571/img1334ob.jpg] (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/img1334ob.jpg/)

Once the new springs/pins were in, and the the new spacers were set in place the spartan was loaded piece by piece into its new home:
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/4723/img1337il.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/839/img1337il.jpg/)

It stacked up easily, and the install went pretty smoothly.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/4479/img1338c.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/205/img1338c.jpg/)

I did have some trouble getting the new hardened cross pin/shaft installed. It was wanting to walk on me a little bit and not go in straight as I hammered it in. Between that and attempting to keep the two halves of the locker and the two spacers separated enough for the cross pin to clear, it took a little while, but in the end I won, and the newly loaded carrier assembly was ready to go back in.
The Diff Cover was cleaned up, and RTV'd and everything was reloaded and re-assembled/put back together.
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/8572/img1339e.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/209/img1339e.jpg/)

After the diff was buttoned up I turned my focus to the brake lines. The old came out, and the new went in. The lines were bled, and I now dont have to worry about my brake lines doubling as limiting straps.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3122/img1340kj.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/img1340kj.jpg/)

I had also picked up (a month ago or so) a set of nearly new Rough Country shocks from a 4.5-5.5 lift. The ProComp shocks I had been running served well enough, but were designed for a 2-3" lift, and I'm well beyond that now. My articulation has been limited (especially in the rear) by my shocks.
Here you can see the difference in travel between the new/old front shocks:
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/1754/img1342r.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/842/img1342r.jpg/)

I have to give it up to ProComp though....their piston diameter was a bit beefier than Rough Country's (RC top / ProComp bottom)
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/7649/img1343pp.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/img1343pp.jpg/)

Since I have Bar Pin Eliminators all around they needed to be disassembled, uninstalled and pressed into the new shocks. (the new shocks also had stock bar pins that needed to be pressed out) - Thanks to my handy dandy Harbor Freight Press Tool (i swear this thing has proved to be one of my most invaluable tools) - the job was easy.
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/7436/img1341wo.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/138/img1341wo.jpg/)

The dust boots were transferred and all four shocks were swapped out.
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/6927/img1344ww.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/267/img1344ww.jpg/)

__________________________________________________ __________
MY IMPRESSIONS:
The shocks offer a different kind of ride... cant say its better or worse, just different. Definitely not harder, but I'm not sure softer would be the right way to describe it either. The very next day (Memorial Day) was the shake down run. The Jeep preformed beyond my expectations, and I'm SUPER pleased with the Spartan up front. It allowed me to crawl over certain spots on some trails, where before I had to carry momentum or would have excess wheel spin. The shacks did great, and it seemed the jeeps tires were on the ground more often. And with the KM1's aired down, the jeep did quite well thru everything.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 04:05 PM
MAY 2012:
BIG Thanks to my friend Jimmy for hooking me up with access to a welder, and some time in his driveway last weekend (meant to post this up right away but spaced it off). Gave me the opportunity to finally fab up some keepers for my quick disconnects. No more Whiskey Tango zip ties/rope/wire holding them up when out on the trails.... My welds aren't the prettiest, but they hold up. (sorry for the dirty pics - this is post trail use - and a little more mud than should be up there for picture's sake)
>
1/2" x 2.5" hex head bolts, welded to my front tow hook brackets.
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1488/img047jx.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/img047jx.jpg/)
>
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/4964/img048h.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/689/img048h.jpg/)

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 04:06 PM
JUNE 2012:
I got a screaming deal on a set of 33x12.50x15" Wildcat EXT Mud Terrains, with nearly 75% tread. I'll easily make up the cost of them by selling off the old KM1 M/T's that I had on there. Got them mounted and balanced, and it's lookin pretty good......
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/3828/img1380m.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/img1380m.jpg/)

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/593/img1379y.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/img1379y.jpg/)

There of course was some clearance issues (expected)....and I'm pretty sur eI need to do something about the front control arms. With the size of the 33's its alot easier to see that the front axle isnt centered in the wheel well. The 31's and the stock fender trim didnt make it as apparent. So new control arms have made ot to the top of my short list. But for now, some easy mods are in order to allow more clearance.
So first to go was the inner plastic fender liner and the already modified front bumper end caps. (the jeep parts scrap pile grows)
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/9094/img1382n.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/img1382n.jpg/)

Once the old fender trim was removed (sorry no pic of this process) and everything else was out of the way... i moved on to some things I figured might be in the way. The horns, and the vacuum canister were hanging low so they got relocated.
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/6084/img1384i.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/207/img1384i.jpg/)

The bracket for the horns got a slight mod (the two locking ears were bent straight) to allow it to rotate.
http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/7780/img1385q.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/803/img1385q.jpg/)

Rotated about 45° towards the engine compartment this allowed the horn to be re-mounted right in front of the triangular opening of the fender bracket.
The canister was moved into the engine compartment.
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/1216/img1387d.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/img1387d.jpg/)

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/9143/img1386qa.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/img1386qa.jpg/)

I just so happened to have a couple pool noodles laying around, and one was already broken in half... so each of the halves went into the cavities of the fenders.
http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/2811/img1388co.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/37/img1388co.jpg/)

As you can see....there is a very prevalent need for longer control arms.
http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/2159/img1389yk.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/580/img1389yk.jpg/)

I'll be flexing this out later today after work at a nearby loading dock to see just how much needs to be trimmed, folder or otherwise dealt with. Glad to finally be on 33's....

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 04:07 PM
JUNE 2012:
Ordered this little goodie... (should be here by the 4th of July)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/COMPRESSOR.jpg

Masterflow MF-1050 / 12v High Volume Air Compressor
-12 Volt
-1/3 HP oil-less motor
-Built-in serviceable air filter
-Easy-to-read gauge
-Alligator clip connectors
-Quick connect 16 ft. of coil hose included with easy twist screw-on brass inflator nozzle.
-150 PSI
-2.54cfm
-40% Duty Cycle
-Storage Bag & Accessories.
A little better specs than the Viair 400 series.... and at a fraction of the cost.
Seen it in action for years on various trips with another Jeeper. Airs up 33's form 10lbs to 32lbs in less than 4min....and plenty of power to do multiple rigs back to back. Never heat cycled, and still going strong after nearly a decade of use..... GOOD ENOUGH FOR ME!
>
May have an option for an (easy to stash away) air tank....
This would be part of phase 2 of the OBA project. The location (potentially) would be between the panel and the body in the drivers side of the rear cargo area.... I think this would probably fit just fine....
3gal (Ø15" x 6" tall) $65.00
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/3galbluetank.jpg

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 04:11 PM
JUNE 2012:
Seafoam'd it. (1/2 bottle thru the brake booster vacuum line, and the rest in the gas tank)
Didn't give me as much of a smoke show as I thought it would - guess thats a good thing.
I cleaned the carbon build-up on the cap and rotor too.
Then finally removed the track bar drop bracket that was on from the original lift. (actually made a difference- I was kinda surprised.)
I have a drop pitman arm i was going to throw on, but now I'm thinking no.....
Before:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1399.jpg

After:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1400.jpg

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 04:12 PM
JUNE 2012:
So the 33's need a little more room. The rears will get a cut-n-fold, and the fronts are getting a trim. I may opt to do a relocation of the factory flares, but for now, they're staying off. I did a lot of research across many different forums, and blogs. I have to admit, cutting the body up had me pretty nervous...So I wanted to make sure I did this right.
Here's how it all went down.
Following the natural lines (very carefully) of the bends in the fender just above the holes where the flare mounts are, the metal was trimmed.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1406.jpg

After the trim was done, I took the angle grinder to the edge to knock down any burrs, and to help even out any imperfections in the cut. Then I took a long bastard file and really straightened any sways in the cut out. After I was satisfied with the finish of the cut, it was time to tape things off and prep for paint. I decided to go 1.5" out from the cut edge for my tape line.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1412.jpg

Once taped, I used some fine grit sand paper to rough up the surface to allow the paint (bed coating) to adhere better.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1413.jpg

After the surface was roughed, I dusted it off with a clean rag, then cleaned it with some alcohol.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1414.jpg

After that, the whole area was masked off, I used some paper I had laying around from when I last moved (the stuff thats used to wrap up glasses and plates with - news paper would work just as well.) The tire & wheel was masked off using a old tire bag from America's Tire.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1415.jpg

The product used to seal everything up was Duplicolor Bedliner.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1405.jpg

All coated:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1416.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1417.jpg

My cuts didn't turn out dead-nuts perfect.... but they are pretty dang good. The finished results are pretty good, and if I decide to mod and relocate the flares, It'll look even better.
All finished:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1418.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1419.jpg

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 04:13 PM
JULY 2012:
The rear fenders got the infamous Cut-n-Fold treatment.
A little different technique than the fronts, but I was up for the challenge.
I had read what must've been a few dozen (literally) threads on this procedure.
The thread I came back to time and time again was from paraleyes from jeepforum.com and his thread "Cut And Fold Rear Lower Quarter Panels - The Right Way!"
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/cut-fold-rear-lower-quarter-panels-right-way-1007865/
It seemed to be one of the most comprehensive write ups out there, and had a fair number of pics to go with it. (still not enough though for my liking)
>
With all that and even seeing a few in person I STILL didnt feel 100% prepared (or ready) to start cutting in the Jeep in the way that is required to do this. Honestly - It seems like a simple enough procedure in concept, but in all actuality, it was one of the more difficult mods I've ever done. It didn't help much that I was on a deadline, working late at night, and had a wheeling trip in the morning.
What I should have done was take those who offered up on their offer to help, and driven my happy ass up there to get more heads and hands on this - call it what you will, i decided to go it alone.
Without any more excuses to throw around, I started in on it.
Passenger side was first. I backed it into the garage and the rear wheel came off (for more working room)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/rearcut-n-fold001.jpg

The rear bumper came off, and I was ready (as I would ever be) to start in on the real work.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/rearcut-n-fold002.jpg

FOUR FRICKING HOURS Later....
THREE FRICKING Cut Off Wheels,
TWO FRICKING different metal blade swaps in the jig saw,
and ONE MAJOR PAIN IN MY ARSE, (main reason for no pics of the procedure) I was done......
With ONE side.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/rearcut-n-fold005.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/rearcut-n-fold003.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/rearcut-n-fold006.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/rearcut-n-fold004.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/rearcut-n-fold007.jpg

It's not perfect, I was tired, worn out, and A little high from all the fumes.... But I'm glad I did it, and I'm more or less happy with the results. My plan is to extend the rear bumper along the side similar to what paraleyes did in his write up but with a few differences. I'll tie into the frame, and may even have a small tube flare out that will double as a step (for when loading the roof rack) This will give me great armor protection for the rear quarter, and will strengthen the rear end as a whole.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 04:16 PM
MURPHY'S LAW:
"any chance something can go wrong it usually will, and more often times than not, DOES"

And of course as luck would have it...
The very next day, up in the Tillamook State Forest, on a trail called Saddle Up.......
(pictures courtesy of goblazers_6 on NAXJA)
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/130/saddleup1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/saddleup1.jpg/)

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/2293/saddleup2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/saddleup2.jpg/)

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9206/saddleup2b.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/15/saddleup2b.jpg/)

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/2479/saddleup3a.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/692/saddleup3a.jpg/)

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5995/saddleup4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/232/saddleup4.jpg/)

http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/315/saddleup5.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/saddleup5.jpg/)

http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/6756/saddleup6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/861/saddleup6.jpg/)

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/1189/saddleup7.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/saddleup7.jpg/)

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7518/saddleup8.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/saddleup8.jpg/)

Yup, after all that work.....
Well hey if you cant take some body damage with some mud on your face and a smile.......
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/9020/saddleup9.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/535/saddleup9.jpg/)

I've already got a replacement fender on. A fellow Jeeper (can't thank you enough Jason) hooked me up with one he had laying around.
It's green, but lines up well and is already trimmed (not to match, but at least it clears).
I've found a replacement header panel, a good fiberglass one too, (not the cheapo Chinese plastic ones) at 205 Auto Salvage for 100 bucks. Both will need to get painted, and I haven't bit the bullet yet on the header panel. I HAVE replaced the corner marker light, the fender of course, and re-shaped the brackets underneath to their original form with a little help, again, from Crazymoose. Luckily the core support didn't see any carnage, so I lucked out in that its just cosmetic, and didn't touch the hood either.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 04:17 PM
JULY 2012:
This last weekend, finally put in the motor mounts, and rear bump stops I had ordered a couple weeks back. (sorry forgot to take pics of those out of the box)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/bumpstops.jpg

The motor mounts were done first. I knew that at least one was toast, as some mornings, I'd start up the Jeep, and hear (and feel) the engine shutter around, for just a second. It was a good thing I did this now... there really wasn't much left of the driver's side mount.
(New on the Left - Old on the Right)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1497.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1498.jpg

The passenger side one looked pretty good, not even a little bit of chapping.
BOTH were replaced regardless.... and the results? Not too shabby. The engine feels more solid on start up - and less like its going to jump out of the hood and run down the street. I also noticed when driving, and hitting a pothole or something, there's much less of my fillings falling out of my skull. I think a lot of the sound/impact I was hearing/felt was the engine slamming around on the lack of any dampening of the drivers side engine mount.
>
The rear bump stops were next on my list. The drivers side (again) was the worst of the two - in fact is was so bad, it wasn't even there.
And in true Cherokee fashion, all four bolts snapped off in the frame when trying to be removed. - awesome -

Tried drilling them out, and went for the Easy-outs .... of course one of those snapped off inside one of the drilled bolts as well. -awesome -

So the only other option left was to fabricate. Well... weld really.
So a co-worker hooked me up while I was working late and prepped the area for me, and got it all down to bare metal. The rest was going to be up to me.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/1879/img1503np.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/31/img1503np.jpg/)

The tabs of the bump stops were wire wheeled clean of paint....
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2415/img1502c.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/img1502c.jpg/)

And my super fancy bottle-jack-piece of wood-holding device was placed into action to temporarily secure the bump stop into position while I tacked it into place.
http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/1695/img1504am.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/571/img1504am.jpg/)

Everything was welded into place, the metal wire wheeled again, and all got a fresh coat of paint to seal it up.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/1200/img1506hz.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/52/img1506hz.jpg/)

My welds are getting better, still not great, but better, and the most important thing is that they hold. We'll see how they work out after the big Jolly Jeepers run this weekend.

NW99XJ
08-02-2012, 04:20 PM
JULY 2012:
Well that brings you all up to speed, thats my build so far.
Here's the latest:
Two wheeling trips in the last two weeks, and a little photo shoot with my girl as well....
Enjoy:
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/959/img1565qi.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/img1565qi.jpg/)

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2457/carwashbehbeh023.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/193/carwashbehbeh023.jpg/)

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/8745/carwashbehbeh019.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/carwashbehbeh019.jpg/)

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/7444/carwashbehbeh020.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/440/carwashbehbeh020.jpg/)

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8572/carwashbehbeh036.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/31/carwashbehbeh036.jpg/)

4.3LXJ
08-05-2012, 06:26 PM
I think you are about ready to post in the random babe thread :D

NW99XJ
08-06-2012, 05:38 PM
Wait a minute.... I recognize that rig!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFsehu0JnPM&list=FLfq1OnrTCwp9UdyxexMyXWg&index=1&feature=plcp

Mudderoy
08-07-2012, 10:47 AM
JULY 2012:
Well that brings you all up to speed, thats my build so far.
Here's the latest:
Two wheeling trips in the last two weeks, and a little photo shoot with my girl as well....
Enjoy:
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/959/img1565qi.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/img1565qi.jpg/)

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2457/carwashbehbeh023.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/193/carwashbehbeh023.jpg/)

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/8745/carwashbehbeh019.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/carwashbehbeh019.jpg/)

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/7444/carwashbehbeh020.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/440/carwashbehbeh020.jpg/)

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8572/carwashbehbeh036.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/31/carwashbehbeh036.jpg/)

Were the kidnapping charges dropped? :cop: :poke:

NW99XJ
08-08-2012, 10:15 AM
Were the kidnapping charges dropped? :cop: :poke:
HA HA Ha....... Good one.
We just celebrated our 7 year anniversary a couple weeks ago....
She's been very patient and understanding thru this build so far... all the late nights hammering, drilling, torching, and wrenching, up till 2 am, coming to bed smelling like gear oil. she's protested a little. And usually gives me a good rolling of the eyes when I say I have something to do to it. But she likes coming with me offroad, and lets me do what I want to do to it, so I cant complain!

Mudderoy
08-08-2012, 11:17 AM
HA HA Ha....... Good one.
We just celebrated our 7 year anniversary a couple weeks ago....
She's been very patient and understanding thru this build so far... all the late nights hammering, drilling, torching, and wrenching, up till 2 am, coming to bed smelling like gear oil. she's protested a little. And usually gives me a good rolling of the eyes when I say I have something to do to it. But she likes coming with me offroad, and lets me do what I want to do to it, so I cant complain!

Yeah that's great, and she's a good sport allowing you to take pictures of her. I mean I think any pretty woman likes it, but they generally don't like it put up for the world to see.

bluedragon436
08-14-2012, 08:55 AM
may 2012:

Alot has happened this weekend, first off, I'm getting ready for 33's, and wanted to open my options for tire choice. My Ecco-5's being only 7" wide, would accept the only 33x10.50 mud terrain on the market, the BFG KM2's.
Not there's anything wrong with those tires, I just wanted more options.
So another forum member (thanks Jimmy!) hooked me up with his old set of 31x10.50 KM1's on Ravines......
OLD:
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/2227/img1314q.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/img1314q.jpg/)

NEW:
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/7678/img1315uu.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/85/img1315uu.jpg/)


The Ravines are 8" wide, and will allow me to run a 12.50 wide tire if I so choose. No Complaints here, they look great!

I like those Ravines you got. I think they look clean on the XJ, and I can't wait to pick up the Canyons I got a good deal on, once I get back stateside... I have a friend who has the Ravines on her LJ, and I've been looking at them, but can't find any good deals on a set of those... so will stick with the Canyons for now.. Also I think I'll be using the writeup you provided as well as some others, one of which is on here, and hit up the Cut-n-Fold on my XJ once I get back too... but we will see on that mod, at least until after items that have to be taken care of on the XJ are done..

NW99XJ
08-15-2012, 08:44 AM
I like those Ravines you got. I think they look clean on the XJ, and I can't wait to pick up the Canyons I got a good deal on, once I get back stateside... I have a friend who has the Ravines on her LJ, and I've been looking at them, but can't find any good deals on a set of those... so will stick with the Canyons for now.. Also I think I'll be using the writeup you provided as well as some others, one of which is on here, and hit up the Cut-n-Fold on my XJ once I get back too... but we will see on that mod, at least until after items that have to be taken care of on the XJ are done..
Hey thanks! Yea I was a little skeptical on the Ravines, but once I got em on, they really made a difference in the look of the jeep.
The cut-n-fold for me was a big hurdle, its pretty entailed, and I was pretty freaked out to start cutting and banging on the body of my daily driver. In the end, I got over my fears, and tackled it. Glad I did it too!

NW99XJ
08-15-2012, 11:35 AM
Meant to post this up the other day....
Turned off the Jeep at a quick pit stop on my way home from work the other night.... and lo-and-behold.... it wouldn't start back up.... tried to jump it (the normal way) and that didn't work either. I had no tools, (I had JUST taken them out a few days back to make room for a bunch of camping equipment - and hadn't put things back yet) :bang:
....but I still had those two Optima's in the back (a lot of good that did).... finally got the jeep started by hooking the positive jumper cable lead to the main bus terminal off of the fuse block. Stopped on the way home (left the jeep running) and picked up a pair of new terminals. Then promptly installed one of the new Yellow Tops. The old terminals had been corroded beyond salvage. The first 3/4" of wire from the terminals was a solid crusty green, and all the ring terminals needed a good cleaning as well. I trimmed back the main wires to good copper, and replaced or cleaned all the terminals.
I was PLEASANTLY surprised to see just how quick the jeep fired up with the new battery. It had been a slow crank, and occasionally, took two tries to get the engine to start. Next up will be some wiring upgrades, and to clean up some of the mess of what I have going on right now. The main wires will be replaced with at least 4awg wire, the grounds will be replaced, and I'll probably replace and/or add another ground to the block and fire wall as well. - i'll be sure to do a full write up on this when I do it.
For now here's a quick shot of the new Optima in its new home.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG126.jpg
Since I have another one of these chillin in the garage, I'm now debating on a cowell snorkel/intake system to make room for a dual battery set up.

NW99XJ
09-09-2012, 02:17 PM
I've been meaning to post this up, just haven't gotten around to it yet....
Here's the latest additions to the parts stash....
Some "New-to-Me" adjustable upper and lower control arms - in LIKE-NEW condition.
As well as a 1-ton Tie Rod upgrade..... These will be going on soon!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG137.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG138.jpg

NW99XJ
09-09-2012, 02:18 PM
Hey look what just came in the mail!!!!
This will be proudly displayed soon:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG015.jpg

bluedragon436
09-09-2012, 03:02 PM
Those arms and that tie rod look like awesome deals for sure... And of course the decal will be the best mod to date!! LOL Can't wait to see the arms and tie rod installed..

NW99XJ
09-09-2012, 11:02 PM
Yea i'll be happy to have the "bendable" ZJ tie rod off of there, (i'll then have two of them for spares) and get this one on, I'm sure it'll be a nice upgrade. The control arms have been a long time coming...it'll be nice to have my front axle sitting where it should be. I'll be sure to post up a full write up of the install.

NW99XJ
09-17-2012, 01:51 PM
OK the control arms and tie rod are still sitting in the garage, but i did manage to do a little something on the Jeep over the weekend. In the cargo area, there were only 3 cargo tie-downs, (the little loops in the floor) and I've wanted to have 4 for obvious reasons.
With a planned wheeling trip coming up the next day, I decided to whip somehting up real quick, just to tied me over.
I used what I had laying around, a section of back strap (similar to plumbers tape, but thicker- usually found in the install kit when you get a new car stereo.) This was used for the bracket part, and a galvanized nail was used for the loop part. I just cut off the tip and the head, and bent it to shape using a couple pairs of pliers.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1783.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1782.jpg

Here it is installed, nothing special, and again, totally temporary, but served its purpose well.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1784.jpg

bluedragon436
09-17-2012, 02:00 PM
^^ Nice I picked up all new heavier duty tie downs from TSC, cause one of my stock ones was missing.. just haven't installed them yet...

NW99XJ
09-17-2012, 02:06 PM
^^ Nice I picked up all new heavier duty tie downs from TSC, cause one of my stock ones was missing.. just haven't installed them yet...

I like the sound of those...LINK?

bluedragon436
09-17-2012, 02:11 PM
TSC Tie Downs (http://www.tractorsupply.com/erickson-surface-mount-flip-anchor-with-2-bolt-base-1200-lb-maximum-3016830)

1200lbs, got to be good for tie downs in the back of the XJ!! LOL And you don't even want to ask about the hardware I chose to go with them for install... that's just a whole other overkill situation!! LOL

Carves
09-17-2012, 05:12 PM
As a replacement tiedown option if you do an upgrade ....

My local tractor shop had these which I find OK ... single bolt mounting.

Considering what they are mounted through .... They're probably overkill too ... :D:D


http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Vehicle%20Bits/TieDowns01a.jpg

NW99XJ
09-18-2012, 09:07 AM
Those ARE pretty beefy, however I need to have these able to fold down flat. I haul a ton of DJ equipment in this and need to be able to slide cases, racks, and cabinets over them at will with no hangups.

Hellraisingvtec
10-11-2012, 02:45 PM
Were the kidnapping charges dropped? :cop: :poke:

:jail: lol :jail:

NW99XJ
12-05-2012, 11:33 PM
I finally got off my lazy ass and started the "one man work party" to install some parts i've had laying around since Aug/Sept.
But before I started any of that, some routine maint. was on the top of the list.
I knew after several trips out this summer, wheeling in all that dust, my air filter was in need of some serious attenmtion.....I didn't realize just how bad it needed to be addressed.
This is the PILE of dirt and debris I shook and tapped out of my air filter:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1984.jpg

Yea....I know.... Might explain why I've been getting only 12.5 mpg lately.
I also cleaned up the oxidation and corrosion from the cap and rotor.. which also desperately needed some love. And while looking/poking around discovered I might have a slight valve cover leak:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1987.jpg

Once that was done and a courteous fluids check...I started actually turning wrenches.
The goal was to get the (new to me) adjustable upper and lower control arms on:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1994.jpg

....and swap out some of the bent steering components. My ZJ Tie rod suffered some carnage on Waterfall up at the TSF earlier this year, and was in need of a swap out. Luckily I had all the parts on hand. With the CA's I had picked up earlier this summer, I also grabbed a Rough Country Tie Rod Upgrade....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2017.jpg

So the plan was to get all of this on Saturday morning, and get it aligned that afternoon.......Lets just say things didnt go quite as planned.

Here's what I was working with. Fixed lower control arms, from the ProComp Kit I started with all those years ago.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1995.jpg

They've served me quite well over the years, and despite a little rub wear from when my axle wasn't centered....they're still in amazingly great shape. Even the bushings are in like new condition. However, despite all that, they were still fixed, and at the lift height I'm at now, I needed adjustability. Here's a comparison:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1996.jpg

Because these are straight arms, and dont have any bend to them, I knew I was going to face some clearance issues in the flex department. I quickly took care of this.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1998.jpg

The point at which the control arm meets the mount was "trimmed" for better clearance, then painted. That's one thing I will definitely miss about my other arms.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1999.jpg

Next up it was on to the uppers. I was doing this one side at a time, and let me tell you, having a third hand would've come in real handy for getting these slightly longer control arms into place. The lowers I've done on my rig and other's plenty of times, and have a pretty good technique for man-handling them into place. So they both went in relatively easily.

I was however a complete tool at this point, and not only didn't pay attention to what I was doing, and was just going all out trying to get things accomplished..... so when it came time to remove the first upper control arm, I went at like I did for the last vehicle I did this on (03 TJ)....I got into the frame rail thru that small oval opening with my socket and extension with one hand... and with the other got on the nut on the inside of the frame rail...and started turning....hard. "ca-clunk-clunk".....I pulled out the now socketless extension from inside the frame rail, and swore out loud for a good 10 min straight. After about an hour of fishing with this and that, I finally made a magnet tool and extracted the lost socket from inside the frame rail:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2006.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2007.jpg

Now that this project had my undivided attention....I realized that there is no need to use any tool on that nut because It has a large flange on it to keep it from turning!!!!!!! DUH! So after I put my feelings of sheer stupidity aside, I quickly removed the first upper control arm and tool a picture for comparison:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2008.jpg

YAY! I had one side done, and only one solitary control arm to go....the passenger side upper.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2010.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2011.jpg

NW99XJ
12-05-2012, 11:34 PM
The last remaining upper control arm fought me with everything it had... and every step of the way. Next time around, I will probably start with the uppers, and do them both at the same time versus doing them one at a time. I think what happened was that having the other three CA's in, and although none of the bolts were completely sinched down, it twisted and moved the axle's position enough, to where the bolts holding this one in were under too much of a strain. After nearly two hours of struggling with it I managed to get each of the two bolts halfway out, and there they stayed. I tried every trick in the book, and even spent quite a bit of time searching online for solutions. Nothing was working. I had two options. Start over..... take off the other three control arms, and begin anew..... or CUT this one in half.......
Since it was just a stock control arm I will never use for anything, I grabbed a cut off wheel and made short work of it:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2009.jpg
Now that that was out of the way, the bolts came right out and I was able to finish the install.
__________________________________________________ _________
The tie rod was a whole nother issue..... No matter how I set up the drag link, or where I adjusted everything, I had nearly TWO INCHES of toe in that I couldn't get rid of. I think it was a combination of an XJ tie rod and a ZJ drag link. Everyone always says they're the same... I beg to differ. The other thing I noticed is that although this tie rod IS substantially beefier... it still uses XJ tie rod ends.....and those are weaker (smaller) that the ZJ TRE's.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2014.jpg

In the end, I installed my spare ZJ Tie rod... and was able to dial in the toe in using a tape measure to within a 1/4" ...close enough to get me to an alignment shop. This of course was not until the next day....and after nearly 12 hours of battling this project as a whole.

Upon recommendation from another NAXJA member....I took it to my local Firestone dealer...after calling them, and verifying that they could PROPERLY handle the alignment of a lifted XJ with all of said aftermarket parts on it. When I got down there, I was told to go somewhere else, as they would only adjust it to OEM specs.... and nothing more.
This of course would not do, even upon my insistence, and supply of all the necessary numbers for toe-in and castor. They still would not touch it.
FINE!
BE THAT WAY!
I ended up going to the place I bought my first set of 31's from, a local Goodyear Tire Center..... Not only were they more than willing to do it, and do it right, they did it to my specs, and guaranteed it for life. They also threw in (upon my request) a rebalance of my front two tires...FOR FREE.
I left there very happy, and have numbers for reference, and a very driveable Jeep that I cant wait to take out for a shake down run.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2013.jpg

XJ Wheeler
12-06-2012, 03:16 AM
Honorable, qualified, HELPFUL shops are hard to come by these days. Good to hear there's still one out there.

NW99XJ
12-10-2012, 01:08 AM
Well as luck would have it, I touch the Jeep, cut parts off of it, and generally try to do something good to it, and it protests.
The very next week, my Alternator went out on me. On my way to work....ZERO Volts all of the sudden...and that lovely "CHECK GAUGES" light coming on....Luckily, my Yellow Top Optima carries enough juice for me to limp home on.
So first thing was first.....think "upgrade" ....I got back to the house and started refreshing my memory on available/compatible swaps. MY research led me to believe that a 97 ZJ or Durango alternator was the most common/popular swap....with very little modification needed to get it in. So after a couple hours of reading a couple dozen threads/posts on the subject, I started looking up parts stores prices and availability. YES, I COULD have gone to the JY and grabbed something out of a vehicle there, and probably saved a ton of money, but I wanted a warranty, and didnt really want to spend more time wrenching than I had to.
I also knew that bumping up my available amperage from aprox 90 to over 130 I was going to need to upgrade some wiring too. So after some additional research on the subject of what to do and get for the wiring upgrade, I had a shopping list and a plan.

The Alternator: 1997 ZJ 136 amp w/lifetime warranty - $159.00
The Wiring: @$2.70/ft x 12ft = $32.00 (they rounded down and even gave me extra)
-8ft 4awg Red - (38" B= to Starter, 18" B+ to PDC, 36" Alternator to PDC)
-4ft 4awg Black - (8" B- to Fender, 28" B- to Engine Block, 10" Engine to Firewall)
-14 4awg 3/8" Ring Terminals @$1.49 x 14 = $20.86
-Heat Shrink Tubing - $9.50
Protection: 150amp ANL Fuse (and one extra as a back up) and Fuse Holder -$45

TOTAL: $266.36

Ok...as it seems with everything I have done on this Jeep, nothing quite goes as planned. I'll explain as I go along.
Here's what I started with....Kind of a mess.....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2027.jpg

After removing the battery.....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2030.jpg

I knew in order to have enough room to work, I needed to get the battery tray out of the way too....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2031.jpg

I dont know about earlier models, but MY late model, seems to have some sort of safety switch built into the batter tray:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2037.jpg

I think this is so that if the battery were to become jostled so loose that its floating around the engine bay, once this plunger switch "sees" that the battery is no longer in the tray, it shuts off the vehicle. This is just a theory, I didnt take the time to test it, look it up, or examine it much further, but it seems to be the most logical answer:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2036.jpg

Now that all that was out of the way, I had a clear look at the alternator from above and I started spraying everything down with PB Blaster.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2032.jpg

Here's a look at the stock alternator from the rear.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2039.jpg

On my 99, the tensioner pulley is adjusted with this 15mm bolt....it is loosened to allow the pulley to slide up to release tension on the serpentine belt.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2034.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2033.jpg

Now the upper and lower mounting alternator mounting bolts were loosened and removed.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2035.jpg

The front bracket also has to be removed, there are 2 bolts and 3 nuts (the lower most is the lower alternator mount.)
The two upper nuts are on removable studs, -we'll get to these later.....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2038.jpg

Once all the nuts and bolts are out/off, you can disconnect the wiring (if you havent already)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2049.jpg

Then pull out the front bracket, and pull the alternator out. It's more than likely going to have to come out from the top, I didnt have enough room to pull it out from below.

NW99XJ
12-10-2012, 01:10 AM
With the old alternator out, and sitting side by side with the new one, I instantly knew I was in store for a much longer install.
Although the mounting locations were different, and the main output post was obviously there, the two other wires were different, mine (old) having a "plug" and the other (new) having two posts. "uh-oh".....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2051.jpg

Ok, no big deal....I can handle this....although things were different, ther were at least the same "number" of them...
I removed the rears of each to trace the leads, and where they went in hopes of identifying them and their purpose, hopefully then being able to match one to the other.
There are only three 8mm nuts, and one 8mm screw that hold the rear cover on. The screw actually is a little grounding plate.
Once these were removed on both units, I saw that they were very similar in construction and layout. With my trusty Fluke digital multi-meter, I started probing away, testing continuity of different points, and junctions, looking for circuit paths that I could test and get a solid, consistent reading from. Once I has decided what and where to probe, I started my comparisons.
>
Left plug terminal of old alternator to common test point:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2045.jpg

Left post of new alternator to common test point:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2046.jpg

Right plug terminal of old alternator to common test point:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2047.jpg

Right post of new alternator to common test point:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2048.jpg

My readings were close enough from me to tell "left to left - right to right"

NW99XJ
12-10-2012, 01:13 AM
I snipped the two wire plug previously connected to the old alternator from the Jeep
(leaving enough room to hook it back up if need be)....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2050.jpg

And plugged it in the alternator sitting on the bench.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2053.jpg

This now told me that the terminal on the "left" was the striped wire. I now had reference to hook things back up.
I also noticed that the old alternator had this rubber cap that went over the "axle" of the alternator.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2065.jpg

The new one didn't so I robbed it from the old, and installed it on the new.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2066.jpg

After installing the covers back onto both units,
I marked the new alternator, just as a reminder and visual reference, of where I would be placing the aforementioned striped wire:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2057.jpg

The wires still in the jeep got the necessary treatment for proper hook-up to the new alternator:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2052.jpg

The main post mount/isolater was modified from the old unit to fit the new.
(of you are just swapping out an XJ alternator for another XJ alternator most of this is of course not necessary)
The old one had square corners that were filed/cut/ground off to fit the circular opening of the rear cover.
It also would allow the protective cover of the main wire that feeds the PDC to be re-used.
Here you can see the necessary mods that were required to make it fit on the new unit:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2056.jpg

Ok, so now I was ready to actually install this thing.
Going into this, I knew from my research, that it wasn't going to just "drop right in"...and that the mounting bracket was going to have to be modified...
the new unit is much larger that the old one.
So the bracket needs to be ground down a little for clearance.

NW99XJ
12-10-2012, 01:14 AM
So off comes the bracket.....remember those studs from earlier?.... the nuts on them are 15mm, the studs themselves are 16mm, and with a little persuasion (breaker bar) they cam loose and were removed:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2060.jpg

There are two more bolts on the backside of the bracket that mount this to the block, they too have to be removed:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2058.jpg

Once out the bracket can be mocked into place with the new alternator...I got a rough idea of how much material had to be removed from this cast aluminum bracket.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2061.jpg

With my handy dandy grinder I went to work, grinding, and test fitting, grinding more and another test fit,....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2063.jpg

This went on and on, until I had ground away enough material to give the new alternator enough clearance.
NOTE: the center (apex of the arc) is where most of the grinding will need to be done.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2064.jpg

I finally had a modified bracket and the alternator was ready to be installed.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2083.jpg

Upon test fitting...I quickly realized I was not going to get this much fatter alternator in without some serious clearance. First I tried mounting the bracket, and then bringing the alternator in the same way I took the old one out. NOPE....that didnt work, So more clearance was needed, I took out the coolant reservoir, which gave me a little ore room to at least get the alternator into the area it needed to be....but did not have enough room to position it correctly. So I took the mounting bracket back off the block, and mounted it on the alternator and twisted, shoved, and cursed that damn assembly into place. FINALLY!!!....it went into position.... and as I started mounting it, and tightening down the first two bolts (studs) I noticed that it wasn't going to seat properly in its new home.....damn....more grinding.....
The block needs to ground in approximately the same place as the bracket ...makes sense right? duh! lol,
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2085.jpg

So with the alternator/bracket assembly shifted out of place, I got in there with my grinder and went to town.
The work went pretty quickly, and there isn't as much material that needs to be removed as in the bracket's case.
More so in the back side of it than the front:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2084.jpg

I spray painted a protective coat of paint over this exposed metal (I'm pretty sure its steel compared to the bracket's aluminum...and figured it was safer to error on the side of caution anyways) ... and mounted the alternator for the final time.
Here you can see it in place, with all the wires hooked up, including one of the new cables I made:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2088.jpg

NW99XJ
12-10-2012, 01:16 AM
Making of the new cables came easy. Thanks to a guy who goes by 5-90 (i think his name might be Jon?) and his website "Kellys Work In Progress": http://www.kelleyswip.com
I have a ton of experience in making cables, and of course wiring in general, so this part of it all went pretty smooth.
Here's a shot of all my supplies laid out.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2068.jpg

I started by pulling out some of the cables I knew were going to be replaced. The alternator to PDC was one, PDC to battery was another, and of course all the grounds. I opted to skip replacing the starter wire at this time.....I looked it over, and it was in decent shape. I had recently upgraded the ring terminal on the battery end of it, and honestly...I've never had a cranking issue. So I left it alone. The grounds were first up....the first and foremost was that cheesy ground "strap" that runs from the back of the engine to the firewall.....this is one of the most important cables in the system, as virtually ALL of the vehicles interior electrical components and electrical circuits from gauges to accessories, to computers, get their ground from the firewall.
So after a liberal soaking of PB Blaster, I went to task taking it off.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2070.jpg

Once removed I verified the length needed for the new cable, and cut a section of the 4awg off.
Here you can see the chunk of new cable compared to the old strap.
There is a massive difference in the amount of current carrying metal available from the old to the new.
(you can see that I had already stripped away some of the insulation in preparation for the crimping of the new terminal end)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2071.jpg

I cut a good inch or two of heat shrink tubing off of the roll I bought, and placed it in the cable.
Then I took one of the new ring terminals and placed it on the end, making sure I had stripped away enough of the insulation to fully fill the cavity of the connector. In the next pic you can see the piece of heat shrink tubing, and one of the two crimps made in the connector.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2073.jpg

I double crimp any lage gauge connector like this to ensure it will never pull out, and to make a good, solid, reliable, mechanical connection between wire and connector. Once thats done, I use some good electrical tape and tightly wrap the end over the connector, the seam between the wire's insulation and the connector, and down to some of the rest of the wire.
This does a couple things. One, it give me an initial seal against oxidation and any moisture, and two, covers any sharp edges created by the crimp, that may pierce the heat shrink.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2076.jpg

For the next step I used a torch, if you decide to this on your own, a good heat gun may work too, but a hair dryer probably wont. You need good intense heat for the tubing to react the way it should.
CAUTION: DO NOT PLAY WITH FIRE.
ALSO: Too much exposure to direct flame will melt the heat shrink. Keep the tip of the flame a few inches away from the surface of the tubing and moving around at all times!
You want a nice even heating, so rotating the cable around as you move the flame around ensures that the heat is penetrating, and covering as much area as evenly and thoroughly as possible. With a heat gun, you may need to move around slower, or keep the flow of hot air on each area a little longer.
WARNING: Cable ends WILL be HOT, and can burn you.... Blow on them, or leave them to cool on a suitable surface before handling!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2077.jpg

Once done, you have a nice, well connected, and super sealed cable end....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2075.jpg

Just look at the difference from the old strap to the newly finished grounding cable
("grounding cable" just sounds beefier than strap anyways)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2078.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2079.jpg

All of the cables getting swapped out were made in this fashion.

NW99XJ
12-10-2012, 01:20 AM
One thing that gave me some trouble, and I guess is pretty common, is the ground cable from the battery to the passenger side fender.... apparently the bolt securing it likes to break.
Mine was no exception:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2069.jpg

Easy enough fix.... I removed a screw from the bracket right there on the fender and drilled the hole out slightly, and placed a bolt and a nut securing the new cable to the fender. Then used this as a new ground post for a few accessories and secured them to the bolt with another nut:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2096.jpg

As I may have mentioned the previous owner bypassed or otherwise removed the OEM fuseable link, and since I knew I needed to protect the power going into the PDC (Power Distribution Center) I opted to install an ANL type fuse holder and a 150amp ANL fuse... This is the closest rated fuse to match the 136amps coming from the alternator, without risking frequent pops.

The location was simple....as close the PDC as possible, and there just so happened to be a bracket right there....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2081.jpg

I drilled one of the two existing holes a little larger to accommodate a small bolt, nut, & washer....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2082.jpg

The new ANL Fuse holder was then securely mounted to this location.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2094.jpg

The power from the alternator passes through this and feeds the PDC, which in turn feeds the rest of the vehicle.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2091.jpg

While I was at it, I re-ran much of all the other aftermarket wiring I had in there going to the battery.
Feeds for stereo equipment, several lighting circuits, the alarm, and more.... waaaay to much to want to have hooked up right at the battery...it would just end up too clustered. Luckily I had this little power distribution block laying around, so I put it to good use.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2089.jpg

Another 4awg wire feeds it directly from the battery, and all the other fused power leads going to all the other aftermarket circuits gets fed from it. (one 4awg in - four 16-8 awg out)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2090.jpg

The two small gauge wires to the alternator were hooked up and its new power lead was installed and ran.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2088.jpg

I split loomed everything, and it looks much much cleaner now.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2099.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2098.jpg

I went from this:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2026.jpg

To this:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2097.jpg

And for the first time since I've owned the Jeep, my volt gauge is reading 14volts.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2100.jpg

Brasscatz
12-11-2012, 08:00 PM
Nicely done man! Have you bought your plane ticket to Houston yet? Cuz you're doin this to mine too!

NW99XJ
12-12-2012, 10:23 PM
Nicely done man! Have you bought your plane ticket to Houston yet? Cuz you're doin this to mine too!

Oh, and here I thought you were going to drive up here to Oregon!
OOPS!

Brasscatz
12-12-2012, 10:28 PM
Yeah, but with the wealth of members down here.... let's just say time better spent :D

dragordie
12-13-2012, 12:37 PM
Impressive build so far and good to see a build where there is so much attention to detail. Very nice wiring job.

NW99XJ
12-31-2012, 10:02 PM
Impressive build so far and good to see a build where there is so much attention to detail. Very nice wiring job.

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
I come from the school of those who take pride in their workmanship....it seems to be a dying trait.

NW99XJ
12-31-2012, 10:03 PM
So on my way to go get my new tags......THIS comes up.....
(thank you Murphy)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2231.jpg

Ended up being a P0135 code ....Sensor1 Bank1 (Upstream o2 Sensor)
Picked up a new one with the return of the core Alternator I still had.
Sprayed the old one down....and gave it a turn with the wrench, and THIS happens....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2227.jpg

The wires LITERALLY just fell out of the plug.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2229.jpg

Strange how they're all right about the same length.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2236.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2237.jpg

Old vs. New
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2232.jpg

New one is in.
I reset the adaptive memory of the ECU, and started getting it up to operating temp.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2235.jpg

I'm thinking this may have SOMETHING to do with the 11.5 +/- MPG I've been getting and the feeling of a sluggish engine.

NW99XJ
01-07-2013, 11:23 AM
Went wheeling in the snow New Years Day....
Full report can be found here:
http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?p=137504
WHAT AN ADVENTURE!!!!!

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2241.jpg

NW99XJ
01-09-2013, 04:18 PM
Taking the off-ramp on my way to work this morning...I hear this *CLUNK*CLUNK*CLUNK*CLUNK*CLUNK*CLUNK......
Pull into the gas station right there and found THIS:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG193.jpg

Limped it the extra mile into work, and had to figure out how i was gonna fix it....

:mad:(I JUST REPLACED these like SIX FRICKIN MONTHS AGO!):mad:


After running and getting a couple new U-joints, (thanks to a ride from a fellow Jeeper) ....I tried to opt for a quick fix and replace JUST the missing cap and snap ring, as the rest of the joint looked just fine.
Once I did though, I saw the reason that the previous cap had ejected itself.
(note the gap on the left side)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG195.jpg

Apparently the yoke on the short shaft side had one of the ears stretched out. Honestly it was probably like this for a while, but slowly getting worse and worse since that one night up at my friend Bens house and the 20 tons of press force it took to get the old OEM joint out back in April/May.

We (crazymoose & I) ended up heading out to 205 Auto Salvage http://www.205autosalvage.com/
where I have gone several times for JY Jeep parts. They have the largest inventory of XJ's anywhere in my area. Ended up running into Ryan R. from Bri & Bub Offroad down there...funny seeing another Jeeper I know out of the blue at the JY like that.
Cori has taken good care of me there in the past because I've sent her so much business over the years. This time was no exception. I ended up pulling out a whole PS shaft assembly (outer/bearing/joint/inner) and got it for a great discounted price. Even got a free T-shirt out of the whole deal!
Came back to work, and opted to install the whole JY assembly instead of wasting the time (right now) rebuilding it all. - I'll do that at home this weekend.
The drive home proved that the JY parts were good enough to commute on, at least for the rest of the week. I really have no intentions of testing their integrity on the trail....so the rebuild will happen sooner than later. I'll keep the old parts as emergency trail spares.
>
I want to make sure that Jason (crazymoose) gets a HUGE THANK YOU for coming out and helping. Although his bruised leg prevented him from doing much wrench turning (its a one man job really anyways) ...his arrival with jack, stands, and a few of the larger sockets I didn't have with me, plus the ride to & from the JY, proved to be the difference between getting this job done, and the Jeep sitting for gawd knows how long here at my work.... So thanks again brother.... I owe you one!

4.3LXJ
01-09-2013, 06:57 PM
Good thing that didn't happen on the trail a week ago Josh

dragordie
01-10-2013, 05:01 AM
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
I come from the school of those who take pride in their workmanship....it seems to be a dying trait.

I would have to agree with you on that (dying trait)
I am on my 19th jeep build in the last 12 years and I also take a lot of pride in my wiring using looms and Ts everywhere. I know that If I have a failure on the trail it's not due to wiring getting caught up and wound around some moving part.
Keep up the old school way of doing things right the first time!!

NW99XJ
01-11-2013, 08:43 AM
Good thing that didn't happen on the trail a week ago Josh

YEA NO DOUBT! - I was thinking the same thing as I was going thru all this.
I really dont want to test the integrity of this junkyard assembly on the trail either - and with a long distance snow run coming up, I need to get this rebuilt and dialed in this weekend, or its not going to happen.
I also think I need to do a TRE swap, (the ones on the donor Tie Rod I think are worn.) - So I'll just swap them out for the ones I had on there before, they're relatively new, so I'll keep these as emergency trail spares.
I'm also going to take some time and tighten things up in and around the control arms, take a look at the shock mounts, and give everything a good once over....cant be too careful or prepared when it comes to a long distance snow run - especially since I'm bringing the family this time.

4.3LXJ
01-11-2013, 10:44 AM
Yeah, the women in your life don't like broke and rarely like stuck

Carves
01-11-2013, 02:38 PM
Just in case your still pondering that switch in the battery box ....

Its a temp switch apparently ...
The PCM varies/limits ... the charge rate accordingly.

NW99XJ
01-15-2013, 10:24 AM
Taking the off-ramp on my way to work this morning...I hear this *CLUNK*CLUNK*CLUNK*CLUNK*CLUNK*CLUNK......
Pull into the gas station right there and found THIS:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG193.jpg

Limped it the extra mile into work, and had to figure out how i was gonna fix it....

:mad:(I JUST REPLACED these like SIX FRICKIN MONTHS AGO!):mad:


After running and getting a couple new U-joints, (thanks to a ride from a fellow Jeeper) ....I tried to opt for a quick fix and replace JUST the missing cap and snap ring, as the rest of the joint looked just fine.
Once I did though, I saw the reason that the previous cap had ejected itself.
(note the gap on the left side)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG195.jpg

Apparently the yoke on the short shaft side had one of the ears stretched out. Honestly it was probably like this for a while, but slowly getting worse and worse since that one night up at my friend Bens house and the 20 tons of press force it took to get the old OEM joint out back in April/May.

We (crazymoose & I) ended up heading out to 205 Auto Salvage http://www.205autosalvage.com/
where I have gone several times for JY Jeep parts. They have the largest inventory of XJ's anywhere in my area. Ended up running into Ryan R. from Bri & Bub Offroad down there...funny seeing another Jeeper I know out of the blue at the JY like that.
Cori has taken good care of me there in the past because I've sent her so much business over the years. This time was no exception. I ended up pulling out a whole PS shaft assembly (outer/bearing/joint/inner) and got it for a great discounted price. Even got a free T-shirt out of the whole deal!
Came back to work, and opted to install the whole JY assembly instead of wasting the time (right now) rebuilding it all. - I'll do that at home this weekend.
The drive home proved that the JY parts were good enough to commute on, at least for the rest of the week. I really have no intentions of testing their integrity on the trail....so the rebuild will happen sooner than later. I'll keep the old parts as emergency trail spares.
>
I want to make sure that Jason (crazymoose) gets a HUGE THANK YOU for coming out and helping. Although his bruised leg prevented him from doing much wrench turning (its a one man job really anyways) ...his arrival with jack, stands, and a few of the larger sockets I didn't have with me, plus the ride to & from the JY, proved to be the difference between getting this job done, and the Jeep sitting for gawd knows how long here at my work.... So thanks again brother.... I owe you one!

So the following weekend I did the rebuild, it was a good thing too, because by the time the end of the week rolled around, that donor JY axle assembly was making some serious noise.
So that Friday Night, I tore into it. Pulled the tire, removed the caliper, the hub nut, the rotor and unit bearing, and pulled the junk yard assembly out to tear it down. Now that that was out I could work on the tear down of my old axle assembly. The hub nut was the first thing that needed to come off...this is where the first problem arose.....
Not having the drive train of the vehicle to give me leverage, I had to turn to my biggest pry-bar to give me something to wrench against....It didnt make it.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2283_zps02e30601.jpg

I did manage to get the hub nut off though, and I was able to finish the tear down of the old axle using my trusty Harbor Freight press tool.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2284_zpsbd460531.jpg

All in all, it was in pretty good shape, I did find one broken needle bearing though inside one of the caps.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2287_zps9f9e2bfe.jpg

The JY axle U-joints didnt come out as easy, again I was in a position where I was running out of torque. I didnt have a vice, so I was doing all this with my press tool on the floor. I called up a few local Jeepers and my buddy Brandon came thru. "Yea man, c'mon over-you can use my vice!" I brought the donor axle over and tore it down with ease using my press tool in his vice. I cleaned it up and pressed in the new joints with ease.
Finished assembly ready to go in:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2288_zps95108d5b.jpg

Remember when I said that JY axle assembly was making some noise there at the end?...yea.....here's why:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2289_zps6653935a.jpg

Two of the caps lost their needle bearings. And were rusted into the axle well enough that they stayed put, but the U-joint itself was bouncing around inside the caps....GOOD TIMES!

The new assembly went in and I buttoned everything back up.
All ready for the road and trail now!:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2290_zps9ab93af6.jpg

When I was putting everything back together, I noticed something strange about my PS bump-stop.....it was hanging at a weird angle.
Upon further inspection I saw that it was basically destroyed.
I pulled it out in a powdery, crumbly mess. Gonna have to take of this pretty soon. (stay tuned!)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2291_zps24ed0b51.jpg

NW99XJ
01-22-2013, 02:59 PM
So for weeks I've been fighting an issue with my front end. It;s been wandering pretty bad on the freeway, grabbing ruts, and diving to one side or another. I've also had some "clunky-rattling-knocking" sound coming from what sounds like the body side of the control arm mounts.
In addition to that, my oil pressure had been diving to near zero sometimes, after it's up to operating temp.....and only at idle. After verifying I had the proper amount of oil in the system, I narrowed it down to either the oil pump, or the oil pressure sending unit.
After closer examination of the plug at the sending unit, I confirmed it was indeed the switch.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2297_zpsfe31c024.jpg

I swapped that out for a new one as well as some new plugs.
The old ones had been in there for long enough, I figured it was due time.
They weren't in too bad of shape. A little dry fouling and the electrode was definitely showing signs of wear.
(new vs. old)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2303_zps035e6e63.jpg

The plugs were double checked for gap (.035") and got a treatment of anti-seize.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2305_zpsd9891322.jpg

I figured it was also due time to swap out my rear hatch struts.
They were shot, and I was tired of holding it up with clamps or having it nail me in the head. Brandon had kicked me down a pair from after he chopped the rear of his XJ and no longer needed them.
The problem was, that they come off an old model, and weren't compatible with my new model's upper mounts. (I thought about modifying them - but passed)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2300_zps4f65bdf8.jpg

I picked up a new pair for just under $40...not bad, prob could've gotten them cheaper elsewhere, but frankly I'm just glad I dont have to hold the rear gate with my head anymore.
Now, back to the track bar issue and undercarriage clunking........
After thoroughly examining all the control arm mounts and bolts, and verifying that they were all still quite tight, I moved on to the track bar mounts.
Having the girl get in and crank the wheel back and forth, I noticed the track bar move at the axle...."well that aint good...."
Found the culprit:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2307_zpsc07b09a0.jpg

The bolt was plenty tight, its just the hole has been wallowed out a bit.
I'll eventually reinforce the front of that, and maybe press a tube all the way thru to the other side instead of just having the bolt rest on the mounting flange.
For now, though, some larger hardware will do.
I found one of the old studs for my front OEM sway-bar....and hammered it in place.
Nice and tight for now.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2308_zpsc0a6827c.jpg

The steering isnt quite as bad, it still wanders a little bit, and I'm not sure why. Its not as bad as it was, but its still there. The clunking is still there too. I think the flex joints may need to be adjusted and/or rebuilt. I'll be looking into that this weekend.

NW99XJ
01-31-2013, 11:39 PM
Well when it rains it pours.....
I'm beginning to think my front end hates me, or has some sort of sick twisted vendetta against me, I mean it's not like I have abused it all THAT much....
Oh sure, I've torn its face off, and shaved a lunchbox down its throat, bounced it off a rock or two.....but that ain't nuthin but love right there.....

So as I was driving it home from work this afternoon, I heard my front axle have a temper tantrum, then watched as it ejected a cap from the drivers side U-joint, seeing it bounce down the freeway behind me at speed. GOOD TIMES!
I swear this frickin front end is cursed......UGH!

Yea something doesn't look right.....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG219.jpg

Yup.....There it is....or isn't....whatever.....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG221.jpg

Limped it the last couple miles home, go to swap in the spare I had and on the short shaft side......
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG222.jpg

And the caps just press right in by hand......that ain't right!!!.....
MVI 2309 - YouTube

So panic mode sets in.....gotta work tomorrow, no other ride.
I make a call to my buddy with a TJ, he installed a super 30 kit this last spring, and kept his old stuff. I hit him up for one of his spare outters, and he was happy to oblige, THANKS FINGERZ!
An hour later I had a replacement shaft:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2310.jpg

The one GOOD shaft he had was of course the PS....so I had to tear apart the assembly he dropped off to put on my DS shaft and the extra U-joint I had.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2311.jpg

Everything went pretty well, all things considered.
Whats an impromptu Jeep project without a little blood letting?
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2312.jpg

At least I was able to get everything in and done, and have it back on the road for my commute in tomorrow.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2313.jpg

I think some Chromoly Shafts are going to be on the short list now.

4.3LXJ
01-31-2013, 11:45 PM
I gotta tell ya, I used to live up there and open knuckle front ends and unit bearings don't like that mud.

Rayburne
02-01-2013, 02:09 AM
Nice hood ornament

NW99XJ
02-02-2013, 09:38 PM
Nice hood ornament

Thanks!
You'll see more of her up there this summer.

NW99XJ
02-07-2013, 04:32 PM
The replacement lower track bar bushing came in yesterday, picked it up from 4wheel parts (because rugged ridge doesnt sell to the public.)
Took it home and got to work on the swap.
Pressed/pryed out the old....and compared it to the new:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2318.jpg

The old bushings apparently got worn pretty quick, turned a little soft, and one edge got eaten away a bit. Also the metal sleeve in the center had ovaled out, and the clearance hole for it in both halves was wallowed out as well.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2320.jpg

With the old bushings out, I removed the rest of the track bar, and took it over to the vice to begin the installation. The bushings were greased and pressed in: (sorry for the lack of focus here - but you get the point)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2321.jpg

I wasnt about to install this new hardware into a mount with a wallowed out hole. And since the old metal sleeve was so ovaled out, I couldn't use the larger hardware I had shoved in there on the new bushing/sleeve set-up. With the smaller hardware in the mount it was like throwing a hot dog down a hallway.... SO I opted to do what I have seen done on other builds and re-enforce the front of the mount with a metal plate and a freshly drilled (smaller) hole.

I dont have stock piles of metal plate laying around, so I had to use some ol' fashioned ingenuity...the cut up oem control arm I had laying around would serve well enough to give me just enough metal to accomplish what I needed.
It was placed in the vice, and using my grinder with a cut-off wheel I removed the donor metal....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2322.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2323.jpg

I then hammered, and clamped it straight, Viced it up one more time and drilled the new clearance hole: (again, sorry for the lack of focus)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2324.jpg

I then wire wheeled it clean, and trimmed it to its final shape. Using the mounting hardware for the track bar I clamped it in place and did my best impersonation of someone who knows how to weld. Satisfied with my ability to grotesquely tack two pieces of metal together, I spray painted it for protection.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2325.jpg

I know its ugly as sin, but that metal ain't goin' nowhere..... It'll more than likely all end up getting cut off eventually anyways for when I do a steering upgrade, and have to modify the track bar, and mount it higher up on the axle.

The road test the next morning proved to be a much better ride than in recent past. MOST of the wobble is gone, but I can still feel the degradation of the TRE's....they're next on the list.

4.3LXJ
02-07-2013, 05:28 PM
Trials and tribulations of wheeling. The stock stuff just doesn't stand up to it for very long. I see you are due to add metal now. So was I, which is why I scrapped the old stock stuff

NW99XJ
02-20-2013, 12:59 PM
Parts ordered, confirmed, shipped and ON THEIR WAY!!!!

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/TREs.jpg

TO GO ALONG WITH THOSE....
THESE ARE ON THEIR WAY!!!!!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/1TON-BARS-1.png

So hopefully by this time next week, I will be on 1-ton steering.
Total with shipping i'm out of pocket only 210.37 for everything so far.
The final part will be the track bar relocation bracket....
Which I may fab myself, we'll see.

IT'll be plenty beefy, 1.25" DOM with 1/4" wall.
.....I COULD have just ordered the raw tube from somewhere,
then brought it here (to work)...cut it to length, then reamed and tapped the ends...
BUT I would have had to buy the reamer, and tap (we dont have anything quite that big here)....and didn't want to bother with the added expense.
I have been sitting on a $100 JCR Credit for a while now, and figured this would be the perfect use for it.
Hell, that's $100 off the tubing, AND all the machining work is already done for me!

I WILL BE making my own poly bushing though for the PS TRE....
It'll look just like this: (photo's courtesy of JCR Offroad)
http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/steeringbushinginstalled.jpg

NW99XJ
03-12-2013, 05:07 PM
So after getting my Tie Rod ends in a timely fashion, and after much waiting for my bars. The Brown Truck Santa came thru FINALLY!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG259.jpg

Damn Right Made in USA!!!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG260.jpg

I had been planning on just making one, but JCR was nice enough to just throw one in.....Bonus Poly Spacer FTW
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG261.jpg

I brought the rod ends in to work with me today, as I was expecting this delivery.
I quickly mocked up the layout and I like what I see!!!!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG264.jpg

Pure Beef!!!!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG263.jpg

I just got enough thread engagement to hold the stuff together for now. I'll get it all dialed in when I take the old stuff off. There will be PLENTY of thread engagement that's for sure.
I still need to source a couple Jam Nuts. 7/8"-18 is hard to find...not really an industry standard. I know Ballistic Fab has 'em, and I could prob talk JCR into sending me a couple if need be too. I'll need one for each end of the drag link, so that's going to be one left hand thread, and one right hand thread.

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG262.jpg

This isn't going to get installed right away either.
I'm going to do a Durango steering box swap, and prob go with something like the C-Rok brace or TNT Customs 4 hole steering box brace.
If i went with the TNT one, I'd most likely do a YJ (4-hole) steering box vs. the Durango.
The only other thing up in the air is going to be the track bar.....
And I wont know what I'm going to do with that until after all this is installed.
STAY TUNED!

NW99XJ
03-21-2013, 10:35 AM
Just ordered a Durango Steering Box....
Fully rebuilt/reconditioned with 100% new O-rings and lip seals.
All new Teflon rings are added to valve(s)
Internals are surface honed to OE specifications or better.
Air leak tested for performance reliability.
Hydraulically Tested for Bypass/Hi-Pressure.
Road simulation tested.
Drag link load/shear tested.
Lifetime Warranty.
$125 shipped....
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1997-1999-Dodge-Durango-Dakota-Power-STEERING-GEAR-BOX-/00/s/MTA2NlgxNjAw/$(KGrHqNHJBEE8+f-ssi3BP(kcGzYzQ~~60_12.JPG

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1997-1999-Dodge-Durango-Dakota-Power-STEERING-GEAR-BOX-/00/s/MTA2NlgxNjAw/$(KGrHqFHJBkE9!LHovsdBP(kb5H3!w~~60_12.JPG

Should be here middle of next week at the latest.
Jam Nuts for the bars are on their way......
Now all that's left is the plate/spacer....and a brace.

4.3LXJ
03-21-2013, 10:48 AM
That will give you some extra push

Brasscatz
03-21-2013, 07:12 PM
So what year range Durango works best? I'm thinking late 90s? V8?

XJ Wheeler
03-22-2013, 12:29 AM
So you pulled the trigger on it. I bookmarked that link. Let me know how it turns out.

NW99XJ
03-22-2013, 02:09 PM
That will give you some extra push
Yea, I think so.... and I may do an overdrive pulley on the pump here soon too..... that'll wake things up!


So what year range Durango works best? I'm thinking late 90s? V8?
98-99 5.2L or 5.9L V8
And (typically) one from a vehicle that does NOT have the "snow plow package"
(I know...sounds weird....thats just what "they" say)


So you pulled the trigger on it. I bookmarked that link. Let me know how it turns out.
Yea, I sure did dint I?! lol
Will do.... I'm planning on doing a full, Pic-Heavy write up on the whole thing..... comparison, installation, and review.
>
>
>
On a side note, I think I have made up my mind on the spacer.
As you all know the stock XJ steering box spacer is made out of some pretty shotty aluminum. The purpose of the spacer is to not only "space" the main part of the round gear box body away from the flat face of the unibody, but to provide some degree of shear force distribution across that area....the stock one does a pretty piss-poor job of this.
I have done as much research as I can on this.... Looked at virtually ALL the available aftermarket spacers that are out there, and made my comparisons.
Now before I go further, let me state that there are some "kits" out there that would do one helluva job of reinforcing the whole front quarter of the unibody rails on both sides.....
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/9/6/962.jpg

Thats not what I'm going for on this.
The inner spacer only is all I need at this point. The winch bumper that will eventually go on, will take care of the rest of the reinforcement. And I dont want there to be any interference with the unibody Tie-In of the bumper and the outer plate of a kit like that, or one of the more simpler ones like this:
(TNT Customs - 4 bolt conversion kit - for switching to a YJ box)
http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/images/tnt-tt-1012.jpg

Although that one WAS on my radar, and near the top of my list, I am still worried about interference in the future with the bumper.

Iron Rock Offroad has one, decent price, powder coated, looks cool.....
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/sgs1.jpg

Many guys have gone with the JCR inner brace/spacer. Mainly because its one of the least inexpensive.....
http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/XJ-SteeringSpacer1.jpg

I like JCR's stuff....I have some of their stuff.....
But in my research I found a spacer bracket, without the outer plate, and that has something that the JCR plate doesnt......
Enter......the C-Rok Inner Steering Reinforcement Plate:
http://c-rok4x4.com/Products/InsidePlate.jpg

This plate is made like many of the others, but offers one advantage....
The addition of three "Through-Frame Bolt-Spacer-Sleeves"....
These three sleeves tie the two sides of the unibody frame rail together, greatly increasing the strength of the system as a whole.

Later with the addition of a winch bumper, the outer side will be tied into this as well, and the entire area will be rock solid.
The only other piece to the puzzle is going to be a steering box brace, which crosses over to the passenger side frame rail.....
I wont be getting that right away, as it can be installed after the fact at any time, but I WILL be getting it before any MAJOR wheeling runs.

NW99XJ
03-22-2013, 03:22 PM
Jam nuts JUST Arrived!!!!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG284.jpg

Thank You RUFF STUFF!!!!!!!!!!!

bluedragon436
03-22-2013, 03:25 PM
I forgot about the C-rok unit... I was actually looking at that one when I first started looking at the Dango gearbox swap... I liked the through frame spacers... will tie in nicely with an outer brace to make that the strongest section of the "frame" on the whole XJ.. LOL...

XJ Wheeler
03-22-2013, 03:49 PM
Write-up sounds great, thanks.

Yeah, i forgot i was gonna mention C-rok the other day. They were one of the first companies to make a plate for these. That's always stuck with me.

NW99XJ
03-29-2013, 04:35 PM
Been an eventful week as far as deliveries go.
My Durango Steering Box arrived....in not so good of packaging.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG309.jpg

The seller (Detroit Axle) had basically thown the box in a box, and thrown THAT box in another box, and called it good.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG306.jpg

Neither box was in all that great of condition.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG304.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG308.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG303.jpg

At least it was still "contained" in the boxes.....and there was no damage.
The gear box has a good coat of paint on it, (prob just primer) and shows no signs of damage (ie; shiny metal, damaged threads, broken/bent ears, etc...)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2384.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2383.jpg

Overall I'm happy (enough) with the product I received.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2382.jpg

I DID contact the seller....let them know the UPS driver even had to make a note on the account of the condition of the packaging, and shared with them the pictures above..... They since have changed their policies on shipping items, and have started to include some additional protection in their packaging.

Also arriving this week was my inner steering box spacer/support bracket from C-Rok.
Just as beefy as I was expecting!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG319.jpg

This will get a fresh coat of primer and paint this weekend along with the bars.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG320.jpg

That means all the pieces of the puzzle are finally here, and as soon as I track down a reamer.....I'll be getting to work.

4.3LXJ
03-29-2013, 05:07 PM
Hey Josh, it might be an optical delusion, but that round end for the hydraulic piston doesn't look big enough. Better compare it to the one you have. There should be quite a difference

nickyg
03-29-2013, 05:39 PM
I want to do the durango swap on mine too. I'm keeping my eye on this thread. Do you Have the part number handy? Thanks for sharing.

XJ Wheeler
03-30-2013, 03:41 AM
Gonna be a sweet setup, bud. No more need to worry about the strength of it once its done, that's for sure.

NW99XJ
04-01-2013, 12:06 PM
Hey Josh, it might be an optical delusion, but that round end for the hydraulic piston doesn't look big enough. Better compare it to the one you have. There should be quite a difference
I think it is an optical illusion, the pic was taken on a very long box on the rear seat of the XJ....with the angles and everything it makes it look smaller than it really is. I can take a measurement of the bore and post it up, but I figured I will just wait till I'm ready to install it.
Thanks for the heads up though.


I want to do the durango swap on mine too. I'm keeping my eye on this thread. Do you Have the part number handy? Thanks for sharing.

I dont have the exact part number, but here's the link to the place I got mine from:
E-Bay Durango Box (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-1999-Dodge-Durango-Dakota-Power-STEERING-GEAR-BOX-/150975156505?)



Gonna be a sweet setup, bud. No more need to worry about the strength of it once its done, that's for sure.
Thats the plan..... From what I have read this setup is plenty strong enough to not worry about pushing 33's out of the rocks. We'll see, I'll be taking alot of pics and prob some video too, on the shake-down run after the install!

NW99XJ
04-01-2013, 12:23 PM
$40 every other day in gas after many many months has led me to retire the Cherokee from DD status.
As of this weekend (03/31/2013) The Jeep is now a dedicated trail rig.
$400 a month JUST to get to & from work wasn't cutting it.... I have hated throwing all that money away, when it could be going towards the build fund.
After weeks and weeks of searching and inspecting vehicles that had no business being up for sale, I finally found one that I could settle on.
Enter a completely unmolested 1996 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl, 5sp, air, cruise, power everything, and in great shape,
PLUS it has had all the major stuff already done to it by a certified Honda Service Tech.
Clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate, head gasket, valve cover gasket, struts, brakes, water pump, timing chain, etc...etc....
It's immaculate under the hood, and drives like a dream.
New 80k mile tires, and best of all 32+ MPG.
Picked it up for less than he was asking, and couldn't be happier.
I figure with the money I'll be saving on this, It will have paid for itself in a matter of 6 to 8 months.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2389.jpg

nickyg
04-01-2013, 01:03 PM
$40 every other day in gas after many many months has led me to retire the Cherokee from DD status.
As of this weekend (03/31/2013) The Jeep is now a dedicated trail rig.
$400 a month JUST to get to & from work wasn't cutting it.... I have hated throwing all that money away, when it could be going towards the build fund.
After weeks and weeks of searching and inspecting vehicles that had no business being up for sale, I finally found one that I could settle on.
Enter a completely unmolested 1996 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl, 5sp, air, cruise, power everything, and in great shape,
PLUS it has had all the major stuff already done to it by a certified Honda Service Tech.
Clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate, head gasket, valve cover gasket, struts, brakes, water pump, timing chain, etc...etc....
It's immaculate under the hood, and drives like a dream.
New 80k mile tires, and best of all 32+ MPG.
Picked it up for less than he was asking, and couldn't be happier.
I figure with the money I'll be saving on this, It will have paid for itself in a matter of 6 to 8 months.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2389.jpg



Have you ordered the lift kit for it yet?

4.3LXJ
04-01-2013, 04:10 PM
He could put a fart can on it :D

Brasscatz
04-01-2013, 06:41 PM
He could put a fart can on it :D

Matter of fact, I have one I'll let go for cheap! $20 buyer pays shipping :D

Came off a Mazda 3 at one of my dealerships and they were going to throw it out, so being the pack rat that I am, I brought it home :rolleye0012:

4.3LXJ
04-01-2013, 06:50 PM
Matter of fact, I have one I'll let go for cheap! $20 buyer pays shipping :D

Came off a Mazda 3 at one of my dealerships and they were going to throw it out, so being the pack rat that I am, I brought it home :rolleye0012:

You could put it on your XJ and go race a civic :P

Brasscatz
04-01-2013, 06:57 PM
You could put it on your XJ and go race a civic :P

believe me I thought about it! It gives a deeper tone than most obnoxious fart cans. Too bad it's a big cylinder and would compromise a lot of ground clearance lol

NW99XJ
04-02-2013, 09:41 AM
YOU GUYS ARE CRACKIN ME UP!!!
No no..... there will be no fart cans on this one.... That whole "ricer" phase is long gone....I got that out of my system a long time ago.
I will be tinting the windows, and I MAY put some aftermarket wheels on it....but that's as far as it will go.
It will need a new muffler before summer is over though probably, but I will most likely go with a OEM Replacement, or maybe something like a Dynomax.... something that gives it a TINY bit more throat, without looking like there's a sewer pipe shoved under there.
It already has newer struts on it, and being a Honda, handles fairly well anyways. I'm not going to mess with the suspension.
I will upgrade the stereo in it, as I have a pretty long commute, and have been an audiophile all my life....so that will be the only thing that gets really "messed with."
Other than that, I may take care of a few door dings, and perhaps even go so far as have some of the rock chips in the hood dealt with (repaint)
....but honestly, I'm just happy to have a comfortable ride, and great gas mileage.


I DID however, spend some time last weekend, and put an alarm in it, with Keyless entry, hood and trunk triggers, starter kill, and dome light supervision.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2385.jpg

NW99XJ
04-27-2013, 10:30 PM
UPDATE:
Ok for those of you who listen to the XJ Talk Show, you would have heard all the gory details of how this extensive steering upgrade project has been going.... For your viewing pleasure, and to bring everyone else up to speed...... better get comfy...this is gonna take a while.

__________________________________________________ ________

The plan: to convert my current ZJ Steering set-up to a 1-ton Over The Knuckle Inverted "T" - Using GM 1-ton Tie Rod Ends, and JCR's 1.25" Diameter 1/4" wall DOM bars that are already cut to length and tapped. This conversion is also including a Durango Steering box upgrade, C-Rok inner brace with thru-frame inserts and grade-8 hardware. A cross frame steering box brace will be coming in the near future as well, but for now let me bring you up to speed on the install progress.....

I knew all along that I was going to paint the bars, so I wanted to make sure that I did all that I could in prep, to ensure the paint would stick, and hold up well enough.
Some grease & wax remover works very well for clearing off any excess coolant/oils from the cutting/machining of the bars:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2409.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2409.jpg.html)

Making sure to wipe them down real good and vigorously with some Scott Shop Towels:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2410.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2410.jpg.html)

After that the oxidation and whatever else was cleaned off, and the surface was roughed up with some red Scotch Brite to give the primer a chance for good adhesion.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2411.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2411.jpg.html)

For painting metal, a good Self Etching Primer is the best choice.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2413.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2413.jpg.html)

Several overlapping coats of this went on to create a nice, strong, high build. About 5-10 min in between coats did the trick.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2412.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2412.jpg.html)

Next up was the actual paint, for my build I couldnt think of a more appropriate color than hot pink:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2414.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2414.jpg.html)

Of course if you have spent ANY amount of time reading this build thread or know me personally, you would have seen right thru this, and would know that I would never do such a thing, and that was just for a laugh....
Black all the way baby!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2416.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2416.jpg.html)

The strong automotive grade acrylic paint went on easy. I took my time, and did many many coats, making sure to let it set for a good 10 min in between coats.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2415.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2415.jpg.html)

This of course ate the time away pretty fast, but the results are pretty good.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2422.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2422.jpg.html)

Mmmmm....shiny.....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2423.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2423.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
04-27-2013, 10:31 PM
Now that all the prep work was done, it was time to get to work on the reaming that was required.
The Moog ES2233L is the passenger side TRE that connects the knuckle and the draglink together to create the “Inverted-T” set-up. This hole does not come large enough out of the box to accept the corresponding rod end of the drag link, and needs to be reamed to get it to fit. Slow speed, and low temperature is the key here….taking precaution to keep your angles right, and use lots and lots of cutting oil.
The reamer required is a 1.5” per /foot or 7° taper.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2425.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2425.jpg.html)

After that was done, I moved on to the Jeep, and started removing all the old steering linkages, and get everything out of the way to make room for the new stuff.
The Steering dampener was removed:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2426.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2426.jpg.html)

The cotter pins were removed from the TRE’s
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2437.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2437.jpg.html)

And the best/easiest way to remove the TRE from the knuckles is to use a BFH:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2438.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2438.jpg.html)

The last thing to do was to remove the drag link from the pitman arm:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2427.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2427.jpg.html)

Then it was time to remove the pitman arm from the steering box……
I knew this was going to be a chore….. I had no idea just how much of a royal PITA this really is.
I tried for three hours, reefing, pulling, hammering, heating, bashing, banging, and lubing…..nothing.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2428.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2428.jpg.html)

I decided to give up, and let the penetrating oils do their thing with the pitman arm puller still attached and at a hairs breath away from completely grenading under the extreme pressure I had put on it.
There it sat, overnight.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2430.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2430.jpg.html)

The next morning I started in on it again…applying what can only be described as a thermo-nuclear device worth of heat to it, and enough swings of the BFH to bring down the Empire State Building.
If you are going to try to remove YOUR pitman arm…… these are the BARE MINIMUM for tools you will need.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2436.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2436.jpg.html)

Now with enough effort, applied heat, time with penetrating oil, and one helluva swing enough times with the BFH you will have success. Be warned, you will most likely toast the seal on the box with the torch. (no biggie for me, as the whole box was getting replaced anyways.)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2431.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2431.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
04-27-2013, 10:32 PM
OK, so now that everything was off and out of the way, I could finish the reaming.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2439.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2439.jpg.html)

The knuckles were last on the list, as I knew they were going to take the longest.
Again, slow RPM's and a ton of cutting oil.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2440.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2440.jpg.html)

After the knuckles were properly reamed, I moved on to the removal and re-installation side of things.
The old steering box was first on my list, In order to take it out, you first want to loosen the retaining bolt on the shaft.
This little guy right here:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2442.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2442.jpg.html)

Once that's sufficiently loose, you can move on to the three main bolts that mount the box to the frame.
In my case, since I had relocated my horns, the one on the Driver's side, was in the way of the upper left most bolt.
(seen top center-ish of this pic)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2443.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2443.jpg.html)

So with the horn removed, I was able to get to all the bolts with ease.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2444.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2444.jpg.html)

They had been thoroughly drenched several times in PB blaster for days from all sides, so I was somewhat confident that I wasnt going to have too much difficulty removing them. With a little help from a breaker bar they came out with ease.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2446.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2446.jpg.html)

I left the mounting bolts in about half way so that I still had some leverage to remove the two steering fluid lines from the top side of the box.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2447.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2447.jpg.html)

Once off, I just routed them up and over the pump/reservoir to keep them out of the way, and from draining all over the place.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2448.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2448.jpg.html)

The old OEM Box was removed and after bleeding all over the place it was set side by side with its replacement.
OLD (obviously left) NEW (obviously) right
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2452.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2452.jpg.html)

The differences are subtle, but they're there.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2453.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2453.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
04-27-2013, 10:33 PM
I'm sure many of you have seen the comparrisons of the OEM steering box spacer, and the aftermarket ones.
The C-Rok inner brace/spacer is by far way more beefy than that flimsy stock one.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2455.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2455.jpg.html)

I had been a little worried, that I would find some sort of stress crack, or something on the frame rail by the steering box.
I was very glad to see, that everything checked out just fine.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2456.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2456.jpg.html)

Getting the new box installed wasn't all that difficult, but it was a a little awkward, due to the size and weight of the thing, and me working alone.
First thing was first, I cleaned everything up and started knocking in the inner frame sleeves for the mounting bolts of the new box.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2457.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2457.jpg.html)

These sleeves are going to add strength to the area as a whole, and tie in the outer to the inner sides of the unibody right there, to increase the shear strength at each mounting point.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2458.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2458.jpg.html)

With the sleeves in place and pressed in nice and flush, I slid the new spacer bracket into place and fed in the new grade 8 hardware.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2459.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2459.jpg.html)

The box was fenagled into place, and the hardware threaded in.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2501.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2501.jpg.html)

The splined input shaft of the steering boxes have a flat spot.
….This is where the retaining bolt of the mating sleeve from the shaft will lock down onto
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2460.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2460.jpg.html)

Matching up the flat spots, you will have enough room so get the shaft from the steering column onto the input shaft of the box.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2461.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2461.jpg.html)

With that done the lines can be hooked back up.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2504.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2504.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
04-27-2013, 10:33 PM
At this point my garage was a compete disaster area, but my work was nowhere near done.
I knew I had some major modifications to do to the axle, but I wanted to get all the new linkage put together so I could start mocking it into position. Here I am (with camera in a shaky camera hand) rod in vice, and tie rod end getting screwed into its new home.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2466.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2466.jpg.html)

As I was doing all this, I came across a great photo-op that I couldn't pass up and I figured I would share.
This picture gives you a good idea of the level of strength you get from stepping up from one to the next.
Here is all three phases of my steering build's rod ends, side by side.
From Left to Right..... Stock XJ TRE on RC Tie Rod / ZJ TRE on ZJ Tie Rod / GM 1-Ton TRE all by itself.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2441.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2441.jpg.html)

The stock XJ steering linkage in comparison to the new stuff would be a joke, besides, I think I threw it out long ago anyways.....
Here is the ZJ set-up next to the new 1.25OD 1/4” wall DOM tubing and 1-ton TRE's
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2467.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2467.jpg.html)

Trust me, its a massive difference:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2467.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2467.jpg.html)

Now that I was done playing around, I got out the grinder and cut off wheels, and went to town on my D30.
The sway bar end link, axle side mounts MUST be removed for clearance sake. I cut off the majority of the end link mount, leaving the lower most section still on, to retain some strength to the coil bucket mount.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2469.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2469.jpg.html)

Next up was the steering stabilizer mount, that too has to go.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2470.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2470.jpg.html)

These are all just rough cuts, again, just to get to the point where I can start mocking things into place.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2471.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2471.jpg.html)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2472.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2472.jpg.html)

Once I had things roughly cut enough to get the new linkage mocked into position, I mounted it all up (just set into place really - not torqued down) to have a look.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2473.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2473.jpg.html)

Yes I know, my pretty paint job was partially ruined by the need to clamp down the bars, to get the rod ends threaded in enough.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2474.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2474.jpg.html)

It's apparent that I need to do more cutting/trimming:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2475.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2475.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
04-27-2013, 10:34 PM
I cut some more, then cut some more, and I ground things down pretty good too.....
I got it good enough that I could move the steering thru most of its range, so I decided to start torquing everything down.
The 4 different rod ends all come with grease zirks, cotter pins, and nuts for the tapered ends.
As I gathered them all up from their various boxes, I noticed that some were different.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2482.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2482.jpg.html)

I decided that the larger ones would best be served on the TIE ROD, and the smaller ones would go to the DRAG LINK
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2481.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2481.jpg.html)

With that little issue taken care of it was time to re-check everything and see how it looks all mocked up and into position......That's when I noticed the first problem......
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2477.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2477.jpg.html)

IF you cant tell.......The Tie Rod is interfering with the Track Bar....LAME!!!!!!!!!
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2476.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2476.jpg.html)

Thats not only going to cause issues with turning, but also in articulation.....The fix? OTA (Over The Axle)....
Yup, The fix is to relocate the track bar mount above the axle, and out of the way of the steering.
My choice for this is going to be either total custom fab (too extensive for me right now)
OR.... The Ruff Stuff Panhard Kit:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/graphics/00000001/panhard%20kit.jpg

I will most likely end up ordering the Ruff Stuff kit, I know a couple guys running this set up, and they have said its extremely strong, and easy to set up.
In any case, I figured I was screwed at this point, so I had best button things up so that I could at least get the Jeep drivable again (Somewhat) so that it could be taken to a place to do the more extensive fab work required to fix this.....
Thats when the second problem arose.....oh yea, it gets worse.....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2484.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2484.jpg.html)

Thats right, as soon as I go to mount the rim.....I find that it interferes with the tie rod end....ever so slightly.....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2485.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2485.jpg.html)

Its JUUUUST enough that when the wheel is torqued down, the tie rod end is biting into the wheel preventing it from turning.....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2486.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2486.jpg.html)

So now you're up to speed.......
I HAVE TO buy new wheels now.....I wouldn't feel comfortable running 1.5" spacers anyways, so thats really my only option at this point.

NW99XJ
04-27-2013, 10:54 PM
Now....I LOVE the Ravines on Cherokees.... I think they're one of the best looking rims out there for the XJ's.....
I would like to keep them.... but alas....my new steering says otherwise.....
So, what do I get? Steel seems to be the obvious choice,
BUT.....IF I WERE to go with steel wheels.... I have always had a soft spot for the Crager V-5 style.
Since I have a black Jeep...the black wheels (like the standard "Soft-8" style) have never looked quite right to me....too much black on a black Jeep.....
The V-5's though...in their "Silver" finish (color matches the Eco-5 and/or the Ravines color pretty close, look perfect...they provide a nice contrast.

http://www.hotrodhanks.com/imagesProducts4/9051.jpg

And they just look plain MEAN with some big meat on them!
http://i511.photobucket.com/albums/s359/fyrfytr1717/Jeep%20Center%20Caps%20on%20Cragar%20Steel%20Wheel s/100_8948.jpg

The above picture (second) is from a write up on NAXJA (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1027064) where a guy took these wheels and modified them to accept an OEM center cap
(eliminating the large bulgy plastic chrome one that they come with)
http://i511.photobucket.com/albums/s359/fyrfytr1717/Jeep%20Center%20Caps%20on%20Cragar%20Steel%20Wheel s/100_8969.jpg

I really like the look of that, and If I were to ever go this route, I would highly consider doing the same thing.... I would also weld on some wheel protectors or "rim stiffeners"....something KIND OF like these:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o228/drunkstu80/IMG_1117.jpg

Or more like THESE:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff278/dirtco/The%20Re-Build/P1000386.jpg

But probably something like THESE:
http://copperheadfab.com/images/products/Halfbuisness_020.jpg

The issue?
Crager has stopped making the Silver V5's....yup "DISCONTINUED"
So...allegedly there are still some floating around in inventories here and there.....seems like it would be a bit of trouble, and I WOULD HAVE TO buy FIVE right off the bat, just in case something were to ever happen to one, I have a back up.
The alternative?
I COULD go with the BLACK V5's.....
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/88548/88548-lg.jpg

And I suppose if I really wanted to shell out all the cash, I could strip them, and have them powder coated any color I want......but I feel like I would much rather spend the money else where.

The most likely scenario....is beadlocks, or at the VERY LEAST, fake beadlocks.
Like these:
http://lgcdn.jeep4x4center.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/r/cragar-wheels-352-series-street-lock-3527112_3258.jpg

So we'll see......my current set up is going up for sale here in the next few days....figure I should be able to get $400 for the four wheels and 33x12.50's even at 15%
THOUGHTS?

bigjim350
04-27-2013, 10:57 PM
ahh v5's. You wanna be like me dont ya?? :D

bigjim350
04-27-2013, 11:03 PM
Nah as far as steel wheels go I like the V5's cause not EVERYONE has them like the soft 8's and D windows.

4.3LXJ
04-28-2013, 09:20 AM
So, steering upgrades not so simple eh? I feel your pain. Been there

NW99XJ
05-21-2013, 11:18 AM
Ok, so as promised....pics of the RuffStuff Panhard Kit....
(Pure.... B E E F)

Before:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2511.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2511.jpg.html)

After: :D
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2513.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2513.jpg.html)

I'll be getting the assist from another Jeeper here this week to get it all welded together and welded up to the jeep.
(and HOPEFULLY) I'll have at least the new wheels, if not the wheels and tires here this week too! (fingers crossed)

NW99XJ
06-02-2013, 05:32 PM
The panhard kit sat around for a week or so, I posted up for some welding help, because although I can stick two pieces of metal together well enough, I wanted to make sure that the welds were as good as possible. So enlisting the help of someone with better welding skills than myself was the best way to go.
Several of you offered, but when it came to schedules and free time, hooking up with Brandon (ODGREENON35's) worked out best.

since the jeep was basically immovable, he graciously offered to come over to my place, bring HIS grinder, welder, AND gas.... I of course was extremely glad for his help.
Upon arriving, we got to work right away....
I finished off the removal of the old Rugged Ridge track bar kit, and he started in on prepping the bar.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2514.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2514.jpg.html)

The old track bar bracket was cut/grinded/shaved off and the new axle bracket was mocked into position, and we started looking at geometry, position, and taking measurements.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2515.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2515.jpg.html)

The brackets were just barely tacked into place, and we mocked the freshly cut bar and ends into place.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2516.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2516.jpg.html)

Once happy with the positioning, Brandon got to work on welding in the bungs for the heims.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2517.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2517.jpg.html)

After that he moved on to burning in the rest of the welds for the new brackets, and I started prepping the bar for paint.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2522.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2522.jpg.html)

Brandon's welds are awesome, seriously great work... Between his good work, and a far better (and gassed) welder than mine, I had very little cleanup work to get this ready for paint.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2523.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2523.jpg.html)

As I mentioned, I got the wrong frame side bracket, so there were some slight modifications that had to be made in order for it to work perfectly. After bouncing a couple ideas back and forth, Brandon continued with the work moving right on to burning it in.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2524.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2524.jpg.html)

After Brandon finished up and left, I went to work on clean up and painting everything.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2535.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2535.jpg.html)

Thanks to a lot of pre measuring, mocking up, and test fitting, the final installation went together real well.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2533.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2533.jpg.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2531.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2531.jpg.html)

The kit came with a little extra piece of metal, that was perfect for a little gusset.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2529.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2529.jpg.html)

The "ears" of the bracket were cut off as part of the modification to get it to work just right, and were re-purposed as reinforcements:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2528.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2528.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
06-02-2013, 05:33 PM
The finished product is awesome, a great looking and performing 1-ton OTK steering set-up.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2536.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2536.jpg.html)

Before:
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/7529/steeringupgrade036.jpg

After:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_2527.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_2527.jpg.html)

I still have some fine tuning to do, there IS a tiny bit of bump steer, so I'm going to move the axle side heim up one hole, and figure out a way to get my stabilizer back on.
Unit then, here's a couple more shots just for grins and giggles....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG409.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG409.jpg.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG410.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG410.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
06-02-2013, 05:34 PM
OH....and I cant forget about the new shoes either......
Because of the TRE interference with the wheels, I had to AT LEAST get new rims, I figured while I'm at it I might as well get new tires as well.....
After a lot of mulling around, and more indecision than I care to think about, I finally pulled the trigger on THESE:

15x8 ProComp 152 Rock Crawler Series wheels, wrapped in the brand spanking new, just released 33x12.50 ProComp MT/2's
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG405.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG405.jpg.html)

I was a little worried about all the black.....but honestly, it doesn't look half bad (to me)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG412.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG412.jpg.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG411.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG411.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
06-02-2013, 05:36 PM
I have a lot of people to thank for getting me to this point, and if it wasn't for their help, and advice...... honestly, I think I would be either totally screwed, or at the very least, driving around with sub-standard gear, or a jimmy-rigged install.

:thanx:

Jason (crazymoose) - Thank you for letting me use your reamer, that tool proved to not only be invaluable, but saved me a ton of money from having to buy my own.
Brandon (ODGreenOn35's) - dude, your welding skills are seriously awesome, you came out of your way and hauled your gear out here to help me out, and I cant thank you enough.... Had I tried to weld this in myself, who knows what it would have looked like or how well it would have performed. That kind of willingness to help out a fellow Jeeper in need is the kind of stuff we need more of.
Jon (Bronzewyrm) Your advice, and more importantly the pictures you sent, totally upon a spur of the moment request, and right smack dab in the middle of this install was a HUGE help. Seriously, without those, I think that Brandon and I would have been flying blind. And thanks again for putting up with all my questions. You were an instrumental part of getting this installation done.
Ryan (Bri&BubOffroad) Thanks for all the offers to help me out so many times, and for all the times you let me scope out your and Dana's steering set-ups to get ideas and direction for this phase of my project. And thanks for the HUGE assist that one night at 4Wheel Parts to get my new wheels and tires home.
Mike (BHMike) Thanks for keeping the fire lit under my ass, and not letting me give up.... you did a great job of encouraging me to keep moving forward.
Brandon (Bmikes) You too buddy, a lot of encouragement came from you as well, and the constant nagging (lol) to send pics of the progress and asking if "I was done yet" helped me out a lot in keeping the progress going.
Last but certainly not least Wes (92WarWagon) You helped out with some driving duties, the beer runs, and for the constant onslaught of compliments and encouragement throughout the whole ordeal. Thanks man for being there thru this....much appreciated.


And of course big thanks to JCR offroad, RuffStuff, Amazon, and 4Wheel Parts.

NW99XJ
06-02-2013, 05:51 PM
Before I can really get up and put this new set-up thru its paces, I need to take care of the suspension travel. 230k miles is not too kind on the factory bump stops....and as much as I absolutely HATE having to limit my suspension travel in any way, some EXTENDED bump stops are going to have to go in.....
I picked these up for $20 last week:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG444.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG444.jpg.html)
I'm not sure if these alone are going to do it...if not, I will most likely go with the hockey puck mod to the the spring buckets, but for now, putting these guys in are first on the list.

Carves
06-02-2013, 05:54 PM
And thanks for YOUR pics ... especially the stock/aftermarket comparos.


After messing with, and getting properly aquainted with, my front end last week ... and shaking my head at some of the factory setup ...

I'm thinking that even the grocery getter, is going to have to get a little beefier, in the steering.

XJ Wheeler
06-03-2013, 04:52 AM
Wow, that was a mouthful. :D

Great job, as always. Nice job going so extensive with the details, and pics.

bad luck
07-01-2013, 06:11 AM
I just started to read your build thread Josh. I really like the details and the pictures that you include. I am no expert on xj's but you make it clear what your doing, I am looking forward to reading the rest of your build posts when I have time. Thanks

NW99XJ
07-02-2013, 09:20 AM
I just started to read your build thread Josh. I really like the details and the pictures that you include. I am no expert on xj's but you make it clear what your doing, I am looking forward to reading the rest of your build posts when I have time. Thanks
Thanks for the kind words! Glad you're enjoying it, and find it useful....
I only have two desires for this whole build thread,
1.) To document the evolution of my Jeep in perpetuity....
2.) To share what I have learned along the way in the hopes that others may benefit from my experiences.

And as always.... if anyone ever has any questions, I'm more than happy to help out.

NW99XJ
07-31-2013, 03:16 PM
Ok this update is a little late coming but here goes....
It was a last minute job.....done the morning I was leaving for a weekend long wheeling trip, and as luck has it, (and in keeping with the theme of this build thus far...) things did not go very smoothly.
The task? replacing the OEM bump stops, or what was left of them......
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG504.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG504.jpg.html)

The passenger side had all but disintegrated, and was taken out months ago. The replacements were the extended Day Star bump stops I got from Woody's 4x4 in Vancouver Wa. back in June......(since they were the only ones within 200 miles that had them IN STOCK.)
(remember this pic?)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG444.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG444.jpg.html)

I woke up early on this particular Friday, headed out to the parts store and picked up the spring compressors I "thought" I was going to need to do this job.
Back in mid June I went to tackle this....thinking that all would have to do is jack the jeep up high enough to get the axle to droop far enough that I wouldn't need spring compressors........ I was wrong. So The bump stops sat on my work bench for a month or so until now. Since then I have just been procrastinating on attempting to put them in again.
At this point I had no choice, and could not wait any longer, I was not going to go (another) wheeling trip without them.
With rented spring compressors in hand I set to work, getting the jeep pulled halfway into the garage, and getting the wheels/tires off.
The jack was loaded with a few stacked pieces of wood to give me some extra lift, and I got the Jeep in the air as much as I could. The jack stands went under the frame rails, the shocks were removed from the axle side, and I let the jack go....... SOOOOO anti climatic!!! As before, the axle did not droop far enough for me to just simply pull the springs out.....
So out comes the spring compressor, first working on the Passenger side, I place them and start wrenching..... about halfway thru the travel of the compressors, and a good bead of sweat later, I come to the realization, that this isnt going to work either..... I NEED MORE COWBELL...err... I mean Droop..... I gotta have more droop!.... knowing that its not the panhard bar limiting the sag, I disconnect the Tie Rod from the passenger side knuckle, and start in on removing the lower Control Arms.
Once the Tie Rod, and Both Control arms were off, the axle damn near dropped to the floor..... Now that I had the droop, both springs basically just fell out (with the removal of the retainers of course.)
As I pry the one remaining bump stop out, I notice something that had been bugging me since I picked up the Daystar's a month prior..... The diameter.....
There was a definite difference in the "girth" of the OEM's to the new ones....The Daystar's were substantially bigger....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG507.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG507.jpg.html)
I was TOLD that these were the ones meant for the XJ.... I have a feeling that these were for a TJ instead.

XJ P/N: KJ09114BK
TJ P/N: KJ09101BK

One digit off...... SO CLOSE!
And since these were "out of box" ...there was really no way to verify sight unseen.....to the untrained eye at least.... and since I got them for such a screaming deal anyways, I really couldn't bish too much.
Here's what I SHOULD HAVE received: (see the difference?)
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/prodimages/Daystar/KJ09114BKlg.png

The solution?....some creative modification of course.
With a cut-off wheel on my HF grinder, I went to work carefully trimming and cutting, test-fitting, and cutting some more, shaving here, a chunk off there, and some more test-fitting and trimming..... in the end.... I had one ugly bump stop.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG508.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG508.jpg.html)

IT DID HOWEVER Fit nice and snugg.....
To ensure there would be no falling out of the new bump stop, I threw a couple custom "retaining screws" in there to keep things in place for the long run.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG511.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG511.jpg.html)

It fits, and it does its job..... works for me.
In the last several months I have heard of this EXACT same issue happening to a few other people... since "Actual product may vary from picture shown".... dont trust what you see online.... Go off the part number, and get what you need..... In my haste (back in June) I neglected to follow thru with this, and ended up with an install that took WAY longer than it should have, and required a little modification to complete.
In this pic, you can see the completed passenger side, the lower CA's are still disconnected here, allowing the rotation of the axle, making it look like the springs are rubbing against the bump stops. Once everything was put back to the way it should be, all was normal.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG506.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG506.jpg.html)

XJ Wheeler
07-31-2013, 10:55 PM
I don't know if this is what happened with your circumstance but daystar make two styles of bumpstop for the xj. One for smaller mounting cups and, you guessed it, one for larger mounting cups. Even though i have never seen one with the larger bumpstops apparently jeep made two sizes for the XJs front bumpstops. :confused: Just search for the daystar bumpstops for XJs and two results will show up.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

NW99XJ
08-16-2013, 10:21 AM
Soon....these will be on.....
Ballistic Fab Lower Control Arm Brackets (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Lower-Axle-Link-Brackets_p_1397.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG535.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG535.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
08-16-2013, 10:22 AM
So here's my "TO-DO" list to get the Jeep ready for the Rubicon.....

Winch Bumper
RMS
Rebuild Flex Joint on LCA's
Weld on new LCA Mounts
Track down and repair exhaust leak
New upper & lower radiator hoses
Rock Lights
Serp belt
Tranny Flush


....damn thats a mountain of a list.... I really shouldn't have procrastinated this long on doing some of this stuff earlier.
2 weeks till departure..... wish me luck.

4.3LXJ
08-16-2013, 10:26 AM
I do wish you luck. My list is considerably smaller .................

XJ Wheeler
08-16-2013, 10:45 AM
That can be knocked out in a weekend, not by me of course. I move too slowly. :p

You got dis!

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

reddragon72
08-16-2013, 10:52 AM
So here's my "TO-DO" list to get the Jeep ready for the Rubicon.....

Winch Bumper
RMS
Rebuild Flex Joint on LCA's
Weld on new LCA Mounts
Track down and repair exhaust leak
New upper & lower radiator hoses
Rock Lights
Serp belt
Tranny Flush


....damn thats a mountain of a list.... I really shouldn't have procrastinated this long on doing some of this stuff earlier.
2 weeks till departure..... wish me luck.


That bad part about having a list like that is the fact that you have no time to ensure that it got done right before heading out into nowhere. I would do a little test run first to ensure the new parts aren't lemons.

4.3LXJ
08-16-2013, 12:03 PM
That bad part about having a list like that is the fact that you have no time to ensure that it got done right before heading out into nowhere. I would do a little test run first to ensure the new parts aren't lemons.

No sense of adventure :P

Mudderoy
08-16-2013, 12:45 PM
So here's my "TO-DO" list to get the Jeep ready for the Rubicon.....

Winch Bumper
RMS
Rebuild Flex Joint on LCA's
Weld on new LCA Mounts
Track down and repair exhaust leak
New upper & lower radiator hoses
Rock Lights
Serp belt
Tranny Flush


....damn thats a mountain of a list.... I really shouldn't have procrastinated this long on doing some of this stuff earlier.
2 weeks till departure..... wish me luck.

LCA mounts are bad, so that should be first.
Radiator hoses a great idea, next.
Top off all fluids (oil change if it hasn't been done VERY recently)

The rest of it I would add if there was time left.
winch bumper (tow points, winch?)
Serp belt, just take it with you and change if needed.

Trans flush on a AW4 I would not do, never do, but especially right before driving a long ways away. AW4 fluid change, sure why not?

My non-requested advice. ;)

nickyg
08-16-2013, 01:09 PM
So here's my "TO-DO" list to get the Jeep ready for the Rubicon.....

Winch Bumper
RMS
Rebuild Flex Joint on LCA's
Weld on new LCA Mounts
Track down and repair exhaust leak
New upper & lower radiator hoses
Rock Lights
Serp belt
Tranny Flush


....damn thats a mountain of a list.... I really shouldn't have procrastinated this long on doing some of this stuff earlier.
2 weeks till departure..... wish me luck.

You left off. "Install extra cup holders." Thats a long way to go with a drink clenched inbetween your knees

Mudderoy
08-16-2013, 03:31 PM
You left off. "Install extra cup holders." Thats a long way to go with a drink clenched inbetween your knees

It's a 99, it came with cup holders! :P

Dredwolf
08-16-2013, 04:01 PM
It's a 99, it came with cup holders! :P

Maybe it needs MORE cupholders....

http://www.seasucker.com/product-category/cup-holders/

NW99XJ
08-16-2013, 04:17 PM
LCA mounts are bad, so that should be first.
Radiator hoses a great idea, next.
Top off all fluids (oil change if it hasn't been done VERY recently)

The rest of it I would add if there was time left.
winch bumper (tow points, winch?)
Serp belt, just take it with you and change if needed.

Trans flush on a AW4 I would not do, never do, but especially right before driving a long ways away. AW4 fluid change, sure why not?

My non-requested advice. ;)
Yup control arm mounts are top of the list,
Next up is the winch bumper, (more of just a mount really - dont want to go there without the ability to pull my own cable if need be), as the fab work takes time.
Radiator hoses, and coolant swap is next up.
Rock lights also just got added to the list.
The tranny fluid swap IS more along the lines of what I was referring to, I may just do a 50/50 swap before hand and call it good.
I may even try to get a tranny cooler on this thing before I go too! (ugh)


Maybe it needs MORE cupholders....
[/URL]
I'll have one of these on hand if it comes down to it!
http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/pi/mp/24904/2910679004?src=http%3A%2F%2Fd3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfr ont.net%2F13000039%2Fimages%2Futh271__1.jpg&d=074508936d284fe7ff774e18c2ebdc7ed1895380


Thanks for all the support guys!

gunney57
08-16-2013, 04:37 PM
Thank for the welcome .

bad luck
08-17-2013, 10:09 PM
So here's my "TO-DO" list to get the Jeep ready for the Rubicon.....

Winch Bumper
RMS
Rebuild Flex Joint on LCA's
Weld on new LCA Mounts
Track down and repair exhaust leak
New upper & lower radiator hoses
Rock Lights
Serp belt
Tranny Flush


....damn thats a mountain of a list.... I really shouldn't have procrastinated this long on doing some of this stuff earlier.
2 weeks till departure..... wish me luck.

You better get your ass in gear! No, I do wish you luck I'm sure you'll get it ready in time and have a great trip, I wish I could join you.

NW99XJ
08-19-2013, 11:58 AM
This last weekend was spent working on the Jeep, Friday and Sun. Saturday unfortunately was spent working, but I at least got a couple good sessions in on the Jeep. Friday was a NAXJA work party over at Bmikes (Brandon's) house.... 4 jeeps showed up including mine. It was a good day, and a lot of work got done.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3148.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3148.jpg.html)

Work got started on my winch bumper and not much else on my rig.
I'll get to that in another post.
Sunday rolled around and With the moral support of my friend Wes, (92WarWagon).... I got a couple small things crossed off the list.
I adjusted my track bar up one notch on the bracket to more closely match the angle of the drag link.
We also found that my main oil leak is not the rear main seal (although it IS still seeping) ....but that the oil filter adapter is leaking. Not bad, but worse than the RMS, still not enough to leave a spot on the driveway, but still enough that it needs to be addressed.
It was also discovered (after torquing down every bolt on the exhaust system before the cat) ...that my exhaust leak is stemming from the header itself, and not something being loose, or at the down pipe connection as previously thought. This sucks, as that header is only around a year old. I am really NOT looking forward to another header swap, its a long nasty dirty job.
Not to mention, I dont have another header on hand. I DO have the stock one still, sitting on the side of the house,..... I suppose I could try my skills at welding that one up, but I really dont want to chance it. I may just take the APN off the Jeep, and take IT in to be welded up. We'll see ....this is an unexpected snag, that I wasn't planning on having to deal with. The rest of my list is still un done. The priorities have shifted, and now the big three is going to be:
-Control Arm Skids (as soon as the winch bumper is done)
-Oil Filter Adapter O-rings
-Tranny Cooler
-Radiator Hoses

And probably in that order.

NW99XJ
08-19-2013, 12:02 PM
So in getting things ready for my trip to the Rubicon, a winch bumper was high on the list. Not having the best of Fab Skills, nor a welder with gas or the patience to cut everything with a jig saw..... I enlisted the help of those who were at Brandon's (Bmikes) build party last week. Big thanks to Brandon, who has done most of the cutting and welding on this. Adam (Specfab) lent a huge help as well, and shared a TON of knowledge with the group. I can not thank either of them enough for the help they've provided in this project.
Here's how it started:
A large piece of 3/16" steel, and a plate of 1/4" (not shown)....
The bracket concept was created crudely using the typical CAD (cardboard aided design) method, taking advantage of as many bolt hole locations as possible:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3147.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3147.jpg.html)

What was left of the stock bumper was removed, and installation and the rest of the design process began.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3146.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3146.jpg.html)

The plan was/is to keep the winch pulled back as far as possible, without clocking it, and putting it inside of the core support. As much as I have talked about doing this in the past, I decided that for now at least, I'm going a more traditional route, but keeping with a slimline, higher approach angle design, all while not sacrificing strength. This of course means there was going to be some modifications made to the header panel and grill.
I'm using 1/4" for the winch plate itself. it was cut to size, and mocked into position.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3149.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3149.jpg.html)

Adam set to work, expertly welding the winch plate to the brackets.
First one side:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3150.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3150.jpg.html)

Then the other.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3151.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG_3151.jpg.html)

As you can tell from the pics, it was night (and late) by the time this phase of things finished up. Brandon's place was straightened up, and we called it a night. Sunday rolled around and Brandon graciously offered to help out with bumper some more. At this point all that it was, was a piece of 1/4" welded to two runners of 3/16"....not good enough for recovery.
The winch was mocked into position a couple more times, to gauge how the layout of the front piece was going to be.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG544.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG544.jpg.html)

This pic is a tad dark, but you get the idea of how tucked back the winch sits.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG543.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG543.jpg.html)

The face was drawn out on some of the remaining 3/16"
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG542.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG542.jpg.html)

It was then cut out, again using Brandon's plasma cutter.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG545.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG545.jpg.html)

After some time with the grinder and flap wheel, it's edges were cleaned up and Brandon got to work burning it in.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG546.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG546.jpg.html)

By the end of the night we had gotten it all welded together, except the sides, and the lower support, that should happen later today (monday) or tomorrow. We did add some internal gussets for strength. And for now, thats how it sits.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG547.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG547.jpg.html)

The lower support will add torsional resistance to the winch plate, tying it in to the core support, and finish the main part of it, making it ready for recovery if needed. After that, all that would be left is the cosmetic side of things, adding some sides to it, to wrap it around to the front corners of the fenders.
More pics will follow after installation and that phase of the fab work is done.

abebehrmann
08-19-2013, 12:05 PM
Looks like a fun, productive party!
So are you still putting on the new lca mounts before heading out or just going to fab some temporary skids to tide you over for this one trip?

NW99XJ
08-19-2013, 12:23 PM
Looks like a fun, productive party!
So are you still putting on the new lca mounts before heading out or just going to fab some temporary skids to tide you over for this one trip?
NO NO...the new ones are definitely going on before the trip.

abebehrmann
08-19-2013, 12:27 PM
Cool, great build thread btw. Love all the details!

Mudderoy
08-19-2013, 02:37 PM
I misunderstood, I thought you were working on the rig Friday night and going off road Sat and Sun. No wonder you had such an ambitious list.

XJ Wheeler
08-19-2013, 03:11 PM
Looks good, Josh. Some work happenin right there. I like how you've tucked the winch back in there some. Are you gonna have shackle mounts on it?

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

NW99XJ
08-19-2013, 04:10 PM
Looks good, Josh. Some work happenin right there. I like how you've tucked the winch back in there some. Are you gonna have shackle mounts on it?
Good question Jake!
I will be figuring that out later tonight in fact.
If nothing else I still have the tow hooks & brackets...so front recovery points wont be an issue.

bad luck
08-19-2013, 07:00 PM
You guys are working your tails off. It's funny how you have lots of time, but before you know it, you have to hurry and get it all ready. Are your buddies joining you on the trip? I am looking forward to seeing how the bumper comes out, I'm sure it will be great.

NW99XJ
08-20-2013, 04:04 PM
You guys are working your tails off. It's funny how you have lots of time, but before you know it, you have to hurry and get it all ready. Are your buddies joining you on the trip? I am looking forward to seeing how the bumper comes out, I'm sure it will be great.
These guys? no.... I'm going with a different group..... I'm going to be the only XJ in the Group thats going, unless Steve (4.3LXJ) meets me/us down there.
It's also still not 100% that the XJ is even going to be ready. I'm trying!, but there's still A LOT to do.
Last night didnt get a whole lot done, a local grass fire screwed traffic all to hell, and it took me almost three hours to get home.
By the time I got over to Brandon's he had already gotten some work done.
He must have spent a good amount of time grinding, as the bumper's edges were all ground smooth and rounded.
Looked pretty good! (sorry cell phone pics dont do it any justice)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG548.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG548.jpg.html)

We decided to add some clevis mounts to it as well. 1.5 x .75 bar stock.
In this pic you can see em after they were burned in, and as the bumper was mocked into position for the fitting of the core support plate.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG549.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG549.jpg.html)

The core support plate is a piece of 3/16" x 3 x 3 angle stock.
It is/will be welded all the way around, and share mounting points with the two back holes of the winch on the plate,
as well as several mounting points on the core support.
It will also get cut down a little on the bottom corners to more closely match the bottom edge contours of the core support.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG550.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG550.jpg.html)

The purpose of this is to reduce torsional force applied to the winch plate during heavy pulls by strengthening the back end of it,
and anchoring it to the core support, which in turn gains rigidity and strength from the plate itself.
This will prevent/reduce the winch wanting to rotate out of the winch plate, or the winch plate and winch wanting to rotate out of the brackets during a heavy pull.
Finishing touches, more grinding, and of course some primer and paint will all happen tonight, and this will be ready for recovery.
A brush guard and side protection will come after I get back from the Rubicon.

4.3LXJ
08-20-2013, 07:06 PM
Working on mine too Josh. But I should be there one way or another

NW99XJ
08-21-2013, 09:28 AM
Got back over to Brandon's last night, and discovered he once again went well out of his way to help me out, and had done some more work on the bumper.... welding on the lower core support brace, and trimming it down to match the contours. He had also drilled the holes to tie it in thru the winch mount and the core support.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG553.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG553.jpg.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG555.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG555.jpg.html)

At this point is was ready for paint, so I got right to work.
I sanded down a couple rough spots, and wiped the whole thing down with the same wax/grease/oil remover I had used on the bars for my steering.
Then brought it out of the garage, and started laying down the self etching primer.
After the Primer had set, I started in with the spray-on bed liner, the same stuff I used on my fenders after I trimmed those.
It laid down pretty good, but by the time I got done it was dark, so my results are going to have to wait to be judged until daylight.
For now, here's a couple preliminary pics:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG556.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG556.jpg.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG557.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG557.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
08-23-2013, 12:13 AM
Ok, so got off work at a semi-decent time Wednesday, and made a mad dash home to grab the Jeep and head over to Brandon's to grab the bumper.
I got there, and immediately went to work.... first up was getting the steering box bolts out so we could get the bumper slid on and mounted up. All went fine until it came time to remove the last steering box bolt, that for some reason, decided to snap on me.
(I swear no project can go easy on this Jeep)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG559.jpg

After WAY too much time with a set of vice grips that did next to nothing, the decision was finally made to weld a nut on the remaining bolt, and try and back it out.
....A little tack weld, and 1/16th of a turn at a time (and about a hundred of those) later, along with Brandon keeping force on the now dangling steerig box, and me with a foot on the tie rod for leverage..... we finally had the broken piece out. (what an ordeal)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG562.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG561.jpg

Here's how I feel about that damn bolt......
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG570.jpg

Even though it was great to have extracted that without having to drill......the damage was done.http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG560.jpg

I chased those threads with 7/16-14 tap, as well as all the others, just for good measure. Mainly to clean things up a bit but to also try and make sure I was still going to have some thread engagement when it came time to remount this thing. Obviously, on this one hole, the minimum diameter had already been hogged out to the point where cutting new threads of the same size wasn't going to do much. I also didnt REALLY want to risk drilling this out, and re-tapping to a new thread/bolt/size/pitch.... It did though give me a few good threads of engagement, so I continued on with a contingency plan....which included a trip to the hardware store to get a new 7/16-14 X 4.5" bolt and a few grade 8 nuts.
The one upper bolt that was sketchy on thread engagement got an extra nut, to help cinch things down, and keep the bolt in place. (sorry no pic)
The other holes, well, there just wasnt enough room to get a nut on the bolt due to flanges. oh well......

I had brought up the idea, that if the steering box had a lateral brace, tying it in to the opposite frame rail, there would be less of a concern that this thing would shear off its mount.
So we went on a hunt thru this scrap bin and others, looking for materials to build one....
Sure enough, thanks to an exhaust clamp left over from Brandon's Grandfather's barn, and a few pieces of metal here and there, we had enough to fab one up......
We followed the over all design concept of the M.O.R.E. steering box brace and others that are similar in design, keeping it simple, yet functional.
The Durango Steering box needed just a tiny shave to better clear the clamp on the back side, it was literally just a kiss with the grinder....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG563.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG564.jpg

Here you can see the clamp sitting in position....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image5.jpeg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image5.jpeg.html)

The frame side plate was next up....this used two existing hole locations, one of which was one of the sway bar bushing bracket mounting holes.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image2.jpeg

This was made of 3/16" plate, trimmed and bent to match the contours of the frame, and drilled for bolt clearance.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image1.jpeg

To this was welded a 3/4" diameter steel rod.... bulged on one end, threaded on the other...
This was/used to be some sort of a prototype tool for something, so I'm guessing this was made from real good tool steel.
The larger end was welded to the plate......
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image8.jpeg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image8.jpeg.html)

While the other end (threaded) was welded to one half of the 2.125 diameter exhaust clamp:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG569.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG569.jpg.html)

Brandon did the welding on this one as well..... Although I was confident that I could make all these items come together and resemble a brace,
I would put way more confidence in HIS welds than my own.
In the end, we had made one hell of a steering box brace,
from left over scrap, in all of about 20 - 30 min....
That honestly, in my opinion is just as good as many of the other braces out there.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG568.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/IMG568.jpg.html)

I will eventually upgrade from an exhaust clamp to something else, or perhaps just reinforce that side of it,
....who knows, it may not need it and I could just be over engineering this.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image6.jpeg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image6.jpeg.html)

The fit? ....couldn't be better.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image9.jpeg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image9.jpeg.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image10.jpeg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Winch%20Bumper%20-%20Aug-2013/image10.jpeg.html)

The results? Well, I've only put about 5 miles on this so far... I know....not a true "real world" test...
There WILL be a shake-down run before I go to the Rubicon.
But my initial impressions are this....

It definitely stiffened up the steering... I can tell a difference.
There seems to be more rigidity in the steering system, and I feel as if its more responsive.
The winch bumper definitely added to this, the brackets on both sides of the unibody rails, and the support across the front, as well as the tie-in to the core support, really make a difference in the way the jeep feels going around corners. I'm sure this will translate well on the trails.


Tomorrow I will try to get the winch mounted or at least mocked into position and get some good daylight shots of the bumper thus far for you guys.
(stay tuned)

NW99XJ
08-28-2013, 11:42 AM
Ordered these...(and a spanner wrench) they will be here Friday.
http://www.roughcountry.com/images_large/xflex-joint-rebuild-kit_RCJ100-1.jpg

EricT93
08-28-2013, 12:22 PM
Awesome rig man! When my wife and I listened to the podcast on the way back from our honeymoon, she asked if the hosts's XJs were cool, and now I can honestly answe that with a yes!

NW99XJ
08-29-2013, 08:54 AM
Awesome rig man! When my wife and I listened to the podcast on the way back from our honeymoon, she asked if the hosts's XJs were cool, and now I can honestly answer that with a yes!
Hahah! Niiice.
Well congrats on the marriage man, and thanks for the kind words.
Stay tuned, there's a lot more to come in the coming months.

EricT93
08-29-2013, 10:28 AM
Hahah! Niiice.
Well congrats on the marriage man, and thanks for the kind words.
Stay tuned, there's a lot more to come in the coming months.

Thanks! Will do :)

NW99XJ
08-30-2013, 11:51 PM
So doing some math I came across some unsettling numbers recently. :(
The XJ gets anywheres from 12-14 mpg on a good day....unloaded commuting on the freeway.
With a full load of gear, provisions, and fuel, I figure I would prob average about 10mpg. Or at least thats what I was getting on the way to NWF.
With the distance from Gresham, Or. to the Loon Lake Staging in Ca. at roughly 680 miles, that means I would need roughly 68 gal of gas one way.
68 gal of gas times lets say roughly $4/gal = $272 one way.
272x2 (there and back) = $544 ....just to get there and back.
Thats not including wheeling gas, nor the potential expense of fixing damage should something happen.
Basically......I cant afford this trip right now. At least not as a driver. :sad0147:
It is a huge personal let down, and I'm sure a let down to those who have helped me up to this point to get the jeep ready for a trip thats now, not going to happen in the same regard as was planned.
Unless I can find a way to come up with an extra $500 in the next three days, the Jeep is staying here for this years trip to the Rubi.
It sucks, i'm really down over this right now, :cry: but it's just not in the cards at this point.
At least I'm still going to get to experience this amazing trail system first hand, unfortunately it is going to be from a different vantage point this year.

Mudderoy
08-31-2013, 01:34 AM
So doing some math I came across some unsettling numbers recently. :(
The XJ gets anywheres from 12-14 mpg on a good day....unloaded commuting on the freeway.
With a full load of gear, provisions, and fuel, I figure I would prob average about 10mpg. Or at least thats what I was getting on the way to NWF.
With the distance from Gresham, Or. to the Loon Lake Staging in Ca. at roughly 680 miles, that means I would need roughly 68 gal of gas one way.
68 gal of gas times lets say roughly $4/gal = $272 one way.
272x2 (there and back) = $544 ....just to get there and back.
Thats not including wheeling gas, nor the potential expense of fixing damage should something happen.
Basically......I cant afford this trip right now. At least not as a driver. :sad0147:
It is a huge personal let down, and I'm sure a let down to those who have helped me up to this point to get the jeep ready for a trip thats now, not going to happen in the same regard as was planned.
Unless I can find a way to come up with an extra $500 in the next three days, the Jeep is staying here for this years trip to the Rubi.
It sucks, i'm really down over this right now, :cry: but it's just not in the cards at this point.
At least I'm still going to get to experience this amazing trail system first hand, unfortunately it is going to be from a different vantage point this year.

If you get away for half that just going as a passenger I'd consider myself lucky. Travel is expensive!

4.3LXJ
08-31-2013, 09:47 AM
I'll make sure you get some driving time Josh. Won't be the same, but enjoyable though

bad luck
08-31-2013, 11:55 AM
I'm sorry to hear that you won't be able to get your xj down to the trail, after all the work you guys put into it. I bet you get it down there sometime though. But your still going, just without your jeep right? I'm sure you'll still have a good time.

NW99XJ
08-31-2013, 05:15 PM
If you get away for half that just going as a passenger I'd consider myself lucky. Travel is expensive!
I will actually probably come in under THAT even.... at least as a passenger.
Most of the expense at this point will be food. I will prob throw whomever I ride with (will probably be a few different guys) a few bucks here and there for fuel costs, just as a thank you.


I'll make sure you get some driving time Josh. Won't be the same, but enjoyable though
Your Awesome. Thanks!
-Heads up....We're leaving PDX around 8am, and heading straight for the Loon Lake campground. Should be there around 8-10pm (give or take) depending on how many stops we make on the way there, and what kind of time we make.


I'm sorry to hear that you won't be able to get your xj down to the trail, after all the work you guys put into it. I bet you get it down there sometime though. But your still going, just without your jeep right? I'm sure you'll still have a good time.
Yup still going.....and thats the silver lining I guess.....and really what I should be focusing on.

nickyg
08-31-2013, 07:39 PM
Just don't forget to pack your digital recorder and pillow.

Dredwolf
08-31-2013, 11:17 PM
The single largest expense for our trip to Utah and Colorado was fuel....even with the '03 Explorer averaging 17mpg loaded down, fuel was the killer expense.

oh well. Still went. :D Would still do it again (with a spare thermostat housing) :rolleye0012:

Enjoy the trip Josh!!

NW99XJ
11-25-2013, 12:22 PM
After months of neglecting my Jeep, I finally got around to doing something to it.
For months I have had these Ballistic Fabrication Lower Control Arm Axle Brackets laying around, collecting dust.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG535.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG535.jpg.html)

The main reason for getting these, and what has been keeping me from wheeling much lately (among other things)
...are the bent up, thrashed, and probably ready to fold and/or fail, factory LCA brackets.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_3145.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_3145.jpg.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_3142.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_3142.jpg.html)

Not willing to trust my own welding skills for something this critical,
I enlisted the help of others with better equipment, and more seat time with a welder than me.
The first couple guys I went with didnt work out for various scheduling reasons, etc....
With the help of a long time Jeepin buddy, Brandon "Bmikes" came thru with flying colors.

The day started off with good weather, clear skies and a hellacious wind that would freeze your snot before it left your nose.
After stopping for some doughnuts, I pulled into Brandon's to find him between the legs of his jeep munching on the tank.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/14/j6st.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0ej6stj)

We moved a couple things around to get the jeep nosed into the garage and out of the wind at least a little bit.
Jacked it up, removed the tires, and got some jack stands placed. The plasma cutter came out and it was time to get to work.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/850/9vlq.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/nm9vlqj)

I used the plasma cutter to make short work of getting the majority of the brackets off.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/34/lqrk.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0ylqrkj)

Once those were out of the way, I ground the rest of the brackets and factory welds down to the tube.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/593/xxrt.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/ghxxrtj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/854/f69l.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/nqf69lj)

In order to stay warm I did my best to start a fire using showers of sparks in the hopes of igniting the mass piles of leaves that kept blowing into the garage.
Unfortunately, it never worked:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/824/np4o.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/mwnp4oj)

NW99XJ
11-25-2013, 12:24 PM
Once everything was ground off, and ready to go, the new brackets started to get mocked into position.
They came from Ballistic with these extra tabs, not sure EXACTLY what their intended use was for.
But I know they could only go on in a couple ways.

If they were mounted like THIS, then they would interfere with where the brackets are supposed to go,
...and unnecessary modifications would have to made to either the bracket or the coil bucket/shock mount in order to get them to fit right.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/36/plts.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/10pltsj)

Since I really didnt want to go thru all that, I looked at option #2.....
If they were welded in like THIS, then they would interfere with the control arm and/or the grease zirk:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/33/4mqv.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0x4mqvj)

That wasn't going to happen either.
After taking a look at some of the competition, namely the IRO LCA Brackets,
I noticed, they don't have any sort of "internal cross brace thingy"
...and since mine already were a step above those with having the built in skid plate,
I figured it would be fine if I left them out of the equation all together.
(picture courtesy of BMIKES)
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/13/evynugum.jpg

The brackets were mocked into position, tacked in place, and the work continued.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/708/bvi8.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/jobvi8j)

I was initially a little worried about heat transfer to the pumpkin, and/or inner seals during the welding phase of things.
This proved to not be much of an issue.
The cold weather, and alternating welds, with cool down times, and working on the other side really helped.

Moving to the other side it was more of the same game plan.
Cut, grind, place, tack, move to the other side, weld, move back to the other side, weld some more. Etc.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/833/j29u.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/n5j29uj)

After the tacking, and because things were so cold on occasion,
Brandon decided to do a tiny bit of pre-heating in the area to help with penetration.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/27/vchg.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0rvchgj)

His welds are great, and I'm more than confident these things aren't going anywhere anytime soon.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/706/v3dw.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/jmv3dwj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/841/lw8l.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/ndlw8lj)

The one thing I wish these brackets did was clock up onto the axle a little more.
I think these hang down just a tad below what the factory ones did.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/802/tit3.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/matit3j)

There was just no way to get the brackets any more parallel to the ground without some serious mods to both the brackets themselves, AND the coil bucket/shock mount.
Time was a factor here, as was the cold, and frankly I know these things will hold up regardless.
They're easily 4 times as thick, and there's at least double the amount of weld holding them on.

Big thanks goes out to Brandon for helping me out with the welding aspect of this.
Without him, who knows how much longer my jeep would have gone neglected.

Next up is going to be painting these, along with the steering box brace, and rebuilding the LCA joints.
I have the stuff to do all this, so Ill prob do that before this weekend.

NW99XJ
12-12-2013, 03:01 PM
Alrighty folks,
Here's whats happened since I last posted.
Cleaned up and painted the LCA mounts.
Removed, painted, and re-installed the steering box brace.
Rebuilt the LCA X-Flex joints.
Finished mounting the front bumper.
Mounted the winch.
Relocated the solenoid box.
Discovered some carnage.

Here's the pics:
LCA mounts all painted up. Same process as how I did my steering arms...
Clean up what was needed with wire brush/steel wool/scotchbrite pads...
Clean surfaces with grease/wax remover.
Prime with self etching primer. (wait till its dry)
Paint liberally with favorite bedliner spray.
This of course was all done with the LCA removed (I preferred to do just one side at a time)
They turned out pretty dang good. (pic shown after LCA was re-installed)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/163/7gnl.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/4j7gnlj)

While paint or bedliner was drying, the LCA X-flex Joints were addressed.
One at a time, they were chocked up in the vice, and work ensued.
The set screw was removed:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/13/y5v1.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0dy5v1j)

Then, using the Rough Country spanner wrench, (p/n RCJ120)
The retaining ring was backed out
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/198/w8zw.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/5iw8zwj)

Once the retaining ring was out, the guts of the joint can be pulled out:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/28/v2ok.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0sv2okj)

There was no way I was going to rebuild these joints and not clean things up a bit.
The "ball joint" was pretty nasty....
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/194/b2y4.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/5eb2y4j)

Some shop rags and brake cleaner took care of that real quick:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/843/igcl.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/nfigclj)

The rebuild kit (rough Country p/n: RCJ100-1) comes with everything you need, and then some.
New joint cups, snap ring, washer, and grease zirk.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/837/q468.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/n9q468j)

One of the first things I noticed was a slightly different design of the joint cups from the old to the new.
I had heard rumors that Rough Country had done a redesign a couple/few years ago to "improved" their joints.
Probably in part from the amount of complaints from the end users that they have been having to rebuild the joints
at least once a year due to (what was presumed as) premature wear.
Will this new design work? Will it last? ...only time will tell I guess:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/545/qo6v.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/f5qo6vj)

After my examination of the parts was complete, I started back in at the task at hand.
The joint housing (rod end - whatever) was cleaned up using the shop-rag/towel and brake cleaner method.
The first cup was loaded in. Definitely a more "snug" fit with the new compared to the old.
I didnt need a press or anything, but the old ones basically could have just fallen out,
...whereas these needed some force to get in.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/194/36yo.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/5e36yoj)

The spherical ball joint is placed in the first cup....
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/534/2t7h.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/eu2t7hj)

And the second cup is then placed over the top, ensuring it sits flat/flush:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/28/y73k.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0sy73kj)

Getting the two halves to seat properly took a little finagling, since they have a fairly tight fit to the housing,
it's not easy to do small position adjustments as you press them in.
I used this little dimple mark as a reference to help guide me in, after a couple of failed attempts.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/198/c3dd.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/5ic3ddj)

The spanner (retaining ring - whatever) was then cleaned up as well, and threaded into place.
I cinched it down good and lined up the holes in its perimeter to the set screw location once it was nice and tight.
The set screw was tightened and I moved on:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/541/71tt.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/f171ttj)

For those who are interested, Rough Country has a video of the process on youtube:
Rough Country&#39;s X-Flex Joint Rebuild Tutorial - YouTube

NW99XJ
12-12-2013, 03:02 PM
The long-since-rusted-since-it-was-installed steering box brace was removed,
wire brushed, etching primered, and painted with the bedliner too.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/545/lla4.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/f5lla4j)

The bumper was finally fully mounted using a bunch of new grade-8 hardware, and the winch was mounted.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/826/ehpj.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/myehpjj)

That crusty old fairlead was a hand-me-down from another Jeeper. It was pretty beat up, and needed some refurbishing.
The tabs that hold the rollers were all bent, so I re-bent those into as close of an original position as I could.
Scotch-brited all the surfaces, and put it all back together. It works just fine (for now.)

Since my bumper design has the winch pushed back pretty far,
it was my intentions all along to relocate the solenoid box to the engine compartment.
There of course was not much room, so it was just sort of shoe-horned in there for the time being.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/534/9hi1.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/eu9hi1j)

I still have some finishing touches to do to the winch install, but its on there, and mounted solid.
Next up for the winch will be in-cab controls.
My idea for this is to use the "vent switch panel" offered up by various companies.
Here's the one from Rugged Ridge:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/313HWPCy0JL.jpg

They look like this once installed:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showpic.php?do=showpic&u=293217&a=363532

Instead of two rocker switches, I will use one for winch power on/off,
And the other will be a two-way momentary switch like this one:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ttea5MeLL._SY300_.jpg

NW99XJ
12-12-2013, 03:02 PM
Now for the aforementioned carnage....
I went wheeling on Thanksgiving Weekend,
My Jeep HAD been making some "clunking" noises for a littel while, but I had just assumed it was the LCA joints gone bad.
They WERE bad, but were not the source of my noise.
Any time I would accelerate hard, or if I was in 4WD and climbing a hill, there would be a *clunk*clunk*
...not in regular intervals, but solid and deep sounding. Felt like (at the time) like the whole front end was shifting forward and back underneath me. Under a normal load, going downhill, or coasting, it was fine.
It wasn't till later in the day on this outing that with the help of another Jeeper (thank you SpecFab)
It was determined it was my motor mounts.
I hadn't even considered them, as they are barley over a year old.

If you remember, it was back in mid-July of 2012 that I swapped out the old ones.
Here's a couple pics from that:
(new on the left - old on the right)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1497.jpg

A Closer look once that real bad one was pulled out:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1498.jpg

Now....
Here's what they look like today (December 2013)
Drivers side
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/11/x2bg.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0bx2bgj)

Yes the top of the metal housing of the mount itself is snapped in two:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/29/vfxo.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0tvfxoj)

Passenger side:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/547/hcz1.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/f7hcz1j)

That's right, virtually no rubber left.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/36/laak.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/10laakj)

So with these being barely a year and a half old, and having around 10 or so GOOD wheeling trips on them, and a fair amount of freeway miles as well..... I'd say this is a good argument for WHY you upgrade to something more than just an OEM replacement.
This is really making me wonder what my tranny mount is looking like.
In any case, I have narrowed it down to a few choices:

IronMan 4x4 Fab
Brown Dog
M.O.R.E.


Not 100% sure which direction I'm going to go yet, but you guys will be the first to know.

Either way, I will most likely be swapping out the tranny mount at the same time just for peace of mind.

Brasscatz
12-12-2013, 04:56 PM
A LOT of good info buddy. Nicely done. I'm digging that vent switch plate for sure, I didn't know they existed. I know you'll make your own decision on the motor mounts, but I cannot say enough good things about Iron Man's mounts. If he would've had the mounting plates at the time of purchase, I would've "boughten" those too. It's on my to-do list :D

Oh, and I will be honest and say that I really don't notice much difference at all in vibes after installing them. Plus, you're in the same boat as me where the XJ isn't my DD anymore and I wouldn't mind the vibes if I noticed a big difference. Not like I have a smooth ride off-road anyways lol. Just something for ya to think about.

gary63
12-14-2013, 09:53 AM
I will be watching and waiting to see how the vent switchs work out I have been looking at them and wondering it the heat will both them.

4.3LXJ
12-14-2013, 10:18 AM
The thing I would worry about with that is how much it restricts the AC coming out of the vents. Gotta have that air flow in the hot weather.

gary63
12-14-2013, 10:42 AM
will that is why I haven't got one yet been wanting to see one or talk to some one who has one before I go through the running of wires and setting it up.

NW99XJ
12-16-2013, 11:08 AM
The thing I would worry about with that is how much it restricts the AC coming out of the vents. Gotta have that air flow in the hot weather.

I'd be a little worried about that if I was to do BOTH vents...
And although that WOULD look pretty sweet, It's just not needed.
All four vents are tied together, so I would still have 3.5/4 still without restriction..... should be fine.
I'm not dead-set on this location for the in-cab winch control, but it makes a lot of sense.

GR33N_Ophelia
12-17-2013, 01:42 PM
MARCH 2011:
Finally received my E-AutoWorks Headlight Harness, So it was time to buy some bulbs and install my upgrades...
http://img858.imageshack.us/img858/4859/h4install031011003.jpg (http://img858.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011003.jpg/)

Upon pulling the harness out and inspecting it, i noticed something I thought might pose a problem in the future. The plug ends (connector) for the lights, were not sealed up, and the contacts, although locked into the connector body, seemed to be a bit loose, and not protected at all from possible shorts to the body, or the elements.
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/4127/h4install031011006.jpg (http://img847.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011006.jpg/)

So i did two things: i secured the wires together with a zip tie, close to the connector body, and then wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape, sealing off the exposed portion of the connector.
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/180/h4install031011007.jpg (http://img849.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011007.jpg/)
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/2606/h4install031011009.jpg (http://img855.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011009.jpg/)

I did the same thing to the one factory harness plug that wouldn't be connected to the new harness. (the harness uses only on of the plugs for a signal to trigger the relays.)
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/6121/h4install031011010.jpg (http://img641.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011010.jpg/)

After that I routed the harness, i decided to go under the radiator vs. over the top, because it seemed easier to get the ends up thru the various cavities and openings than to do it from the top. I didn't get any pictures of this part of it all, but the main part of the harness went thru the opening in the fender just to the side of the battery and got routed down behind the passenger side light then into the space behind the bumper, under the radiator. One plug (on the longest part of the harness) goes to the driver's side, and two plugs go to the passenger side. One for the new light and one to plug into the old factory harness end to use as a trigger source. Here we see the the two harness' plugged into one another, and the one new pigtail for the new light:
http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/849/h4install031011011.jpg (http://img861.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011011.jpg/)

I didn't get any pics of the electrical connections at the battery, as that's pretty self explanatory. I did however fuse the positive side of the harness as a safety precaution, it does NOT come fused from E-AutoWorks.
Next up was to install the bulbs into the new housings. I went with PIAA'S "Intense White" H4's (p/n: 10904) http://www.piaa.com/Bulbs/Bulbs-H4.html rated at 60/55w but have the output of 135/125w at 4100k in the color spectrum. I went with these because of their output, reviews, reputation, and the fact that they don't have ANY hint of blue in the light.
(I cant stand the douche-bags with purple headlights)
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/8879/h4install031011002.jpg (http://img846.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011002.jpg/)

Easy enough to put into the housings, REMEMBER: DONT TOUCH THE BULB GLASS!!
First I needed to pull off the rubber "doughnut" seal on the back:
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/3049/h4install031011018.jpg (http://img850.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011018.jpg/)

Then just flipped back the lock spring on the housing, and line the bulb's three tabs up with the corresponding indents in the housing for proper alignment, and ensure they're seated securely:
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/9631/h4install031011020.jpg (http://img534.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011020.jpg/)

Replace the rubber doughnut seal making sure its tight up against the back of the housing:
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/1982/h4install031011022.jpg (http://img710.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011022.jpg/)

And these are ready to go in:
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5193/h4install031011021.jpg (http://img146.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011021.jpg/)

The difference was huge! The beam pattern is quite different, not to mention the amount and color of light that comes out.
Old:
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/6887/h4install031011012.jpg (http://img851.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011012.jpg/)

New:
http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/8601/h4install031011024.jpg (http://img859.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011024.jpg/)

And here's a shot of the beam difference, (note; Left is old, Right is new, and the old one was only held in by one screw so it appears to be a bit high:
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/6316/h4install031011017.jpg (http://img854.imageshack.us/i/h4install031011017.jpg/)

The brights... well lets just say you could probably see them from space.This is by far one of the best mods i've done so far. I HIGHLY recommend that ANYone with a Cherokee do this as soon as possible.
I am looking to replace my headlights. This is super helpful!

The stock bulbs are pretty much useless, and I would like to get some bright white bulbs like the piaa ones you have here, do you know if there is a compatible bulb with the stock housing? I saw you got new housings, harness, and compatible bulbs, but I would just like the new bulbs, is that possible?

NW99XJ
12-17-2013, 01:56 PM
I am looking to replace my headlights. This is super helpful!

The stock bulbs are pretty much useless, and I would like to get some bright white bulbs like the piaa ones you have here, do you know if there is a compatible bulb with the stock housing? I saw you got new housings, harness, and compatible bulbs, but I would just like the new bulbs, is that possible?
Unfortunately, the "stock" bulbs are are sealed housings, essentially they're just a large, rectangular light bulb. The best replacement for those is the Sylvania Silver Stars.
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/26029/26029-add3-lg.jpg
These will give you a brighter/whiter light.
But they will STILL be lacking the proper voltage, and that's where the harness comes into play.
With that harness upgrade, even regular bulbs will have much more output.
If you want to go a step further, and open yourself to many more bulb options, you'll have to switch the housings like I did.
This will convert you from a 6054 sealed beam to an H4 housing and bulb.
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/67238/67238-lg.jpg

These typically have more output and a better beam pattern than the sealed beam type....but even these will suffer if the harness is not addressed.
One note on those PIAAs above..... they did not last much more than like 6 months.
I dont think they like the vibration of offroad. They are a great LOOKING bulb, But I wont use them again.

GR33N_Ophelia
12-17-2013, 02:01 PM
Thanks! That's what I just found.

What harness would you recommend for the H6054? Or would I only need a harness with the H4?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

XJ Wheeler
12-18-2013, 01:32 AM
Thanks! That's what I just found.

What harness would you recommend for the H6054? Or would I only need a harness with the H4?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

If you put the harness on even a stock headlight it will produce more light because its getting more power. So the harness is helpful with any light, but some bulbs that are a higher wattage need the harness because its too much draw on the stock wiring setup.



Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

NW99XJ
12-18-2013, 09:29 AM
What harness would you recommend for the H6054? Or would I only need a harness with the H4?
The same that I used will work just fine. There are others out there, but they all do the exact same thing. The 6054 bulbs and the H4's use the same plug, thats why it's a direct fit/replacement/upgrade... no mods needed.
The harness is plug and play too..... just two connections required, battery and ground.... the rest plugs into your existing harness, and provides two new pugs for your lights, ..... super easy.
It's also real affordable too. This is where I got mine (if i remember correctly)
http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--9003-Heavy-Duty-Headlight-Upgrade-Wiring-Harness-PRD7540.aspx

http://img858.imageshack.us/img858/4859/h4install031011003.jpg


If you put the harness on even a stock headlight it will produce more light because its getting more power. So the harness is helpful with any light, but some bulbs that are a higher wattage need the harness because its too much draw on the stock wiring setup.

This is correct. And since the harness will work on stock lights as well as the H4 upgrade, you can do this in phases if you wish, or as funds allow.
In any case, I would recommend doing the harness upgrade first and foremost...then determine if you need or want to go further from there.

GR33N_Ophelia
12-18-2013, 09:59 AM
That's awesome, very helpful! And I am glad to hear I can do it in phases, funds are always limited :thumbdown:

NW99XJ
01-06-2014, 02:16 PM
Put in the new "temporary" motor mounts this last weekend.

Here's what the old passenger side looked like:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_3789.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_3789.jpg.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_3790.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_3790.jpg.html)

And here's what they both looked like
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_3792.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG_3792.jpg.html)

The new ones will only be in there until I can afford the Brown Dog mounts and plates.

NW99XJ
02-12-2014, 12:14 PM
Ok peeps, here's a little insight to whats been going on in my head lately...
As you know by now, I just recently rebuilt my LCA ends... the reputation for the RC Rod ends is not the best, so I've been doing some research for a little while now and this is what I've come up with.

The eventual plan would be to go with the Metal Cloak Rod Ends... they outflex anything on the market. Period.
There's no better joint to buffer vibration from washboard surfaced trails, or harsh road conditions, etc.

http://www.armoredworks.com/metalcloak/images/PRODUCT_PAGES/images_rev_a/productshots/DuroflexVibration.gif

Metalcloak's Duraflex Joints have very little wear factor. Meaning, you're not replacing joint guts every year or so.

http://www.armoredworks.com/metalcloak/images/PRODUCT_PAGES/images_rev_a/productshots/7105-JointPlusJoint.jpg

There plain and simply is no other joint on the market that offers as much flex as the Duraflex Joints.

http://www.armoredworks.com/metalcloak/images/PRODUCT_PAGES/images_rev_a/productshots/DuroflexMisalignmentFlexAnimation.gif

I found a great video of a comparison of the Duraflex Joint, Johnny Joints, and a typical OEM style Clevite Joint.
Anyone who is thinking of changing out their control arms, or is a huge fan of Johnny Joints, REALLY needs to see this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qN4TpL-LwJQ&feature=youtu.be

Oh and did I mention they accomplish all this without the need to constantly grease it as well?
The joints can be purchased as a stand alone rod-end builder part to add to your own control arms.... (most likely the route I will take)

http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/gxsx2.4xnou/v/vspfiles/photos/7316-1.jpg?1366987438

But honestly, the R&D they've put into their control arms makes it well worth it... IF you want to get arms that is...
No other CA on the market compares to what Metalcloak offers.
Virtually every other CA manufacturer builds their arms misaligned.
Metalcloak arms are the closest you'll get to OEM CA alignment:

http://www.armoredworks.com/metalcloak/images/PRODUCT_PAGES/images_rev_a/productshots/7105-CamparisonJointsAligned-Updated.jpg

Look, I know this all sounds like a commercial and all, but lemme assure you, I'm no salesman, and I have no stake with Metalcloak....
I just like technology that WORKS, and what they're doing to revolutionize the way we think about control arm joints
is the kind of stuff that makes our XJ's perform better than just about any other 4x4 out there.
I do my research folks, and in my opinion, there is no better joint out there, that is as reliable, and performs as well as the Duraflex joint.

I'm still waiting on the long term reviews before I start pulling strings to get a set. But It'll be interesting once I do. Either way...thats the direction i'm leaning... at least for now.

Thanks for reading.

NW99XJ
02-12-2014, 12:18 PM
So here is something else I have been contemplating for a while now.... just haven't dove in on the mod because something else usually came up.
Recently I started the discussion on The XJ Talk Show (http://www.xjtalkshow.com/) about how I've been refreshing my research on the topic of boring the XJ throttle body out. Tips, tricks, techniques, and different methods, etc... during the live show a very nice fan, (and owner of one of the nicest XJ's I've ever seen) Dean Murray (http://www.youtube.com/user/JDeanMurray) popped up and said "I have my old stock one laying around... I'll send it to ya free of charge to play around with" ...sure-nuff, the very next day he must have sent it out, because just a few days after that, it arrived.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG739.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG739.jpg.html)

So the plan now, is to use this throttle body to experiment on, and perfect my technique, make any necessary adjustments and do the final pass on my own throttle body. I DO have access to a machine shop, so it may be more of a documentary on how a throttle body is machined to a larger bore, or it could be a write up on how to do it yourself with a drill press, etc...
We'll see.
Either way, that's whats planned, oh... and the throttle body spacer I have laying around will get bored to match as well....
Stay tuned!

4.3LXJ
02-12-2014, 12:22 PM
I think these might be better for you. I have had exceptional service from my Parts Mike rod ends. But in area like yours with so much mud, I think a sealed joint would ne best

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

Brasscatz
02-12-2014, 12:36 PM
Just looked at the metal cloak page in hopes that they had a good long arm upgrade... they don't do xj's apparently :(

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 because my microwave couldn't do it

NW99XJ
02-12-2014, 01:03 PM
Yea it sucks.... they have such cool stuff... would be nice to get some love for the XJ's.
For now at least, there is not a long arm kit for the XJ's...
In talking with the regional rep here for MC... I was told that there just isnt enough demand for the XJ stuff for them to warrant the necessary R&D to develop lift kits for the Cherokees... this may change, as they have an XJ in their shop right now they're messing around with... but who knows.
That being said... the TJ arms should work for the XJ's, and of course the rod ends, and maybe even the six-pack shocks can work for custom applications.
I'm toying around with the idea of 4-linking the rear, custom long arms F&R, and using MC rod ends all around... the term "Flexes Like a Boneless Stripper" comes to mind.

denverd1
02-12-2014, 01:22 PM
The MC guys told me via email that they're working on XJ stuff, but as Josh mentioned, a lot of TJ stuff should fit ours.

Josh are you going to flow test the TB's? Thinking like shops do for heads.... Not sure those stats would apply to the vacuum side of things, but would be a cool experiment

NW99XJ
02-12-2014, 02:09 PM
The MC guys told me via email that they're working on XJ stuff, but as Josh mentioned, a lot of TJ stuff should fit ours.

Josh are you going to flow test the TB's? Thinking like shops do for heads.... Not sure those stats would apply to the vacuum side of things, but would be a cool experiment
Never thought about it till you said something.... I may have to look. We actually have a test facility just down the way from my work... not sure if they have a flow bench or not, but if they do, I bet I could get a deal on a before and after test. This would be strictly for a numbers comparison and not for any actual R&D... I'm sure companies like Jeepers Creepers have already done this sort of thing.

jimmixj
02-13-2014, 07:58 AM
Nice job!

NW99XJ
03-11-2014, 02:19 PM
Ok peeps, so here's the latest, figured I should give you guys an update of sorts, even though there hasn't been any real progress going on....

Here's where I'm at in my research and what-not with the throttle body project.
The question came up as to whether or not the intake manifold would have to be modified to bore-match the TB once the mods are done....
My initial answer is that I don't believe it will have to be messed with.
And here's my reasoning behind this...
In reference to the boring of the TB and how much material will be removed,
Take a look at these next two pics (courtesy of go.jeep-xj.info) of the 4.0L throttle body and the gasket.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/Throttle007.jpg
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/Throttle008.jpg
You can see the gasket (which matches the opening of the manifold)
...creates the template for what material is to be removed from the throttle body itself.
For those who wish to go bigger, custom gaskets are required (not a big deal, you just cut 'em out yourself.)
But this gives you a visual representation of the difference between the manifold opening and the opening of the T/B.
Here you can see a gasket sitting on the manifold still as the T/B is removed.
http://www.4x4xplor.com/images/TB-spacer/DSC09587.jpg
You'll see the diameters are almost a perfect match, there is a very small difference, but its negligible, and at most may only require a beveling, or corner round if anything at all.
That would be the extent of any mods required to the manifold after the TB mods are done.
This is of course just results of some initial research, and are not 100% conclusive.

I will of course address all this in my own project when the time comes... and of course, you guys can all expect lots of pics and a full write up to boot!

OK... now on to the current state of the XJ....
Not sure if I mentioned in this thread or not, (I know I mentioned it in the last couple episodes of The XJ Talk Show) ...but my last wheeling trip was a little hard on the front end.
After coming down off the trails, I was hearing some knocking, and I've determined that my ball joints are toast. The passenger side I believe is the worst of them all, but in any case, I will be swapping them all out.

I'm leaning towards the Alloy USA Ball Joints right now.
Recently seen them in person, and overall the reviews have been pretty favorable.
On paper they seem to be made pretty well and have several benefits over even the Moog ones.
We'll see. Amazon.com has them right now for under $120 shipped for all 4.
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/182527/182527-add2-lg.jpg

http://www.4mudders.com/images/products/steering/ball-joints/bj2l.jpg

I haven't read any (but 1) negative review of these Alloy USA Ball Joints, and would love to hear from folks about their own experiences with these or other Ball Joints that they would purchase again.

NW99XJ
03-21-2014, 10:13 AM
Ordered up the ball joints, (Alloy USA) and picked up this:
(got a screaming deal on it - couldn't pass it up)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG819.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/IMG819.jpg.html)
Debating on mounting options, but either way, I need to get an isolator and a base for it as well,
....not to mention the mounting tabs/brackets (which I will most likely fab myself.)

nickyg
03-22-2014, 12:21 AM
Debating on mounting options,

The best place to mount it is on top of MY Jeep.

bluedragon436
03-22-2014, 03:51 AM
Looks good, I was working on doing the bored TB myself after finding that I could use the factory gasket as a template... Might work on it some more once the weather warms up a bit, for my next Jeep project.. I like those new ball joints you picked up, will look forward to seeing a review on them once you get them in and get some rides in on them... Did you pick up that Hi-lift through Amazon too??

NW99XJ
03-22-2014, 10:48 PM
I like those new ball joints you picked up, will look forward to seeing a review on them once you get them in and get some rides in on them... Did you pick up that Hi-lift through Amazon too??
Oh will do, I was planning on going out the weekend after the install anyways (give 'em a little time to get broken in) ...Then hit some trails to REALLY break em in.
As for the Hi-Lift, Nope....that was another Craigslist special....$30 for a fairly clean, and fully functioning hi-lift jack....bot too shabby!!!

bluedragon436
04-06-2014, 05:24 PM
Out of curiosity do you happen to know which model #, or set you ordered for your ball joints?? I was looking at Amazon to go ahead and order up a set of for the 90 as I'm sure it's joints are shot, just don't want to order the wrong ones...

NW99XJ
04-07-2014, 08:54 AM
Out of curiosity do you happen to know which model #, or set you ordered for your ball joints?? I was looking at Amazon to go ahead and order up a set of for the 90 as I'm sure it's joints are shot, just don't want to order the wrong ones...

Here's a screen shot of the order,
(P/N: 11801)
Heads up though, in the last couple/few weeks, the price of these has jumped to $150.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/order.png (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/order.png.html)

bluedragon436
04-07-2014, 08:59 AM
Thanks Josh.. That is the same set I was looking at.. I thought $150 was actually a pretty good deal still... Just wanted to make sure I was ordering the proper PN...

NW99XJ
04-07-2014, 02:52 PM
So Saturday was supposed to start out with me doing some work on the Jeep, I got a late start on it... but still got things accomplished.
On the schedule was replacing the OEM (emphasis on ORIGINAL) ball joints, and doing some strengthening while I was at it.
So 8 pm Sat night, I got to work.
got the Jeep in the garage and pulled the axle.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3897.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3897.jpg.html)

The plan was to gusset the C's before I did the ball joint install, and the ball joints would go in afterwards.
Could the C's have been welded with the axle on the Jeep?...
probably, but not with the welder I have.
So Brandon (Bmikes) had offered to help me out with the burn in of said gussets and I gladly accepted.
The next morning Brandon showed up with his truck, and we loaded up the axle and headed over to his place. We got the axle set up and staged for some welding.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3902.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3902.jpg.html)

I went to work on finishing the design and cut-out of the gussets, and Brandon worked on finishing up the burn in of his frame stiffeners.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3901.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3901.jpg.html)

With some cardboard aided design, I got the gusset templates cut, transferred to steel, then cut out and cleaned up/de-burred.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3903.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3903.jpg.html)

I ground down the C's to get rid of a little ridge and to give a better surface to weld on.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3904.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3904.jpg.html)

Brandon did the same to the lower side of the C's and the axle tube.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3905.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3905.jpg.html)

Brandon made (very) quick work of the welding. While he was burning in the gussets, I was cleaning up his welds of his frame stiffeners. (I think I can still taste the metal dust)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3906.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3906.jpg.html)

Yes I know the gussets aren't perfect, but Brandon's welding skills are really coming along nicely, and I think more than make up for it, besides, something's better than nothing, right?
Thanks again for the help Brandon! I couldn't be any more grateful for your help.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3907.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3907.jpg.html)

NW99XJ
04-07-2014, 02:54 PM
The ball joint install did not go without issue.
Getting the old ones out was fun, they didnt come out w/o a fight.
First off the cotter pins on both lowers were rusted and seized in place.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3898.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3898.jpg.html)

Both of them broke off, and needed to be drilled out so that I could get the nuts off.
I know I know.... why bother if your replacing them anyways right?
Good question, I dont know why I did it. Just did it to do it, maybe did it out of habit, I dunno.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3899.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3899.jpg.html)

The uppers weren't MUCH better but still were better off than the lowers.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3900.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3900.jpg.html)

With the axle back in the garage, I bolted it all back up, as I knew that having it under the Jeep would give me the leverage I needed to press these things out. And press them out I did. Luckily I've got the tools, and the adapters and everything I needed to make this job a little easier than without.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3911.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3911.jpg.html)

Some of you may be haters and have nothing but bad things to say about the Harbor Freight 4wd Ball joint Service Kit. But I've had this for several years, and It's been used for countless U-joint services, and to date, 3 different ball joint installs, and more.... And it;s still working as good as the day I bought it.
It all comes down to using your tool the right way. :eyes:
Using the right tools the right way the old ball joints came out without TOO much difficulty. Yes I had to bust out the breaker bar and the BFH... but again, thats what it takes to do this, and knowing how much and when to do what is the difference between having a tool break, and having a tool last.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3909.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3909.jpg.html)

Old ball joints on top, new shiny on the bottom. (Alloy USA 11801)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3910.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3910.jpg.html)

The new ball joints were set in place, and pressed to their new homes.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3912.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3912.jpg.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3913.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3913.jpg.html)

If YOU end up getting the Alloy USA ball joints, be aware of how the lower ones are clocked as you press them in. Otherwise the access point for the grease zirk may end up pointing in a direction that would make service a little hard. This position is a little OVER clocked for my liking, but I can still get to it easy enough.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3915.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3915.jpg.html)

Minus dust caps ...here's a pic of the new ones all put in and ready for the knuckle.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3914.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Ball%20Joints%20And%20C-gussets_04-2014/IMG_3914.jpg.html)

Thats basically it, I'll get a couple more pics up later of everything all buttoned up and installed. It was getting late after everything was done, so I didnt snap any pics of the finished product and the gussets painted.

BIG thanks to Brandon (Bmikes) for the welding. And a special thank you to Wes (92WarWagon) for the assist as well. Glad to have you there for the occasional third hand buddy - it really made a difference.
All the help guys was really appreciated.

07Negative
04-07-2014, 04:16 PM
Hey Josh, have you got a chance to drive on those Ball joints yet? I got the same ones and worried about all the horror stories I've heard about them being wicked stiff for about 500 miles.
Also. Are you running a high steer or cross over? What track bar bracket is that?

NW99XJ
04-07-2014, 04:25 PM
Hey Josh, have you got a chance to drive on those Ball joints yet? I got the same ones and worried about all the horror stories I've heard about them being wicked stiff for about 500 miles.
Also. Are you running a high steer or cross over? What track bar bracket is that?
The (late night) test drive around the block proved uneventful. Jeep seemed nice and tight.
Mind you I'm comparing this against the old and very worn factory ball joints that were in there before.
I have also done a lot of steering upgrades, which may mask the stiffness others would experience.
(frame reinforcement/steering box brace/Durango Steering Box/etc.)
Bottom line?.... I'm happy with these. We'll see what the long term review is like down the road though.
My steering isn't a true high steer, but it IS OTK (over the knuckle) and I'm running an "Inverted-T" design, so it's not crossover.
The track bar and bracket are the Ruff Stuff Panhard Bar Kit. (https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/PANKIT.html)
I'm very happy with my front end now.... it's almost 100% dialed in and has proven to be VERY strong.

07Negative
04-07-2014, 04:53 PM
Thats a heim joint setup if I'm not mistaken? I was kinda on the fence about that idea. Maybe I'll reconsider it. I know I'll need to get my panhard bar up high and the height of that axle bracket looks good for what I'm doing.

bluedragon436
04-07-2014, 05:04 PM
Glad it all seemed to go together smoothly overall Josh... DO you have the "special Dodge" adapter for the ball joint press?? I've got a very similar ball joint kit, and was just wondering if I really had to have those adapters or not when I get ready to do the ball joints on the "new" XJ... granted at least I have a DD that I can drive if I do have to go get them or order them after trying without them...

NW99XJ
04-07-2014, 05:25 PM
No I dont have the special dodge/jeep/mopar adapters....
But I do have both of these, and they seem to work just fine.
Ball Joint Service Kit For 2WD And 4WD Vehicles
Pittsburgh Automotive - Item#4065 (http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-4065.html)
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_21426.jpg

14 Piece Master Ball Joint Adapter Set
Pittsburgh Automotive - Item#60307 (http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-master-ball-joint-adapter-set-60307.html)
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_23473.jpg

4.3LXJ
04-07-2014, 05:33 PM
Nice, I could use that adaptor set

bluedragon436
04-07-2014, 05:34 PM
Did you have to use the master set to do your joints or just the regular set?? I have the regular set already... so guess if I had to pick up the master set... then it wouldn't be that big of a deal... but if I don't need it, then that give me more money to pick up other tools/parts!!

abebehrmann
04-07-2014, 07:20 PM
Did you have to use the master set to do your joints or just the regular set?? I have the regular set already... so guess if I had to pick up the master set... then it wouldn't be that big of a deal... but if I don't need it, then that give me more money to pick up other tools/parts!!

Bleepinjeep on YouTube has a few ball joint videos. I believe he just uses the regular set + a small flat square of scrap metal.

bluedragon436
04-07-2014, 07:28 PM
Bleepinjeep on YouTube has a few ball joint videos. I believe he just uses the regular set + a small flat square of scrap metal.

Yeah I remember seeing that video when I was looking at replacing the joints on my 98.. don't really have a whole lot of scrap metal (like none at all) to use that way... so figured I would try to do it using the proper tools, so figured I'd see if I needed the bigger kit to add to my standard kit..

Dredwolf
04-08-2014, 09:08 AM
Yeah I remember seeing that video when I was looking at replacing the joints on my 98.. don't really have a whole lot of scrap metal (like none at all) to use that way... so figured I would try to do it using the proper tools, so figured I'd see if I needed the bigger kit to add to my standard kit..

I also have both, and while XJ wrenching seems to be a thing of the distant past, the kits have paid for themselves several times over on other repairs


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

NW99XJ
04-08-2014, 09:16 AM
Thats a heim joint setup if I'm not mistaken? I was kinda on the fence about that idea. Maybe I'll reconsider it. I know I'll need to get my panhard bar up high and the height of that axle bracket looks good for what I'm doing.
And whats better is that it has three sets of holes so you can really dial in the angles depending on how you weld it on, and how much your pitman arm drops..... well that and it's 1/4" steel, and more burly than some great big burly thing.


Did you have to use the master set to do your joints or just the regular set?? I have the regular set already... so guess if I had to pick up the master set... then it wouldn't be that big of a deal... but if I don't need it, then that give me more money to pick up other tools/parts!!
I found that a couple components from the regular set and a couple from the master set together worked real well.... As Matt from the Bleeping Jeep videos demonstrated, it's not necessary, but it does help.


Yeah I remember seeing that video when I was looking at replacing the joints on my 98.. don't really have a whole lot of scrap metal (like none at all) to use that way... so figured I would try to do it using the proper tools, so figured I'd see if I needed the bigger kit to add to my standard kit..
Nothing at all wrong with adding more tools to the garage!.... and the bonus is that you may be able to use the kit to help someone out with a different vehicle save some money with a little DIY.
Just for grins and giggles, I tried the Bleepin Jeep method, I didnt have any scrap metal within reach, but I did have a large chisel, so I snagged that, and it was enough to get in there and make up the difference on the angle, but honestly, I dont feel it was even needed. If you set the ball joint and give it a little smack with a dead blow, you can get a nice straight press with the set up I used without worrying about pressing things in crooked.... you just have to watch what your doing, take your time, making sure things are lined up properly, and pay attention to what the ball joint is doing as you press it in.
I did have to "re-set" things once or twice throughout the whole process, but I kind of expected to have to anyways.

OneArmArrowSlinger
04-30-2014, 09:55 AM
Josh, do you notice any decrease in your turning radius w/ the Durango steering box vs. the old XJ?

NW99XJ
04-30-2014, 10:05 AM
The biggest noticeable difference was from all the changes when going to the 1-ton OTK (Over The Knuckle) ... with everything that had to be cut, and with the lack of clearance between the tie rod and the spring bucket, I think THAT was the largest contributing factor to a slightly decreased steering radius.... of course going from a 4.5" back spacing wheel to a 3.5" back spacing wheel also made a difference.... the new wheels/tires, the steering box, as well as the new linkage were all done at once, so it;s hard to say if there was one thing over another that caused a decrease.
Now with that being said... .the change is negligible. And on the road, or on the trail, it's hardly noticeable at all.
The "dead spot" that is commonly associated with tie rod roll on the type of steering system I now have was the hardest thing to get used to.... I have contemplated switching to heims to see if that would eliminate this... but it's not that big of a deal to me yet.

OneArmArrowSlinger
04-30-2014, 10:10 AM
Sweet, thanks

4.3LXJ
04-30-2014, 11:07 AM
Something you all might want to consider. Tereflex has a one ton off set tie rod end to take care of that

NW99XJ
04-30-2014, 11:13 AM
Something you all might want to consider. Tereflex has a one ton off set tie rod end to take care of that

Yea I saw those, i was worried about wheel clearance with a 15" rim, so I kept with the standard ones....
Ruff-Stuff (https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREOFF.html) has the offset TRE's as well....
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/graphics/00000001/offset%20tres.jpg

4.3LXJ
04-30-2014, 11:15 AM
They will clear the 15" stock rim.

NW99XJ
07-21-2014, 04:40 PM
Well i guess its been a while since I've updated my thread... with all the talking about it on the podcast, I guess getting you guys some pics has slipped my mind a bit.
So here's whats happened over the last few months.

Went on a wheeling trip, ended up going alone, as the group I was supposed to meet, left early, or I was late, or a combination of the two.
I sort of knew the trail routes they were going to hit, so after the staging area, I went about trying to track them down.
About 3/4 of the way down the second trail I noticed the jeep wasn't turning very well.
It was taking me two, three, sometimes five attempts to make a simple corner.
I knew something was up.... so i limped my way down the rest of the trail, got to the logging road, and saw that my track bar mount had sheared almost completely off the frame. So with some quick work with a ratchet strap, I got it to where it was able to get back to the staging area.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG946.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG946.jpg.html)

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG945.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG945.jpg.html)

Once down there, I did a good once over, and tightened the strap up, crossed my fingers and made the slow and death wobble filled journey home.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG916.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG916.jpg.html)

That was a fun drive, death wobble from hell ....more than a few times,
Got pulled over buy a state patrol saying I was doing 71 mph.... not with a sheared off track bar I wasn't!!!!!!
Since he obviously hates anyone with a lifted rig, or just hates Jeeps, either way he did the only thing left that he had the power to do after pulling someone over who called bullshit on his attempt to hand out a fraudulent ticket.... he gave me one for a fender flare violation. :smiley-finger007:
(the speeding ticket probably would have been less.)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG947.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG947.jpg.html)

4.3LXJ
07-21-2014, 04:46 PM
I have had that happen before too. I got accused of speeding in a stock Samurai. I called bullshit to and said it was not capable, and since it was completely he verbally warned me.

NW99XJ
07-21-2014, 04:54 PM
Once home, I got to work right away assessing the extent of the damage.
The 1/4" thick steel gussett on the outside was completely broken in half...
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG950.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG950.jpg.html)

There were all kinds of cracks and breaks, and obviously, the welds of the mount did not penetrate past the first layer of sheet metal.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG949.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG949.jpg.html)

There were signs of the pinch welds being torn right out thru the unibody/frame.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG951.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG951.jpg.html)

I cut all the loose stuff off....
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG953.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG953.jpg.html)

...and began woke on getting things cleaned up and prepped for repair.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG954.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG954.jpg.html)

More had to be cut, holes had to be filled and ground, and all the grime, gunk, and undercoating had to be all cleaned up as well.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG952.jpg (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/jbchill1/media/Track%20Bar%20repair%20May%202014/IMG952.jpg.html)

After that.... it sat.... for like a full month....being totally neglected.
Between this happeneing in the first place, and getting that insanely fat ticket, I was just pissed and hating life, ....AND my jeep.
After a while I finally got more motivation, finished my prep, and handed the jeep off to a buddy to help with the welding. (i prob COULD have done it, but I would rather have more "trustworthy" welds on something liek this than what I would have laid down.)