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workgoats
07-16-2012, 01:21 PM
Having bought a 89 XJ for the transmission to go in my daughter's XJ. I couldn't let it all go to waste.

I started with a fairly good looking 89 Cherokee. The engine was toast. We bought it for the transmission which was transplanted into my daughter's 88.

http://workgoats.com/images2/img_1-17-2012_02_500X375.JPG

I built one of those fancy devices to rotate a vehicle around so you could easily work on the bottom.

http://workgoats.com/images/img_2-1-2012_05a_500x328.jpg

When I got through cutting on the XJ, this is what I ended up with.

http://workgoats.com/images/img_2-2-12_06a_500x374.jpg

I built the beginning of the frame with 2x3 tubing. There will later be a 2x2 tubing frame member that the floor is bolted to.

http://workgoats.com/images/rolling_frame_1_500x375.jpg

The engine is a 318 that was removed from a running Ramcharger to make room for a Magnum 360. The transmission is a 904 built from a 2x Ramcharger front case and the balance from a 80's Eagle SX-4.

http://workgoats.com/images2/img_0008_500x375.jpg

The transfer is a NP242 from the 89 Cherokee. The input gear had the wrong spline count for the Eagle transmission but Novak people provided the right one.

http://workgoats.com/images/transfer1_500x375.jpg

I did a final square up on the frame and welded a piece of 1/8" plate above the rear axle and the shock mounts to hold it where it belonged.

http://workgoats.com/images2/3-19_01_500x375.jpg

I had in mind what I wanted it to look like. The plan is to get a Texas title for a Willys replica. I went as far as putting up a concept drawing and lined out a plan for the grille.

http://workgoats.com/images/concept_1_500x279.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images/grille1_500x321.jpg

4.3LXJ
07-16-2012, 02:20 PM
Is this where you are headed?

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Car%20Shows%20and%20Yards/2011-07-09_14-44-44_564.jpg

bigbuk29
07-16-2012, 02:30 PM
:popcorn:

workgoats
07-16-2012, 04:46 PM
My first concept drawing was based on a Jeepster but I don't have the tools to do curves. I've tried a couple but the concept changed a little as I went along.

After the frame was established, I centered my time on fabrication of the grille. I planned it to look like a 1948 +/- Willys but I changed the number of vertical bars.

http://workgoats.com/images/grille2_500x375.jpg

I first thought it would sit on top of the front cross member but it was too high. I was too hard headed to redesign it so I modified it a little and mounted it 6" lower.

I found headlight buckets in a couple of old Dodge pickups. One came from a 1953 3/4 ton stake bed and the other from a 1955 half ton pickup.

http://workgoats.com/images/grille3_500x375.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images/grille4_500x375.jpg

The vertical bars are light weight 1" square tubing. Modifications to the grille continued. Part of the front fenders are welded to the grille and bolted to the remainder of the fender, allowing removal of the front end (for when I install a bigger engine).

http://workgoats.com/images2/3-31_02_500x375.jpg

The parking lights came from kaiserwillys.com (http://kaiserwillys.com). That is the same source I used for the CJ instrument panel that I bought.

The radiator was purchased from Speedway and it was a tight fit. Part of the reason it was such a tight fit was the lowering of the grille. It made the radiator come down into the sway bar. I lowered the sway bar some and proceeded onward.

oderdene
07-16-2012, 05:42 PM
very nice build, good luck bro.

Btw, red truck above also built one?

workgoats
07-16-2012, 07:14 PM
very nice build, good luck bro.

Btw, red truck above also built one?

It has a 82 Ramcharger frame, TBI 360 from 90 D150, 727, 208 with 3.90/3.92 gears. I built the body originally on a 56 Willys frame and moved it to the RC after rear ended and rolled. It was put on the road in 2009 and I've put 50K miles on it. (It will never be finished.)

The body work is really not very good but people seem to overlook that.

workgoats
07-16-2012, 07:18 PM
The grille wasn't sturdy enough at first. When I added the fender extensions it helped a little. After the fenders were built, I filled in the inner fenders and added some structure to the back of the grille assembly.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-7_02a_500x322.jpg

The radiator had to go so far up in the grille assembly that I had to make a little door for access to the radiator cap.

I built a base for the battery...

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-7_03_500x375.jpg

...and hooked up the power steering.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-7_04_500x375.jpg

The seats are several inches rear of normal location for a XJ. The steering shaft was completed using a 1996 Dodge 1500 steering shaft, a pillar bearing and half of a Cherokee shaft. The pillar bearing was attached to the inner fender to help provide clearance around the exhaust manifold on the 318.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-1_01_500x375.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-1_02_500x375.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-1_03_500x375.jpg

The bearing and a u-joint are prety close to the exhaust manifold. I plan on placing a heat shield between them before it hits the road.

Brasscatz
07-16-2012, 07:29 PM
You have my attention! Nicely done!

workgoats
07-16-2012, 07:58 PM
I started all of this during January. Where we are now would have been in April. I am working on it every spare minute, trying to have it where I could take it, unfinished, to Hidden Falls Adventure Park on June 1st for a Ramcharger group meeting.

----------------------------------

With the flat floor, the shifter needed to be raised up to reach it. I started here with a surplus electrical enclosure panel. The entire truck is made from these. I measured and marked the pieces for the shifter base.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-12_01_500x375.jpg

I cut the pieces out, using my soon to be history Harbor Freight grinder. (It has really lasted a while.)

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-12_02_500x375.jpg

In order to get the mig welder to weld decent, the paint has to be removed from the immediate area of the welds. I removed it with another Harbor Freight grinder and a sander wheel.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-12_03_500x378.jpg

I had a little help that day to align the pieces. My welding looked like this.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-12_04_500x372.jpg

After it was dressed up (welds ground smooth) the shifter was bolted to the top and it was welded to the floor panel. I will come back in a day or two to hook the other end up to the transmission.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-13_01_500x381.jpg

To show that I had really working on it, here is where I stopped one night on the dash. The gauges and speedometer would all be mounted and dash wiring started soon.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-13_02_500x375.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-13_03_500x375.jpg

4.3LXJ
07-16-2012, 10:06 PM
That windshield is definitely heavy duty

bigbuk29
07-16-2012, 10:21 PM
this thing is awsome

XJ Wheeler
07-17-2012, 12:56 AM
Nice job Ron, quite an inspirational build. Your basically building a tuck from nothing, minus retrain of course. Good metalwork too.

Btw, you've made me feel immensely lazy. Thanks.

workgoats
07-17-2012, 07:56 AM
Thanks for the nice comments. I didn't realize my employment was about to go down the drain. One thing I had done was collect a lot of supplies (grinding discs, gasses and stuff like that).

-----------------------------------------------

This was the first time I managed to roll it outside the garage. It may not look like much has been done, but I have been working on it. I had to remove the floor and add bracing for the seats when I determined where they would sit. I've also spent a bunch of time on wiring.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-14_01_500x372.jpg

There is still a bunch of grinding to do. I don't even want to think about painting.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-14_02_500x406.jpg

It won't be long before all the wiring is ready for startup. I'm working on stuff behind the dash now.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-14_03_500x375.jpg

The dash is in place and a bunch of wiring has been done since these pics were taken.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-14_04_500x375.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-14_05_500x375.jpg

I really need to get something in the back to hold the rear axle down. (gas tank, roll cage, spare rack, tool box, rear bumper, hitch...)

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-14_06_500x375.jpg

Here are a few pics of the progress over the next few days.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-19_01_500x375.jpg
http://workgoats.com/images2/4-19_02_500x375.jpg

The last two pics were taken on 4-29. I still had a vision of taking it to Hidden Falls at this point, knowing nothing about any problems.

http://workgoats.com/images2/4-29_01a_500x292.jpg
http://workgoats.com/images2/4-29_02_500x375.jpg

Mudderoy
07-17-2012, 08:53 AM
And someone was just bitching the other day that they were surprised we didn't have more custom builds here! :camera: :popcorn:

workgoats
07-17-2012, 09:46 AM
Here we were at May 18. I still planned on trailering it to Hidden Falls in about 2 weeks.

--------------------------------------

I managed to drive it out of the garage today and turn it around. It goes forwards and backwards.

I found that the one wheel cylinder that I elected not to replace will still get to be replaced. Should have done it to start with.

I have a transmission pan leak. The pan is damaged and a new one is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow.

I have removed the back seats from the red truck to have room for Ram Jam stuff and will be installing the seat belts from there into the Willyreplica. I have another set coming to replace the borrowed ones.

I have also installed a compressor for on board air but it doesn't have any oil in it so it will just serve as an idler for the alternator belts. Also, there isn't a tank yet. I have the idea that it could be used with a portable tank plugged into the quick connect fitting.

And YES, it needs larger tires and doors and a hood. It will get them all some day.

http://workgoats.com/images2/5-18_06_500x375.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images2/5-18_02_500x375.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images2/5-18_04_500x375.jpg

Carves
07-17-2012, 10:00 AM
I had in mind what I wanted it to look like. The plan is to get a Texas title for a Willys replica. I went as far as putting up a concept drawing and lined out a plan for the grille.


A Texas title ???

So this will be a street legal vehicle ???


Looking forward to seeing the finished result ... :cool:

bigbuk29
07-17-2012, 02:15 PM
this post is inspiring in so many ways, please keep sharing and keep up the great work.

workgoats
07-17-2012, 03:59 PM
A Texas title ???

So this will be a street legal vehicle ???


Looking forward to seeing the finished result ... :cool:

In Texas we have a provision for securing a title and a VIN on a home made vehicle. Has to be insured first, inspected 2nd with some extra forms filled out.

I live in a minimum emissions county but I understand that a home made vehicle has even less restrictions. I may have to install a charcoal canister but I think that might be it.

Then you have to convince someone in government that you haven't stolen too many of the various parts.

Apparently they will inspect the vehicle and look at documents on the major parts. They issue a VIN.

At some point you have to pay some taxes. Most likely that will be when the tag is purchased from the county tax office. I think they will generate an actual title.

I originally thought about putting a fiberglass t-bucket on it but was afraid they would want to title it as a Ford replica. That is why I started on the grill to look like a Willys. I have faith that I can get it titled as a Willys Replica.

Although I haven't been through this process, some of the guys at my NAPA store have and they will help me through it with minimum problems. They want me to continue to buy most of my parts there...:smiley-gen165:

workgoats
07-17-2012, 05:15 PM
In prep for the rig to go to Hidden Falls on June 1, I replaced both front axle u-joints and a couple of ball joints on May 25th. I lowered it to the floor and went to drive it out to turn it around and work on the rear bumper.

The transmission cratered before I got the front wheels out of the garage.

That ended the possibility of taking the rig to Hidden Falls.

Then several days later (after returning from Hidden Falls with my red truck).

----------------------------------------

I started tearing down the rig to replace the broken transmission. Here is what I found when I removed the floor.

http://workgoats.com/images2/6-13_01a_500x312.jpg

It does certainly appear that the malfunction is in the transmission...

A recap: This transmission is a 904. The case is from a mid-80s 2x RC. The innards are from an 82 or 84 Jeep Eagle SX-4. I put it together years ago for a project that got cancelled.

I set out to put this on a 318 and to install a 242 transfer out of a Cherokee. The Jeep transfer had the wrong spline count to match the transmission and I changed the input gear to match the spline count on the tranny. I didn't use the right length on the input gear.

Here are the comparisons between the 904 and the 727.

http://workgoats.com/images2/6-13_03_500x431.jpg

I found parts of the governor in the driveway and felt that was what cratered. Here is what it looked like when I pulled the adapter off the end of the 904.

http://workgoats.com/images2/6-13_08_447x500.jpg

I think this cratered because I did not check the differences between the Jeep parts and the Dodge parts.

Here is the adapter end of the Jeep transmission, followed by the end of the Dodge transmission.

There is a big difference between the distances. The Jeep adapter is much shorter and has a seal after the governor. The Dodge is over 2 inches deeper and does not have a seal.

http://workgoats.com/images2/6-13_04_500x394.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images2/6-13_05_500x407.jpg

The input gear that I installed in the transfer case had the right spline count but may have been too long. The parts of the governor did not show any contact with the gear and there are no scratches on the gear but it might have had something to do with it.

Here are pics of a 208 and the 242 after I have installed the new gear. There is a bunch of difference but I do not have the transfer that originally came on the Jeep transmission so I don't know what it looked like.


http://workgoats.com/images2/6-13_06_500x381.jpg


http://workgoats.com/images2/6-13_07_500x425.jpg


It appears to me that the 242 will fit on the Dodge adapter without any conflicts. The spline count is correct and the bolt pattern is the same but I will be measuring for interior clearance at least 4 times before I put the two together.:banghead:

workgoats
07-17-2012, 07:20 PM
Still have to finish the rear fenders and rear bumper, make doors, add mirrors and windshield, install the 727 and build driveshafts. And, figure out how to build a little pickup bed on the back...

The 904 transmission is now replaced with a 727. The adapter is much longer and ended up raising the transmission and transfer about an inch. The transmission is larger in the bellhousing area too. So, I ended up removing flooring and structure as well.

Here's what it looked like when I got ready to start back with the floor.

http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_01.jpg

I have already spent at least a day rebuilding the transmission shifter. I am using the shifter from the 89 Cherokee. I had to approach the transmission from the wrong direction but it didn't make a lot of difference because the Jeep transmission (4 speed) and the 727 have different throw lengths and it would have taken a bell crank of some sort even if I wasn't changing direction.

Here is what the final (tack welded only) hump looks like.

http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_17.jpg

I still need to fill in the space right against the firewall, but that's another day. This project took all of this one.

I will add additional pics in another post, showing piece by piece how I built the new hump over the transmission and transfer. The goal was to keep the floor as low as possible.

I will not accept comments on my tack welds. :rolleyes:

workgoats
07-18-2012, 07:18 AM
I replaced the floor structure with pieces that could be removed for future problems.
http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_02.jpg

Of course the floor had to be removable too.
http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_03.jpg

I was out of the material and no more was available so I pieced it in using scraps.

http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_05.jpg

I went from side to side until I was ready to start on the top cover.
http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_06.jpg
http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_08.jpg
http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_09.jpg

The top cover was tacked on, marked for the transfer shifter from the XJ. It had been modified for the original transmission. I moved the shift point above the shaft into the transfer and did away with the bell crank.

http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_10.jpg
http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_11.jpg

Political signs make very usable templates.

http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_12.jpg
http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_13.jpg
http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_14.jpg

I cut down the transmission shifter tower to make up for the raised floor and grafted it on.
http://workgoats.com/images/6-20_17.jpg

I eventually came back and pulled the hump, finished the welding, dressed it up and painted it black.

workgoats
07-18-2012, 08:09 PM
http://vimeo.com/44550481

cantab27
07-18-2012, 08:23 PM
thats way coolies sir..............

workgoats
07-19-2012, 08:14 PM
I have built and installed a fan shroud out of scrap aluminum. I also changed out the original fan for a 6 bladed fan from a '90 360 (D-350).

http://workgoats.com/images/06-28_01.jpg

I have also built a rear bumper and covered up the gas tank.

http://workgoats.com/images/06-28_02.jpg

And, I have closed up the last of the hump over the new transmission. When I pull the hump to weld it up, there is one little corner that will need some backing put back where I cut too much out for the new tranny.

http://workgoats.com/images/06-28_03.jpg

workgoats
09-09-2012, 06:34 AM
So, to cure the motor mount / differential top control arm contact, I decided to raise the front a little and make it stiffer.

You will have to pardon the pic quality in these.

Here is the before pic with the suspension all the way down.

http://www.workgoats.com/images2/x_before.jpg

SixGun helped me secure a set of springs from a Grand Cherokee with a V-8. We don't really know if these are stock springs or not. They are stiffer than I expected. Here is a pic of one of the original springs and one of the replacements from the Grand Cherokee.

http://workgoats.com/images2/x_springs.jpg

The springs may be a little larger in diameter but they do have an additional coil in the save distance.

I had a fear the height was not enough so I decided to add an inch of spacer. I found a guy who had done this before and I did something similar, starting with a couple of cutting blocks bought from the grocery store.

http://workgoats.com/images2/x_spacer1.jpg

The center holes were drilled out with a hole saw and the outside cut with a jig saw. The circle drawn in between is the amount that has to be beveled out to fit the spring tower. I beveled it out with a dremel tool. It was down and dirty. I may never get all the plastic stuff out of the garage.

http://workgoats.com/images2/x_spacer2.jpg

Here is what it looked like when I got it all back together.

http://workgoats.com/images2/x_after.jpg

Total lift at the front was 2 1/2 inches. That was actually what I was hoping for. After getting it back out on the street, I have decided not to lift the back now. I like the way it sits now.

I don't know about the function of the front sway bar. I have custom mounted it to both clear and protect the bottom of the radiator. Both links sheared when I took it loose so I have rebuilt the links and lengthened them a little.

I also added a 2" extension to the bump stop to be sure the axle does not make contact with the motor mount. I made that with 2" pieces of tubing and a washer welded to each end. One has a nut welded inside and the other has a bolt. I screwed the extra two inches in and then screwed the original bump stop into the extension.

You can see the extension in the after picture. I drove it over some dips in our street but it hasn't had a real test. I have a tow bar on it today and this afternoon I will take it to where I work. We have a driveway about a half mile long and I intend to drive it back in forth long enough to see how the radiator holds up. We also have a couple of gullies and I might see what it will do off the road a little.

bluedragon436
09-09-2012, 07:30 AM
This seems like a really cool build... Can't wait to see more of it as it progresses...

4.3LXJ
09-09-2012, 09:09 AM
Looking good. I like to do fab work too.

Brasscatz
09-09-2012, 11:14 AM
Happy to see an update on this build! I like the cutting board idea

oderdene
09-09-2012, 06:08 PM
cutting board idea is really amazing, i like this. good luck bro

workgoats
09-16-2012, 07:25 PM
I have installed a tow bar in order to haul the project out to where I can do a little test driving. I will design some "D" links that will attach to the tow points for extraction (although it shouldn't be needed).

http://workgoats.com/images/09-16_01.jpg

I have basically finished the structure for the hood. It is hinged from the left fender. I expect to skin it later this week with a fiberglass panel and pop rivets. It can be re-skinned with sheet metal later if needed.

http://workgoats.com/images/09-16_02.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images/09-16_04.jpg

I still have a lot of grinding to do, especially around the window frame. I have to have the front driveshaft rebuilt and a windshield installed. I WILL be ready for Hidden Falls in October.

4.3LXJ
09-16-2012, 07:34 PM
Looks like you are ready for some skin on that hood

workgoats
09-30-2012, 10:41 PM
I have begun work on the doors and the hood again. Here is what the door opening looked like before I started.

http://workgoats.com/images/09-20_01a.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images/09-20_02a.jpg

The doors will be framed with light weight 2" square tubing. I will also put a 3/4" square tube around the sides and bottom to allow for a lip to seal against another 3/4" tubing attached inside the opening.

http://workgoats.com/images/09-20_03a.jpg

With the 3/4" tubing tacked around the sides and bottom, I installed spacers and clamped the pieces in place to be tack welded and then removed to be welded up.

http://workgoats.com/images/09-20_04a.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images/09-20_05a.jpg

I have temporarily skinned the door with fiberglass (FRP) panel and installed the tubing in the door opening. I have attached hinges as well but have a clearance problem with the steering wheel. I made the body so narrow that the steering wheel is too close to the door.

I think I can solve that problem but it won't happen till tomorrow. I will post pictures on that too. (when I remember to take them)

I took a sheet of the FRP and cut it closer to size for the hood skin.

http://workgoats.com/images/09-30_01a.jpg

If you are not familiar with the term FRP, it is a fiberglass panel used in bathrooms and many commercial kitchens. It is 1/16" thick and textured on the front. I have turned the textured side inside and using the flat, back side for the skin on the hood.

After installing enough rivets to insure the clearances would not change on the hood, I pulled the hood and began to work from the center toward the edges.

http://workgoats.com/images/09-30_02a.jpg

I managed to get one side basically completed and rough trimmed to the framework before I had to call it a day. Hopefully I can get back on both of these project areas tomorrow.

http://workgoats.com/images/09-30_03a.jpg

cj4a nz
10-01-2012, 03:59 AM
love it,your working faster than my rebuild

workgoats
10-07-2012, 03:47 PM
Here are some pics we took today. My daughter is driving through a gully behind where I work.
http://workgoats.com/images/10-07_01.jpg
http://workgoats.com/images/10-07_02.jpg
http://workgoats.com/images/10-07_03.jpg
http://workgoats.com/images/10-07_04.jpg

cantab27
10-07-2012, 04:25 PM
now thats cool.......

jonb8
11-14-2012, 04:46 AM
I love this build...

workgoats
11-16-2012, 06:42 AM
Here are a couple of short videos from the first trip to an off road park.

http://vimeo.com/53674705

http://vimeo.com/53674704

4.3LXJ
11-16-2012, 10:35 AM
Very nice. I see you have added some metal since your last post. Your windshield came out looking nice. Be sure to keep us posted on further progress

workgoats
11-16-2012, 04:30 PM
Currently doing some wiring remodeling. I'm simplifying the fuse panel. I have rebuilt an older Ramcharger box with wires and fuses to match what I actually have on the truck. I also have to move the ignition module and voltage regulator to make room for the heater. While I'm at it, I plan to remove, remodel and re-install the wiper system to get better coverage on the windshield.

Add a leaf system for the rear is ordered. We will see if this makes it more trail worthy. It should lift the back end by about 2.5 inches.

Also in planning mode for closing in the back of the cab and designing a pickup bed to go on the back, as well as raising the rear bumper for a better departure angle.

4.3LXJ
11-16-2012, 06:25 PM
Sounds very cool. Looking forward to seeing that cab enclosed

workgoats
11-18-2012, 08:57 PM
I can't find my camera and the pics are from my phone. Don't be surprised if these come up upside down or something.

First pic is the bumper. Since a couple of guys claimed it was too low, I have raised it 5". I did some work on it after the pic but it is still not finished yet.

http://workgoats.com/images/willyreplica_bumper.jpg

Here is the new fuse block. It is from some undetermined year model of Dodge P/U or RC. I have rewired it to include what is on the vehicle now and what I intend to add, with one spare for something new...

http://workgoats.com/images/willyreplica_fuses.jpg

Next pics are of the heater. They are hard to see. One is from the passenger door. There is a conflict with the transfer shifter just out of the pic to the left. I need to re-do the shifter anyway so this will be resolved. By the way, you can see a zip tie holding the cable to the gas pedal. That was not part of my build. Seems Ryan and Richard did this while I was in camp.

http://workgoats.com/images/willyreplica_heater.jpg

The other pic is of the firewall. All the ignition and voltage stuff has been reinstalled. The blower motor can be seen and the hose bibs stick out through all the wiring to the right. I haven't hooked them up yet because I don't have a valve to regulate the water flow yet. When I get everything working as it needs to be I plan to re-do the wiring on the firewall to clean it up.

The thing may be worn out by the time I get it done.

http://workgoats.com/images/willyreplica_firewall.jpg

4.3LXJ
11-18-2012, 10:20 PM
:thumbsup:

workgoats
11-22-2012, 12:52 PM
I installed add-a-leaf springs on the back from Iron Rock Offroad. Since I don't have any weight on the back now, it lifted the back 3 3/4". More than the 2 1/2" or so that I was aiming for.

That made the rear driveshaft angle too much for the yoke out of the transfer. I have temporarily ground it enough to drive it around but will next look into elimination of the slip joint and installation of a constant velocity joint.

I will eventually get more weight on the back, more sheet metal, spare, small pickup bed and tools. Hopefully those items and a little driving around will drop it down just a little.

4.3LXJ
11-22-2012, 12:54 PM
You can do a cheap fix with a YJ slip yoke if you want. It will accommodate more angle.

workgoats
11-23-2012, 06:10 AM
You can do a cheap fix with a YJ slip yoke if you want. It will accommodate more angle.

Thanks for the info. I already have wedges that should modify the pinon angle on the axle and I think I will go with a constant velocity joint. I've been looking at the slip yoke eliminators and will do one of those before I take it out again.

I may be March before I get a chance to spend a few days away from town.

We have a first class driveshaft shop here that does me some cut rate work because my work spends a lot of money there

4.3LXJ
11-23-2012, 09:37 AM
Good plan. The SYE is the way to go

workgoats
12-09-2012, 01:32 AM
Okay, I got a new camera...

These first two pics are of the modified rear bumper, raised 5 inches. Bump stops were added to help reinforce it and the receiver for the hitch is attached to an angle crossing from side to side under the gas tank.

Departure angle is greatly improved.

http://workgoats.com/images/12-09_01a.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images/12-09_02a.jpg

I installed an add-a-leaf kit from Iron Rock Off Road. They are a Jeep supplier.

The lift was more than I actually wanted but it should come back down a little as I finish the back of the vehicle.

http://workgoats.com/images/12-09_06a.jpg

The added height caused problems with the u-joint at the transfer case. It did not handle the added angle. I ground on the yoke for a while until it didn't hit the caps anymore but ordered a slip yoke eliminator from Iron Rock.

Here are pics of both ends of the rear driveshaft and the parts I received for the slip yoke removal.

http://workgoats.com/images/12-09_03a.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images/12-09_04a.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images/12-09_05a.jpg

Driveshaft removed:
http://workgoats.com/images/12-09_07a.jpg

Rear housing removed:

http://workgoats.com/images/12-09_08a.jpg

Just a little over an inch of the shaft was removed. The center of the shaft is not hardened. I drilled it out, tapped it and installed the new yoke with a 3/8 in bolt to hold it on. The adapter is milled aluminum and holds the new oil seal.

http://workgoats.com/images/12-09_09a.jpg

Next steps will be turning the differential toward the transfer to eliminate vibration due to the addition of a double cardan joint at the transfer. I get this from a front driveshaft that Richard is holding (whenever we can get together).

In a standard XJ, the rear driveshaft would be replaced with a stock front driveshaft, making both front and rear identical. This won't happen to me since I went from the 904 tranny to the 727 and had to shorten the driveshaft.

I will have pics soon of the re-alignment of the rear axle but it will require new u-bolts and I will be beefing up the spring top plates too. The wedges/shims required to turn the axle also require some modifications to the bolt holding the springs together.

workgoats
12-12-2012, 09:37 PM
The rear axle is now bolted back to the springs. I had to extend the bottom of the bolt through the springs by adding a spacer. The wedge to correct the angle of the pinon shaft had a hole all the way through it.

I was fed up with the spring plate and we fabricated new ones, using 1/2" plate. I like it.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/12-12_01.jpg

And here is a look at the back of the wedge.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/12-12_02.jpg

workgoats
12-27-2012, 07:24 PM
As I got older, I found it harder to turn around in the seat and back safely. I also hate getting out of the truck 5 or 6 times to get a trailer hooked up to the hitch. So, I'm back on a rear view/backup camera system for this vehicle.

In the past I have used both hard wired and wireless cameras. In the red truck I have a 7" monitor with one wireless input and one AV input. I put a security camera in the bumper.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0102a.jpg

This was a good application except for the fact that it does not have sufficient field of vision to see the top of the trailer ball. You can back up close to the trailer but you cannot tell when you are in the right location.

To cure this I took a wireless camera that I bought some time back (with the monitor) and installed it up under the spare. It looks down directly on the hitch and makes hookup a breeze.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0104a.jpg

Then at Shiloh Ridge I came fairly close to running over a guy on a 4-wheeler sitting at the top of a hill. I guess he didn't think there was a way in the world for such an ugly truck to make it to the top of the hill. I couldn't see him until I broke over the top of the hill. To solve that problem I installed another wireless camera in the grille. It was pointed downward enough to see right in front of the bumper.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0105a.jpg

I put the two wireless cameras on an A/B switch. The security camera in the bumper is a 9 volt camera and I used a solid state voltage regulator but the power supply that came with the camera put out over 14 volts so I think the camera would work fine on battery voltage.

As of today, neither of the wireless cameras work.

I have purchased a new security camera for the Willyreplica. It is identical to the one in the bumper shown above. It came from Harbor Freight and they are often on sale for $30 or so. Here is the complete package.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0100a.jpg

With a little help from a salesperson at Best Buy, I found a 7" monitor designed for a backup camera on-line. This monitor has two AV inputs and is powered by a switch or by a lead to the backup light so that it will come on when the vehicle is put in reverse.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0101a.jpg

This monitor came with an adapter that would let you install it directly in the dash. It also has a stand. Since I don't have a space big enough in my little dash, I will use the stand.

I plan to mount the camera above the rear bumper and place it on a hinged mount so that I can tilt it downward enough to see the trailer ball or high enough to look backwards both on the trail and on the highway. The jury is still out on what I will use for the linear actuator to move it up and down.

4.3LXJ
12-27-2012, 07:26 PM
That is a great idea. I think I need one of these

XJ Wheeler
12-27-2012, 08:43 PM
Nicely done!

workgoats
12-29-2012, 07:20 AM
Working on the rear view camera...

The first thing I have done is remove the base from the camera.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0111.jpg

Then I modified a gate hinge and built a cradle for the camera. I used part of the same plastic cutting board that I used to make the front spring spacers.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0112.jpg

I clamped it to the top of the bumper. (This is NOT a permanent mounting.)

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0114.jpg

And this is the night vision view out the door of my garage, Christmas lights and all. There was some light out there, but the camera was in night vision mode.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0119.jpg

Then, this would most likely be the amount of tilt that I would want.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0116.jpg

This is the night vision view of the trailer ball from the tilted camera. There was very little ambient light there so this would be the view backing to a trailer with no backup lights. We are looking at the concrete drive, garage floor and a concrete block sitting just out on the edge of the drive.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0118.jpg

There may be some sun today and if I can I will move it outside and look at the views again without the night vision.

Next problem is the linear actuator that would be needed to move and control the tilt of the camera. I'm working on that.

gary63
12-29-2012, 09:27 AM
you might think about RC servo they have some that are hd and waterproof and come in defferet sizes.

workgoats
12-29-2012, 05:24 PM
you might think about RC servo they have some that are hd and waterproof and come in defferet sizes.

I have ordered a 2" throw device from Firgelliauto.com. Their device has limit switches at both ends and is very small. It should hide behind the bumper and provide the travel by way of a small bell crank.

I have bell cranks on both shifters already. One more won't be anything new.

gary63
12-29-2012, 05:36 PM
I'm watching you on this one becouse I'm been thinking of somthing like that keep up the good work.

workgoats
01-14-2013, 09:20 PM
I have been working on the rear view/backup camera on the project. I have built a device to tilt the camera so that I can see the camera ball when hitching up a trailer. On the previous truck I mounted a second camera behind the spare tire. I found that it was okay in the daylight but at night there was insufficient light to see the trailer ball.

I have rigged this one up to tilt toward the ball. This camera is a night vision security camera, bought on sale from Harbor Freight for less than $40. The monitor was bought on-line from a Best Buy site for about $40.00. The linear actuator was purchased on line and it cost about $105. Who knows what the switch in the dash will require. It will have to be a double pole, double throw rocker arm switch to match the others.

Here is the mechanism to tilt the camera. I had to modify the backing plate some to get it behind my bumper and since it was so hard to get it installed I will not be pulling it out to paint it. (At least not in the near future.)

http://workgoats.com/images/01-13-13_01a.jpg

Here is a short video of the camera tilting and the view on the monitor when you tilt the camera. The truck is in the garage and it is at night. It was cold enough it should have been showing... The garage door was not open long.

vimeo.com/57419018

4.3LXJ
01-14-2013, 09:39 PM
not bad at all

Brasscatz
01-16-2013, 08:04 PM
That's pretty darn nifty! Now I want one!

workgoats
01-16-2013, 08:20 PM
That's pretty darn nifty! Now I want one!

You will be messing up my playhouse. I figure I'm the only idiot with one, at least for a while...:smiley-laughing021:

workgoats
02-22-2013, 07:49 PM
I have started building the cab. I had originally planned on using the same radius at the back of the cab as the cowling and fender radius'. However, I just simply don't have the time now.

Here is the start. First picture is hard to see what I have done due to the white on white of the pic.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_01a.jpg

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_02a.jpg

I have installed a battery isolater to keep the battery for the winch charged.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_08a.jpg

Here is the battery for the winch and the tank for the on-board air. Both are located in a compartment behind the cab and in front of the gas tank. I will have a door in the bed of the "pickup bed" to allow access. The air line will extend into the compartment over the gas tank where I plan to store the straps and stuff.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_03a.jpg

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_04a.jpg

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_05a.jpg

Here is where I started with the winch today. It had steel rope and I used an old roller fairlead because I didn't want to scratch up the new one before I installed the plasma rope.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_06a.jpg

The line was attached with a set screw holding it in a hole cast in the drum.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_09a.jpg

Here is what it looked like after installing the plasma rope and the new fairlead.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_10a.jpg

I have these plugs on both bumpers, attached to the winch battery. I have a set of jumper cables that plug into this too. If the battery is down on the engine, I can jump it from the plug on the front bumper.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_07a.jpg

After I backed it back into the garage, I took a pic of the winch on the front bumper. I suspect that on the trail I will keep the winch in the back bumper as it appears to be safer.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-21-13_11a.jpg

It is amazing how much lighter the winch is with the plasma rope as opposed to the wire rope.

4.3LXJ
02-22-2013, 07:52 PM
Coming along nicely. Can't wait to see the full bed on it.

XJ Wheeler
02-23-2013, 02:45 AM
As always a great job, keep em coming. :)

workgoats
02-25-2013, 09:27 PM
Here is the update on the camera situation:

The rear camera still tilts and I pulled the camera from the red truck and put it in the grille. It's a little obvious but what the heck.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-25-13_01a.jpg

I also decided to put the monitor in the dash. I don't have a very big dash but this will do.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/02-25-13_02a.jpg

4.3LXJ
02-26-2013, 10:43 AM
It fits well there

workgoats
03-02-2013, 05:04 PM
I'm finally getting to the bed on this thing. Here's a little evidence of progress:

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-02-13_01a.jpg

I started by determining how high and building a corner at the back to start from. I'm using culled Ipe wood boards from our new office. This should be the only Willyreplica in North America with an Ipe wood bed.

I have also started on the back of the cab. I will need to borrow a truck or trailer and go get some more FRP to go on the back of the cab, behind the wood of the bed, before I can actually install any wood.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-02-13_03a.jpg

Here is an idea of what it will look like from the side. I suspect a vertical batt will be installed in front of the roll bar to keep the wood in line.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-02-13_04a.jpg


And, here is my concept of inside the bed. The boards on the floor will be cut and screwed to metal door frames, making two doors that will open to the two compartments below the floor.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-02-13_05a.jpg

cantab27
03-02-2013, 05:30 PM
coolies mate ...nice work

workgoats
03-03-2013, 07:53 PM
So, today I framed in for the rear window.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-03-13_01a.jpg

Then I put the FRP on the back of the cab.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-03-13_02a.jpg

Then I actually started installing the wood bed. I plan to remove it, a board at a time if necessary to paint the rig. The wood will need to be oiled on the back side too. It has been oiled on one side already. This is as far as I got. I ran out of time, energy, and worst of all light. I need to upgrade my lighting somewhat or spend more work in the daylight.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-03-13_03a.jpg

Here is a look from a little farther back. I would have liked to pulled it outside and clean the garage and take some pics but I didn't want to take the time to reinstall a seat.

Those flat fenders make really neat places to stack stuff. And, did you notice that I got some new shoes. I'm working hard on being ready to go somewhere.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-03-13_04a.jpg

Brasscatz
03-03-2013, 11:17 PM
Damn, that thing is sweet!

oderdene
03-04-2013, 07:55 AM
what a progress, go ahead bro.

workgoats
03-08-2013, 10:31 PM
The bed is nearing completion. I still have to put the floor together. It will be a trap door. There are the two compartments below it with the tools, battery and air tank.

The dark wood is Ipe wood and the light colored is something that arrived as packing protection for something delivered to our warehouse. I will be poly-urethaning the light colored wood but the Ipe wood will be oiled. Then I plan on painting the steel and fiberglass around the area before doing a final install on the wood.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-08-13_01a.jpg

4.3LXJ
03-08-2013, 11:20 PM
Looking real nice. I like it

Brasscatz
03-09-2013, 09:53 PM
I'm very impressed! Looks amazing!

4x4Dalton
03-09-2013, 10:09 PM
Looks awesome bro. Nice work.

workgoats
03-12-2013, 10:43 PM
I finally got a chance to drive it out of the garage tonight. I discovered that at least part of my garage still has a concrete floor.

Here is the view of the new bed as I pulled it out.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-12-13_01a.jpg

And here is the front view. Changes since it was last outside include the new tires, 32x11.50x15 ATs that I removed from the RC in the driveway. I put 33s from my previous project on the RC. (previous project is no more) Of course, the bed and the cab are new too.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-12-13_02a.jpg

Here, parked by the RC, it looks a lot bigger than it really is. The tires on the RC are 33s and the ones on the Willyreplica are 32s.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-12-13_03a.jpg

From the rear it is a in a little better perspective. The cab is very small. The seats are close together and there is very little room between the seat and the door. It is high but I did the best I could to keep the weight low. When it had a 904 tranny instead of the 727 that is in it now, there wasn't any hump at all. Now it has about a 3" hump.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-12-13_04a.jpg

I have moved the winch to the rear bumper for this pic. Sooner or later I will build a tailgate, probably a steel frame with a wood center. I might get that done before a function I will be attending at Hidden Falls on Labor Day weekend.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-12-13_05a.jpg

The floor of the bed raises for access to two storage compartments.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-12-13_06a.jpg

The rear compartment is over the gas tank and has room for the steel winch cable (in case I cut the plasma rope), the winch controls, jumper cables, various hitches and a bunch of recovery stuff.

The front compartment holds the winch battery, the on-board air tank, the jack and has room for some spare parts.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-12-13_07a.jpg

The wheel base is the same as the axle donor vehicle, a 4 dr Cherokee. Adding the cab and the bed make it look a lot bigger than it did before. I did put a lot of weight in the bed and feel like it is now a lot better balanced. I hope to tow it to the work location where I can drive it around on the private drive and in the woods.

That will have to wait several days as it is our spring break and we are headed to a state park for a few days.

http://www.workgoats.com/images/03-12-13_08a.jpg

4.3LXJ
03-12-2013, 11:05 PM
Almost ready for a road trip

XJ Wheeler
03-13-2013, 01:24 AM
You gotta be proud of that, and the knowledge that you built it yourself. :thumbsup:

workgoats
03-29-2013, 09:02 PM
I have been working on it, almost every night. I have basically finished the bed and the cab. Still to go is a tailgate and some bed trim. I will install a rear window in the cab and build some sort of sliding windows over the top of the doors. I will have them removable for good weather and events.

Here it is, out on the driveway, driven by Ernest:

vimeo.com/62974503

XJ Wheeler
03-30-2013, 03:58 AM
Looks really good, is the yellow the final color choice?

Brasscatz
03-30-2013, 09:59 AM
Lookin good! You've got some talent buddy!

workgoats
03-30-2013, 08:17 PM
Looks really good, is the yellow the final color choice?

Yellow will probably be the final choice. My wife is happy with it and that makes some difference. Also, the first new car I ever owned was a 68 Dodge Dart GT. It was just about the same yellow. My daughter's first car was a 79 CJ7 and it was yellow too.

I think it's about time we went back to the basic...

Also, part of the cab and the hood are made from fiberglass reinforced plastic. The yellow paint is rated for plastic too. I didn't like any of the other plastic rated colors.

4.3LXJ
03-30-2013, 08:23 PM
You could put some black trim on it and call it a Tonka Toy :D

workgoats
03-31-2013, 05:32 PM
You could put some black trim on it and call it a Tonka Toy :D

Could it be a "Tonka Willy"? or would it be a Jeep "TW"?

4.3LXJ
03-31-2013, 07:21 PM
Lots of options there

workgoats
03-31-2013, 09:41 PM
Here are the pictures taken today. It is now back in the garage. I'll be putting the skid plate back on and finishing up a few things before we hit the trails on April 26th at Hidden Falls.

I used it today to get the rest of the red truck parts loaded and stored away in storage.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0327a.jpg

The axles will go under the RC with the magnum engine and the throttle body off the 360 will go on the 318 in the "Tonka Willy". Eventually the 360 may make its way there too.

The next picture shows a closer view of the second receiver for the winch. This receiver is not directly attached to the frame but it will be strong enough to pull a vehicle up on the trailer (with the trailer attached to the truck).

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0327-1a.jpg

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0328a.jpg

And here is my truck and my daughter's XJ after taking the required Easter pictures by the pond.

http://workgoats.com/images/IMG_0329aa.jpg

XJ Wheeler
04-01-2013, 03:59 PM
Lookin really good, Ron. Be proud, you're own two hands made that. Not a better feeling. :thumbsup:

workgoats
04-16-2013, 08:17 PM
The first step to get a title on my home made Willys Replica is to get it insured so that it can be inspected.

I was declined by Texas Farm Bureau because they classify it as a kit car.

Anyone been through this situation before and found an insurance company that would be brave enough to write it?

There are a couple of companies that I will not use because of bad dealings when I was an adjuster working with or for them, but only a couple.

4.3LXJ
04-16-2013, 08:34 PM
You might check some of the street rod guys. They have to deal with this.