PDA

View Full Version : Anyone have the JCR offroad 1 ton steering??



COSXJFAN
07-29-2009, 02:37 PM
I was looking at their design, and had a couple of questions. I would think that by looking at it, that whenever lateral force was applied to the tie rod from the drag link, that the tie rod would rotate. How do they compensate for that?? I am having the same issue with the one I built, and I copied their design to the "T" in the beginning, but had to change it because of this issue. It still will roll over a little, but not near as much as it used to. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!! TIA!!

Voldemort
07-29-2009, 03:25 PM
Man I wish! I need to figure out what kind of set-up to use myself.

Voldemort
07-29-2009, 10:34 PM
I was looking at there site and it looks like they use a bushing /spacer and it looked to be on the pass. side knuckle. IDK? That may help some with the rotation?

muddeprived
07-31-2009, 07:44 AM
What problems does the rotating tie rod cause?

Mudderoy
07-31-2009, 08:37 AM
:sign0101:

With the larger wider tires I can no longer drive through water, say 2 or 3 inches deep, on the right side of the Jeep and virtually no water on the left side. It pulls very hard to the right, almost too much for me to have time to compensate. Would 1 ton steering resolve this issue? I don't remember having this issue when I was driving around in my 83 truck with the 36" tires.

I guess another question, maybe more important one, is what does the 1 ton steering do for you?

ol"blue
07-31-2009, 08:49 AM
Do you have a link to their website? :confused:

muddeprived
07-31-2009, 08:52 AM
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6

muddeprived
07-31-2009, 08:55 AM
:sign0101:

With the larger wider tires I can no longer drive through water, say 2 or 3 inches deep, on the right side of the Jeep and virtually no water on the left side. It pulls very hard to the right, almost too much for me to have time to compensate. Would 1 ton steering resolve this issue? I don't remember having this issue when I was driving around in my 83 truck with the 36" tires.

I guess another question, maybe more important one, is what does the 1 ton steering do for you?

It's mainly a peace of mind cuz it's alot stronger than stock. It also gets rid of the stock Y steering setup which causes toe changes when suspension is cycled or vehicle is lifted or lowered. Your angles are improved as well.

Are your steering components in good shape?

muddeprived
07-31-2009, 08:59 AM
I was looking at there site and it looks like they use a bushing /spacer and it looked to be on the pass. side knuckle. IDK? That may help some with the rotation?

That is right.


On this system the passenger side TRE dust boot is replaced with a polyurethane spacer, which pulls the body of the TRE against this knuckle. This eliminates the tie rod roll that an inverted T setup sometimes has.

Mudderoy
07-31-2009, 09:09 AM
It's mainly a peace of mind cuz it's alot stronger than stock. It also gets rid of the stock Y steering setup which causes toe changes when suspension is cycled or vehicle is lifted or lowered. Your angles are improved as well.

Are your steering components in good shape?

Hmmm they checked them at around 100k very good shape. I've had the front end aligned twice, once about 2 years ago and then I guess about a year ago, with no complaints from the alignment guys. I know they used to bitch about front end parts if they couldn't align it.

When I had it realigned (paid for it when I had it done 2 years ago) it was very close to the last alignment. I had replaced the wheel bearing assemblies so that was probably enough to change it.

All in all I think the front in is good, although I've been thinking about changing out the stock, original tie rod ends.

muddeprived
07-31-2009, 09:13 AM
Hmmm they checked them at around 100k very good shape. I've had the front end aligned twice, once about 2 years ago and then I guess about a year ago, with no complaints from the alignment guys. I know they used to bitch about front end parts if they couldn't align it.

When I had it realigned (paid for it when I had it done 2 years ago) it was very close to the last alignment. I had replaced the wheel bearing assemblies so that was probably enough to change it.

All in all I think the front in is good, although I've been thinking about changing out the stock, original tie rod ends.

You are at 6" right? Or is it 4.5"? Oh I checked your specs, 4.5". If your tie rod ends are good and alignment is set then I'm not sure what's causing your issue. I am running 11.5" wide ltb's at almost the same height and I just blew through some real deep puddles from the constant 2-days of rain and didn't have any pulls or anything but I did NOT SEE for about 2 seconds from the splash...lol.

COSXJFAN
07-31-2009, 09:42 AM
The bushing was mentioned on CF as well. It sounds as if delron (cutting board material) would be the best bet. I have access to it, and the machines & tooling, so I can make a bushing for it. Now all I need to do is find some dog gone time!!LOL!! I'll keep you guys posted on what happens with this.

Mudderoy
07-31-2009, 09:44 AM
You are at 6" right? Or is it 4.5"? Oh I checked your specs, 4.5". If your tie rod ends are good and alignment is set then I'm not sure what's causing your issue. I am running 11.5" wide ltb's at almost the same height and I just blew through some real deep puddles from the constant 2-days of rain and didn't have any pulls or anything but I did NOT SEE for about 2 seconds from the splash...lol.

Well it only happens if there is deep water on one side and nill on the other. You know like how it builds up on the inside lane of a paved road?

ol"blue
07-31-2009, 10:21 AM
I'm new to all this so humor me. I understand this kit is stronger than the stock set-up and is an obvious improvement in that regard. But I don't understand how adding the kit can negate/delete the pulling effect of deep water on big tires? Wouldn't that force still be transmitted through the bigger linkage? I don't see anything in the kit that would stop it. It will just make it less prone to bending/breakage in my opinion. Please explain what I'm missing.

COSXJFAN
07-31-2009, 10:35 AM
Geometry, the stock set up is an inverted "Y", and as the suspension cycles it changes the toe in toe out setting. The JCR set up, as well as mine, is an inverted "T" set up. It changes the geometry, and will transfer less through the steering wheel, at least mine has the short time that I have been driving it. The obvious benefit is strength, and the other is the fact that is a cross over design, and thus does not change toe during suspension cycles. I have noticed an increase in bump steer, but I can live with it. I may change the location where the track bar ties into the front axle. If I can get them close to the same angle, it will eliminate the bump steer. BTW, my buddy is making the delron bushings for me as I type this. It's good to work in a place that has machines and machinists on hand!!:D

Mudderoy
07-31-2009, 10:44 AM
I'm new to all this so humor me. I understand this kit is stronger than the stock set-up and is an obvious improvement in that regard. But I don't understand how adding the kit can negate/delete the pulling effect of deep water on big tires? Wouldn't that force still be transmitted through the bigger linkage? I don't see anything in the kit that would stop it. It will just make it less prone to bending/breakage in my opinion. Please explain what I'm missing.

Yeah I agree with you. When I read "1 ton steering" I thought it included a heavier duty steering box, which would make sense that would help my situation.

ol"blue
07-31-2009, 12:11 PM
Yeah I agree with you. When I read "1 ton steering" I thought it included a heavier duty steering box, which would make sense that would help my situation.

So the kit won't help/alleviate your problem? What is the solution? Going to the "cross-over steering" or "inverted T" set-up? I'm still confused.:(

Voldemort
07-31-2009, 12:54 PM
Geometry, the stock set up is an inverted "Y", and as the suspension cycles it changes the toe in toe out setting. The JCR set up, as well as mine, is an inverted "T" set up. It changes the geometry, and will transfer less through the steering wheel, at least mine has the short time that I have been driving it. The obvious benefit is strength, and the other is the fact that is a cross over design, and thus does not change toe during suspension cycles. I have noticed an increase in bump steer, but I can live with it. I may change the location where the track bar ties into the front axle. If I can get them close to the same angle, it will eliminate the bump steer. BTW, my buddy is making the delron bushings for me as I type this. It's good to work in a place that has machines and machinists on hand!!:D

Let me know how it works out. I may go with a similar set-up.

96xj
07-31-2009, 01:12 PM
one of my buddy has that set up its strong as :turd:

COSXJFAN
07-31-2009, 01:29 PM
Let me know how it works out. I may go with a similar set-up.

Will do bro!!

muddeprived
07-31-2009, 03:18 PM
Well it only happens if there is deep water on one side and nill on the other. You know like how it builds up on the inside lane of a paved road?

That should be normal if the jeep pulls towards the water side. The tire in the water is experiencing friction and slowing down while the dry tire is not so it'll pull in the direction of the water. HUGE trucks with big heavy tires usually stay planted on the pavement and just plow through the water with little effects.