PDA

View Full Version : Oil Filters



Mudderoy
03-29-2009, 05:42 PM
I've been using the Jiffy Lube and Kwik Oil Change filters for a while now.

I recently picked up a Mopar oil filter for the XJ.

I'm getting ready to go change the oil and wanted to double check with you guys if you thought the mopar oil filter was fine. I didn't know that FRAM filters were not preferred by most people.

DETOURS
03-29-2009, 05:49 PM
Dunno......but that avatar sucks!!

Taint nuttin wrong with Fram, or Pure-oil_ater......I recently went to a full synthetic oil....wow, she's some slippery now......love it!

Mudderoy
03-29-2009, 05:52 PM
lol

I'd like to go to the syntactic but everyone says my 4.0 will start leaking. Next new engine syntactic for sure. :thumbsup:

DETOURS
03-29-2009, 06:31 PM
They arent telling you the truth, ours has 170K on it.......revv's like a champ!

firehawk
03-29-2009, 07:27 PM
I run a NAPA gold, or Wix filter on mine. Nothing but Castrol GTX for my engine! 10w30 in the winter, and 10w40 in the summer.

Mudderoy
03-29-2009, 07:38 PM
They arent telling you the truth, ours has 170K on it.......revv's like a champ!

What kind do you use?

muddeprived
03-29-2009, 08:03 PM
lol

I'd like to go to the synthetic but everyone says my 4.0 will start leaking. Next new engine syntactic for sure. :thumbsup:

It will start leaking and then the transmission will fall out, followed by the front axleshaft snapping in three places resulting in the rear tire coming loose and passing you by.

Switch. If it leaks then you know the oil is doing it's job of being a maid. Leaks = bad seals not synthetic = leaks.

I'm switchin on my next oil change.

As for filters, I ran the mopar filter that wal-fart sells. It leaked right off the bat. I dunno if I put it on too tight or what but that kinda sucked. I now run purolator filters from advance. They were rated high on that filter test somewhere on the www.

xjjeepthing
03-29-2009, 08:13 PM
I run Motorcraft filters and oil.

firehawk
03-29-2009, 08:45 PM
I run synthetic's in my diff's and TC. I have always had good luck with Castrol motor oil. My wife's old Sable that my son is now driving has 187,000 miles on it. Other than the tranny getting tired it runs great. I put 116,000 on a 2.5L S-10 pick up, and 105,000on a 3.9 Dakota all using Castrol. I change oil every 2,000 miles so synthetic oil wouldn't help me much, other than to empty my wallet faster.

OMOC
03-31-2009, 09:22 PM
i was useing castrol but have switched to all lucas oils and actually picked up 3mpg as for filters i use fram or oem. i tried a k&n and it exploded when i was on trail.

Mudderoy
03-31-2009, 09:51 PM
I didn't know Lucas had a synthetic. I'll have to check.

firehawk
04-01-2009, 07:57 PM
I thought everything Lucas made was synthetic.

Mudderoy
04-01-2009, 08:08 PM
I have some additive in the garage, I'll have a look.

Melissa
04-02-2009, 10:27 PM
Shoot, I use what ever oil filter is the cheapest at the parts store and I have never had a problem. I change my own oil every 3,000 miles and have always used valvoline 10-40.

Mudderoy
04-04-2009, 06:54 PM
Ok I got some mobile 1 10-30w and a puralator filter. :thumbsup:

firehawk
04-04-2009, 07:30 PM
Ok I got some mobile 1 10-30w and a puralator filter. :thumbsup:

Well...your good to go!

xjjeepthing
04-04-2009, 07:35 PM
So you know Puralator makes all Motorcraft filters as well.

DETOURS
04-07-2009, 08:30 PM
Mudd asked earlier what man made oil I used..........the Walmart brand, it was less than standard oil and I started asking myself............how many ways are there to make man made oil? How many different companies are actually making it? How many labels is it sold under? Most likely not many.......

It's been fine.:thumbsup:

TeXJ
04-17-2009, 05:27 PM
i use the Oreily's brand oil and the Wixx filter, I had a STP filter fail on me.

BlueXJ
04-17-2009, 07:11 PM
Mobil 1 all the way oil and filter.

TeXJ
04-19-2009, 05:04 PM
ive heard if you didnt move to synthetic quickly after the vehicle was new that, you could get leaks, and lets face it these engines aren't exactly the most sophisticated engines out there. I dont see the need to put synthetic motor oil in. Mine works just fine with my 10w-40. I also have 165k miles on it too.

Mudderoy
04-19-2009, 05:43 PM
No leaks, so far.

muddeprived
04-19-2009, 07:21 PM
ive heard if you didnt move to synthetic quickly after the vehicle was new that, you could get leaks, and lets face it these engines aren't exactly the most sophisticated engines out there. I dont see the need to put synthetic motor oil in. Mine works just fine with my 10w-40. I also have 165k miles on it too.

It don't matter when you switch to synthetic. It's all about the seals and when they decide to leak. They could start leaking at mile 56k but not show any sign of leaking due to being clogged up with sludge and crap. Switching to synthetic would clean that up and expose the leak. So if you switch to synthetic early on, the leak would still show up when the seal decides to wear itself out, only it would be clean and start leaking immediately instead of being clogged and delayed by traditional oil.

TeXJ
04-19-2009, 08:40 PM
only what i've heard. But why throw money away? These are not high performance motors that need synthetic, nor does the manufacturer call for the use of such oil.

Mudderoy
04-19-2009, 10:32 PM
Less friction means less heat which can translate to less wear and longer engine life.

Audio222
04-19-2009, 10:40 PM
Don't laugh, I know several people who swear by these and none of them are under age 40.
Remember oil doesn't wear out it gets dirty and attracts water. If you can remove the water and clean out the dirt you can use oil over and over. Think about it.

http://www.frantzoil.com/TOILETPAPER.html

Melissa
04-19-2009, 10:51 PM
Don't laugh, I know several people who swear by these and none of them are under age 40.
Remember oil doesn't wear out it gets dirty and attracts water. If you can remove the water and clean out the dirt you can use oil over and over. Think about it.

http://www.frantzoil.com/TOILETPAPER.html

I had never heard that before, it was interesting reading, thanks :thumbsup:

Audio222
04-19-2009, 10:54 PM
I had never heard that before, it was interesting reading, thanks :thumbsup:

Most people that use these never change their oil. When you change the filter you have to put in about half a quart.

firehawk
05-13-2009, 03:22 PM
Don't laugh, I know several people who swear by these and none of them are under age 40.
Remember oil doesn't wear out it gets dirty and attracts water. If you can remove the water and clean out the dirt you can use oil over and over. Think about it.

http://www.frantzoil.com/TOILETPAPER.html

From what I've read, yes oil does not wear out. So that is not the problem, the problem is the additives wear out, or are used up. No filter can replace these additives. When these additives are used up, or "worn out" you might as well be using a straight weight non detergent oil. NOT good.:smiley-scared002:

IMO, 6 qts. of quality oil and a good filter that can be bought for about $20-$25 is cheap insurance against engine wear/failure.

BlueXJ
05-13-2009, 03:47 PM
Amsoil used to offer an analysis of their oil and recommendations of adding and replacing the oil. Don't know if they still do that but they did in about 1990 or so. Just for your info if you didn't know Amsoil is a fully synthetic oil too. One of the better ones from everything I read.

Mudderoy
05-13-2009, 03:56 PM
Amsoil used to offer an analysis of their oil and recommendations of adding and replacing the oil. Don't know if they still do that but they did in about 1990 or so. Just for your info if you didn't know Amsoil is a fully synthetic oil too. One of the better ones from everything I read.

I read the same, but couldn't find any locally. I didn't do an exhaustive search just went to 3 places.

BlueXJ
05-13-2009, 04:06 PM
One of the guys on CF and CT is a distributor in Indiana I think. His name is Bill Howey or "whowey" on the forums. He sent me some literature. We have a guy here who is the local used Jeep guy who is a distributer as well but he is a bit of a crook so I steer clear of him. I have read as much about the chemistry of the synthetics as my mind could handle and have decided to keep it in all my vehicles. I think that the Mobile1 is as close as you can get to the perfect lubricant but even it is missing some wear ingrediants for our flat tappeted 4.0L engines and that is ZDDP which I add at each oil change. I buy it from http://www.zddplus.com/ and am faithful about adding a bottle at every oil change which for me is every 6000 miles. My other vehicles don't need the additive but the old Jeep does. HTH

Voldemort
05-13-2009, 04:37 PM
Can you go from reg. oil right into synthetic? I ways told on older engines not to go straight from reg oil to synthetic or it would cause problems. I have always used Valvoline oil and added Lucas additive(Best stuff I have ever used http://www.lucasoil.com) with a K&N filter(I use to use Mobile One filters till the Auto parts place I go started carrying K&N). But I always used Mobile One in the New cars and the Motors I built I just did not think I could just up and switch to a Synthetic with out hurting something.

Mudderoy
05-13-2009, 08:51 PM
Last oil change I went from Penzoil to Mobile 1 syntethic. Spanky "D" assured me it would be ok, and he'd buy me a new engine, drive down from KY and install it for me if it messed anything up.

I was hopeful I would get a new engine, but all is fine.

Voldemort
05-13-2009, 09:32 PM
Last oil change I went from Penzoil to Mobile 1 syntethic. Spanky "D" assured me it would be ok, and he'd buy me a new engine, drive down from KY and install it for me if it messed anything up.

I was hopeful I would get a new engine, but all is fine.

REALLY! I mean It has been drilled in my head not to do it. Should I do a oil flush before or some thing special? Man I do not want to spin a bearing because it is so much MORE lubricated! It scares me:(:smiley-scared002:

cher96
05-13-2009, 11:41 PM
My brother drag races a '64 Chevy Pickup and uses Royal Purple Synthetics.

He convinced me into using Royal Purple Products in my XJ. There is a really good reason I do and am so very happy I did!

I changed over to Royal Purple Synthetics 4 years ago at about 143,000 miles. I have PepBoys do my changes since they sell those products. I am at about 190,000 now and my engine still roars like a lion.

My daughter borrowed my XJ to visit a freind up the freeway a bit. When returning home the lower heater hose blew. She did not have her cell phone with her. She was afraid to stop so she just kept on going until she reached home. She came in and told me that the Temp Gauge was in the red. I asked what happened. She told me. I asked how far did she drive with it in the red. She said about 9 miles. I told her she was lucky she got home. I will stand by their products. I was so very amazed my engine did not seize up or blow!

I changed out the hose, put in coolant, changed the oil and the Tranny fluid and it was good to go.

In my engine I use these 2 Viscosities: XPR 10W40 from October till May and XPR 20W50 from June till September because it is so very hot here in Florida.

XPR — Extreme Performance Racing oils are formulated for demanding applications such as racing, modified engines and off-road use. XPR’s high film strength make it exceptionally well-suited for today’s high performance cars and trucks.

XPR produces winning results on the race track and is safe enough to use in your daily commuter car.

Professional engine builders and race teams cite increased horsepower and torque, and longer engine life with the use of Royal Purple.

XPR 10W40 is designed for marine, oval track and endurance car racing. Capable of withstanding long intervals of extreme heat, it works especially well with alcohol and methanol. It is extremely popular in sprint cars, late models and World of Outlaws racing.

XPR 20W50 is formulated for running extended periods under extreme pressure and heat. It is used in oval track, marine and drag racing and is very popular in sprint cars, late models, truck pullers and bracket racing.

I use Extended Life Royal Purple Oil Filters:

Royal Purple oil filters provide superior particle removal, high-performance and optimized flow characteristics for maximum performance and longer filter life.

Each Filter features:

* 100% synthetic micro-glass media for superior particle removal with 99% filtration efficiency at 25 microns. See the difference!
Filtration system used by less efficient oil filters State-of-the-art technology filtration media used by Royal Purple's oil filters

Both photos are taken at a magnification of 250x. The photo on the left uses conventional cellulose filtration fibers. The spaces allow larger particles to pass through to your engine. The photo on the right, of Royal Purple's filter media, uses the latest technology filtration system which filters out particles as small as 25mc.

close description box
* A high-performance silicone anti-drain back valve that prevents dry starts, even in extreme conditions.
* An extra heavy duty rubber base gasket that ensures a leak-free seal.
* Ultra-strength filter housing endures higher burst strength than conventional filters.


In my Radiator I use this with Antifreeze:

Purple Ice is a high performance, synthetic, radiator coolant additive. It reduces engine heat by reducing the surface tension of the radiator fluids for improved heat transfer.

Purple Ice fosters optimum coolant flow by helping to prevent formation of scale deposits in the radiator. It also lubricates the water pump seals.

Purple Ice should always be used in conjunction with antifreeze in regions where freezing temperatures occur. Purple Ice is compatible with traditional ethylene glycol antifreeze (green) and GM Dex-Cool® antifreeze.

In my AW4 and my NP231 I use:

Max ATF is a synthetic, high-performance, automatic transmission fluid. Its low co-efficient of friction and high film strength help to dramatically reduce heat and wear. Additionally, Max ATF is more oxidation stable than other transmission fluids for longer fluid life.

Max ATF is recommended for a wide variety of transmissions.

Max ATF significantly reduces heat to extend the life of your transmission. Automatic transmissions generate a great deal of heat and depend upon the transmission fluid for cooling and protection. More than 90 percent of all automatic transmission failures are caused by overheating; a 20°F reduction in fluid temperature can double the life of the transmission (Source: Perma Industries, Inc.).

Max ATF is fully compatible and can be mixed with other automatic transmission fluids; however, for the best results drain or flush the current oil and then fill with Max ATF.

In my Diffs I use:

Max-Gear is an ultra-tough automotive gear oil. It’s designed to maximize power and provide unsurpassed protection to heavily loaded gears. It makes gears run smoother, quieter, cooler and longer without overhauls.

Max-Gear outperforms other gear oils because it combines the highest quality synthetic oils with Royal Purple’s proprietary Synslide additive technology.

Max-Gear is recommended for use in truck, motor home / RV, and automotive front or rear differentials, manual transmissions, and lower gear units of marine engines that specify use of an API GL-5 or GL-4 fluid. All viscosities of Max-Gear are formulated with hypoid friction modifiers necessary for use in clutch or cone type differentials. No additional additives are necessary.

http://www.royalpurple.com/index.html

Technical Support call toll-free 888-382-6300.

I will always use their products because I believe they saved my daughter and my engine.

bwebb
05-13-2009, 11:53 PM
Sent my kid to UTI auto school few years back..
since he came home he runs synthetic in everything he can.

cher96
05-14-2009, 12:00 AM
BTW: When I had changed over to Royal Purple, I noticed I could hear the rockers. It must have cleaned all the gunk off of them.

At about 190,000 miles, my engine neither burns nor uses any oil. I am extremely happy with it!

whowey
05-14-2009, 07:11 AM
One of the guys on CF and CT is a distributor in Indiana I think. His name is Bill Howey or "whowey" on the forums. He sent me some literature.

Blue.. thank you for the introduction. I live in Illinois, but both states are flat and have alot of cornfields so they are easy to confuse. :D

Let me answer some of the questions about synthetics I have seen posted here.

How many different companies produce synthetic lubricants?

There are two different processes used to refine crude oil into the base stocks used to make most synthetic oils. Chevron and Exxon-Mobil were the devolpers of the processes. Now most of what we commonly think of as synthetic oils are really super refined conventional oils blended with additive packages to provide the higher level of protection they afford.

Additionally, there are the Group 5 oils which were not made from crude oil at all. But these are the extremely high end blends that the producers reserve for their commercial racing programs. So yes, NASCAR, IHRA Top Fuelers and the like use Q-State, Penzoil,Castrol and Valvoline. Just not a blend you can get unless you are in the companies racing programs.

But there is nothing that stops any company from blending and packaging their own synthetic oils. Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple are all examples of companies that buy the base stocks and blend their own synthetic oils.

Do I need to do anything special to run synthetics?
Normally no. If your engine has any type of leaks to begin with, even one that just seeps, synthetics will clean that out and make the leak appear worse. But in reality, it was the crud left behind from old oils that was keeping the leak from being worse. If you previously ran oils that had parrafinic bases(Penzoil,Q-State, Traveler's) You may want to flush your engine before adding synthetics, or run a shorter oil change interval as the remanants of these oils will be cleaned off your engine internals and will be present in the oil.

Oil bases never break down, the additive packages fail
As long as the engine ALWAYS operates exactly as designed, this is true. But once the additive package fails, or something changes inside the engine base oils can quickly become damaged and reach the point of failure. Fuel contamination or exhaust gas infiltration are two of the more common problems that will quickly break down additive packages and damage the base stocks in short order. If you are going to use any of the methods out there recommending not changing your oil, I highly suggest using an oil analysis lab. This can give you an idea of the condition of your oil and engine.

Is oil analysis worth the money?
It depends on your situtation. If you are changing your oil too often(less than 3k) and not using the vehicle in extreme duty(delivering mail, flogging it off road) than its probably not going to be worth it to do analysis. You should be able to tell enough from the condition of the oil when changing it.
But if you are running extended drain lengths(over 7.5k) or using the engine in a hard manner, then having a used oil analysis done can really help you get a picture as to whether your oil is standing up to the task.

Our 4.0l are old school and dont need any kind of fancy oils
Yes.. the 4.0l is based on 50+ year old technology. But that is where the problem lies. Government interference has now led to a oil specification that doesn't contain enough of the two primary anti-wear additives to protect our flat-tappet camshafts. The newer roller style cam shafts don't need the extra prtoection so the new oil specification is fine for them. These two anti-wear additives are Zinc and Phosphorous. A 4.0l shouldn't use an oil with less than 1000 PPM(parts per million) of either of these.

If anyone has any questions about synthetics, don't hesitate to ask. Blue can attest to that I may not post alot, but when I get rolling I have a tendancy to carry on.

Voldemort
05-14-2009, 01:16 PM
Our 4.0l are old school and dont need any kind of fancy oils
Yes.. the 4.0l is based on 50+ year old technology. But that is where the problem lies. Government interference has now led to a oil specification that doesn't contain enough of the two primary anti-wear additives to protect our flat-tappet camshafts. The newer roller style cam shafts don't need the extra prtoection so the new oil specification is fine for them. These two anti-wear additives are Zinc and Phosphorous. A 4.0l shouldn't use an oil with less than 1000 PPM(parts per million) of either of these.


I read something on this before and what I want to know is did they take it out of all oils or just regular oils? Can I go straight from reg oil to a synthetic with out worry's? Or will I still have to use the Zinc and Phosphorous additives they make now if I switch to synthetic? Man I thought I had this figured out till now.:headbag:

Mudderoy
05-14-2009, 01:21 PM
BTW: When I had changed over to Royal Purple, I noticed I could hear the rockers. It must have cleaned all the gunk off of them.

At about 190,000 miles, my engine neither burns nor uses any oil. I am extremely happy with it!

After I switched to synthetic (about 3 weeks ago) mine 4.0 sounded like a damn diesel until it warmed up. I don't hear it, or notice it now. I think this was happening when it was cold out.

Looks like I may need to add some stuff to the oil for the flat tappers though.

Voldemort
05-14-2009, 01:59 PM
Here is a link for that ZZDP stuff http://www.hotrodhotline.com/pr/2009/09zzdpapril/

Someone that knows about all this needs to do a write up on what is the best oils and additives for all that has to be changed in a XJ. I will always use Lucas just because it is a 100% petroleum based and can be put in any oil in any thing and just helps the oil keep the property's it has when you put it in. But I want to know do I really need to use a synthetic oil and then add this ZZDP. How effect will MY Lucas additive be with a synthetic oil? Man I'm just all mixed up now.

whowey
05-14-2009, 06:56 PM
I'm not a fan of oil additives of any kind. Choose a good quality that meets your needs and you are a long way ahead already. Trying to doctor up weaker oils only ends you up with a less than optimum blend. With the amount of engineering that has been invested into the oils now,there simply aren't enough positives to justify the added expense.

Look for oils that are still API-SL rated or API-CH or CJ rated.. These oils will still contain the needed levels of Zinc and Phosphorous.


Choose an oil that has the required levels of Zinc and Phosphorous and you dont need any other additives.

Mobil 1 Hi-Milage still contains enough to meet the floor levels of 1000 PPM. Many of the speciality blenders have blends that meet these requirements.

This is the oil that I recommend to my customers with 4.0l motors. It contains over 1300 PPM of Zinc and Phosphorous.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx